How cheap can I be??

[wbrco]

OK - I've been lurking, reading and absorbing. I've also searched the stickies and really haven't found what I'm looking for.

How cheap can you effectively start casting?

From what I've read, it sounds like you need a BUNCH of things to do a decent job casting.

Items required are:

Smelting pot
heat source for smelting pot
Wooden handle spoon(s)
Casting pot
Thermometer
PID
Mold(s)
Mold handle(s)
bullet lubricant(s)
Sizer Frame
Sizer dies and top punches
sizer heater
ladles(s)
ingot molds
large supply of various "flavors" of lead and lead alloy
lead fluxes of various types
hardness tester

Can't I expect a modicum of success with some very basic tools like:

a single 2 cavity mold
a pot
a ladle

Assuming that:
1 - I just want to cast something simple like .38/.357 158 gr SWC's (I've mic'd my bore - .358 is fine)
2 - I have a source for wheel weights (don't ask how long it took me to figure out what COWW and SOWW meant).

I've read the sticky on casting for handgun article. I've also read the Lee stuff on the Tumble lube bullets (positive and negative)

Can it really be boiled down to a simple (read cheap for us folks with no money - thing are really tight!)
3 or 4 basic items for initial success? I could convince wifey on a $20 mold, save up $50 for a pot from
pocket change, and ask for a ladle for fathers day. But if I go spend $100 for a used sizer I'll be in the doghouse for sure.

Of course, all the old hands here could be making it sound difficult on purpose to make sure the limited supply lead isn't taken up by noobs like me! (Conspiracy theory alert!! :razz: )

Allen

[dubber123]

If you get a mold that doesn't cast TOO much oversize, you don't need to size. You can get a used cast iron or stainless pot to melt in, a Coleman stove or small gas stove to cast with. You could use a big spoon or small steel or iron cooking ladle to cast with, but I think LEE sells a basic ladle for a few bucks. Use liquid Alox, pan lube, or just rub lube into the grooves with your fingers, load and shoot. You can cast for very little money if really necessary.

[hendere]

Yes. I've never used a ladle. But others have for pretty much forever. I happily used a single Lee 2 cavity and alox for years before I decided that I needed more stuff.

[C. Latch]

At a minimum, you need a pot with a heat source, for starters. You also need a ladle.

I started about a year ago with a Lyman casting kit an employee bought me for Christmas. It had the pot, ladle, a manual you really need to read, and some lubes, which you could do without.

You'll need good gloves, a skimmer for smelting (I bought a SS wire-handled kitchen strainer), a wire for picking random things out of your smelt (I bent a clotheshanger and it's still working) and good clothes and protective equipment. You probably have most of those already.

Beyond that, if you have one Lee 2-cavity mold, a Lee push-through sizer, and some sort of lube (Alox will work, so will most anything you can make stick to a bullet you're going to shoot at .38 pressures).


That's what you need to start, but be warned, you're starting down a long, winding, expensive road.

[scattershot]

All you really need is lead, a way to melt it, and a mold. You can pan lube boolits as cast, or just by hand. The rest of the stuff just makes it easier.

[country gent]

Basics are simple and most can be picked up at garage sales second habd shops.
1 Cast iron or steel pot an old dutch oven does very good
2 a hot plate or burner of some sort. A propane weed burner, coleman stove, electric hot plate. need 700*-800*
2A a stand heavy enough to support everything compatable with the heat source burner
2B a stand can be made with cinder block and a heavy grate hard wood fire with a shop vac as a blower
3 Tumble lube bullets will get you started and Lees mold are reasonable. See whats out there
3A watch gun shops swap meets for used molds Swapping and selling here
4 Lees sizer dies are again reasonable but the tumble lubes may shoot fine
5 Saftey Glasses, heavy boots, gloves and any other saftey equipment
6 A ladles lyman RCBS work great Rowels are better
Alot depends on where,how you want to cast out side on a gravel driveway or pad offers the most options, in a garage offers several ( I wouldnt use wood coal fire in the garage). In the basement alot fewer. While I seldom use Lee molds they work and will produce good useable bullets. One plus to a used mold is most can tell you what it drops with what alloy. Quite a few use turkey friers for the stand and heat source works very well. A decent thermometer is also a plus you need 1000* upper end. An old cast iron pan, dutch oven, steel pot pan will work fine. Avoid aluminum. used barbeque utensils have long handles and wood can be attached later. Read up see whats being used and watch think it thru. I recently bought a 10 lyman dipper pot new for 35.00. A very basic set up could be set up fairly reasonable. Another help is a good friend that also shoots and split it up cast together. One casts and the other sizes when enough are cool.
For what you want to cast coww are fine maybe a little tin (2-3% added) to increase flow. A day or 2 cleaning lead up ( smelting) should yield enough lead for several casting sessions.

