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moose0011
02-06-2014, 10:16 PM
I chose the title hopefully to get some rather smart peoples attention. This is my first post and I do not know anyone on here. I work for a gun company
and I do not want to get bombarded with questions about our guns. Maybe if I get to know you I might let you in on my little secret :). I am a gunsmith, and I have reloaded quite a bit, I do not feel I know everything I am learning everyday. I do not cast bullets YET! That is why I am here. When we bring guns in for warranty we test them in a snail system(basically a water trap) and we test everything. I have probably 100 lbs of lead a month easy but it is a mixture of copper, various sizes of shot(which I know are different blends) wads, rim fire lead you name it, and in water to add another obstical. Now can anyone give me any idea what I am going to run into as far as hardness when I go to melt all this and start turning this into ingots? And If your in the Kansas City(there is a hint to where I work) area I might share if your willing to teach and help. I know that there is far more than I will possibly ever be ever to shoot. I honestly have tons of questions and it is hard to decipher what is true and what isn't? I am seeing where people are covering bullets with enamel...? why? does that help with lube, or does it help with cutting? And the gun I am wanting to Cast for first is a 458 win mag, I have lots of others but that is the one I want to do first. It will be the biggest money saver and I would like to do 405 gr at 2200 fps and the same with a 300 or 350 HP. I realize this is probably one of the most scattered up posts ever. any help or advice would be wonderful,

s mac
02-06-2014, 10:30 PM
Welcome moose0011, sounds like you have quite a predicament. I would say you need to smelt some, try to get a rough idea of the hardness and maybe adjust with some harder material to get a useable alloy. Start reading stickies and many of your questions will be answered. I'm a few hours from KC so not much help there.

AlaskanGuy
02-06-2014, 10:37 PM
Welcome to the forum Moose... And here I was thinking that you might be an alaskan or something.... Lol

Well, it dont matter where ya work, but if you hang around here, you WILL learn all you ever wanted to know about casting your very own "boolits" that you can shoot all ya want into at big fish tank you got at work....

I am a big bore kinda guy myself, and cast for a lot of heavies, just not the 458. 375 h&h is my heavy of choice, but also cast for 45-70, a bunch of marlin heavies... We got big critters up here in the remote part of Alaska, so the heavies are required... You will find that the heavies are simply the easiest things to cast for.... And the most forgiving. A first start for you would to be to grab yourself a copy of the lyman cast bullet handbook... And start reading about smelting, in the lead alloy section of the forum... Also, there is a stickey in that thread about making yourself a large smelting pot out of an old propane tank for making ingots... From the sound of things, you will need a big pot for all them bullets we call range scrap... Lots of us folks mine them bullets for our primary source of lead, and you will prolly get a hardness of between 8 -12 bhn from them bullets... However you smelt them into ingot form, be sure you buy, make, or somehow cover the melting pot as them bullets could pop and throw lead around while they are heating up. Also, be 1000% sure that they are dry and never add boolits to be smelted into a molten lead pot.... Just drop the temp until your melting pot cools enough for any lead in it to solidify, then add your lead and reheat.... Any other way, and you could be visited by what we call the Tinsle Fairy.... And you will not like the visit...

Blessings to you, and welcome to the forum. If you have any questions about anything, just PM me...

AlaskanGuy

pworley1
02-06-2014, 10:38 PM
Welcome, once you start casting, you are hooked for life.

williamwaco
02-06-2014, 10:40 PM
I have bought several hundred pounds of range bullet scrap from several sources.



BNH is always in the range of 8 to 10.

moose0011
02-06-2014, 10:42 PM
north or south of kansas city. I am originally from northern MO and I still own land up there..

moose0011
02-06-2014, 10:47 PM
I am not sure of the stickies you are talking about. And as for my name moose I got it because of my size 6'7" 320lbs. I should be a football player lol. Thanks for the advise to on cooling the lead down and letting it solidify before putting new in.. I hadn't thought of that. I was going to wait for a hot day and stretch a tarp out and sprinkle it on it . I couldn't think of anything else.

Bloodman14
02-06-2014, 10:49 PM
First, melt/alloy everything into 1 big batch, and then determine BHN. It will most likely be fine for general purpose/plinking/pistol stuff, to get started. Alloy for rifles will start the journey down the one-way road!

Welcome aboard!

jimb16
02-06-2014, 10:55 PM
If we ask questions about your firearms it is so that we can answer your questions more appropriately. Different firearms and different intended uses will get you different answers. When you ask, please be as specific as possible about the firearm and the application. Alloys vary, velocities vary, etc.... There can be many correct answers to what seems like a simple question. I've been shooting cast boolits for almost 45 years and I'm still a bit of a beginner.

s mac
02-06-2014, 10:56 PM
Most all of the subforums have stickies, at the top of the thread lists. As far as smelting your range scrap, if you fill your pot before you apply heat the water will evaporate before the lead melt, no problem. Just don't add water to a hot pot.

moose0011
02-06-2014, 10:56 PM
what do you mean by alloy for rifles will start the journey down the one-way road? I basically only do rifle's I do shoot some 9mm. But I get more enjoyment out of the longer range stuff. So I guess the rifle comment has me interested

moose0011
02-06-2014, 10:59 PM
you can ask all the questions you want about my firearm. It is just the company I work for I don't want to talk about. The firearm I am talking about right now is a Mauser 98 with a McGowen barrel that is half octagon and half round also it is a 1:12 twist and 26" long. the stock I made out of a busted up bell and carlson and a I re milled the aluminum bedding block to fit. I am still building it but it will be done shortly.

moose0011
02-06-2014, 11:02 PM
I just realized it posted you are in southwest MO I feel like an idiot now asking where you were earlier. and as far as the subforum stickies.. I am still trying to figure this site out. I have figured out how to get to this forum and that is it.

AlaskanGuy
02-06-2014, 11:12 PM
Here is a thread on how to smelt range scrap safely for noobs.... Take a peek.... Just click the link below...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?219043-For-noob-s-A-basic-lead-ingot-setup-for-Range-bullet-scrap&highlight=Noob

I also PMed you the link for reference...

When you figure out how to post pictures in these threads, would love to see a pic of that mauser... I have a thing about mausers, and yours sounds very interesting...

AG

Bzcraig
02-06-2014, 11:21 PM
Welcome aboard future booliteer! The 'stickies' you will find if you go to the front page of the site and begin to look through the posts. The were turned from a 'post' to 'sticky' because the information they contained was good enough to save in perpetuity. Another thing you will find is that guys like myself will always holler for pictures and get real cranky when we don't get them. I WANT TO SEE YOUR RIFLE NOW AND WHEN IT IS DONE. If you ever see purple fonts, that indicates sarcasm. If I wasn't on the left coast you can bet I would help all I was able AND exploit your lead supply. BTW, this site and these guys/gals are the best!

