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weasel 21
01-02-2008, 12:13 PM
I have a saeco top punch (45 cal) that is made for a round nose and Im sizing flat nose long colts. Any way to keep the top punch from deforming the bullet nose other than buying another shape specific top punch. Thanks

NVcurmudgeon
01-02-2008, 12:48 PM
Don't know what a Saeco top punch looks like, but if they are anything like Lyman or RCBS top punches there is an easy fix. Start with a hex head bolt that is the same diameter as the hole that the top punch goes into and cut to length. Then grind the head of the bolt down until it will enter the sizing die. No grinder? Use a drill motor in a vise and file the head down.

Calamity Jake
01-02-2008, 12:57 PM
Custom fit that RN top punch to your FN boolet with a little epoxy puddy.
Use some kind of release agent on the boolet nose(just about anything greasy will work)
Set boolet on the sizing die loaded in the lube/sizer making sure it is setting flat and square, mix epoxy puddy per directions and put in the cavity of the TP, install punch in ram and with light pressure bring down to set on boolet nose forming the epoxy the shape of the boolet nose. Let the epoxy set up, trim any excess epoxy and your ready to go.

weasel 21
01-03-2008, 12:05 PM
Let me clarify- the bullet Im casting is a 45LC 452 255gr Lee RF. Im using straight WW , when sized the very edge of the bullet contacts the top punch ( no reference number / came with old black saeco and a 452 sizing die so Im assuming its a 45 top punch) When I size the pressure of moving the bullet into the die puts a crease into the top of the bullet around the whole circumference. I was thinking of chucking the top punch into a drill press and opening up the channel with some wet/dry sandpaper. Also is the epoxy modification permanent? Thanks

freedom475
01-03-2008, 01:14 PM
I was thinking of chucking the top punch into a drill press and opening up the channel with some wet/dry sandpaper. Also is the epoxy modification permanent? Thanks


Using Epoxy or bedding compound is the best way to modify your TP. It will give you an exact mirror of the boolit your casting from your mould.....better than factory....No its not permanent but heard from guys that have done thousands of boolits without it wearing-out. If you ever have another use for the TP just scrape/burn it out.:Fire:

Calamity Jake
01-03-2008, 01:55 PM
If you will use release agent on both the TP and boolet then the epoxy is easy to remove and reuse, while the epoxy is setting up scratch a line in it and on the TP, then when set up remove it from the TP, clean off release agent and then use a small amount of boolet lube to hold it in the TP lining up the two lines. Now you have factory and modified TP all in one.

paul edward
01-04-2008, 08:25 PM
Let me clarify- the bullet Im casting is a 45LC 452 255gr Lee RF. Im using straight WW , when sized the very edge of the bullet contacts the top punch ( no reference number / came with old black saeco and a 452 sizing die so Im assuming its a 45 top punch) When I size the pressure of moving the bullet into the die puts a crease into the top of the bullet around the whole circumference. I was thinking of chucking the top punch into a drill press and opening up the channel with some wet/dry sandpaper. Also is the epoxy modification permanent? Thanks

I just made a top punch for that boolit. Used an old round nose TP and epoxy. It does not take much epoxy to fill the voids between your TP and the boolit.

With a drill, drill press or lathe you can open up the cavity of the TP with scrapers or files. If you have access to a lathe, it is not difficult to make a top punch from scratch. Even when I do that, I still use epoxy for a perfect fit.

PD

weasel 21
01-05-2008, 11:24 AM
What kind of epoxy are you using?

paul edward
01-06-2008, 03:27 PM
What kind of epoxy are you using?

I use whatever is in the glue cabinet at the moment. For the Lee 452 255 RF I used a generic unfilled adhesive epoxy from the hardware store.

In the past I used a thermally conductive epoxy designed to attach heat sinks to semiconductors. I had some left over samples in the glue cabinet that day.

It only takes a tiny amount, so it is easiest to use an epoxy that is mixed in equal parts. The thermal epoxy was 80/20 and needed to be weighed.

Be sure to use a decent mold release. Johnson's paste wax works for me, as did some release left over stock bedding kit. If you have more questions, feel free to send me an email off-line.

Paul