[jonas302]

Most of us don't have every single item on your first list get a mold and get casting if your cheap you know to go the thrift store or garage sale for and old pot and something warm to put it on and something to scoop up lead with and pour it out

[.22-10-45]

Hello, wbrco. I taught myself how to cast round ball for a .36 Navy Arms 1851 navy revolver when I was 15 on an old cast iron wood burning range, a 10# cast iron pot, a big spoon and a Lyman .375 dbl. cavity mould. Gradually worked up to .44 ball..started using Lyman dipper... to Lyman 375248 for .38-55, various makes of .22, .38 Spec., .41 mag., .45 rifle, .58 minnie..only when I started shooting IHMSA in late 1970's did I finally start using a 10# SAECO electric furnace. I am using Lyman 20# ..and have long since gone back to dipper.

[dilly]

It can be very simple. It is not likely to stay that way. The choice is yours.

[Texantothecore]

You could probably do with a mold and a ladle if you wish to go really cheap. It would be slower than with a pot but would be quite reasonable.

[375RUGER]

A 1.5 qt stainless pot that will hold 20# of lead and a good hot plate, both can be found at the thrift store sometimes. Plenty has been written here on which hot plates work without modification.
Get a good ladle, Lyman is good for the price, or you can make your own.
Throw in a Lee mould and you can easily start casting for small money.
Flux (sawdust) is free.
The above list pretty well describes what I started with.

[1989toddm]

I'll agree all you need is a mold, lead and a way to melt and pour it. I've never used a
ladle but I've always wanted to! Hit up thrift stores and have fun!

[Lead Fred]

How cheap can you effectively start casting?

Items required are:

Smelting pot <----- cut off bottom of a o2 bottle, with a bolt for a handle
heat source for smelting pot <----- coleman camp stove
Wooden handle spoon(s) <------ Dont own or use any, have one metal tablespoon, stole from wife (dont tell her)
Casting pot <----- same as above, use the same one for both
Thermometer <------ Lyman from Midway
PID <----- dont own one
Mold(s) <-------- Ranch Dog and Lyman, got rid of all the Lee
Mold handle(s) <-------- One for all my Ranch Dog 6 cav molds, the ly,an I found on with no handles, made my own
bullet lubricant(s) <-------- 1lb bee's wax. 1lb lard, 8oz STP
Sizer Frame <------- Huh? dont own
Sizer dies and top punches <------ Lee pass thru for each caliber
sizer heater <------ Huh? dont own one
ladles(s) <--------- swap meet $5 bucks
ingot molds <--------- Lyman $5 bucks gun show
large supply of various "flavors" of lead and lead alloy
lead fluxes of various types <------------------- Wheel Weights, one size fits all except flintlock which uses pure
hardness tester <----------- huh?, dont own one

[NavyVet1959]

Well, you don't *need* the smelting pot if you start out with an alloy that someone else has already smelted into a castable alloy.
You don't *need* a PID and although a thermometer is useful it is not absolutely necessary.
And I'm sure most of the rest of the stuff that you listed would be on the "nice to have" list instead of the "must have" list.