What the heck are you shooting on this continent with the 458mag?

jonp
02-06-2014, 11:27 PM
My suggestion would be to smelt it all, use what you need ans sell the rest. Use the money to throw your co wirkers a bbq in the summer. You will gain experiance melting, casting and reliading and your co workers will have a great time

OBIII
02-06-2014, 11:40 PM
Moose,
_____Welcome to the forum. Each forum has stickies, and subforums. Subforums may also have stickies. Stickies are all questions that have been asked and answered many times. To endear yourself to the Curmudgeons here, please read the stickies before posting a question. Not a requirement, just makes it easier for you to formulate a specific question.
_____As far as lead processing, it depends on what you have, what your end plan is. For example, most shot has antimony in it, and as such is used to increase the hardness of a batch of alloy. If you have the time and space, separate it by type for a while. I. e. fired cast boolits in one bucket, fired jacketed in another, lead shot in one, etc. etc. As you learn about the types of alloys required to get a specific hardness, this type of sorting will come into play. You will need a heat source, (propane), smelting pot (lead is heavy), sawdust/candlewax/rosin flux (for fluxing), ingot molds (pre-made, muffin tins (no teflon), cast iron cornbread molds, etc), tools to scoop the dross from the top of the lead and something to stir the lead. The important thing for determining hardness, is to keep all ingots from one batch marked and separate from subsequent batches. Just because you used basically the same stuff for ten 50 pound batches, does not mean that all will be the same hardness. With a hardness tester, you can measure your own samples and label your ingots accordingly. Keep your smelting temp around 650 or so, to preclude incorporating any zinc.
_____As far as who you work for, it will come out eventually. :roll: The important thing is safety. As a previous poster said, just smelting it all together will probably give you a bhn of 9-12, which is good for most boolits. Type of gun, speed, range, boolit size, etc. all factor in to determining the hardness that you want to use.
_____I realize that this is a bit lengthy, but it barely scratches the surface. (maybe .001%). Come into Chat sometime, lots of knowledgeable people there and you do not have to wait for an answer. For now, just continue to accumulate lead, something that you can never have too much of. :Fire:

OB

moose0011
02-06-2014, 11:52 PM
I don't have any pics of it and it is far from done right now but I would be more than happy to take some pics for you. somebody else turned it into a 30-06 along time ago and I didn't want a 30-06. I had a friend I went to Colorado School of Trades with that was a big fan of the big bores and always gave me tons of **** because I loved quarter calibers and 6.5 calibers. One of my favorite calibers is the Swede and I have actually designed my own cartridge off of the swede case. it is like crossing a Swede and a BR case. Anyways back to the story on this 30-06.. I bought 3 of these rifles from a guy that had just found out he had cancer and was scraping up any means of money for treatment. I offered him more even though I felt like I was ripping the guy off. He wouldn't take more. I turned one into a 6.5x55 with a laminate stock and gave it to my step dad. I did some trading with one of the others and ended up with a 1909 Argentine that had the bolt face already opened up and I decided on a 257 weatherby so I am in the middle of building the weatherby and this 458 Win mag. I lived in an apartment the last 2 years and there is a little bit of rust on them because the metal is still in the white but nothing major. I really don't want to take pictures of that. But I guess I can tomorrow.

moose0011
02-06-2014, 11:54 PM
Thanks BZ.. I will try to put a pic up tomorrow of it. but it is nothing special at the moment. and to answer what do I plan on shooting with a 458 Win mag. I guess whatever I want lol.. honestly I am a big recycler and I can't let a milk jug or pop can set in a recyling bin with no holes in them :). I find if you fill them with water and shot them you can fit more of them in the bin

moose0011
02-06-2014, 11:56 PM
I really don't want to sell it since it is free to me. I don't want them to notice they could make a profit off of it. but I have no problem sharing if someone around shares in the work. I would honestly have to ask our lawyer and HR if they would find it a bad thing. I guess If I Feed them with it it wouldn't be to big of a deal right

moose0011
02-07-2014, 12:01 AM
Ok so what do you mean 650 or so to preclude incorporating any zinc?

And What I am wanting I know I won't get. I would like a 405 gr Bullet that is a Hollow point that expands and hits like a hammer and yet doesn't foul my bore :) is that to much to ask?

mpbarry1
02-07-2014, 12:08 AM
Welcome aboard. I have been learning from these folks for three years now. It took a year for me to get everything gathered upand cast my first bullets. i think you will find that this is a pretty cool group of folks with more knowledge than the worlds entire written record. They innovate, experiment, argue, teach, and mentor everyone who asks for it. some are sweet, most are crochety, and all are people I'd like to meet. Have fun!

AlaskanGuy
02-07-2014, 12:14 AM
You wont have to worry much about Zinc if your just doing range scrap... I doubt if you have any Zinc Bullets in your water tank.... But what he was talking about was Zinc melts at higher temp then lead, so if you monitor your temp, you can just skim off any zinc stuff... but like I said, unless your job is testing Zinc bullets, no worries....

and I LOVE my Swiss K31.. would love to hear more about the round that you developed for it...we have a forum under the main menu of forums called Milsurp Rifles... that would be a great place to post about your special round...

AG

moose0011
02-07-2014, 12:30 AM
You wont have to worry much about Zinc if your just doing range scrap... I doubt if you have any Zinc Bullets in your water tank.... But what he was talking about was Zinc melts at higher temp then lead, so if you monitor your temp, you can just skim off any zinc stuff... but like I said, unless your job is testing Zinc bullets, no worries....

and I LOVE my Swiss K31.. would love to hear more about the round that you developed for it...we have a forum under the main menu of forums called Milsurp Rifles... that would be a great place to post about your special round...

AG

I didn't design my round on a mauser though.. just the Cartridge. My gun is a push feed. I don't have a stock yet but it will be a Manners. I know the owner which helps :) my barrels are both Kriegers 1:8 twists one is a 28" and the other is a 30" I might chop the 28 down to 24 and hunt with it.. not sure..

Harter66
02-07-2014, 12:54 AM
Moose,
I don't have any time w/any of the 45 cal rifles . But there are many threads here on the 45-70 which loaded for Ruger No1s or Mausers gets pretty close to what you're looking for. The 458 should be able to get you there w/o too much trouble. Then there is the option to paper patch , cast boolits at jacketed speeds .

