Hollow Point pin

[IcerUSA]

How does one go about disassembling one ? Is it just a rivit thru a hole in the pin and can be pulled out ? Lyman pin of course .

Picked up a 44 Devaster mould and don't really like the way the HP looks plus it has some flashing on the nose at the pin hole .

Was thinking of takeing 20 - 30 thou off and see how that looks to me as I would like to use it in the 444 Marlin along with the 44 Mag .

Thanks for any advice .

Keith

[MT Gianni]

I had buckshot make me up a couple of replacement pins for a 357 devastator. I was less than pleased with expansion compared to the original out of a 9mm. I would try that as it gives you the option of returning to base. gianni

[beagle]

It's a pin that's press fitted in. You can pull it out with vise grips.

By all means, make a replacement instead of removing it.

I've reduced the pin diameter on the .45, the .44 and the 9mm. Even after these mods, the bullets have never performed to my specifications.

But, that's my opinion only./beagle

[IcerUSA]

Thanks beagle and MT Gianni , I made a new pin , came out to about .205 at the nose and about 3/32's deeper in to the boolit , but it does seem to be off center by .010 - .020 , also was off this much with the original pin also , so , I don't think it's going to go down range very well eather , just my thoughts on it . Has a little flashing on the nose going down the pin a little , just might have to chuck it up and make it straight , then make a pin to fit .

Keith

[Buckshot]

Thanks beagle and MT Gianni , I made a new pin , came out to about .205 at the nose and about 3/32's deeper in to the boolit , but it does seem to be off center by .010 - .020 , also was off this much with the original pin also

Keith

.............How the heck did you get it out of the boolit? :-)

.............Buckshot

[Bass Ackward]

Off center by .020? All I can tell you is that my holes were drilled off center and to different depths and they still out shot my "perfect" slugs.


Beagle,

If you are dissatisfied with your performance, you may want to consider shortening you pin so that it doesn't go into the first drive band area. With shorter bearing are designs relative to overall length, this weakens the front band allowing it to collapse away from the rifling as it is engraving in effect creating more unsupported nose weight. Being as you cut the diameter of the pin down, you probably made it easier to mold better bullets, but you increased the nose weight on a weakened band even more.

So while the advantages of hollow pointing, as you have stated you see it, may be countered by this design weakness either requiring a harder bullet than you prefer to shoot or just not giving you the results you expect. The softer that you like to shoot, the shallower the pin may need to be.

Either way, you aren't happy with it now, play with it.

[IcerUSA]

Buckshot , the pin would come out easy as it would still be parallel to the pin hole . I think the actual amount the hole is off is half the distance stated as it is round . Will be checking it out tho to see if it is just off center or at an angle to the cavity . If it is at an angle it shouldn't take too much to make straight as long as the mid point of the hole is centered but if the hole is on the same plane as the cavity the hole will get bigger by the total distance it is off . Will be doing some measuring today off the faces of the mould to see how far it is off and/or the angle it is at .

Bass , thanks for that info , but still it looks bad to me so I'll play with it , you know use cast boolit type are like ruff perfectionist , ifin it ain't peerdy it woun't shoot for beans . :lol::lol::bigsmyl2:

Keith

[beagle]

Bass... Got too many good HP moulds to mess with these. I've about quit messing with them except for the .44 version which is really good in my .444.

Darned 9mm is almost useless IMO. I'd rather use a 358480HP than mess with it./beagle


Off center by .020? All I can tell you is that my holes were drilled off center and to different depths and they still out shot my "perfect" slugs.


Beagle,

If you are dissatisfied with your performance, you may want to consider shortening you pin so that it doesn't go into the first drive band area. With shorter bearing are designs relative to overall length, this weakens the front band allowing it to collapse away from the rifling as it is engraving in effect creating more unsupported nose weight. Being as you cut the diameter of the pin down, you probably made it easier to mold better bullets, but you increased the nose weight on a weakened band even more.

So while the advantages of hollow pointing, as you have stated you see it, may be countered by this design weakness either requiring a harder bullet than you prefer to shoot or just not giving you the results you expect. The softer that you like to shoot, the shallower the pin may need to be.

Either way, you aren't happy with it now, play with it.

[IcerUSA]

Did some measuring and the pin hole is about .006 at an angle . I'll have to make me a pin to go all the way thru the blocks and do some measuring to find out how far off center it is but I think it's close enough so it won't be too over size from the original pin .

Here are what they look like from the few I got out of the casting last night :

5706

5707

5708

Oh this is so much fun :)

Keith

[IcerUSA]

Well got it chucked up , trued , and rebored the pin hole , wound up at .301.5 with calipers , made a new pin which I had to polish down a bit after I got everything warmed up as it was a touch too tight in the pin hole . Looks better but still off a little , think I'll do a little lapping of the nose area to see how round the cavity is in relation to the pin just to make sure it is good also .

Don't ya just love mass production . :)

Keith

[leftiye]

I was going to say..... But you got to doing it before I read this thread...... The cavity(ies) on a lot of molds aren't square with the blocks. The blocks often aren't square either! Another guy here came up with the idea of machining a steel drill guide in the shape of a boolit (the one in the cavity in question, and with a hole clear through it) to guide the drilling of a hollow point pin channel through the blocks that is on the same axis as the cavity has.

I prefer to either make new pins with a blade where the handle would be, or to remove the handles from hollow point and base pins. This way, the pin can be heated in the mold to a temp consistent with the mold. This either with a hotplate, or heater, or maybe a torch, or by dipping in the lead. The pin can then be handled with pliers.

The gould and other hollow point designs have been around a long time (and maybe I don't know more than their designers did), but I don't like that small narrow deep hollow point cavity AT ALL. Bigger pin, much bigger. Shorter, conical point into the cavity, rounded nose on pin (as blunt as isn't exaggerated). I only want the nose to deform into something like a wadcutter with a moderate musharoomeyroom. Don't want it shedding the mushroom and making another, and shedding that, (and another?), and etc..

[IcerUSA]

The nose now has a small flat area so it should be good to go in the 444 Marlin , I really didn't like the HP and oglive(SP) joint , just didn't look right to me .

Will continue with the Leementing on the Lyman till it looks right to me and then shoot some to see how well they perform out of the revolver and rifle .

Keith

[Ricochet]

Isn't that Lymenting?