Can you ruin a mold

[pearcetopher]

Hi guys

my lee 6 cav 429 was starting to throw boolit bases that had large peices attached to them. I figured the sprue wasn't closing low enough so I removed it and polished both the bottom of the sprue and the top of the mold block to get all the flecks of lead off the surfaces. Needless to say I'm worried using emory cloth will have taken away too much of the top of the mold surface. Or am I just being paranoid? the mold block tops looks brand new now with no grit on the top. Does anyone else do this?

[John Boy]

I figured the sprue wasn't closing low enough so I removed it and polished both the bottom of the sprue and the top of the mold block to get all the flecks of lead off the surfaces.To start with, the flecks are due to running the mold too hot.
A 5 second pour with the sprue puddle frosting in 5 seconds will cure your issue of flecks

[tomme boy]

On Lee molds when this starts, take the top plate off and check the mold for high spots under the pivot hole. That area seems to not get lubed very well and the alum will gall and a high spot forms. Sand it down and it goes away. At least on every Lee mold I have had anyway.

[Shiloh]

Iron and brass mold are a bit more susceptable to damage from warping if too hot. I have scraped the melted lead, as you describe from aluminum molds with zero issues.

Shiloh

[BeeMan]

Once you have a flat clean surface, an appropriate lube will do much to prevent a recurrence. Bullplate lube works great and is used very sparingly. A damp, not wet Q-tip will put more than enough on the bottom of the sprue plate and on the top of the mold.

In my experience an aluminum mold really benefits even more than brass or iron due to the somewhat sticky nature of hot aluminum.

Others report that a synthetic two stroke oil works just like Bullplate.

[Tatume]

I use the end grain of a piece of pine to scrape lead flecks when they occur.

[pearcetopher]

Ok

Also once I had an accident pre heating the mold and it took a full minute to liquefy on the first pour

Hopefully nothing warped

[tg32-20]

cheetah,

I have the same problem with a 311-100 Lee mold.
I contacted Lee and they told me to stake and suggested I got it too hot. I only cast at 680-700 with it.
When it was staked on the outside the pins fell out on the inside. The holes are definitely drill too big, I can push them in and out with ease.
It also cast too small and out of round, so I just gave up on it and bought a different mold.

Tom

[Jeff H]

cheetah,

I have the same problem with a 311-100 Lee mold.
I contacted Lee and they told me to stake and suggested I got it too hot. I only cast at 680-700 with it.
When it was staked on the outside the pins fell out on the inside. The holes are definitely drill too big, I can push them in and out with ease.
It also cast too small and out of round, so I just gave up on it and bought a different mold.

Tom

If this happens to a mould you like, you can easily install a set screw to hold the pins. I use 8-32 set screws and grind a flat spot on the side of the alignment pin. Cures sprue plate screws that want to back out too.

[DLCTEX]

I used a center punch to stipple the sides of the pin. This raises the surface around the dimples and holds well. I wouldn't do this if I thought I may send it back to Lee. Same with installing a set screw.

[hickfu]

I use 2 stroke oil and it works great for me, I also use a copper wire brush on the mold while casting. If the boolits get sticky and dont want to come out I run the brush all over the cavities real quick and they start dropping as soon as I open the mold. I watch the top of the mold as well and if I see any smears starting, I use the brush across the top of the mold and the sprue plate.... Copper wont hurt aluminum at all but it sure keeps it nice and clean...


Doc

[Garyshome]

I trashed a lee mold also!

[Land Owner]

I bought cheap(er) moulds to start with so I could experiment, gain experience, and if I screwed up, I wouldn't feel like I had invested and lost a small fortune. I have learned a lot and know there remains a long way to go in the things I have not yet learned. But, I am much closer to "going big" through investment in some "lifetime" (expensive) moulds in the calibers and bullet shapes that I really want to tune up and shoot a lot.

Neat thing is, along the way, I found that the cheap(er) moulds will cast some REAL good boolets too! It is ALL good...

[longbow]

I would never take emery cloth to am aluminum mould unless it was very fine and I was flattening the face on a piece of glass with emery cloth. Aluminum comes off too quickly.

Heat the mould to casting temperature the wipe it with a paper towel or rag. If that doesn't do it try a wood stick like a popsicle stick to scrape them off. If that doesn't work then crank the heat up a little more until the lead just starts to melt though normally not necessary with alumium mould since lead does not tin to aluminum.

If there is galling on then you might have to flatten the surface using emery on glass or a fine jewelers file laid flat but be careful doing this.

The sprue plate is much easier being steel. It is hard to ruin if you have a reasonably gentle touch.

Since you have already worked on it you may as well try it out and it may be okay. In future, best to use something softer than aluminum to remove anything stuck to aluminum.

Longbow

[roberts1]

i used a wet stone for knife sharpening on the top of my mould and also the sprue plate to remove some minor imperfections. It has a very fine grit and is very flat. Use plenty of oil with it.