The powder coating is another tool to shoot cast . In practice it should head off leading and it seems to be working up to about 30kpsi . Better for some than others.

smkummer
02-07-2014, 09:26 AM
Since your range scrap has some shotgun shot in it, it may come out harder than 8-10 BHN. And quenching in water helps all alloys with hardness. For example most of my wheel weight alloy comes out at 12 and that includes stick on weights that are softer than clip on weights. If I drop into water, the bullets hit 20. Since you are wanting to cast for a .458 magnum with 2200 FPS, you may find that quenched bullets along with a gas check may be just fine. Good luck.

cheetah
02-07-2014, 09:49 AM
"I don't want them to notice they could make a profit off of it."

That used to be called stealing.

10x
02-07-2014, 10:22 AM
what do you mean by alloy for rifles will start the journey down the one-way road? I basically only do rifle's I do shoot some 9mm. But I get more enjoyment out of the longer range stuff. So I guess the rifle comment has me interested

I have cast bullets for over 50 years. What got me really interested was a 150 grain Lee bullet sized 0.310 at 1700 fps fired from my dads 30/06 that would give a 1" group at 100 yards and hammer an 8" gong every shot at 275 Yards. An accurate cast bullet load is an interesting load.

Littleton Shot Maker
02-07-2014, 11:55 AM
there is a really good little book Magma sells, easy to read- simple - but very informative ----one of their Former Emp. Paul ??? wrote many years back and is a great book to have on hand for those brand, brand new to casting , bares the stuff you need to know and not allot of the extra stuff you don;t need to know now, does not go into smelting , cleaning, etc. just casting and issues there in.

Lyman handbook for casting 3rd ed, handed down from my dad, as old or older than me, great resource to have, hard read though- folks here will help, just ask.

When used to clean lean, 600# pot runs - range lead- the pot was calibrated to not exceed 625F the higher you go the easier to get the zinc and copper to leach out, even it does not reach melt point for that specific metal>>>, remember mixed alloys make melt and flow temps change,

so if zinc pure melts at 750?? (example) it will change when added, or mixed with the other metals, so that melt point could really be 680?? (example) too close to lead for my likes.

Hardcast416taylor
02-07-2014, 01:09 PM
How often is the snail trap emptied? If the collection from the trap is smelted to make a single batch then that batch should be tested to determine the hardness. Be aware that every smelt from the trap may vary somewhat due to the type of projectiles fired into it. A 100 lb. smelt should keep you occupied for a good long time. Addatives can be added to a smelt to alter the hardness and ability to flow better. Tin is a common additive as are adding wheel weights or linotype to alter the alloy characteristics. Smelting also will free the copper material and other non lead dirt from the melted lead. BEWARE!! the water in the trap can be trapped in copper jackets or moisture be trapped in chunks of the lead! This is the dangerous part of smelting lead products that may have moisture/water in with the lead. This can cause eruptions that can throw molten lead out of the smelting vessal, this is also known as the "tinsel fairy". So the scrap lead should be as bone dry as it can be for smelting.

I cast for many cals. up to .45 cal. for .45 - 70 rollers. My favorites seem to be .416, .338 and .375 cals. You`re a little too far from me up here in Mi. for a face to face type of help, but there are others closer that may be of help. Remember the statement, "There is no such thing as a stupid question to ask, only a need to understand a procedure better".Robert

Walter Laich
02-07-2014, 01:37 PM
A 100 lb. smelt should keep you occupied for a good long time.

Not to disagree but I just cast 40 lbs in two days: 200gr 45 Colt RNFP

Island Trash
02-07-2014, 01:50 PM
I just ordered a few NOE boolit moulds 460405. It will drop a 405 gr solid and in the RG configuration will drop hollow points (not sure of hollow point weight) I plan on running this in a 458 as well as a 45/70. I have plain base mould and gas check mould coming. I could send you some if you want to try them. Just pm me if interested.

moose0011
02-07-2014, 03:15 PM
That was more of a joke, I talked to my boss and he don't really care. He said as long as I did it off company hours and he didn't have to deal with it. its one less thing to pay someone to haul off. If I thought I was stealing I wouldn't do it.

moose0011
02-07-2014, 04:02 PM
sounds like a good thermometer is a must when melting down to make ingots.

moose0011
02-07-2014, 04:07 PM
we empty the snail about once a week and there is usually around 50 lbs of **** in it for about 6 weeks then there is about 100 lbs the next 2 weeks then it goes back to 50 or so and it could be more than that and sometimes less but if I was going to give a good honest guess that would be it. Most of it is lead however, there is copper and other things in there. There is definately more than I can possibly afford to buy powder for to shoot. I had been warned about the "tinsel fairy" I hadn't heard that before but I had it figured out what it meant, however thank you for the explination.

CSH
02-07-2014, 04:35 PM
I would tend to think your mix will be a little on the soft side for full power 458 Win even if you quench, but you won't know until trying it. Be sure to read up about bullet fit, particularly throat fit in rifles if you want the best accuracy. You could always trade any of the excess soft alloy for harder alloy if necessary.

Be sure to save the copper from the jackets. That can be sold to a recycler and used to purchase casting "necessities". I started with a Lee 2 cavity mold, Lee 10 lb pot, and RCBS lube sizer in 1996. I would be embarrassed to reveal how molds, sizers, etc that are now in my possession. My wife thinks I have a mental disorder. :wink:

sixshot
02-07-2014, 04:59 PM
Good to see you posting here moose. My oldest son also graduated from the gunsmithing school in Lakewood. He was there in the early 90's, been "smithing" every since.
To speed up the learning curve try to find someone local who is a caster....they are everywhere! Then get all your metal cast into ingots & as mentioned make sure everything is DRY, you can lay it out in the sun for a few days.
One rule of thumb is, don't run a soft bullet fast & don't run a hard bullet slow, you'll usually end up with the same results if you do & thats leading in your barrels. Lots to learn but its a fun education, I've been casting since 1966 & never get tired of it. Casting for that 458 will be great fun, you can load it up or down to suit your needs. I took one to Africa, it was a 15" Encore single shot handgun with a custom muzzle brake I built for it, worked great using cast.

Dick

moose0011
02-07-2014, 07:09 PM
I would tend to think your mix will be a little on the soft side for full power 458 Win even if you quench, but you won't know until trying it. Be sure to read up about bullet fit, particularly throat fit in rifles if you want the best accuracy. You could always trade any of the excess soft alloy for harder alloy if necessary.