You need at the bare minimum the following:

Pot (avoid aluminum, stick with steel or cast iron)
Heat source (gas, electric, fuel oil, wood, etc)
Ladle (stainless steel condiment ladle can work)
Lead ingots
Bullet mold (the Lee 2-cavity molds come with the handles)
Bullet lube (Lee Alox Tumble Lube works even on non-Tumble-Lube design bullets)


The other stuff just allows you to produce a more uniform quality product or produce it faster.

[dikman]

I reckon Navy has summed it up pretty well. That's basically what I started with, you don't really need anything more. Unfortunately, it's a slippery slope once you get started.......so many nice toys to buy/build.

['74 sharps]

Only equipment I own is as follows:

Lee 20# pot
Molds
Ladle

Dip or tumble lube and shoot as cast. Don't smelt as I've found all my lead in pieces small enough to go directly in the Lee pot.

[dudel]

Do away with all the smelting equipment (pot, burners, ingot molds, spoons, etc), and buy your metal from RotoMetals ready to go. May sound more expensive; but you're then dealing with a known alloy that is clean. You get to focus on casting; not scrounging WW (which generally aren't free), sorting, cleaning, smelting, etc.

I can't take credit for this approach. It was brought up by Mike Venturino in the April Handloader issue.

[greenwart]

A Cast iron pot is is infinity better than a stainless pot. The cast iron will hold the temperature more evenly.Troll the thrift shops in your area and you should be able to pick one up for less than a lyman pot. Make sure it has a cast handle if possible. I have a screwed in wooden handle one that has slipped with a full load of lead. It wasn't disastrous but there was some cleanup involved. You can use a gas camp stove, but I have found that an electric hotplate. ($9.00 at my local HEB )works quite well. You can adjust the temperature a little easier than the camp stove, but I have found how to adjust the temperature by adding rejects to the pot if it gets to hot.I have been looking for a heavy duty one but at that price I will just buy another when it dies. Pay good money for a good ladle RCBS or Lyman. Dipping and pouring are the major activity and trying to aim a molten stream when your arms get tired is tough. the Lyman ladle makes positive contact with the sprue plate and it is more feel than sight. Forget the ingot molds use muffin tins.

Buy Lee mould to start with and treat them gently. I have picked up moulds on Ebay, but usually you can get a new one for a few dollars more than what they go for there. If you are only going to cast one caliber and bullet (said the drug dealer) and want to cast in quantity, the lee 6 gang molds are very good.

Wear you safety glasses at all times. I wear glasses all the time and have finished a casting session and found specks of lead on the front of my glasses and I don't remember splashing enough for them to get there.

Bob

[shredder]

Nah, a mould and an electric bottom pour pot from lee will get you started. All you need is welding gloves and a spoon. If your mould is plain base, that is it. That would be the easy way to start.

[Wayne Smith]

DO NOT buy the Lee "ladle", actually more of a tablespoon. Yes, I started with a Coleman two burner propane stove given to me by my dad well used, a kitchen SS pot, and a ladle. I still use much the same, no bottom pour, no electric use other than lights, and a Lyman (or RCBS) ladle. you forgot good gloves, NH or Harbor Freight is where I get welding gloves, a pair will last several years. Yes, I picked up two lube sizers after experimenting with pan lubing. I have two because I shoot BP, pistol, and rifle. One has BP/pistol lube, the other has smokeless lube for the rifles.

You also forgot perhaps the most important thing - a place to do it. Your wife will not appreciate you casting on the kitchen range, that will not last long at all!

Look at this as something that can be started simply and added to over years. This spreads out the financial pain. I have chosen to do it this way for two reasons, I cast big boolits and so ladle cast, and I would rather invest in molds.

[randy_68]

I started on the cheap. My uncle asked me if I ever cast before and I said "No I haven't". Why?" He said he had a bunch of molds and if I didn't take them he was going to throw them in the dumpster. Well I couldn't let that happen so I took home 10 molds for round balls and 2 for .38 .357. Started asking around for lead and before you know it I had 2 full buckets of free ww. I used a Coleman stove I already had and a small skillet I picked up for $5. Also used a spoon for a ladle. I made quite a few .357 and .38 boolits like that before I decided it was time to upgrade. So yea you can start out "on the cheap" to see if you really want to do this, but if you do like it you will be upgrading. I did buy most of my stuff used but have also bought some new items too. Brass, powder and primers probably cost me more since I load and shoot a lot more now than I did before I started casting.

