Looking for advice for a rifle cast Boolits

[tayous1]

I have been thinking of getting in to casting my own rifle Boolits for 223 and 30 caliber both semi auto first I was told that cast rounds do not do well in semi auto rifle because the feed ramp miss shapes the Boolits like to hear what you all have to say about that. Next I was told that a cast Boolits were only good for target shooting and would not make good hunting rounds on game like deer?

Truth I'm looking for a good all round bullet or Boolit that would be great target and hunting! Jack of all trades master of none type I know both are going to have there pros and cons but want to here what you all have to say! If I can cast a 224. Boolits that work as well as the 55gr JSP I'm looking to buy well finding scrap lead around me is easy I have a whole hillside that has been being shot into since 1880 near me I have come away with around 150 lbs of lead from there in the past 2 years without really even trying or even picking up lead after the range each time I went. Thanks for the help and advice!

[runfiverun]

something with a flat point will do what you want.
regarding your first paragraph...
don't know who you been listening to but they are umm fulla it.

[tayous1]

Thats what I thought so that is why I came here to ask! I had so many people tell me cast HP were snake oil and did not work! It was not until I shot can came here to see how many people talked about pistol HP and I saw how well they did on targets!

Have any 223 or 308 molds that you suggested in mind? I know there are a lot of molds out there do you recommend any?

[HARRYMPOPE]

I have shot 30 calibers semi auto's with cast with good success. I have used 740 Rem 30-06,Siaga AK 308 and FN FAL 308.All of them I used 180g bullets cast of scrap(16-18 BHN) and driven to 1800-1900 fps with H4895.The FN and Saiga shot under 2" at 100 and sometimes much better and fewer times much worse.The AK's and SKS shoot very well with lighter 160's and 1680 or 2400.I have shot FN bullets in my semis but some did not fell well for me. I haven't shot near as with much cast in 223 semi auto,just enough to find out they work fine.A buddy has killed about 30 deer with a 180g FP bullet of wheel weight driven to 1800.The bullets he has recovered look like nosler partitions peeled back. For 22's and hunting I like linotype and a HP style bullet at 2100-2200.they expand rapidly beyond belief. These are in my 22-250 bolt guns though.

[Echo]

I just cast up a batch of Lyman 311672's - GCRN 160-grainers. Sweet looking boolit. I have loaded some with 2400 powder, and will see how they shoot within a couple of days. I have high hopes.
I haven't cast any for my .223 yet, although I have a couple of molds. Will get around to it sometime. A Lee Bator mold and a Lyman 225415 (I think), both 2-bangers.

[runfiverun]

http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=31-165A-D.png
this one works in my 308's like butter and feeds perfectly in my m-14.
look down in the vendors section at the HM-2 mold it's for the ar rifles and JT should be doing another run pretty soon, noe and miha both do good molds that will work for you also.

casting for the semi-auto rifles and getting good accuracy at a decent velocity isn't easy but it certainly is doable.
you just have to pay attention to the details.

[Blammer]

can't say much about the 22 cal, don't cast for that one.

for the 30 cal in semi auto, I would recommend the 311290 or 311291, they should both work in semi auto and both be decent for hunting.

[Larry Gibson]

In the long run you will probably end up with 2 moulds for each caliber; one for target and one for hunting, especially with the .223.

However, based on your question of one mould to do both I suggest;

The Lyman 225415 or the RCBS 22-55-SP.

For the .30 cal gas gun I suggest the Lyman 311041 or the Lee C309-170-F

Larry Gibson

[bhn22]

Yeah, it sounds like your original information source needs to build up his savvy a bit. While I'd suggest harder bullets for the 223, individual rifles vary, and only experimentation will tell you what will work best in your combination. As for 30 cal, cast bullets have been used in semi-autos since they first came out. There are an almost breathtaking number of possibilities in both areas. I'm going to suggest you sit down with a cup of coffee, and read through some of the "stickies" at the beginning of each board to get a feel for what others are doing. Then ask questions! We love to talk, although some of us are a lot better at it that others, especially me! :bigsmyl2:

[tayous1]

Thanks not worried as much about the 224 as the 30 caliber.

[Wayne Smith]

Thanks not worried as much about the 224 as the 30 caliber.

Then you are good to go! There are literally reams of information and hundreds of boolit molds you can use for experimentation. The only limits are your time and budget.

Get a copy of the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, v3 (out of print) if you can find one, and v4 currently. They are both good and different. Down at the bottom of this page you will find a link for the LASCUS site. Go there and read too. You will find a lot of information about alloy and its variations and use.

[tayous1]

Like I said I'm new to rifle casting is it better to have the heavier bullet for the 30 cal? What are the advantages of having a 220gr or 170gr over a 160gr? Other then just having a heavier boolits? Also if anyone knows how well would a cast round work in the semi auto if HP?

[runfiverun]

wellll they work fine.
you do have to zero in on what you are gonna do with the round, hunting, target shooting, velocity.
you can generally compromise a bit on either end but you become a bit limited by the semi-auto, it's first priority is 100% function.
the weight thing is because of the limited velocity, it is absolutely the best way to retain down range energy.
it's length however can affect the rifles feeding so you end up compromising again for function.