Be sure to save the copper from the jackets. That can be sold to a recycler and used to purchase casting "necessities". I started with a Lee 2 cavity mold, Lee 10 lb pot, and RCBS lube sizer in 1996. I would be embarrassed to reveal how molds, sizers, etc that are now in my possession. My wife thinks I have a mental disorder. :wink:

You should see my basement. my wife I believe knows I have a mental disorder.. She says she is just glad that she found someone that has a hobby that just doesn't watch tv all day or play video games all the time or things of that nature. And she is right my hobby is way more expensive than them :) and rewarding

moose0011
02-07-2014, 07:12 PM
Good to see you posting here moose. My oldest son also graduated from the gunsmithing school in Lakewood. He was there in the early 90's, been "smithing" every since.
To speed up the learning curve try to find someone local who is a caster....they are everywhere! Then get all your metal cast into ingots & as mentioned make sure everything is DRY, you can lay it out in the sun for a few days.
One rule of thumb is, don't run a soft bullet fast & don't run a hard bullet slow, you'll usually end up with the same results if you do & thats leading in your barrels. Lots to learn but its a fun education, I've been casting since 1966 & never get tired of it. Casting for that 458 will be great fun, you can load it up or down to suit your needs. I took one to Africa, it was a 15" Encore single shot handgun with a custom muzzle brake I built for it, worked great using cast.

Dick

well hopefully I don't have to deal with the wet lead alot longer. we are getting a new system here in the next few months and there will be no water involved.. :) that will make my job alot easier. You said something that I didn't know as far as the rule of them. what causes the excessive leading if you push hard bullets slow? I understand soft bullets fast from cutting but I don't understand it in the opposite senario.

dbosman
02-07-2014, 09:32 PM
I'm going to suggest you smoke that lead before cooking it.
Two metal buckets or halves of a grease barrel, a piece of metal smokestack, and a hole in the ground for a fire.
Make a good bed of coals in the hole in the ground. One bucket sits (upside down) on top of the hole. It's connected to the right side up bucket with several feet of smoke stack duct. The heat will dry the lead without bringing it to a melt temperature.

youngda9
02-07-2014, 10:12 PM
Welcome aboard. Get yourself a smelting setup first and start making ingots. Even if you don't get into casting you can sell them for $1/lb easily. You'll need to do that first anyways before you start making boolits. If that's not for you than you can sell the raw materials to someone who will smelt them and use the money to buy boolits.

moose0011
02-07-2014, 10:18 PM
I'm going to suggest you smoke that lead before cooking it.
Two metal buckets or halves of a grease barrel, a piece of metal smokestack, and a hole in the ground for a fire.
Make a good bed of coals in the hole in the ground. One bucket sits (upside down) on top of the hole. It's connected to the right side up bucket with several feet of smoke stack duct. The heat will dry the lead without bringing it to a melt temperature.

I had thought of something with the same idea in mind but a little different. but thank you

moose0011
02-07-2014, 10:23 PM
Welcome aboard. Get yourself a smelting setup first and start making ingots. Even if you don't get into casting you can sell them for $1/lb easily. You'll need to do that first anyways before you start making boolits. If that's not for you than you can sell the raw materials to someone who will smelt them and use the money to buy boolits.

I plan on making the ingots. I just don't know where to sell them. I do plan on making bullets for myself but I know I will never make 50 lbs of bullets a week and won't have the powder to supply that amount of bullets a week. but I thought I could use the money to buy more tools for it and that it could help me buy a nice melting pot, and my molds and a lubrisizer. Things of that nature. I just don't know anyone that casts bullets at all. I know a Ton of people that reload and shoot but not one person that casts bullets. everyone I have ever knew told me to not waste my time because I would be cleaning my gun more than shooting.. something makes me not exactly believe that or there wouldn't be so many that do it.

bruce381
02-07-2014, 11:14 PM
just fill your smelter pot COLD then make up a lid and turn on the fire.

do not add any raw lead while it is melted and hot, the slow heatup will drive off any water from stating with a cold pot.

youngda9
02-07-2014, 11:15 PM
Sell them through this website, ebay, craigslist...anywhere. You have a source of income there that can fund your shooting and reloading...perfect !

Get some reloading manuals and the Lyman cast bullet handbook and read them.

moose0011
02-07-2014, 11:25 PM
Sell them through this website, ebay, craigslist...anywhere. You have a source of income there that can fund your shooting and reloading...perfect !

Get some reloading manuals and the Lyman cast bullet handbook and read them.

I am quite confident in my reloading.. I have not Questions there. just on cast bullets themselves. I am quite confident in that. I have quite a few reloading manuals and honestly I don't really use them anymore. except maybe to check a burn speed. I do need to get the lyman cast bullet handbook I agree with that. I am reading From Ingot to Target by Glen E. Fryxell. I would have to say for free it seems pretty good.

moose0011
02-07-2014, 11:27 PM
Out of curiosity, on this website is there a Classifieds section? I have been looking and no luck yet?

Harter66
02-08-2014, 12:02 AM
Its in the commercial section ''swaping and selling'' '' want to buy'' '' Pay it forward'' and group buys........don't go in there w/o your patience and a little extra money put away.....

myg30
02-08-2014, 12:24 PM
Moose, Welcome to the forum. Lots of great folks here and tons of info too. I will tell you that once you start casting there is NO return. I enjoy casting more than shooting them. Its never work, it is relaxing even when there might be a learning curve like new mold that just gives you a hard time throwing good boolits. I will add to this, NEVER BE in a rush when casting or smelting lead [as in reloading too]. If time does not permit then wait till it does. Burns take a while to heal and scars don't go away. SAFTY is #1 always. Protective gear like long pants,long sleeve shirt, good heavy gloves, and socks n shoes or boots and sturdy level work bench. Level ? you find out on your first molten lead spill when it runs on to you or your legs or feet.
You started reading in a really good place. I like to re read his writing to refresh my worn memory. Be safe, ask all you need, NEVER a dump question here as your health n safety is primary.

Have fun and enjoy, Mike

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?18-Swappin-amp-Sellin

grouch
02-08-2014, 02:17 PM
To answer your 1st question, there is no telling what the BHN will be. An old Lyman book suggests adding a little tin to salvaged lead. That won't harden it much, but may make it cast better.
I'm not as sure as a lot of posters that you need hard alloy. Maybe you do, but I'd try it first. Velocities pushing 2000fps have been achieved in 30 30 with alloys of 20:1 lead and tin, probably in a faster twist barrel than your .458. An alloy that soft probably wouldn't need to be hollow pointed if you're shooting big stuff.
Grouch

Wolfer
02-08-2014, 02:23 PM
When I'm smelting WWs while the first pot is melting I have another pot on a Coleman stove with enough heat to dry them out. Then as I fill my ingot mold and while it's cooling a minute I fill the pot back up with hot WWs. Then I add more to the warming pot.

moose0011
02-09-2014, 04:27 AM
tonight I went out and purchased a 7 quart cast iron dutch oven to melt down, clean, and make ingots out of. I have decided not to go with the hollow point. I am going to order the RCBS mold 405 gr FP with GC. I debated on the 300 and the 500 gr. but I thing the 405 will give me the best of both worlds.. and I may not even need to order another mold for that gun.. only thing I don't like is it is single cavity. I have a lyman 4500 with a heater on the way and I don't know what lube to use with my rifle. does anyone have any suggestions? I was looking at the lyman orange and the lyman moly. I shoot outdoors only. I have also thought about just making my own..