[Mk42gunner]

OK - I've been lurking, reading and absorbing. I've also searched the stickies and really haven't found what I'm looking for.

How cheap can you effectively start casting?

From what I've read, it sounds like you need a BUNCH of things to do a decent job casting.

Items required are:

Smelting pot
heat source for smelting pot
Wooden handle spoon(s)
Casting pot
Thermometer
PID
Mold(s)
Mold handle(s)
bullet lubricant(s)
Sizer Frame
Sizer dies and top punches
sizer heater
ladles(s)
ingot molds
large supply of various "flavors" of lead and lead alloy
lead fluxes of various types
hardness tester

Can't I expect a modicum of success with some very basic tools like:

a single 2 cavity mold
a pot
a ladle

Assuming that:
1 - I just want to cast something simple like .38/.357 158 gr SWC's (I've mic'd my bore - .358 is fine)
2 - I have a source for wheel weights (don't ask how long it took me to figure out what COWW and SOWW meant).

I've read the sticky on casting for handgun article. I've also read the Lee stuff on the Tumble lube bullets (positive and negative)

Can it really be boiled down to a simple (read cheap for us folks with no money - thing are really tight!)
3 or 4 basic items for initial success? I could convince wifey on a $20 mold, save up $50 for a pot from
pocket change, and ask for a ladle for fathers day. But if I go spend $100 for a used sizer I'll be in the doghouse for sure.

Of course, all the old hands here could be making it sound difficult on purpose to make sure the limited supply lead isn't taken up by noobs like me! (Conspiracy theory alert!! :razz: )

Allen

All you really need is a ladle, mold and a fire. Remember the Mel Gibson movie when he was melting his dead sons lead soldiers to cast round balls?

Eye Protection -- You only get two, and they need to last your entire life.
Go to a thrift store or yard sale and pick up a stainless steel one or two quart sauce pan and a couple of tablespoons.
Heat source-- hot plate or coleman type stove.
Lee two cavity mold, comes with handles. ~$20.00
Gloves are nice, but I don't like casting with welder's gloves, I loose too much dexterity. All you really need is some insulation from heat so I use leather work gloves, winter chore gloves may be better.

It doesn't take much bullet lube for lower end .38 loads, I have read many times of people mixing Vaseline with paraffin or beeswax to get started. Lee liquid alox or a stick of 50-50 won't cost much for a trial.

The cheap way to size, if needed is a Lee sizer that screws in to any press with 7/8-14 threads, again ~$20.00, I haven't bought one for several years.

You don't need a large supply of lead or anything else until you try it to see if you like it, then all bets are off.

Good Luck,

Robert

[Hardcast416taylor]

A simple matter of deductive reasoning on your part. Watch someone at a casting session and figure out yourself by simply watching what you do need and what is a luxury to get later.Robert

[bangerjim]

To cust costs:

Do NOT use a PID......wait until you get familiar with the science of casting!!!!!

Do NOT use a lubra-matic and grease lubes. Grease-appliers are money pits. Use dry tumble powder coating. NO LEADING. Very inexpensive to get into. Excellent barrel protection. Use Harbor Freight powder, an old coolwhip (only!) and a toaster oven (convection is preferable). Once you get the hang of PC'ing you can look at the electrostatic gun from HF.

Rather than wasting money on a CI casting pot an clunky coleman stove, save up and get a Lee 4-20 bottom pour. Far better and much faster than using a casting ladle. I use my RCBS ladle rarely anymore!

You can get by on the uber-cheeeeeep by using artist's pencils for hardness. "ADVANCED SEARCH" on here for how-to's. Buy a Cabine later on....best there is!

