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orisolo
01-26-2014, 03:56 AM
Hi Guys,

I'm writing "basic reloading tips" to post on my website.
I wish to help the new reloaders and maybe refresh the seasoned ones with good basic tips.
This tips will not teach you how to reloaded but I'm hoping to give people enough basic knowledge to know what they should look for, as knowing the "question" is 50% of the answer.

Here are the basic tips i wrote regarding the brass, I'm missing good tips regarding the powder and bullet seating/crimping.
Please help me in rewriting adding editing and or deleting parts of this text.
Thank you in advance



brass reloading tips:


1. You must inspect the case for any flaws dents and cracks, while small flaws are OK, Crack cases and badly bent cases should not be used, as a rule if you are not sure DO NOT use it!


2. All "new" fired cases to your gun must be fully resized to bring them to SAMMI specs. Resizing is done with any "Full Length" sizing die on a press of your choice


3. Case length must not be longer then SAMMI specs. if your case is longer then Sammi specs its a good practice to trim it to Sammi Specs (MINUS) -0.010 or -0.020
(if your case is to long there is a danger that cases mouth will "pinch" the bullet while in the chamber and when fired the pinched bullet will not move forward, In this scenario it could cost you fingers and eyes when the gun blows in your face !!!)


4. Military brass has a crimp ring holding the primer to the primer pocket. This crimp must be removed so you can insert a new Primer. This is called swaging or decapping the primer pocket, There are many ways and tools to help with this task.


5. Always test your brass and loaded rounds in a case Guage tool like Wilson, Dillon, Lyman , Etc...
Most rifle brass is "necked brass", the "case shoulders" must be in place when you are resizing your brass,


Leave the shoulders to high and the case will stick backward, in catastrophe scenario this will prevent your bolt from locking = guns blow in your face.


push the shoulders to low and the case mouth will be too "forward", case neck can pinch the bullet in the chamber = gun blowup in your face.


Always use caution and best practice when dealing with guns and ammo,
Google is your friend! YouTube is your body!
always search, watch, read and learn before attempting something new.


Have fun reloading :)

Maven
01-26-2014, 12:27 PM
Here is an edited and amended version:

1. Inspect the case for any flaws dents and cracks, while small flaws are OK, split and badly bent cases should not be used. As a rule if you are not sure, DO NOT use it!

2. All "new" fired cases to your gun must be fully resized* to bring them to SAAMI specs. Resizing is done with a "Full Length" sizing die of the proper caliber on a press of your choice.

3. Case length must not be longer then SAAMI specs. If your case is longer then SAAMI specs, it is a necessary to trim it to those specs (minus -0.010 or -0.020) If your case is too long there is a danger that cases mouth will "pinch" the bullet while in the chamber, raising pressure significantly. When fired the pinched bullet will not move forward. In this scenario it could cost you fingers and eyes when the gun blows in your face!)

4. Military brass has a crimp ring holding the primer in the primer pocket. This crimp must be removed so you can insert a new primer. This requires chamfering or swaging the primer pocket before a new primer can be added. There are many ways and tools to help with this task.

5. Always test your brass and loaded rounds in a case gauge tool such as those offered by Wilson, Dillon, Lyman, et al. Most rifle brass has a visible shoulder, which must be set back slightly when you resize your brass. A case gauge will immediately show you know whether the shoulder has been correctly set back. Leaving the shoulder too far forward will result in a round that will not chamber and prevent your bolt from locking (gun blows up). Pushing the shoulder back too far will cause the case neck to pinch the bullet in the chamber, raising pressure dangerously.

Always use caution and best practice when dealing with guns and ammo. Always search, watch, read, and learn before trying a new reloading procedure or “shortcut!”




*Note to OP: You need to explain what FL sizing actually does.

Blacksmith
01-26-2014, 03:02 PM
You might want to point out that a good quality reloading manual will explain what to look for to identify a damaged case and is a reference that can be used to determine the trim to length that SAAMI specifies.

WallyM3
01-26-2014, 03:08 PM
Just a couple of suggestions.

Para 1: Delete "You must...".
Insert "," after flaws.
Substitute "." for the "," after cracks. Capitalize "W" in while.
Insert "," after Rule.

(Will proceed if encouraged.) LOL

462
01-26-2014, 04:15 PM
2. All "new" fired cases to your gun must be fully resized to bring them to SAMMI specs. Resizing is done with any "Full Length" sizing die on a press of your choice

No mention of neck sizing?