[blikseme300]

I took this buck last weekend with a NOE 316-155G-FN sized down to .310 and fired from an AR-15 in 300blk. Neck shot and dropped like a sack of potatoes. Range was just over 165 yards as per laser range finder. I have taken a number of feral hogs using this same boolit/rifle combo so to the nay-sayers I challenge you to wiggle out of results such as this.

Personally I would not hunt deer with a .223 using cast or j-word as in the past I had poor results with it and the .222 on deer sized game. I do shoot cast .223 in an AR-15 and it was a frustrating journey to get it to work right. I use this caliber in cast for paper punching only.

94605

[tayous1]

wellll they work fine.
you do have to zero in on what you are gonna do with the round, hunting, target shooting, velocity.
you can generally compromise a bit on either end but you become a bit limited by the semi-auto, it's first priority is 100% function.
the weight thing is because of the limited velocity, it is absolutely the best way to retain down range energy.
it's length however can affect the rifles feeding so you end up compromising again for function.

That's a far question Like you said 100% function is tops next would be a hunting round as I'm not going to use this boolite for hard core target shooting just a plinking range round. Battle field MOA is about what I'm looking for as this will be replacing the FMJ 308 win rounds that I shoot. At $0.59 loaded or $0.21 per FMJ bullet this will save me a lot of money and allow me to shoot a lot more.

[runfiverun]

look at the mold I suggested.
it is what I use, like I said it feeds in my m-14 and I can push it pretty hard in my bolt guns with no problems.
you do have to pay attention to the molds temp and alloy selection when casting with it.
this allows you to barely scuff size when seating the gas check, and keeps the nose diameter under control.
but the flat nose makes it a good hunting boolit choice.

[Jack Stanley]

I'm with Blammer and Larry , it's pretty hard to go wrong with the 311291 in proper dimensions or the Lee 170 flat nose . I never tried making either work in a semi-auto but if you work on it I bet you can .

I have been fooling around with .22 cast for a while now . I think the RCBS 22-55-SP is one of the easiest to make work . I also use the RCBS 22-55-FN and the Lyman 225462 , different rifles like different things . Use good alloy , be consistant in casting and ruthless in inspection and the small bores aren't to bad . For really low velocity close in practice I even use the scraps that don't pass inspection for high velocity ammo .

Jack

[tayous1]

Emailed Erik today he said he is setting up a 30 caliber HP mold he did not saw in what weight but it looks like I'm going to have to buy more then one mold!:grin:

[tayous1]

I think what I need to do is buy some boolits first and see what my STG-58 likes before I go all out! Anyone know of a good place to buy boolits? I saw Montana Bullet Works has a lot of good rounds anyone use them? I feel I need to slow down a little just sent my money a week ago for my first custom mold MP 452-374 4cav, brass Hollow point mold. Have not gotten it in the mail yet but had to go out and buy a lube sizer some new 45acp dies (old ones rusted don't want to talk about that.) spent an arm and a leg in the past week sad part is that I'm going to have to wait until it warms up to cast!!

North Dakota winters are not the best to melt just about anything in! Might open a window in the basement and cast a few just because I can't wait!! Wife is getting on me to buy a 9mm HP cast for her.

[leadman]

Since you are going with a luber/sizer you can water quench your boolits right from the mold and end up with a harder boolit but one that will stay together and expand some. If you do not get suffecient hardness with your range scrap alloy just add some shotgun shot to the mix and try again. They arsenic is what is needed for good hardening.
I have been using the Lee 150gr, 180gr, and 200gr 30 caliber boolits from their molds and so far the 200 gr is the most accurate. I get many groups that are moa and most are under 1 1/2" at 100 yards. These molds are inexpensive and are worth more than Lee charges for them. The occassional issue crops up but most of the time is easily corrected. If sent back to Lee they take care of it. I have had similar issues with molds costing 5 times as much or more so it is not always you get what you pay for.
There are a couple of vendors here that sell gas checks at reasonable prices.

[tayous1]

Since you are going with a luber/sizer you can water quench your boolits right from the mold and end up with a harder boolit but one that will stay together and expand some. If you do not get suffecient hardness with your range scrap alloy just add some shotgun shot to the mix and try again. They arsenic is what is needed for good hardening.
I have been using the Lee 150gr, 180gr, and 200gr 30 caliber boolits from their molds and so far the 200 gr is the most accurate. I get many groups that are moa and most are under 1 1/2" at 100 yards. These molds are inexpensive and are worth more than Lee charges for them. The occassional issue crops up but most of the time is easily corrected. If sent back to Lee they take care of it. I have had similar issues with molds costing 5 times as much or more so it is not always you get what you pay for.
There are a couple of vendors here that sell gas checks at reasonable prices.

Most of my range scarp is 20+ year old Buckshot load and slugs from the PD I work for we cleaned out are store room and found 1980+ ammo for shotgun took all of it and melted it down! Might pick up a Lee 200 gr just for fun! Gas checks thats another post!

[dondiego]

You didn't shoot the 1980+ ammo first?

[tayous1]

You didn't shoot the 1980+ ammo first?

Some of it I did the ones I cut up were corroded ad not worth taking the chance in shooting them.