Do NOT use the LEE ladle except for stirring a skimming your casting pot.

Use LEE molds........inexpensive.....don't waste big $$ on brass or steel molds for now. I have over 15 Lee molds and they all work GREAT! I doubt if I will ever waste MY money on brass or steel.

Do not waste money on commercial fluxes. Use clean pine saw dust or pet bedding. Beeswax in your casting pot and paraffin in your smelting pot

Good luck!

bangerjim

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Yeah, Navy has it. At the ripe old age of 14 I started casting for my .30-30, about 50 years ago. Bullet mold, Coleman stove, Lyman Lead pot, Lyman dipper, I pan lubed,with a cake tin, beeswax/paraffin, and a cut-off fired cartridge case. Today I would probably tumble lube, but pan lubing still works very well. Little adult supervision and NO advice. I read everything I could find. NO INTERNET, so genuine paper books provided the information. Lack of fancy equipment should not stop you.

[popper]

You forgot safety glasses, leather gloves($10).
I started with a bottom pour Lee pot, Lee mould (2 hole comes with handles), LLA, Lee push thru sizer & die sets. Read a lot but knew nothing. Added stuff that made it easier & better but only things I dumped are the Lee moulds & LLA. Cost of a good ladle is about the same as the Lee pot. Did my smelting in a used SS sauce pan & mapp torch that I had, use vice grips to pour ingots into the muffin tin. Like Banger, I highly recommend the PC. It works and you don't have to wash your hands after handling coated boolit. Relatives are a good source of gifting for this hobby, Academy cards pay for my shotgun shells. Lee pot is about the same as a good dinner for 2.
Have fun.

From your list:
Smelting pot;heat source for smelting pot -used SS sauce pan & mapp torch, coleman stove, etc.
Wooden handle spoon(s) -no - use large cheap WW SS spoons ($1 each).
Casting pot -your smelting pot or a bottom pour
Thermometer -yes
PID -when you win the lottery
Mold(s) -yes
Mold handle(s) -yes
bullet lubricant(s) - Lee LLA, PC (you will like), pan lube with gooey stuff you make.
Sizer Frame
Sizer dies and top punches
sizer heater - just use Lee push thru
ladles(s) -if used, get a good one
ingot molds - steel muffin tins
large supply of various "flavors" of lead and lead alloy -you probably need some pure lead to cut the WW, your SOWW may suffice. Keep them separate.
lead fluxes of various types -sawdust
hardness tester -no

[Springfield]

On the cheap means buy some lead ingots from the guys here and you save on buying all that smelting equipment. Then buy a LEE pot and a mould, and I will send you, free, some alox for tumble lubing. For plinking 38 specials that will work fine. But be forewarned, I started by buying my buddies LEE pot, flux, ladle and a few moulds for 20.00 because he didn't like casting. Now I have more than a few moulds, Star sizers, a Magma pot. I lined up MOST of the bullets I cast in a line to help me remember what I have. If casting your own means you save money I musta save 10,000 by now!:) Funny how my checking account doesn't reflect that, though.
100123

[greenwart]

You don't save money, but you do get to shoot a lot more.

Bob

[Jupiter7]

My first two sessions consisted of:

Turkey fryer(previously owned)
Cast iron skillet($5-goodwill)
50lbs Wheel weights($20)
Lee mold($20)
Gravy ladle($1goodwill)
Skimmer-Pot style soup spoon with holes drilled($1goodwill)
Bottle of LLA-$5
Cheap HF dial calipers(previously owned)

I had good bullets on second pour. Tumbled as cast and shot next day. Now addicted and cast every caliber I own. I'm exactly 1 year in with two bottom pour pots, 2 Lyman lube/sizers, powder coating equipment and molds and dies for calibers I don't even own guns in...yet.

[Cherokee]

Well, you've received plenty of ideas. My start was basic as well and with used stuff. Go for it, no time like now to get started.

[2wheelDuke]

Your wish list for starters sounds a bit luxurious to me. Like others have said, casting really can be done on a shoestring. I started off casting with borrowed gear before I started acquiring my own.

