Brand new caster - What to expect in the first run?

[kellyj00]

I've just gotten into casting and it's taken a long time to get all the equipment and knowledge together so far. Thanks again to all the folks here.

I'm planning on firing up my brand new Lee 20# furnace tomorrow and making some 200 grain 45acp bullets out of two lee 6-cavity molds I got used from a member of this forum.

Is there any secret to making good bullets the first time? Is there anything I can mess up...any pointers that would make my first bullets come out nice?

Thanks again.

[dubber123]

Scrub the moulds well. To get them really clean, I squirt them well with dish soap, and sprinkle on some powder type scrubber, the stuff that comes in a can. Scrub with a tooth brush, and rinse with hot water. Any oil or contaminates inside your moulds will make crappy boolits, and can take seemingly forever to burn off. Get them clean first. Get your mould hot beforehand, by warming it till good and hot in top of your pot, using a hot-plate, propane torch, whatever, it will save alot of aggravation. Also having a too cold Lee 6- cavity and trying to cut over hardened sprues has broken plenty of those moulds. They really need to be kept pretty hot. To get your best fillout until you get more comfortable, I'd suggest setting your pot on "MAX".

[Bula]

+1 on getting the molds clean. I've also had better luck with the Lee 6 cav's by smoking the molds prior with a cheap-o butane lighter. Lube VERY lightly on the alignment pins and sprue hinge and sprue stop. The molds do like to run hot. I'd recommend not trying to use more than 1 6 cav at a time (at least initially) until you get the feel for them. It took me a while to get going too, but I started with a few 2 cav Lyman blocks. If the molds are new, I'll take the fat end of a bamboo chopstick and run it over every edge of the mold to knock down any burrs or aluminum shavings. God luck and keep reading and posting here with questions. The members here are ALWAYS willing to lend a hand. Good luck and good casting.

[leftiye]

Depends. Read all you can stand here on this site, more knowledge helps (ya think?). PM anyone who will answer with questions (ya, I'll answer). Harbor Fart sells a dandy little IR thermometer that allows you to know how hot yer mold is.

Tha secret is- nice uncorrupted alloy, clean and well fluxed (reads also reduced free of oxides). Mold clean, and well seasoned (iron and steel molds develop oxides on their surfaces that improve casting with use). Mold hot enough (in the 300 degree area will cast with most alloys. Alloy temp is then not too critical). Should probly work.

[kellyj00]

Thanks fellas. I'm glad I asked, because these molds are black on the inside. I knew they were used when I got them and wasn't sure if that was something that I needed to scrub off.

When you say lube your mold... what should I be using in a pinch to do this? I completely forgot to order some bullshop lube.

One last thing... about breaking the sprue plate screw when sprues are too cold.... how hard should I let the bullets get before I cut off the sprues? Is it as simple as "pour, cut the sprues, put in water in a hurry. do it again" or is it supposed to be "pour, watch for lead to harden slightly, then cut the sprues, then wait another minute, put in water, start over"

[Scrounger]

One second is sufficient for most bullets but bigger ones, 300 grains and up, will require at least a two count.

[454PB]

Depending on the alloy you use, you should wait until the sprue turns to a galvanized appearance before opening the mould. The first few casting cycles will teach you what to look for. If you see any sign of lead smearing, you're opening the mould too soon.

The black you describe means the previous owner smoked the cavities, or used too much lube and contaminated the blocks. Do the thorough cleaning and resmoke them if desired. I used to smoke my aluminum moulds, but I quit doing it long ago. If they won't cast well without smoking them, there is something else wrong.

[38 Super Auto]

[QUOTE=kellyj00;264636]

When you say lube your mold... what should I be using in a pinch to do this? I completely forgot to order some bullshop lube.
QUOTE]

I use the brown Lee bullet lube for lubing the alignment pins, and sprue plate bolts. I relube every 100 casting cycles YMMV. Keep an eye on the top surface of the mold also. Debris and lead can build up and you'll get some wear due to the sprue plate dragging the crud across the mold. I use a fine brass brush to keep it clean

It's important with the Lee 6-cav molds to insure you have the sprue plate handle pulled completely in before you pour. The sprue plate has a lever to ease cutting of the spue.

