Bevel base boolits question.

[retread]

I was given a nearly full box of Penn Bullets, 200 gr SWC that I am loading in a 44 Spl. They are bevel base. I have not used them before now, which brought a question to my mind. When casting 9mm in a Lee 124 gr. TC 6-banger I have trouble getting the bases completely filled out a times. Nothing dramatic, just a slight rounding on the circumference of the base. In my reading I have noticed some folks pressure cast to cure that problem. This being said I am puzzled about why the slight rounding would to a problem but a beveled base would not. Could someone with more knowledge that I answer that question.

Thanks, Jay

[Echo]

If the slight rounding were uniform, it probably wouldn't hurt anything. My guess on the rounding is lack of venting near the base. Take a stone and break the corners of the mold between the cavities, just enough so you can see that you have taken off some material. do it all the way to each end of the mould, both sides, and see if that doesn't cure the roundheels.

[303Guy]

I've tried bevel base boolits with paper patching with the idea of eliminating trailing edge feathering or finning and uneven rifling impression distortion of the boolit base. I also rounded the base edge to the same end. It seemed to work but I stopped testing before a conclusion could be drawn. I am planning on trying the same with naked cast some time fairly soon.

[DRNurse1]

+1--I have to echo Echo's advice on consistency. [sorry, I do agree but could not resist the attempt at funny--:)--]

I shoot beveled base competition boolits and they out perform me, but I would put the rounded based one's back in the pot to recast.

[Tatume]

Hi Jay,

I just grabbed a Penn 44 bullet at random, and it measured 0.4314" in diameter. That's good. The bevel bases on several that I examined were uniform, which is also good. But as it is said, the proof is in the pudding, and I've shot lots of Penn 240 grain 44 bullets. They shoot well. I recommend tumble-lubing them in LLA, in addition to the "crayon" lube that comes on them.

To eliminate rounded bases, Veral Smith recommends continuing to pour for several seconds after your mold is full. Just hold the mold over the pot if using a ladle, or put an ingot mold under the spout if using a bottom-pour pot. It works. However, once your mold is good and hot and bullets are coming out slightly frosted, you can stop over pouring and still get good bases.

Take care, Tom

[Old Caster]

If you want a perfect bullet for competition, learn to pressure pour but this might give you such good fillout that it will give you fins in various places depending on the quality of the mold.

In general if your bullets are not all exactly square on the end, it won't matter depending of course on what a person means when they say not exactly square. If lead is dumped faster into the mold, it will likely make the base more square but it also makes it more likely to have dirt in the bullet especially at the base but this usually can be seen when sizing.

The difference between bevel and square bullets is minimal if even a difference at all. I have shot a lot of 068 and 069 Saeco bullets out of a Ransom Rest and "think" that the square bullets are a tiny bit better but to quantitatively prove this would take some time and the difference is not enough to chase.

Unless you are shooting competitively in a game that requires real fine accuracy, I wouldn't worry about them.

If I am molding bullets for steel plate challenge, I will not pressure pour just because it takes longer and is more tiring. You can try higher temperature and faster pour and that will improve the base but if you go too far, you will have the sprue plate smearing the lead across the top of the mold. Experience will soon tell you how far to go.

[mdi]

To answer your question; a bevel based bullet/mold is designed that way and a rounded base (from improper fillout) is a defect. For accurate bullets consistency is very important and a defect would have to be exactly the same each time, whereas proper fillout of a bevel base design is relatively easy (and consistent). Once you get the temperatures of mold and melt down, you shouldn't have too much trouble with fillout...

[retread]

Thanks to all for the feedback and advice. Back to the shop to try some of your suggestions.

Jay

[Rustyleee]

Years ago (mid 70's) when I was a LEO we had a local gun shop that sold reloads. The owner there had come up with a bevel base bullet for his .38 reloads. At the time He always said that it was to make it easier to reload in a Star loader that he used.

[Echo]

Years ago (mid 70's) when I was a LEO we had a local gun shop that sold reloads. The owner there had come up with a bevel base bullet for his .38 reloads. At the time He always said that it was to make it easier to reload in a Star loader that he used.
Plus One for the reason or BB boolits - easier reloading...

[cbrick]

Veral Smith is correct that a generous sprue puddle will help give better base fill-out but the reason is two fold. 1. Yes, it gives the boolit base metal to draw from but . . . 2. It also adds heat to the sprue plate to get it hot enough and then keep it there. A too cool plate will cause poor base fill-out.

Rick

[detox]

Nothing wrong with rounded bases if they are all consistantly shaped.

Too cold or too tight sprue plate will cause rounded bases.

Sometimes pressure casting with a ladle will not cure rounded base problem, especially if the sprue plate sets TOO perfectly flat with no venting at base. I would loosen sprue plate (swinging loosely) then try bottom pour method with mould about 1/4 away from spout. You can also use the ladle for this, but hold ladle away from sprue plate hole when pouring. Allow mould and plate to come up to temp before judging if this works.

[rsrocket1]

I also noticed that I got rounded bases if I tried to stop pouring just as the lead reaches the top of the sprue cutout. I now pour a big generous puddle across all 6 cavities and get nice sharp bases. It also keeps the sprue nice and hot which keeps the lead hot as it enters the mold cavity. The single big sprue is also easier to handle to get back into the pot.

[Beagle333]

Too cold or too tight sprue plate will cause rounded bases. I would loosen sprue plate (swinging loosely) then try bottom pour method with mould about 1/4 away from spout. You can also use the ladle for this, but hold ladle away from sprue plate hole when pouring. Allow mould and plate to come up to temp before judging if this works.

Usually this is my problem too. I will start seeing rounded bases and notice that the set screw has loosened and the plate has turned the plate screw upon closing and gotten too tight. I have not gotten around to "breaking the edge" of the mold blocks, but I have a couple that could really use it.

[retread]

I just grabbed a Penn 44 bullet at random, and it measured 0.4314" in diameter. That's good. The bevel bases on several that I examined were uniform, which is also good. But as it is said, the proof is in the pudding, and I've shot lots of Penn 240 grain 44 bullets. They shoot well. I recommend tumble-lubing them in LLA, in addition to the "crayon" lube that comes on them.


The Penn boolits I got were pretty old stock and a lot of them were missing lube in the groove so I boiled them clean, then relubed. That junk that was in them was sticky and gooey(when heated). Had to boil them several times and keep skimming off the 'waxy dross'. They did clean up well after all was done.

[flintsghost]

At one time I had a H&G mold for a #68 BB and a close friend had the same mold for a #68 flat base. I've shot both. I always thought the flat base gave me slightly better accuracy with the same load. Bevel bases were very popular because with the advent of everyone owning a Dillon reloading went faster with them for IPSC shooters. But I think I prefer the flat and more precise technique over speed.

[Echo]

No, it was the advent of the Star progressive reloader, 'way back.