My dad still uses his first ladle sometimes. He hammered out an old spoon to make the "dish" deeper, and heated and bent a spout onto it. A piece of dowel was drilled and the spoon was epoxied into it make a handle.

[gwpercle]

You don't NEED an expensive bottom pour furnace. I bought one and guess what...I cast better boolits with the Lyman casting ladle and a simple 5 lb. electric pot. Even the electric pot isn't necessary as I cast a lot of boolits on my mom's stove, then my wife's stove in a small cast iron pot. The electric pot got me in the garage. And before I knew the word "smelting" I stuck the wheel-weights right into the pot , melted them, fluxed, skimmed and cast the boolits.
The Lee 2-cavity moulds , lube and size the Lee way, will get you going for just a few dollars.
I do advise you to get a ladle with a spout on the side, like a Lyman casting ladle. Open ladles just don't produce a totally filled out boolit.
Gary

[Love Life]

You can get into casting for very cheap. A small pot, a ladle, a Lee mould, 60 lbs of alloy from Missouri bullets, and some lee dies with LLA. That is really all it takes. Later on you can get into the hocus pocus of thermometers, PIDS, high end moulds, lubesizers, etc. I don't have much tied up in casting equipment at all and I have cast for many calibers from hot rods to slow pokes.

Sometimes I feel people turn themselves away from the hobby due to perceived needs when in reality they are wants.

Keep it simple and add as you go.

[David2011]

Didn't read all of the replies yet; just posted my opinion:

Smelting pot - yes
heat source for smelting pot - yes
Wooden handle spoon(s) slotted/perforated- yes
Casting pot - no. you don't need an electric furnace. You could cast with a dipper and your smelting pot. You will like it when you get an electric furnace.
Thermometer - nice to have but went many years without one. The presence of zinc WW makes it more necessary than in the past.
PID - Highly optional
Mold(s) - Yes, ingot and boolit
Mold handle(s) - yes
bullet lubricant(s) - yes
Sizer Frame (Lubrisizer?) Lee makes loading press mounted sizing dies intended to work with pan lubed boolits- inexpensive
Sizer dies and top punches - depends on what kind of sizer. The above mentioned solution is based on KISS.
sizer heater Only if you use lubes that are hard at room temp
ladles(s) yes- for ingots and if you ladle cast- 2 different types. For ingots you can use a Dollar Store type soup ladle.
ingot molds - yes, but as you read here you will see the multitude of molds from WalMart stainless steel condiment cups to welded angle iron molds to cornbread molds to factory made ingot molds
large supply of various "flavors" of lead and lead alloy YES!!!
lead fluxes of various types - Yes- One type is sufficient- sawdust
hardness tester - No - read up on pencil hardness testing

David

[jonp]

Stainless steel pot walmart: $8
Lee ladle: $3
Turkey fryer: $0 already had
lee mold: $19
Wheel Weights: free
alox: couple of bucks

[wbrco]

So, after reading all the excellent replies I'll start by checking the thrift stores for a hot plate and either a stainless steel or cast iron pot.

To answer/address some of the general posts..

I already have a coleman stove: a white gas model. It goes camping, so I'm not that enthused about using it for casting.

I have an area outside the garage on the side of the house. No problem on space.

I have a welder, so I have gloves, and an HF apron, and safety goggles. No problems there, but thank you for the reminder on safety. I probably wouldn't have thought of those. I also have a respirator that I use when doing auto body paint work (hobby only).

I've read previously about Pan lubing, the idea I like better than tumble lubing. I'll have to find a lube recipe on the board here. I'll try both and see what I like better. I didn't tell anyone that I wanted to shoot my .38 bullets in pistols and my
Marlin 1894. I'm really not trying to shoot any faster than 1400fps out of the rifle, just "plinking" rounds.

I'll hit up my friend who owns an independent tire dealership and see if I can't get a 1/2 full 5 gallon bucket of weights.