Once again I would like to thank all you guys for your knowledge and help..

AlaskanGuy
02-09-2014, 05:05 AM
There is a entire catagory called boolit lube... There are a couple stickeys there that have about every recipe known to man.. Here is the link....
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?58-Boolit-Lube-!

As for me, i keep it simple... I buy beeswax off ebay, and mix it 50/50 with johnsons paste wax... Same stuff i used to buff the barracks floors with when I was in the military... Just mix together on LOW heat till it is all melted together, and add a crayon of whatever color you like and pour it into your lyman 450 and you are good to go... Same thing I use for my 375, and works great... And the stuff that is in the johnsons paste wax keeps your barrel pretty and clean...

Ag

Wolfer
02-09-2014, 09:12 AM
Moose, has fluxing been mentioned yet. I've read the whole thread but now I can't remember. Woody

moose0011
02-09-2014, 08:30 PM
Moose, has fluxing been mentioned yet. I've read the whole thread but now I can't remember. Woody

honestly I don't remember if it has been mentioned or not.. I understand the concept but I have heard so many different thing on it from using the fluxing compound, or just use sawdust. you do it when making ingots and then you flux when you put it in your casting furnace.

s mac
02-09-2014, 09:07 PM
So, have you fired up your smelting pot yet? Yeah, buy one mold to start with, but I think you will want more, and more........
Sawdust make a good flux, maybe throw a little wax in with it, stir well , skim it off, your good to go. May have to flux more than once.

moose0011
02-10-2014, 01:56 PM
just out of curiosity, I bought a 7 quart cast iron dutch oven. How many pounds do you think that will make in a batch. I understand you do not want to fill it completely full.. maybe and inch from the top or so... right... or wrong?

s mac
02-10-2014, 02:07 PM
I'm not sure how many lbs, sure, fill it within an inch, when it's melted the level will be lower. May be 40-50lbs.

moose0011
02-10-2014, 05:45 PM
why did you say earlier to just buy one mold. I was going to get 2 to start. I figured that that would be easier to

s mac
02-10-2014, 06:46 PM
I'm just saying that once you get started casting you always want to try another mold LOL.

Trelan
02-10-2014, 07:14 PM
Moose

I am just getting started myself in the world of casting. Live in Jefferson City, but do have a brother that lives in Belton. Would be more than willing to work through a melt with you the next time that I am in town visiting him.

moose0011
02-10-2014, 08:37 PM
I'm just saying that once you get started casting you always want to try another mold LOL.

I apologize for some reason when I read that I was thinking one ingot mold haha.. my bad.. Yeah I have decided on the RCBS 405 gr FP with GC and thats it for a bit. I figure it will be easy enough it is a single cavity and it is iron. but I am along ways from ordering the mold. I am right now more worried about making ingots and things of that nature I was looking today at work I have 200 to 300 lbs setting there purely a guess.

s mac
02-10-2014, 08:44 PM
I apologize for some reason when I read that I was thinking one ingot mold haha.. my bad.. Yeah I have decided on the RCBS 405 gr FP with GC and thats it for a bit. I figure it will be easy enough it is a single cavity and it is iron. but I am along ways from ordering the mold. I am right now more worried about making ingots and things of that nature I was looking today at work
I have 200 to 300 lbs setting there purely a guess.


It's like gold.

moose0011
02-10-2014, 09:16 PM
Moose

I am just getting started myself in the world of casting. Live in Jefferson City, but do have a brother that lives in Belton. Would be more than willing to work through a melt with you the next time that I am in town visiting him.

That would be great I do not have a mold yet or handles. I am going Wednesday to get the Lyman Kit. I has the Lyman 4500 and the ladle and ingot mold I believe some mold. the lyman book and maybe a few other things like the 10 lb furnace which I agree is to small however it is just me starting out and to get the book and the lubrisizer is more than the kit is by itself. so i figure I will be well ahead. next will be my mold and gas checks. I picked up Some IMR4198 last week. only 2 lbs. I have changed my mind on my speed I believe 1800 fps is fast enough. PM message me and I will get you my info

moose0011
02-10-2014, 09:18 PM
It's like gold.

well we will see if it is or not So where at do you live in southwest MO. PM me if you don't want to put it on here

s mac
02-10-2014, 09:37 PM
PM sent.

220swiftfn
02-11-2014, 04:23 AM
just out of curiosity, I bought a 7 quart cast iron dutch oven. How many pounds do you think that will make in a batch. I understand you do not want to fill it completely full.. maybe and inch from the top or so... right... or wrong?

I have a six quart that'll hold about 150 lbs or so, but that's REALLY close to the top...... close enough, lead is @ 23lbs a quart.


Dan

10x
02-11-2014, 08:58 AM
One ingot mold is not enough. Some resort to cupcake pans.
I have ten or so ingot molds, I also have a cast iron ladle (about 150 years old) for pouring bearings that will hold over 5 lb of lead.
I use two folding steel saw horses with 10' - 2"x10" planks on the saw horses to hold the ingot molds. The front plank is for the empty molds, the rear plank is for the ingots.
Even then I have to wait for the pb in the ingot molds to solidify before dumping them.

I spray my ingot molds with Fluid film before putting them away - they will rust otherwise. I spray the cast iron pot with fluid film as well - it smokes off during the melt.
I do heat my ingot molds prior to making ingots. A propane tiger torch held in a workmate bench (hold the ingot mold with vice grips and use a glove). This makes a much more attractive ingot.

Once the ingot is dumped from the ingot mold I refill the mold. I use metal stamps to stamp them WW for wheel weight, P for pure lead, B for bullet lead. L for lynotype and M for monotype. This only takes about ten seconds per ingot and makes life much less confusing later when I decide to cast.

I have a cheap electronic (ebay) thermometer that I check the temperature of the melt in the ingot mold as it goes to solid. Pure lead will start to plate on to the thermocouple at 620 F, any alloy other than pure lead will remain a liquid and start to solidify at a lower point. (I only do this for lead that I believe is pure - I should start doing it for wheel weights and the other alloys - but those were melted and put into ingots long before I got the thermometer.

