RB pouring

[charger 1]

As some may recall I had to ladle out of the lee pot to get the 577611 minie to pour worth a darn. I got that RCBS 562 RB commin. Is that going to be the same deal? Has anyone hade RB mold fill probs or can I go back to bottom pouring that fella?

[38-55]

Charger 1,
Iv'e never had any problem with casting balls out of a bottom pour... Everything has to be hot and take your time opening the sprue... the big balls stay soft a long time after the sprue has hardened.... Take your time and weigh the suckers to make sure you don't have any air pockest and you'll be fine..
I cast lyman's 575213 minie and it can really be a pain in the rear.... The phase of the moon has to be right and the lead has to be just so with the flux and..... it's just a pain to cast. But once it's up and running it makes great minie's and it's well worth the effort....
Hope this helps..
Calvin

[crowbeaner]

HEE HEE. Yeah, I've had my problems with RB moulds. Moon phase, month, date, SWMBO having PMS, melt, alloy, wind blowing in the wrong direction etc. You just have to do your best. I ladle pour all mine with the Mag 20 on "9" just like I do with my SG slugs, but honestly I think the SG slugs are easier sometimes. Like has been said be careful when they are dropped onto your soft cloth(I use a pair of Levis that don't fit because of their antigun policy) and drop them so they don't contact each other. I roll them down into a crease when the drop zone gets full. Just pour carefully and get your rythym down. CB.

[Saint]

Maybe a little late but I'll put in my 2 cents for anybody that comes looking here in the future. I have found RB moulds to be a PITA to get good fill out. Here is what I have noticed in my experience. RB moulds need to run really hot compared to those of our smokeless friends. Iron moulds take a lot longer to heat up than aluminum moulds but require a lot less heat to maintain cast quality. Aluminum moulds heat up very quickly but require higher temperatures to maintain the cast quality. So in short for iron moulds start off with the pot cranked all the way till the balls just start to frost a little then back it down. For aluminum moulds it may not be necessary to crank the temperature but it will need to be a little hotter on average. This is my personal experience but casting techniques are as unique as fingerprints so if you see a suggestion anywhere on this board that interests you then give it a try as long as it is safe. You never know what kind of strange ideas might work for you.