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View Full Version : 311008 or Accurate 31-120K in .32 six-guns??



Wheelgun
01-06-2014, 12:36 AM
My wife has decided to carry one of my S&W 32 Hand Ejectors, instead of her S&W M24, while she's jogging/hiking. So, I'm looking for another mold for my .32 S&W Longs and .32 H&R Mag. I'm thinking either Lyman 311008 (115gr originally for 32-20) or the Accurate 31-120K (120gr Keith). Id also be interested in any 115-125gr Keith bullet. I'll be running these though a Ruger Single-Six 32, as well as my S&W .32 Hand Ejectors. Right now all I have is the Lee 93gr RN, but I'm looking for something that's heavier and hits harder. Ideally I'd like to use it for small-med game and wife's carry gun. Any insight into these molds and/or how they preform in guns listed is greatly appreciated.

mpbarry1
01-06-2014, 01:43 AM
i sure like my 3118 and 311016. kind of the traditional 115 gr 32-20 molds. I use them in a 94 marlin built in 1906.

Mk42gunner
01-06-2014, 09:15 AM
I used the group buy 314120, 122 grains in my alloy, in front of a rather large amount of LILGUN in my Ruger SSM. It shot good (~an inch for six rounds) back when I could still clearly see the sights; but it also impacted several inches above point of aim at twenty five yards with the rear sight all the way down. The next time I go to the range I will be testing some 100 grain SWC, I really like to have POA/POI right at the top of the front sight.

For my old hand ejector, I use 2.5 grains of red dot with a 95-100 boolit. it shoots to the fixed sights (when I can see them).

Robert

Thin Man
01-06-2014, 09:20 AM
I am inclined to be more gentle with my hand ejectors as they are older and the I-frame revolvers were not designed to be hot-rodded even when new. My preference for them is a SWC or a full WC design at nominal 800 FPS+/- and let the boolit do it's work rather than trying to steam up the cartridge with a heavier boolit or faster load. With what is readily available, you might consider the RCBS 32-098-SWC pattern. I use this boolit in my 32 revolvers and it shines in my Ruger 32 H&R Magnum. This is a square (not bevel) plain base design, no gas check required. If you can locate the most recent copy of Handloader magazine it contains an outstanding article on loading for the I-frame 32 S&W Long caliber. Good luck with your project.
Thin Man

MT Gianni
01-06-2014, 11:35 AM
Another vote for the RCBS 98 SWC.

EMC45
01-06-2014, 11:43 AM
I own I & J Frames and an SP101 in .32 cal. I prefer the 32-098 RCBS over everything I have shot. It looks nice and shoots great. I also have the Lee 93 TL SWC mold and it does good too. I just now had the longest casting session with my brass copy of the 3118 over the weekend. It almost went to the trash can because of my frustration with it. It finally started casting right when I cranked up the Lee dripper as high as it would go and after I muttered under my breath at it. I am pretty sure it is a homemade brass mold and I had to redrill and tap the sprue screw set screw, but when it wants to play it makes very nice bullets. Huge deep lube grooves and sharp corners.

Outpost75
01-06-2014, 12:05 PM
The 115-grain plainbased version of the NEI #82, without the GC is similar in shape to #3118 or as they call it now #311008.

Another good choice is the Saeco #322.

In the old S&W Hand Ejector I do not exceed 2 grains of Bullseye, 2.5 of W231 or 3 grs. Unique or PB with the 115-120 grain bullets for 720 fps.

With the 98-grain Saeco #325 miniature Keith bullet a charge of 2.5 grains of Bullseye shoots well in the HE, and is max., 820 fps. Do not exceed!

In the Ruger Single Six 3 grs. of Bullseye, 3.5 grs. of W231, 4 grs. of Unique or 6.5 grs. of #2400 with the 120-grain bullets gives 900 fps.

beagle
01-06-2014, 12:09 PM
I've run a variety of available designs through my Ruger SS .32 Mag. Most of the Lymans and all the RCBS offerings both in the .32 S & W Long cases and in .32 Mag cases. Either the 311008HP or the 31133 (factory HP) moulds have given me the best accuracy./beagle

Wheelgun
01-07-2014, 12:07 AM
Thanks for all the info, I'll have to look into all of those. I'm hesitant to get a new mold until I have some kind of idea how its going to work. Thanks again for all the input, I really appreciate it