Flux your initial melt with sawdust or shavings - make sure you do not use wood shavings with resins, glues, or treated wood in it. A bag of pet bedding shavings (pine smells nice) will last a long long time. The cleaner you get the lead on the initial melt the less problem you will have when you use that lead to do a casting session.

Do get a cheap electronic thermometer with a K type thermocouple - they are about $20.00 on ebay (from china). Or get a more expensive one. The temperature that your alloy solidifies at will give you an indication of your alloy.

Do get a PID controller for your casting pot. I have the parts for one but have not made it up yet - from all reports it takes much of the guess work out of casting and is part of moving casting bullets from an art to a science where you reduce one more thing that can go wrong. The most common error most folks make is having their melt for their cast too cold when they start to cast . Alloys have a sweet spot temperature where they will cast well with a specific mold - that temperature will change with the bullet mold you use and as the bullet mold heats up. Sometimes that is the difference between casting acceptable bullets (with some rejects) and bullets that are exceptional.

And, never, ever hesitate to ask a question on this forum. I have learned a great deal in my years here - the bullet casters on this forum are a wealth of knowledge and are willing to share that knowledge.

- One last suggestion - when you do your melts never have the melting pot over 1/2 full of molten lead, and make sure that what ever is holding it over the heat source can take the weight - it would never do to have that collapse, or bump the pot and have it tip over. Also have some secure way to lift the pot when it is full - and a place to set that pot down that is safe.

Clean pb in an ingot will go a long way to reducing any problems you have casting.

moose0011
02-11-2014, 09:41 AM
I have a six quart that'll hold about 150 lbs or so, but that's REALLY close to the top...... close enough, lead is @ 23lbs a quart.


Dan Thanks Dan that gives me a good Idea.

moose0011
02-11-2014, 09:48 AM
One ingot mold is not enough. Some resort to cupcake pans.
I have ten or so ingot molds, I also have a cast iron ladle (about 150 years old) for pouring bearings that will hold over 5 lb of lead.
I use two folding steel saw horses with 10' - 2"x10" planks on the saw horses to hold the ingot molds. The front plank is for the empty molds, the rear plank is for the ingots.
Even then I have to wait for the pb in the ingot molds to solidify before dumping them.

I spray my ingot molds with Fluid film before putting them away - they will rust otherwise. I spray the cast iron pot with fluid film as well - it smokes off during the melt.
I do heat my ingot molds prior to making ingots. A propane tiger torch held in a workmate bench (hold the ingot mold with vice grips and use a glove). This makes a much more attractive ingot.

Once the ingot is dumped from the ingot mold I refill the mold. I use metal stamps to stamp them WW for wheel weight, P for pure lead, B for bullet lead. L for lynotype and M for monotype. This only takes about ten seconds per ingot and makes life much less confusing later when I decide to cast.

I have a cheap electronic (ebay) thermometer that I check the temperature of the melt in the ingot mold as it goes to solid. Pure lead will start to plate on to the thermocouple at 620 F, any alloy other than pure lead will remain a liquid and start to solidify at a lower point. (I only do this for lead that I believe is pure - I should start doing it for wheel weights and the other alloys - but those were melted and put into ingots long before I got the thermometer.

Flux your initial melt with sawdust or shavings - make sure you do not use wood shavings with resins, glues, or treated wood in it. A bag of pet bedding shavings (pine smells nice) will last a long long time. The cleaner you get the lead on the initial melt the less problem you will have when you use that lead to do a casting session.

Do get a cheap electronic thermometer with a K type thermocouple - they are about $20.00 on ebay (from china). Or get a more expensive one. The temperature that your alloy solidifies at will give you an indication of your alloy.

Do get a PID controller for your casting pot. I have the parts for one but have not made it up yet - from all reports it takes much of the guess work out of casting and is part of moving casting bullets from an art to a science where you reduce one more thing that can go wrong. The most common error most folks make is having their melt for their cast too cold when they start to cast . Alloys have a sweet spot temperature where they will cast well with a specific mold - that temperature will change with the bullet mold you use and as the bullet mold heats up. Sometimes that is the difference between casting acceptable bullets (with some rejects) and bullets that are exceptional.

And, never, ever hesitate to ask a question on this forum. I have learned a great deal in my years here - the bullet casters on this forum are a wealth of knowledge and are willing to share that knowledge.

- One last suggestion - when you do your melts never have the melting pot over 1/2 full of molten lead, and make sure that what ever is holding it over the heat source can take the weight - it would never do to have that collapse, or bump the pot and have it tip over. Also have some secure way to lift the pot when it is full - and a place to set that pot down that is safe.

Clean pb in an ingot will go a long way to reducing any problems you have casting.

What is a PID controller? when you say pb are you talking about pb blaster? And Thanks for all the help there. That was quite a bit

whisler
02-11-2014, 09:10 PM
Pb is the chemical symbol for lead, PID is an electronic controller used to control pot temperature.

moose0011
02-12-2014, 09:53 PM
Ok another question.. I have heard all these different numbers of BNH that the lead is going to be. At what hardness does the lead really get hard to expand lets say on a deer something soft. And at what number does it really turn into a Solid?

Wolfer
02-12-2014, 10:10 PM
On a thread on this page I just saw a formula. Expansion = velocity @ bhn x 100

Correction it's in the hunting section. Woody

Bzcraig
02-12-2014, 11:42 PM
Pictures? It is great you are asking so many questions and able to jump in with both feet! Do not underestimate the power of this addiction, your basement is going to be seeing you more often.

moose0011
02-13-2014, 11:59 PM
Pictures? It is great you are asking so many questions and able to jump in with both feet! Do not underestimate the power of this addiction, your basement is going to be seeing you more often.

My basement sees me alot as is.. That is where I refinish stocks and whatnot as well as all my reloading. I have also put a small mancave down there somehow..

moose0011
02-14-2014, 12:16 AM
On a thread on this page I just saw a formula. Expansion = velocity @ bhn x 100

Correction it's in the hunting section. Woody

Ok well I am good at math that is not a problem. The problem is when I come up with a number and have no idea what it means?


The reason for asking this I have read lots of different things and alot of things remain consistent and some do not.. but if pure lead is 4 or 5 bnh and I have heard my mix will be everything from 9 to 15 bnh. Ok I want mine to expand and I want to be able to push it lol basically I would like to have my cake and eat it too. so I have read alot about paper patching. which has made my wheels in my head turn more and more. Like can you paper patch a bullet that has grease grooves? or does it have to have the smooth sides? that one has really been bugging me. I would like to paper patch some bullets for hunting and what not but none of the molds are what I am looking for. I know I will start out with that RCBS 405 FP with GC but I wondered if I could also paper patch it? or is that the Beauty of Casting you can pretty much use your imagination. I realize I would have to size it down to say a 451 and roll it up in paper with 2 raps to 460 or whatever my gun prefers. But can anyone shed some light on this subject for me, and or provide a link or some documents to read on it. I would also like to hear some opinions and experiences whether they were good or bad, I am always testing things. And also I might Add to everyone.. I really appreciate you guys all being so helpful and trying.

moose0011
02-14-2014, 12:50 AM
another ? What do you guys think of NOE molds?