Why not just re-word what has already been published in the many reloading manuals? That way you will know that what you put on your site is correct and safe.

orisolo
01-26-2014, 04:39 PM
Here is an edited and amended version:

1. Inspect the case for any flaws dents and cracks, while small flaws are OK, split and badly bent cases should not be used. As a rule if you are not sure, DO NOT use it!

2. All "new" fired cases to your gun must be fully resized* to bring them to SAAMI specs. Resizing is done with a "Full Length" sizing die of the proper caliber on a press of your choice.

3. Case length must not be longer then SAAMI specs. If your case is longer then SAAMI specs, it is a necessary to trim it to those specs (minus -0.010 or -0.020) If your case is too long there is a danger that cases mouth will "pinch" the bullet while in the chamber, raising pressure significantly. When fired the pinched bullet will not move forward. In this scenario it could cost you fingers and eyes when the gun blows in your face!)

4. Military brass has a crimp ring holding the primer in the primer pocket. This crimp must be removed so you can insert a new primer. This requires chamfering or swaging the primer pocket before a new primer can be added. There are many ways and tools to help with this task.

5. Always test your brass and loaded rounds in a case gauge tool such as those offered by Wilson, Dillon, Lyman, et al. Most rifle brass has a visible shoulder, which must be set back slightly when you resize your brass. A case gauge will immediately show you know whether the shoulder has been correctly set back. Leaving the shoulder too far forward will result in a round that will not chamber and prevent your bolt from locking (gun blows up). Pushing the shoulder back too far will cause the case neck to pinch the bullet in the chamber, raising pressure dangerously.

Always use caution and best practice when dealing with guns and ammo. Always search, watch, read, and learn before trying a new reloading procedure or “shortcut!”




*Note to OP: You need to explain what FL sizing actually does.

Hi Maven,
Thank you for the help.
I'm taking notes of all suggestions.

orisolo
01-26-2014, 04:40 PM
You might want to point out that a good quality reloading manual will explain what to look for to identify a damaged case and is a reference that can be used to determine the trim to length that SAAMI specifies.

Blacksmith,
Thank you for your post.
Ill make sure to add the reloading manual.

orisolo
01-26-2014, 04:42 PM
Just a couple of suggestions.

Para 1: Delete "You must...".
Insert "," after flaws.
Substitute "." for the "," after cracks. Capitalize "W" in while.
Insert "," after Rule.

(Will proceed if encouraged.) LOL

WallyM3,
Thank you for your notes.
Grammar was always a "weak" point for me. :roll:

WallyM3
01-26-2014, 04:43 PM
And content is my weak point.

orisolo
01-26-2014, 04:44 PM
2. All "new" fired cases to your gun must be fully resized to bring them to SAMMI specs. Resizing is done with any "Full Length" sizing die on a press of your choice

No mention of neck sizing?

Why not just re-word what has already been published in the many reloading manuals? That way you will know that what you put on your site is correct and safe.

462,
You are right, I should write about the necks sizing die.
I will incorporate it in the revised Ver.
Thanks

orisolo
01-26-2014, 04:47 PM
Guys,
Thank you for all the help extended.
Please continue to add,change,edit,delete.
I will post in the evening a revised ver. with all the correction and additions.
I promised the little one we will go shooting his savage 22 rifle today and he is on my tail since the morning.

All your help is highly appreciated.

ACrowe25
02-05-2014, 10:57 PM
...YouTube is your body!

I'm assuming this should read buddy? I'm not sure. But overall a great idea Ori.

archmaker
02-05-2014, 11:06 PM
If in doubt about the quality or strength of the case, discard. Is not worth the problems that may happen or the worry it will cause.

I try to make it point in everything related to reloading to load cases so that I have 'no worries' . . . is there a possible double charge, I pull it, if I am not sure of the powder charge, I check it. You should have no 'doubts' about your reloaded round, if so take steps to remove the worry and make sure it doesn't happen again.

David2011
02-07-2014, 12:10 AM
Ori,

"5. Always test your brass and loaded rounds in a case Guage tool like Wilson, Dillon, Lyman , Etc...
Most rifle brass is "necked brass", the "case shoulders" must be in place when you are resizing your brass, "

If I were writing a manual I would expand the detail on the discussion of case gages. Pistol gages are to make sure loaded ammo will chamber in a SAAMI minimum dimension chamber. Rifle case gages are for setting up the sizing die in the press. Without it you're only guessing that the cases are properly sized and the shoulder is where it should be.

Best wishes on your endeavor.

David