450 rounds to dismantle, 45ACP

[CT Kid]

I screwed up!:oops::oops:
I tried a new powder (Hodgdon Titegroup) and misread the grains for about 450 loads I made (230Grs LRN). I shot about 50 rounds and my hands seemed to sting a little from the recoil. It was cold and I figured that was the reason. But I went back and double checked my numbers and sure enough I had loaded 5.6 grains while the recomended maximum load was 4.8!

I checked the brass and it seems ok, I will clean the guns tonight to look for any damage.

My questions are:
Is there anything I should look for as far as damage to my pistols.

Is there a fast way to dismantle 450 rounds?

I shot the bullseye out at 25 yards![smilie=1:

[Morgan Astorbilt]

If the cases were longer than .45acp, I'd recommend my favorite method, which requires the case mouth to protrude above the press frame when the ram is brought up, without a die installed. I use a pair of 6-1/2" end nippers, of the type used by farriers. I place a cartridge in the shell holder, bring the ram up, pinch the bullet right above the case mouth, and lower the ram. The bullet comes out with very little damage, can be reused, and the powder is poured into a container, to return to the powder measure. It takes more time to describe it, than to do it. I've also got both collet and inertia type bullet pullers, and this is much faster, so I only use them for j++++++d bullets.:-D

The end nipper I'm using, may need some describing. It's not the type that Sears sells along with diagonal cutters(dykes), the jaws on them don't have a deep enough opening to grasp a bullet.
The edge of the jaws are about 3/4" wide, and they open about 1-1/2" On the 6-1/2" ones I use, the only markings are: Made in W. Germany(British Zone). That'll give you an idea how long I've had them. I've also got a pair of 8" ones made by Crescent, the part number is #6608 which should give a way of looking up the style I'm referring to.
Morgan

[CT Kid]

I have a Lee Press and the method you describe will work I think. Even if I do damage the bullets it will be better than the inertia method. I find that the bullet bounces back into the case and damages the bullet plus the powder gets spread around the lead and sides of the puller making more work to recover the powder.

Thanks!

[C A Plater]

Pity you don't have a Contender barrel or Ruger Blackhawk in .45 ACP. Both could take those loads with easy and get you some fun in the process. ;)

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Had too much time on my hands, so I went down to the shop and took these photos.
This is the method I described. The cartridge is a .45LC. 160gr.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/pgfaini/100_1799.jpg

These are the nippers, the one on the right won't work, the one in the center is the one from West Germany, very loose joint, making it handy to use. The other one is a fairly new Crescent.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/pgfaini/100_1800.jpg

This is a VERY fast method, I can't understand why I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere.
Morgan

[redneckdan]

I do the same thing except I use a pair of channel locks

[STP]

I just pulled 100+ 22 hornet rounds last night to recover the Linotype boolits and brass. I used a pair of wire strippers in the same manner. Alas, about half of them still contain the gaschecks.
Now the real fun begins.
Q-tips to remove the residual lube then with the M-die expand the necks to push the gascheck into the case, then sprinkle out the H2400 and finally the checks.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Don't the Channel-locks destroy the bullet? Once you get the "feel" with the end nippers, since they're right in the crimp groove, they leave such a small mark, it is hard to see when the bullets are re-crimped.
Morgan

[kywoodwrkr]

You may be able to obtain an extended shell holder reasonable which would place the cartridge up higher(about 1").
Maybe this would allow the use opf the various gripping tools in a press.
FWIW
DaveP kywoodwrkr

[redneckdan]

the channel locks do leave slight marks but I use the pulled boolits for my friend's blasting ammo. He buys the powder/primers and I load with 2nd class boolits, mostly this is for my ar-15 in .300 whisper. He's not really an accruacy nut but he enjoys him self and it helps me find weaknesses in the weapon. When he's blasting away I can watch how the brass ejects and what needs to be tuned. This is how I traced down a FTE to a weak extractor spring.

[GSM]

"Is there anything I should look for as far as damage to my pistols."

LOOK FOR FRAME BATTERING (NICE SHINY SPOTS NEAR THE END OF THE DUST COVER WHERE IT MEETS THE FRAME.

"Is there a fast way to dismantle 450 rounds?"

KNOW ANYONE WITH A THOMPSON SUBMACHINE GUN?

[CT Kid]

As a matter of fact I do know someone with a Thompson Machine Gun!!! Now that is a great Idea!

[Ricochet]

Dust cover? You mean the slide? :)

[GSM]

No, not the slide. On the frame "034", the front section where the recoil spring resides is a "dust cover". The area to look for some battering is just ahead of where the slide release (043) goes in - the recoil spring plug (036) pushes against a vertical face in the frame just forward of the slide release.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

You may be able to obtain an extended shell holder reasonable which would place the cartridge up higher(about 1").
Maybe this would allow the use opf the various gripping tools in a press.
FWIW
DaveP kywoodwrkr


This is true, but they cost three times as much as regular shell holders, and you would have to get one for each group of rim dimensions. $$$, unless you wait until it's needed and then order it.
Morgan

[Ricochet]

No, not the slide. On the frame "034", the front section where the recoil spring resides is a "dust cover".
Surely you jest. They call it that?! :shock:

[GSM]

That's what I've heard it called from a couple of g-smiths on the Bullseye forum.

[BD]

Yup, that's the dust cover. Frame battering is commonly apparent on either the rear of the recoil spring guide rod plate or the front of the frame inside the dust cover, whichever is the softer of the two.

If you look straight into the end of the dustcover, (you'd be looking down the barrel if the gun was assembled), you will see a slightly raised U shaped area that the back of the spring guide bears against when the gun is assembled. If this area is shiney and flattened, you've had some battering. Alternatively, an imprint of this area may be starting to show up on the rear of the flat plate on the end of spring guide rod if that is the softer of the two.

BD

[kellyj00]

at 5.6 grains of titegroup... I'd probably just go ahead and shoot them.
I've loaded up lots of stuff that wasn't within spec, because I"m really that inattentive. 9mm is a little easier to load, though, as you can really tell when you're putting too much in.

Check your brass, see if there's any marks. Titegroup is strong stuff, but I load 5.3 grains in my 45acp without problems when I want something that impresses.