New Browning BLR 358 Win

[Lever-man]

I finally got to try out my birthday present to myself today!! Sure was sweet after all the problems I had making the brass to load the ammo to shoot it with. I'm planning on shooting cast in it, and have a NOE 35-200 coming to cast the boolits for it. I choose this mold because nearly everyone here seems to agree that it is one of the best for the 358 Win. I slugged the barrel using a 375 RB, at .358. After tapping the RB in with a rawhide hammer it slid the rest of the way to the chamber with just two fingers, it took a slight tap for it to finish dropping out. I'm not sure whether that is a good or a bad thing.

Browning recommends that a new barrel be broken in using j words by shooting one round, cleaning, then repeating the process for 10 rounds. So I loaded 10 rounds of some 357 158 gr pistol j words over 48 gr. of H322. There was a lot of copper fouling after each shot........... really hard to get out!! Is this normal? I don't remember any of the other rifles that I've owned having this problem. After the initial 10 rounds I mounted my scope, a Redfield Battle Zone Tactical, and loaded some more j words. I was out of the 158 gr 357's so this time I loaded some 125 gr Hornaday XTP HP, over 48 gr. of H322. After getting on paper at 25 yds I backed up to 100 yds and finished the sight in. The main group is just under 1 7/8" with two flyers........ not sure what happened there??? Still getting a lot of copper fouling in the barrel! I got a bottle of Bore Tech Inc. Cu+2 copper remover, this worked better than anything I've tried so for. I'm hoping for a lot better from CB when I get those set up and going. Preferably no leading and tighter groups! I would welcome suggestions/constructive criticism, as I'm still a noobie at making and shooting CB's.

97495 97496

[richhodg66]

I'm a newbie to the .358 and am working with a Savage 99 in it, but so far am real pleased.

I have the NOE mold you speak of, and haven't cast with it yet. I had some very similar ones cast by someone else which shot very well in mine today. I think I'm really going to like this cartridge and rifle.

[Ben]

Did you measure your lead slug with a caliper or a micrometer ?

[Lever-man]

I measured it with a micrometer.

[richhodg66]

Could the copper fouling be the result of pistol bullets not being designed for rifle velocities like that? Also, are .38 pistol bullets .357 or .358? If they are undersized would that cause copper fouling like undersized cast bullets lead?

[Lever-man]

Could the copper fouling be the result of pistol bullets not being designed for rifle velocities like that? Also, are .38 pistol bullets .357 or .358? If they are undersized would that cause copper fouling like undersized cast bullets lead?

I wondered that myself. I got the load information from the Speer Reloading Manual #10, and I used the start load. Pistol bullets are .357.

[Dryball]

Instead of using the Browning method to break in a barrel have you considered fire-lapping it? This will smooth the burrs and polish the rifling way better than 10 rounds of j-words ammo. Its very easy and works wonders. If you don't feel like fire lapping you could try hand lapping...but you must be sure to use a muzzle guide. .001" shouldn't make that big of a difference in fouling

[TXGunNut]

Does sound like a bit of a rough bore, needs a few hundred J-words or a bit of lapping, you choose. I think it'll be worth it, either way.

[waksupi]

I have a Douglas barrel I had to fire lap around 20 shots to smooth it up. Lots easier and cheaper than burning up jacketed bullets. Size your cast boolits to .359-.360.

[Lever-man]

Yes, I was considering fire lapping, but wanted some other opinions before trying it. The barrel seems to have two tight spots. One at the crown, and the other just in front of the throat. Since the body of the barrel is not tight at all, do I need to start at 220 grit and go through the whole process? Or just shoot some rounds through it using the 600 grit. I shot 20 rounds sighting the rifle in, and the copper was pretty thick the last inch or so close to the muzzle end, I don't have a bore scope so I can't see where else there is copper fouling.

[Dryball]

I got the Whelen kit from Brownells years ago and can't remember what grits they provide. Just follow the instructions and I also finish up with JB Bore bright. I use Kroil to clean between lapping compounds but you can use your solvent of choice. There are other companies out there that sell the stuff my my experience is limited the the Whelen kit.

[Lever-man]

Dryball, I'm going to try Wheeler Engineering's system, they use 220, 320, then finish with 600. I had ordered some 600 from Midway and have that on hand, but the individual jars of 220 & 320 are on back order now. I discovered that I can get them direct from Wheeler for $10 each plus shipping, about $5 cheaper than Midway. When I get the fire lapping done I will post the results. I really appreciate everyone that has replied to this thread, sharing their experiences, since signing up I've learned more in a few short months than I've learned in years!!! I made up some Ed's Red this week so I will be trying that out as my solvent.

[OuchHot!]

Just a thought, those weren't plated peestol boolits were they? Those would sure foul in a rifle and Cu fouling is not so fun to remove. If I'm off base, please don't be insulted....

[Lever-man]

Just a thought, those weren't plated peestol boolits were they? Those would sure foul in a rifle and Cu fouling is not so fun to remove. If I'm off base, please don't be insulted....

If you mean jacketed pistol bullets, yes, but if you are talking about the Rainier plated pistol bullets, no. I do agree that the Cu fouling I'm experiencing with these bullets is not fun to remove!!