So, other than the thrift shop items, it sounds like all I really need is a mould (and handles maybe) and a decent
ladle, and perhaps a little tin to adjust the wheel weights (clip ons - the stick ons are harder??).

So, where do I find some pure tin for cheap? I really don't want to buy a big bar from RotoMetals just yet.

Thanks for all the advice from the folks on the board!

[wbrco]

Oh, and also, I don't have a single stage press: Just a Lee Classic Cast turret. So the in-expensive Lee sizers would require a press frame of some sort...

:)

[kawasakifreak77]

Getting into casting I have invested:

Lyman 358429 w handles, $75
44# of WW, free.
Bottom pour pot, 5lbs lube & tin, traded unused dies & jwords.
Gloves, appron & safety glasses, extra from work.

I should be able to start casting soon!

[Love Life]

^^^Boom!!! Just like that you are off to the races!!

[blikseme300]

How cheap can you effectively start casting?

Items required are:

Smelting pot <----- cut off bottom of a o2 bottle, with a bolt for a handle
heat source for smelting pot <----- coleman camp stove
Wooden handle spoon(s) <------ Dont own or use any, have one metal tablespoon, stole from wife (dont tell her)
Casting pot <----- same as above, use the same one for both
Thermometer <------ Lyman from Midway
PID <----- dont own one
Mold(s) <-------- Ranch Dog and Lyman, got rid of all the Lee
Mold handle(s) <-------- One for all my Ranch Dog 6 cav molds, the ly,an I found on with no handles, made my own
bullet lubricant(s) <-------- 1lb bee's wax. 1lb lard, 8oz STP
Sizer Frame <------- Huh? dont own
Sizer dies and top punches <------ Lee pass thru for each caliber
sizer heater <------ Huh? dont own one
ladles(s) <--------- swap meet $5 bucks
ingot molds <--------- Lyman $5 bucks gun show
large supply of various "flavors" of lead and lead alloy
lead fluxes of various types <------------------- Wheel Weights, one size fits all except flintlock which uses pure
hardness tester <----------- huh?, dont own one

RD molds were cut by Lee. I use a number of them and have zero issues with them. The meat in my freezer is there because of Lee molds with some help from me on the trigger.

[lylejb]

So, where do I find some pure tin for cheap? I really don't want to buy a big bar from RotoMetals just yet.

back to the thrift shop!!

Genuine pewter is 90%+ tin, sometimes as high as 98% tin. Close enough to pure for our uses.

Lots of threads on here about how to recognize real pewter vs. fakes

Just remember were not looking for collectables, were going to melt it anyway. Bent, dings, dents, that's ok as long as it's cheep.....it all melts the same.

so far, I'm at less than $5 / lb for pewter vs. almost $20 / lb for pure tin. The trick is only buy it if your sure it's genuine pewter, and only if it's cheep!

[TXGunNut]

Doing it on the cheap is quite possible but my initial casting outfit cost more than the rifle I was trying to cast for....and it was cost-effective because my first casts were better than what I was able to buy. I've bought another pot, well over a dozen moulds and a smelting outfit and I figure I'm still ahead of the game....just waiting for those "savings" to show up in my checking account, lol.
We reload to shoot more, we cast to shoot even more and a benefit is that we cast better boolits than we can buy. Yes, it helps to be a tightwad when getting into casting but nobody's saving any money here; we're just casting good boolits and having fun.

[sigep1764]

I just recently started casting. Bought a Lee 356-120 TC mold, handles, turkey burner, propane tank, cast iron skillet, muffin tin, Lee ten pound bottom pour pot. In it for a couple hundred bucks. Instantly saved that on my first two casting sessions. Also invested in a lyman4500 lubrisizer. $125 from cabelas. Pretty cheap if you ask me.

[sigep1764]

You just end up shooting more which equals a better shot. I went from shooting once a month to shooting once a week for less money when I started reloading. Now its even less cast I g by at least $200 a month.

