PDA

View Full Version : Some Questions for the Experts from a "NEWBIE CASTER"



Laredo
03-23-2014, 12:07 PM
Sorry for the long winded intial post.
I am somewhat new to casting my own "boolits". Outside of roundballs for muzzle loaders, I have been playing with casting for about a year. Like many, I started with a Lee C309-150-F mold for a 30-30 AND a 308 Win. I have since bought Lee molds for other rifle calibers as well as "tumble lube" molds for the usual pistol calibers in the common jacketed bullet weights i.e. .452-230gr., 9mm-124gr., .358-158gr., etc.
I don't know if the Lee Alox Tumble lube is a good thing or not but I hope to hear more about it.
Now just so you know, I am interested in achieving velocities similiar to conventional jacketed bullets in both my rifles as well as my pistols. I have a friend who is a boolit caster and he told me about paper patching for higher velocities. (He also told me he didn't have much luck with it). I have been reloading conventional bullets for some time, but I can plainly see that I have alot to learn about casting and will be among some excellant company here on the Cast Boolits Forum.
For a little history, my first castings with the Lee C309 mold I was able to acquire some clip on wheel weights. I melted those down on my Coleman gas stove and fluxed with candle wax as I recall. I then sized, lubed/gas checked those and loaded and fired at low velocities. Accuracy was quite good in my Marlin 336 with open sights.
After some experimenting I starting playing with the paper thing. On my very first attempt, I started by using masking tape 1/2" wide wrapped one full circumference around the .309 bullet as I could get but no more. I then gas checked, lubed and sized those.
I used a recipe of crayons/lithium grease and bees wax for the lube that my bud gave me.
I then loaded those into .308 cases on top of 39 gr. of IMR 4895. Accuracy was phenominal I thought for a beginner. At 100 yards the first 2 shots were touching and second 2 shots being 1/2" CtoC. The total 4 shot group size was 2".
Later, I worked up to 43 grains of IMR 4320. The overall 4 shot group was roughly 1-1/2" total. My velocity was avg. 2630 fps. with the 4320.
Due to my job, I was unable to continue experimenting for several months. Well when I resumed my casting and experimenting, I somehow got my w-w batches mixed up and melted another un-proven batch with my "proven-good" batch. I am now getting wrinkled poorly casted bullets that don't shoot worth a hoot in rifle or pistol (45ACP/Unique and 9mm/unique). I have tried all different temps., fluxing, etc. with no success. I filed on the new bullets and can see what looks like porosity inside the bullet which would account for the in-accuracy. Obviously there is something bad in the mix.

My questions for the experts is this;
1. Can I add some Linotype or something else to clean up this alloy batch or should I just chunk it? Recommendations?

2. Does the Lee Liquid Alox have any adverse affects on boolit alloy when a previously lubed boolit/s are thrown into the melt? Will the melted down Lee lube affect my molds?

3.Are the tape-on wheel weights of the same alloy/BHN as clip on weights? (I am suspecting not from some of the comments made here on the forum)
I am aware of the Zinc weights but I doubt any are melted in this batch.

4.Does powdered graphite have any ill-affect on boolit casts or molds during casting? (I am using it to lube my sprue plates and line-up pins. Am also using pencil lead to do the same)

5. What are most thoughts on Lee molds and techniques in general? (I see mixed thoughts on this like everthing else, and I haven't yet figured out who to listen to yet)
Thanks in advance.

Love Life
03-23-2014, 12:26 PM
Flux with sawdust and try again.

Lee moulds are great for a $20 mould.

LLA will not hurt your castings as long as you flux well...with sawdust.

Walter Laich
03-23-2014, 01:46 PM
I would hold off throwing the batch out but also not add anything else to it. No use throw good lead after bad.
I've had some questionable batches do fine in the casting process.
If you have what looks like silver cottage cheese floating on the top you have zinc. Flux with sawdust and skim that off. Some people predict the end of the world if they get zinc in their mix but I just flux, skim and drive on.
You didn't spray the inside of your mold with anything like WD-40 or silicon? Might be worth it to clean it out again just in case.
I like Lee molds for their capacity and cost but they do have to be 'prepared' to get the best out of them. Check the stickies for Lee-menting these molds
.
Keep us informed on how things go

Laredo
03-23-2014, 02:56 PM
Walter, I re-cleaned the molds and then re-prepped the insides with Kroil vs. match smoke/carbon before, then wiped that out.
(saw the Kroil post here on this forum)
Still getting some weird dimples and wrinkles on the boolits. Some get the wrinkles on the fore end and a bunch get all kinds of something or another in the grooves. Shrug? Tried tooth paste and nylon brush too.
How good is boiling?
Totally forgot to mention that the problem is occurring with different molds. All Lee molds. The 45acp molds casted just fine before but not now. Also trying with a new set of .285-130 gr. mold. No go.
I am sure I am doing something wrong or over looking something.

Love Life
03-23-2014, 03:06 PM
Sounds like oil in the mould or a cold mould.

Do a super clean and add some more heat to the mix or cast faster. If my sprue doesn't break then I'm not casting fast enough!!

I also like a little frost on bullets.

Laredo
03-25-2014, 07:12 AM
Another question,
When I open the sprue plate it sometimes tears out a small chunk of the base.
What causes the sprue plate to do this?
Am I not letting the casting cool enough or do I need to cool just the plate?
It is never consistent in size.
I am having trouble with that especially on .452 castings but also on .285.

Blammer
03-25-2014, 08:56 AM
I would flux well with stuff, sawdust or candle wax are good.
Nothing tossed into the lead will hurt the alloy, it will burn or float to the top to be skimmed off.

Clean your mould and don't apply any prep stuff to it, until you try casting with it.

If getting wrinkles apply more heat to the mould, not the alloy, dip corner of mould in alloy a few seconds to help get hot.

if sprue plate is tearing, you are cutting too soon.

I would get a shallow bowl fill with water about an inch and put a sponge in it. Touch the sprue to the top of the wet sponge to cool quickly with out cooling the mould. Sprue's should cut then, and not tear.

In my experience Lee mould get hot really fast! Tearing of the sprue is common.

Cmm_3940
03-25-2014, 09:56 AM
Like Blammer said, dip the mold in the lead to preheat. I'll add that when the lead stops sticking, the mold is nearly hot enough, but not quite. With my Lee 6 cav .45 cal molds, I find that dipping plus two or three fill/dump cycles gets the mold to the right temp. When the mold isn't hot enough, I get the fill problems you described even when the mold is completely clean.