The easiest way to warm up your mold prior to casting is to set it across your lead pot while the alloy is warming. A hot plate is a nice addition - can preheat alloy prior to replenishing pot. :coffee:

[Shiloh]

Is there any secret to making good bullets the first time? Is there anything I can mess up...any pointers that would make my first bullets come out nice?


As already stated, Clean the mold good to remove any residual machining lube, oil, or grease. Be sure your pot is up to temperature, fluxed well, and that the mold is warmed up. It will warm up after several trial casts or better yet, pre-heat it. When you start getting good boolits try and keep a rhythm going.

Trial and error will tell if your method is working. the other recommendation is to
Read all you can about casting. This forum is a great place to start. There are volumes of info here where you will find answers to all your questions. If you don't find answers, post a new question.

Shiloh :castmine:

[MT Gianni]

Do not use Lee liquid alox to lube a mold. Lee warns against this. The lee 50% alox 50% beeswax works for a while but will gum up. A little candle wax works ok but will need frequent applications.

[Steve in TN]

Have eye protection, gloves and a long sleeve shirt on just in case you get a visit fron the tinsel fairy. Other than that, You're at the right place for info. With experience, you'll develop a rhythm. If your mold is too cool, your boolits will have wrinkles, too hot, they'll be frosty looking. I work with 2 or more molds at a time so I can regulate their temp. Also, anticipate a FLASH fire in your pot when you flux, still freaks me out today. Have fun and welcome to the addiction

[mooman76]

You're kind of starting the hard way by starting with a 6x. I'm not trying to discourage you or saying you can do it but it can be discouraging to a new caster if it doesn't work out. WD40 will work in a pinch, thats what I use for lube. If the mould is black inside it may be blackened to help the bullets drop which is recomended. I'd start with a 2x if you can but if you can't give it a shot , just don't get discouraged. Remember if the bullets come out messed up you've only lost time. They can be remelted the next time!

[44man]

How little faith all of you have! :mrgreen: He bought the mold from someone here, it is black inside. Would anyone here sell a contaminated mold????:confused: I would say it is in perfect casting condition.
Go for it! :drinks:

[Blackhawk Convertable]

Make sure you pre-heat the mold first. Whether over a hot-plate (my method) or over the casting pot. Give it plenty of time to warm. You don't want to break the sprue handle (don't ask lol )

A used mold from another member? I wouldn't do a thing with it the first time other than cast. It's probably good to go. If you end up having trouble, then go from there

[leftiye]

You CAN clean it, but only with something that removes petroleum products (brake cleaner maybe, lacquer thinner, etc.). But DO NOT remove the "blueing" on the surface of the cavities. It's your friend! I don't carbon molds anymore. It doesn't stay on, and a hotter mold solves more problems than carbon will. Plus one on using a single cavity, or double cavity right at first, but it will only cost a little extra time and a little electricity if you learn with the six cavity.

[LeadThrower]

Lots of good advice here already.... a couple minor additions based upon my own experience:
1) Close the sprue plate fully but don't hold it closed as you hold the mould handles. It will hold the mould halves open a little and you can get finned boolits.

2) [more experienced casters correct me on this if I'm wrong, please] Tear-out in the base of the boolit means the sprue isn't quite cool enough... wait a few more seconds.

3) I use copper (high temp) anti-seize compound on the alignment pins and sprue screws. Now that I have it, I'll never use anything but BullPlate lube on the top surface of the mould. Order some asap.

4) Check the great responses to my tinsel fairy post: be sure to heat ingots to dryness before adding to the melt!

Lastly, I'd recommend removing one element of complexity from your casting... the water quench. Focus on the casting and do an oven heat-treat to harden if necessary. Introduce the water once you're comfortable w/ everything else.

[black44hawk]

The first time I casted I made excellent bullets. Just do it!