AlaskanGuy
02-14-2014, 01:32 AM
Noe molds are great moose.... Plain and simple truth...

As afr as paper patching, you can paper patch a bullet just fine that has greese groves... Just dont need any grease.....

Looks like you are having a blast.... You check out the stickey under gunsmithing about stock refinishing???. There are a couple that I did in there... Here is the link ...http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?227271-GunStock-Re-Finishing-The-Roger-Method-explained-with-Pics

See, we dont JUST cast boolits around here.... Why dont you show off some of your work in there... :)

Bzcraig
02-14-2014, 04:08 AM
My basement sees me alot as is.. That is where I refinish stocks and whatnot as well as all my reloading. I have also put a small mancave down there somehow..

I'm jealous all I have is the garage and have to share that with wifey's car

moose0011
02-14-2014, 09:55 AM
Noe molds are great moose.... Plain and simple truth...

As afr as paper patching, you can paper patch a bullet just fine that has greese groves... Just dont need any grease.....

Looks like you are having a blast.... You check out the stickey under gunsmithing about stock refinishing???. There are a couple that I did in there... Here is the link ...http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?227271-GunStock-Re-Finishing-The-Roger-Method-explained-with-Pics

See, we dont JUST cast boolits around here.... Why dont you show off some of your work in there... :)

HAHA thats funny I read somewhere that you can't paper patch a grease grooved bullet and I kinda found other wize in other places. I was going to try it anyways but I wondered. Next ? what if the bullet has a Gas Check. do you just put the gas Check on or don't worry about it.

As far as showing some pics. I guess I can. I might just try to load them up on here. This sounds bad I haven't taken many pics so I will have to take pictures of them over the next week or so. I don't know if I will post them there or just post them on this thread right here. Some of my pics are just experiments....

moose0011
02-14-2014, 09:58 AM
I'm jealous all I have is the garage and have to share that with wifey's car

I let my wife park in the Garage if a Storm is coming or if it is going to be super super cold.. Other than that.. Nope. I don't like cleaning up the salt all over the floor from our roads. I also don't like her to park to close to the house because I open the door of the Garage and blow a fan out the door when I spray with my Hvlp Gun to do finishes or paint or whatever. I don't want to get it on the Car.

s mac
02-14-2014, 10:00 AM
Moose, there is a subforum right here with lot's of info on paperpatching. Read the stickies.

quilbilly
02-14-2014, 01:16 PM
Hello Moose, Wish I had seen your question earlier.
Your original post said you had lots of lead shot mixed in. I have found that lead shot is usually too hard for my purposes and is quite brittle but it is great when mixed with pure soft lead for controlling the hardness of your alloy. Currently I am using 60% pure and 40% hard chilled shot (a little tin added as well) for most of my target shooting but it is still a little hard for getting expansion when hunting.
I would recommend you separate out some of that shot rather than melting it all together and experiment with any of the soft pure you might be also able to separate out. This is a little like alchemy where you turn lead to gold (a good alloy is gold at the target range).

moose0011
02-14-2014, 02:15 PM
Moose, there is a subforum right here with lot's of info on paperpatching. Read the stickies.

I have used the Search bar up above on the right and not found alot? I google it and it will take me to a thread on this forum. that I couldn't find with the search bar.

moose0011
02-14-2014, 02:18 PM
Hello Moose, Wish I had seen your question earlier.
Your original post said you had lots of lead shot mixed in. I have found that lead shot is usually too hard for my purposes and is quite brittle but it is great when mixed with pure soft lead for controlling the hardness of your alloy. Currently I am using 60% pure and 40% hard chilled shot (a little tin added as well) for most of my target shooting but it is still a little hard for getting expansion when hunting.
I would recommend you separate out some of that shot rather than melting it all together and experiment with any of the soft pure you might be also able to separate out. This is a little like alchemy where you turn lead to gold (a good alloy is gold at the target range).

here is a question for you.. you say hard chilled shot.. are you saying to chill your shot ingot? If so once you melt it won't it just get the same properties it had before? I would like to have some expansion that is for sure. Howeve I realize it being a 458 I don't really need it. But I don't need a lot of things. I want it...

tcbnick
02-14-2014, 02:29 PM
You probably will get all the info that you need to get started right here, and I'm no pro at casting, but I do live about 15 min east of KC and would be happy to help you in your casting and smelting. If that is something you would be interested in?

moose0011
02-14-2014, 02:41 PM
You probably will get all the info that you need to get started right here, and I'm no pro at casting, but I do live about 15 min east of KC and would be happy to help you in your casting and smelting. If that is something you would be interested in?

I will PM you..

s mac
02-14-2014, 03:27 PM
I have used the Search bar up above on the right and not found alot? I google it and it will take me to a thread on this forum. that I couldn't find with the search bar.

No need to use a search function, just scroll down on the Forum page to Smokeless paperpatching.

moose0011
02-14-2014, 03:51 PM
No need to use a search function, just scroll down on the Forum page to Smokeless paperpatching.

You just opened up a Whole New World... I hadn't saw that place yet. Thanks

moose0011
02-14-2014, 06:42 PM
? If your using an alloy is a HP pointless? I know alot of people hate alloy HP boolits on here. However I am a Varminter and I like doing it long range. So please forgive me if you hate them I am just trying to learn.. but if your alloy is to hard it will not expand or anything you just loose weight correct? and Flat points are Very destructive as they drive through and animal..?

