So, there I was...

[Digital Dan]

setting up to cast some 311041s with the melt getting up to temp, mould balanced on the pot rim as I've done for years. It's a 2 cavity mould.

So amidst all the commotion and with the melt a bit short of proper temp, I managed to bump the handles and it slid into the pot. It was odd the way it worked. Apparently the mould was cold enough and the melt insufficiently hot so as to cause almost all of the melt to lock up on the mould which had only settled up to the pivot pin of the handles before it stopped. I guess I had about 15 # of melt coagulated on the mould. And there it sat. Ooops.

I don't recommend this as a good technique for bringing a mould up to temp, but it did with fair rapidity.

I knew I should have stayed in bed today...

D

[mikeym1a]

You are not alone..............

[hickfu]

LOL, that is why I picked up a 15 dollar hot plate.... dropped a mold in once... ONCE!


Doc

[Digital Dan]

Doc, where's the challenge with a hot plate?

[35 shooter]

And all this time i've been thinking things like that only happened to me....been there-done that- and got the t-shirt.lol

[rintinglen]

Would that I could say that you are unique in your folly, but welcome to the club.

Rather than wrestle with the darned thing, I followed a bit of advice I got from one of George Nonte's articles from years back and just left the darned thing in the melt until it was as hot as the lead and then slowly pulled it out, allowing the molten lead to drip off. A quick wipe with a piece of old cotton jean material wiped off all the tiny bits that still clung to the mold and I was back in business relatively quickly.

[Whitespider]

I did that once also... and I also waited for it to get hot enough for the lead to drip off.
At the same time I was handing some other "hot" stuff and had my welding gloves on. When I pulled the mould I gave it a little "shake" to remove any clinging lead. It slid from my gloved hand, bounced off the concrete, and went skidding/tumbling across the shop floor... hinge flopping open and closed as it traveled.

It was a Lee aluminum, 401-145-SWC. Believe me, hot aluminum and concrete do not mix well. Amazingly (this is no BS), after a little file work, it actually works better than it did before the abuse. Darn thing would never release the boolit before, but they fall as soon as the mould opens now. It's a bit ugly lookin' on the outside... but...
*

[41 mag fan]

I did that once also... and I also waited for it to get hot enough for the lead to drip off.
At the same time I was handing some other "hot" stuff and had my welding gloves on. When I pulled the mould I gave it a little "shake" to remove any clinging lead. It slid from my gloved hand, bounced off the concrete, and went skidding/tumbling across the shop floor... hinge flopping open and closed as it traveled.

It was a Lee aluminum, 401-145-SWC. Believe me, hot aluminum and concrete do not mix well. Amazingly (this is no BS), after a little file work, it actually works better than it did before the abuse. Darn thing would never release the boolit before, but they fall as soon as the mould opens now. It's a bit ugly lookin' on the outside... but...
*

You might of discovered the secret to QCing Lee molds!

[beagle]

Been there and done that. Now, I have a piece of hardware mesh that goes over the top and I sit the mould on it and it somewhat protects me from the "tinsel fairy" as well./beagle

[RKJ]

Been there and done that. Now, I have a piece of hardware mesh that goes over the top and I sit the mould on it and it somewhat protects me from the "tinsel fairy" as well./beagle

This is why I like this group, that is one of those simple ideas that work. Thanks beagle.

[TXGunNut]

All I can say is a bad day casting beats a good day at work!

[JSnover]

I made a lid out of sheet metal for my pot, hoping for less heat loss and a more consistent temperature. It worked! The pot doesn't use as much juice and I ended up with a perfect spot to park my mold.

[bruce381]

I made a lid out of sheet metal for my pot, hoping for less heat loss and a more consistent temperature. It worked! The pot doesn't use as much juice and I ended up with a perfect spot to park my mold.

I like that and a mold heater too, That i can make thanks

[fastfire]

I'm going to do the hardware mesh thing because I was wondering when I'd dunk the mold.
I use a hot plate to warm the ingots about 350 but it's not hot enough to heat a mold to proper temp.
Cause if I turn it up any more it will melt the ingots, guess I need to put a PID on the hot plate.



Been there and done that. Now, I have a piece of hardware mesh that goes over the top and I sit the mould on it and it somewhat protects me from the "tinsel fairy" as well./beagle

[geargnasher]

I made a lid out of sheet metal for my pot, hoping for less heat loss and a more consistent temperature. It worked! The pot doesn't use as much juice and I ended up with a perfect spot to park my mold.

Good idea.

Gear

[runfiverun]

sheet metal works okay.
I made a top for mine out of 3/8" steel for the lee 20 pounder.
it helps add mass to the pot and this slows down temp fluctuations.
it's also a nice place to pre-heat ingots and molds.
I left a little window in the front to return sprues and add ingots through.
it also helps when you get that little bubble up it contains the mess to one little area.

[jeepyj]

I'm going to do the hardware mesh thing because I was wondering when I'd dunk the mold.
I use a hot plate to warm the ingots about 350 but it's not hot enough to heat a mold to proper temp.
Cause if I turn it up any more it will melt the ingots, guess I need to put a PID on the hot plate.

Curious. If 350 isn't hot enough how hot do you go?
Jeepyj

[telebasher]

The main thing to remember is not to incur the wrath of the tinsel fairy, other than that you are left to your own brain storms!

[blikseme300]

sheet metal works okay.
I made a top for mine out of 3/8" steel for the lee 20 pounder.
it helps add mass to the pot and this slows down temp fluctuations.
it's also a nice place to pre-heat ingots and molds.
I left a little window in the front to return sprues and add ingots through.
it also helps when you get that little bubble up it contains the mess to one little area.

R5R, why did I not think of this? This is why I hang out here, to learn stuff that makes things easier and better.

[Digital Dan]

Would that I could say that you are unique in your folly, but welcome to the club.

Rather than wrestle with the darned thing, I followed a bit of advice I got from one of George Nonte's articles from years back and just left the darned thing in the melt until it was as hot as the lead and then slowly pulled it out, allowing the molten lead to drip off. A quick wipe with a piece of old cotton jean material wiped off all the tiny bits that still clung to the mold and I was back in business relatively quickly.

Didn't know there was another option. Cussing does not accelerate the process

Like the ideas of plates and screen. Will have to do some of that.

[Landshark9025]

Noob, so please go easy...

This seems like adding a "lid" to the pot. If so, how does that affect fluxing? Do you have to do it less often because there is less air getting to the melt? If so, do you just remove the lid to do so? Curious.

Thx


sheet metal works okay.
I made a top for mine out of 3/8" steel for the lee 20 pounder.
it helps add mass to the pot and this slows down temp fluctuations.
it's also a nice place to pre-heat ingots and molds.
I left a little window in the front to return sprues and add ingots through.
it also helps when you get that little bubble up it contains the mess to one little area.