[22 rifle]

i started with one of those small cast iron lead pots that sold for about 10 bucks a ladle and bullet mould.used step fathers propane lead melter,guy was a retired plumber.pan lubed and sized my bullets with a cheap lee kit that had a metal pan a tube cutter to get the bullets out of the hardened lube and a die and punch that you used with a hammer to size the bullets.had a grin on my face a mile wide when i shot my 1st ones thru my 44 mag.all of the stuff that i've got since then just makes it faster and easier.honestly can't say that the bullets that i make now are any better than the ones i made 35 years ago with my cheapo setup.

[rhead]

Just remember that for a lot of people they only needed one cigarette a day at the first.

As to calculating the savings do not neglect that any time spent casting, reloading, or shooting is therapy and should be charged out at $75 per hour.

[dondiego]

$75 seems low to me. I figure that my hobby time is worth more than any lawyer's time is. I am thinking $400 per hour.

[myg30]

Well, you don't *need* the smelting pot if you start out with an alloy that someone else has already smelted into a castable alloy.
You don't *need* a PID and although a thermometer is useful it is not absolutely necessary.
And I'm sure most of the rest of the stuff that you listed would be on the "nice to have" list instead of the "must have" list.

You need at the bare minimum the following:

Pot (avoid aluminum, stick with steel or cast iron)
Heat source (gas, electric, fuel oil, wood, etc)
Ladle (stainless steel condiment ladle can work)
Lead ingots
Bullet mold (the Lee 2-cavity molds come with the handles)
Bullet lube (Lee Alox Tumble Lube works even on non-Tumble-Lube design bullets)


The other stuff just allows you to produce a more uniform quality product or produce it faster.

YUP, I agree too. That's where I started. Almost no investment at all. First cast was on my stove ( I was single then :-} ) same set up. Cast some good bullets for a friend cause I did not have a gun for that mold I was given, along with a ladle, small cast iron pot and some lead scrap's.
I enjoyed it so much and electric 1 element hot plate from walgreens ($10.99 then) and went outside. A bigger cast iron pot with lid from Goodwill came next as well as searching and collecting lead. Saw dust from the shipping dept at work.(free) Finding used molds on here was the ticket for less costs in mold collecting, along with ordering lee molds from titan.
Lee bottom pour 20# pot made it so much more fun and was worth the cost ( staying cheep). Ladle casting was not for me but its a fall back and fun to teach new casters with it.

Al this started because another guy at work told me it was really cheep to cast for .38 spl !! Pot, spoon, lead, lee TL mold n wood fire. His biggest expense was the beer !!!

Its very addictive ! Good casts and be safe, Mike

[NavyVet1959]

Al this started because another guy at work told me it was really cheep to cast for .38 spl !! Pot, spoon, lead, lee TL mold n wood fire. His biggest expense was the beer !!!

Hmmm.... Come to think of it, even after all these years and a lot of extra equipment, my biggest expense is STILL the beer. I'm just able to produce more bullets per 6-pack though. :)

[Walter Laich]

As I got into casting I found new and shiny things that really did improve my enjoyment of this hobby/obsession
Since I do it for fun and decided to get the stuff that improved the 'fun' factor.
to each his own, though

[warf73]

Oh, and also, I don't have a single stage press: Just a Lee Classic Cast turret. So the in-expensive Lee sizers would require a press frame of some sort...

:)

No you don't I size for my 480 ruger on the Lee Classic Cast Turret with a push threw die made by Lathesmith(board member).

It takes very little to get into casting I could do it with $150 and that would include 40lbs of alloy.

Alloy is $1 per lbs 40lbs = $40
Lee 20lb pot = $68
Lee 2 cavity mold= $20
Lee sizer kit = $21
Total $149

Thats $150 for brand new items, if you go used it will be cheaper(check out the swapping and selling forum area).

Warf

[bruce381]

for tin you can also buy high dollar lead free solder (tin) in a roll from the hardware store. I see rolls of solder at garage sales all the time too.
Look up stickys on wheel weights and that they are now mostly zinc. which you want to seprate from your good lead.

also your lee press is fine for a push through sizer thay are all 7/8 thread size