Fluxing WW Initially - How Much?

[shotstring]

I'm assuming these days that WW's don't have much tin in them to begin with, and that antimony isn't going to seperate, oxidize or float the way tin does, but I would still like to make sure I'm keeping all the hardening agents in my melt the first time I remove the dross (clips, dirt, sandwich wrappers, etc).

I want to keep the good stuff, but don't want to keep stirring the dirt, clips and impurities including zinc, back into the mix. What is the best way to handle that intial fluxing and dross removal?

[STP]

Keep the pot at 650* and flux and skim the way most would. The lower temperature will allow any zinc weights to stay on the top and can be skimmed off with the rest of the trash.
Flux again and be sure to scrape the bottom of the pot and the sides in circular and up and down motions. This will release alot more trash to the top of the melt.
I`ve had to flux and skim a fresh batch of weights more than 3 times until the gunk stopped showing up on the surface of the melt. (The dark "sandy" residue that comes to the top)
It`s worth the effort to get as much as you can out now....why do it again when you are ready to cast boolits?

[eaglefacts]

How much flux do you put in each time? I will be using a Old Dutch Oven to do my smelting, and will probably try to keep it about 1-1.5 inches fron the top?

[leftiye]

Depends what you use. Generally, enough to lightly cover the top of the melt. Doesn't have to be a complete cover, and not thick at all. Sawdust, wax, boolit lube, motor oil, anything that burns. Stearic acid is one of the best. Stir only with a stick. If you don't you're missing a good bet of getting rid of the stuff down inside the melt.

[eaglefacts]

OK, Thank you leftiye.

[eaglefacts]

Leftiye, I have another Qustion, how do you know what to scoop off as dross and what do you leave in?

[BruceB]

My smelting is done in a steel pot made from 6" heavy-wall pipe, using a Harbor Freight weed-burner for heat. The pot will hold about sixty pounds of alloy, but I only fill it to around thirty pounds for safer handling.

The temperature NEVER stabilizes. As each batch of weights nears melting point, I keep stirring it to test. The melt goes from the slushy state to a liquid VERY QUICKLY, a matter of a few seconds, and as soon as it is obviously liquid I scoop out absolutely everything that's floating, and 'garbage-can' the stuff.

The important thing here is that, by closely watching for the liquification and then scooping immediately, all the potential problems with zinc are removed at relatively low temps. NO contamination is possible. Once the floaters are gone, I'm free to flux, stir, pray to the nature gods, or whatever.... time problems don't really exist. My fluxing is done with a 1"-diameter dowel, and I use it until very little crud is evident. On occasion, I have used clean motor oil, but didn't notice much difference from using the 1" dowel (which also allows scraping the pot sides while fluxing). I flux as quickly as possible to minimize heat buildup in the melt.

There aren't any secrets. Get it melted, get rid of the clips and everything else that's floating IMMEDIATELY upon liquification, do a quick fluxing and call it good.

[leftiye]

After you've fluxed, take everything on top off and chuck it. That is - if you've fluxed correctly and well and the remains on top aren't metallic but look like ashes and other crud. Use one of them holy spoons that will pick up the dross and strain the lead out through the holes.

There is a big difference between fluxes and if you don't do it right you can end up throwing salvageable lead away. But don't get too anal about this, just keep it on the good side as per waste.

Read the thread here called "Mush (you huskies?)" to see how bad it can get.

[eaglefacts]

OK Thanks guys for the info... I will put it to good use. Jeff

[Ghugly]

I picked up a stainless steel skimmer from a restaurant supply house for like $7. It's made of a wire mesh of perhaps 3/8" or so, that I use to remove the clips and such. After that, I flux with sawdust and a stick and skim with a large spoon.

[mingol]

I use an inch of old candle about two or three times for a 4 quart pot of wheelweights. Once all the crud has been removed from the pot, I use a steel soup ladle to move the melted alloy to the ingot molds. The pot itself is far too heavy to fool with.

[Blackhawk Convertable]

With all the oils and such that are on the WW's, I didn't have to flux much to end up with clean ingots. I did mine on a pair of electric elements (220v.) Once they melted, just scooped the crud off the top, sprinkled with a small handful of sawdust, skimmed again and called it clean. I just cast and sized my first 1800 bullets yesterday and today. Went great!!!

[shotstring]

I guess you folks answered my question. I wondered if anyone stirred the clips and junk on the top deep into the mix during initial fluxing and it would seem that no one does. Just melt and remove the clips and dross....THEN flux and clean.

Thanks.

[Castinoff]

Thanks BruceB, this tip is appreciated.

"The important thing here is that, by closely watching for the liquification and then scooping immediately, all the potential problems with zinc are removed at relatively low temps. NO contamination is possible."