Wolfer
02-14-2014, 09:44 PM
If you start talking HPs on here you need to break out the popcorn if you like popcorn while you watch the fights. Strong opinions on both sides.
With my alloy at my velocity with my hunting style they work great. My 311041 has two pins. One is small and 1/4" long for deer hunting. The other is huge and goes to the crimp grove. It's for coyote hunting and I want it to blow apart on impact.
My alloy is too malleable right now. It just flattens out and blows a big hole out the other side. I've been going to pour some harder and push them faster but haven't got around to it yet. I'm bad to not fix anything that's not completely broke. Woody

moose0011
02-14-2014, 10:11 PM
If you start talking HPs on here you need to break out the popcorn if you like popcorn while you watch the fights. Strong opinions on both sides.
With my alloy at my velocity with my hunting style they work great. My 311041 has two pins. One is small and 1/4" long for deer hunting. The other is huge and goes to the crimp grove. It's for coyote hunting and I want it to blow apart on impact.
My alloy is too malleable right now. It just flattens out and blows a big hole out the other side. I've been going to pour some harder and push them faster but haven't got around to it yet. I'm bad to not fix anything that's not completely broke. Woody


Thank you Wolfer.. But I know there are all kinds of opinions. I don't need opinions.. I read one guy on here posted a question about HP vs FP and one guy wrote basically that he looses respect because someone because of the bullet they choose. I was like wow. We are all on the same side here. so I am honestly asking if the hollow point is to hard it will just punch through and not expand and break up right? I would be interested in your mold however for my 06.. who makes that mold and are you paper patching? what is hardness of your lead or alloy? also at what speed are you pushing it. What is the twist of your rifle?

yman
02-14-2014, 10:42 PM
Welcome to the wonderful world of casting Moose. This is a great site with lots of info. I started casting myself some 10yrs ago. Its alot like reloading, it looks and sounds alot harder than it really is. I know this, its alot fun, I never get tired of dropping out some nice bullets. I did notice only one person hit on safty. Eye protection,long sleeve shirt,jeans at least,carhart pants better,and boots, heavy leather gloves and an escape route. I was sitting down melting over the pot and a drop of sweat hit the pot,it was like the forth of july with hot lead. When I jumped to get out of the way I ran over my box fan. Ah the devil is in the details. Well heres hoping you cast many a good bullet.

moose0011
02-14-2014, 10:46 PM
Welcome to the wonderful world of casting Moose. This is a great site with lots of info. I started casting myself some 10yrs ago. Its alot like reloading, it looks and sounds alot harder than it really is. I know this, its alot fun, I never get tired of dropping out some nice bullets. I did notice only one person hit on safty. Eye protection,long sleeve shirt,jeans at least,carhart pants better,and boots, heavy leather gloves and an escape route. I was sitting down melting over the pot and a drop of sweat hit the pot,it was like the forth of july with hot lead. When I jumped to get out of the way I ran over my box fan. Ah the devil is in the details. Well heres hoping you cast many a good bullet.

thanks you sir.. I would hope everyone doing this would be smart enough to realize water vapor and hot metal are bad. I couldn't agree more with an escape route I think that is often overlooked on alot of things. I believe it is that and complacency that really bite people hard.. Thank you for the tip. I hope other newbies read this as well..

Wolfer
02-14-2014, 10:52 PM
My 30 cal is a Lyman 311041 it drops at .309 I wouldent mind if it was a little bigger but it shoots good in all my rifles. I sent it to Eric at hollow point mold service to have one cavity HP with two pins.
My alloy is pretty soft, about 10 bhn and I shoot these at 1700+ in my 30-06,30-30 and 30-40 Krag. If bone is hit the HP certainly isn't necessary but it gives me a little more confidence if bone is not hit or at extended ranges.
I don't get the catastrophic damage I see other people here get. I believe because I'm probably running 300 fps slower. I'm not sure I just know they work good for me and I'll continue to use them.

I think it would be difficult to get a HP hard enough that it wouldent open if pushed at suitable velocity. I've never shot Linotype but I understand it's bad to shatter when cast solid. I suspect with my large HP pushed above 2000 fps it would be a coyote killing machine. Not a fur gun though.
My rifles are all 10" twist. I haven't had any luck paper patching. I believe it because I take a boolit that fits, wrap it with paper and size it to the same size it was. I can assure you this won't work.
I do have good luck with paper patch in my muzzle loader. But my boolit casts .499 and my groove is .5035
Some day I'm going to get me a correct sized mold and give PP a serious go.
These are just my opinions and there worth about what they cost. Woody

Wolfer
02-14-2014, 11:02 PM
Welcome to the wonderful world of casting Moose. This is a great site with lots of info. I started casting myself some 10yrs ago. Its alot like reloading, it looks and sounds alot harder than it really is. I know this, its alot fun, I never get tired of dropping out some nice bullets. I did notice only one person hit on safty. Eye protection,long sleeve shirt,jeans at least,carhart pants better,and boots, heavy leather gloves and an escape route. I was sitting down melting over the pot and a drop of sweat hit the pot,it was like the forth of july with hot lead. When I jumped to get out of the way I ran over my box fan. Ah the devil is in the details. Well heres hoping you cast many a good bullet.

One time when I was smelting some WWs and the temp was well below freezing I set the cold muffin pan on the frozen floor, grabbed my pot with the handle and a pair of pliers and started pouring. I guess it condensated because all of a sudden it looked like Christmas.

Bent over like I was the pot was in front of my face? It was about the only spot on me that wasn't covered in lead.

In not really joking with my signature.

moose0011
02-15-2014, 07:03 PM
One time when I was smelting some WWs and the temp was well below freezing I set the cold muffin pan on the frozen floor, grabbed my pot with the handle and a pair of pliers and started pouring. I guess it condensated because all of a sudden it looked like Christmas.

Bent over like I was the pot was in front of my face? It was about the only spot on me that wasn't covered in lead.

In not really joking with my signature.

How bad where you hurt?

AABEN
02-15-2014, 07:37 PM
I would only go half full that way it will be good to carry. That will make a lot of bullets. Lyman and LEE makes mold for your to make the ingots.

Wolfer
02-15-2014, 08:14 PM
It was cold and I was dressed for it. Wasn't hurt at all.

moose0011
02-16-2014, 06:49 PM
That is great to hear... And Thanks AABEN I have found me some ingot molds.

moose0011
02-16-2014, 08:53 PM
Ok I was just reading about a 720 LFNGC cast bullets. I guess it is a 720 Grain Cast Boolit.. has anyone hard of this or know of the mold or where to get it.. curiosity is killing me...

moose0011
02-16-2014, 08:55 PM
O sorry and it is for 458 caliber

Harter66
02-21-2014, 11:37 AM
Sounds custom to me. I did read a post about an adjustable mould but I don't recall where it was an exeriment to see just how heavy that particular rifle would shoot. It was very low velocity also as I recall. It was of interest at the time as I've had and on-off romance w/the 45 cal rifles ,I just haven't found the right donor or deal on the parts or rifle yet. Soon though that 45 pistol cartridge Mauser will happen into my lap.
458-720 Lead Flat Nose Gas Check (LFNGC)

woodbutcher
02-21-2014, 09:12 PM
:) Hi Moose.Welcome aboard.Still learning,even though I have been casting since I was about 8 years old.Under supervision of course.Started with fishing gear and then onto boolits.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

Chapo
02-21-2014, 09:19 PM
Good luck moose