Mold Lubes- why one would be better than another?

[Radarsonwheels]

I have read about people using different lubes for their sprue plate, pivots, and alignment pins. I see bullshop lube, graphite spray, two stroke oil, AC oil, ester oil, a lot of options.

People talk about how great this or that works for them but I don't see any description of how or why on the stickies. I am a new caster. I currently run a couple iron molds and a lee six cavity aluminum. I've been using antisieze for lube, applied sparingly with a q-tip to a hot mold with bullets in it. I'm using antisieze because I already had some on the shelf. It seems to be working fine.

Here's the rub- I have only cast a couple thousand bullets in my short career with the silver stream. I even cast my first few hundred without any lube (and no problems) I then read here to lube the molds (must have read my Lyman book too fast oops!) I didn't notice any excessive wear or galling, but I don't really know what to look for. When sizing rifle cases I can always feel when it's getting dry but my experience with molds is way more limited. I don't really feel a difference or see a need for a better or different lube.

What do you experienced guys look for in a lube? Staying power so it doesn't burn off fast? Stay puttedness so it doesn't migrate into the cavities and blur the base sharpness of the boolits? A smooth sprueplate swing and cut?

Why is your favorite lube better than another or what's good about it?

Thanks!

radar in Philly

['74 sharps]

Permatex Anti-Seize as it works extremely well, is readily available, does not drip, lasts thru a long casting session, and you can tell where it is applied by the color.

[osteodoc08]

I say find something you like and works well and use it. We all have our preferences. I use Bull Shop's Sprue Plate Lube as it's what I have on hand. It works well, so I keep using it.

[Tatume]

I like a lube with graphite. The graphite lingers long after the carrier is burned off, and won't contaminate the mold cavities with oil.

[Echo]

I use Bullplate, and the loob Miha and Swede send with their moulds. They work, and I see no reason to try anything else. I have enough to last the rest of my life...

[leftiye]

What chance is there that anything will be as good as all else? BTW, no lube works just fine.

[btroj]

Two words

Personal preference

[Radarsonwheels]

Two words

Personal preference

Right! Of course it's personal preference!

The question I'm asking is why do YOU prefer the lube that you use?

I've said that my opinion is useless because I have little experience. The only other helpful comment was that the graphite in antisieze stays after the oil burns off. This was 1/2 the reason i use antisieze. The other 1/2 reason is that it's what I already had on the shelf- which seems to be the most popular reason given.

Does anybody have a practical reason why their favorite lube is their favorite besides availability?

[btroj]

I like the ester oil because it lasts longer than 2stroke oil. It also has a lesser flow on the surface oft he mould so it is less likely to migrate into a cavity. Much of this is because it contains no solvents.
I have a large bottle from lube testing so it was on hand and I tried it. Ester oils a re also a common stock for synthetic 2 strokes.

Sometimes it is a case of using what you have. If it works then run with it.

[captaint]

Radars - I think it's really ALL of the features you mentioned. Stayputedness, failure to migrate, keep the lead smears off the top of the mold and the bottom of the sprue plate and not burning off. I personally keep my sprue plate loose enough so that it swings on its own, anyway. But I do still lube the bolt. I've been using Bullplate for some years. It will migrate, so we have to be careful in that respect. It also lasts pretty well. I usually only have to re do once during a casting session. And bear in mind, we have to rub nearly ALL of it off to prevent migration. I do like it though. Hope this helps. Mike

[Cherokee]

For 30+ years I never used any lube on my Lyman molds but I bought an NEI mold that came with a lube and I used it. My Lyman molds show wear from usage, the NEI does not. When I started with the Lee 6 cv molds, I had already learned from this forum about proper lube and Bullplate is what I use on everything now. The times I have been careless not lubing Lee molds, I got gauling that had to be cleaned up. Always lube....use whatever works; see reasons given above. Personal preference, pick one and use it.

[Radarsonwheels]

Thanks- Im always thankful for an opportunity to learn!

[geargnasher]

Bullplate works pretty well, as do most of the polyalphaolefin oils. The air conditioning ester oil Brad mentioned works well, too (I use a similar but not identical product). OK, why? Well, some moulds don't need it at all. M-P moulds and Accurate moulds are perfect examples of this, even the aluminum Accurate moulds don't gall. Neither did BABore's moulds. Better aluminum than Lee I guess. NOE sprue plates and blocks do ok but the alignment pins need all the help they can get to keep from binding. Most of the iron moulds do a little better with some sort of non-stick coating, especially on the alignment points of Lyman moulds where a faint film of lube oil will keep them from wearing out so fast. It's really nice to be able to just wipe off a lead smear from the underside of the sprue plate with a gloved thumb or with a scrap of leather rather than it stick like glue. A well-seasoned mould that has been treated every time in the right places with a good, synthetic oil or even silicone oil works great and only gets better with age, same as a well-cared-for cast iron skillet.

I think that brass moulds, at least those made from free-machining brass, aren't very porous and don't soak up much oil. Brass and steel have a natural sort of lubricity against each other and don't need any lube anyway. If you use a little pre-seasoning routine to oxidize the brass well before use, the lead won't stick to it.

Use what you like, or not, but I'd at least experiment with a few things and see what your moulds seem to like, or not.

Gear

[JimA]

I like the ester oil because it lasts longer than 2stroke oil. It also has a lesser flow on the surface oft he mould so it is less likely to migrate into a cavity. Much of this is because it contains no solvents.
I have a large bottle from lube testing so it was on hand and I tried it. Ester oils a re also a common stock for synthetic 2 strokes.

Sometimes it is a case of using what you have. If it works then run with it.

I started using the ester oil because btroj said it works well. I have to agree with him. I have a lifetime supply I got for a few bucks at Carquest.

[kopperl]

I've been using antisize forever. It works.

[dondiego]

I've been using antisize forever. It works.

I have never tried antisize! You mean it won't let you size your bullets?

Don

[DLCTEX]

I would definitely not use the bees wax as Lee suggests for lubing a mould, or anything that leaves carbon buildup. That is the major reason I use Bullplate, but it also prevents smearing on the sprueplate when cutting the sprue early.
Good one ^^^^

[dragon813gt]

I have never tried antisize! You mean it won't let you size your bullets?

Don

Thanks for making me laugh so hard. I use the lube that Miha sends w/ the molds. W/ the amount I've bought I have enough to last decades. The lube he sends has changed over the years. Pretty sure it's just a dye but the last few bottles I received are blue. I've tried synthetic two stroke oil and it works exactly the same as the lube from Miha. As much as I'd like to try the AC oil. I use it at work and can't stand getting it on my hands. I honestly hate the stuff which is why I choose to not use it. No matter how hard I try I always end up getting some sprue plate lube on my hands.

[Springfield]

I prefer the Bullplate because it works, without the bad smell of the ester oil and without the buildup and the blackening of the mould of Anti-seize. Beewax was the worst for build-up. Not personal preference, just what works better. I have never found Bullplate nor regular 2-stroke oil ever gravitated to the cavities, but then I use it sparingly, like directed.

[imashooter2]

A mold lube needs to prevent galling, have high heat resistance and not migrate. Anything you use that has those 3 properties is fine. I like anti seize.