Calipers vs micrometer....

[AlaskanGuy]

Ok guys, i know that i am gunna light off a fire here.... But i am not one to run from a fire....

The question is what do you use, and why...

I use these from hornady.
91712

I like them. I got them from evilbay for 20 bucks, and they measure accurately to .000. I like that they do outside measurement, inside measurement, and can also measure the inside case due to the nice attachment on the bottom of the calipers.. I also like that i can zero them at the touch of a button, and they have a nice big digital readout for my older eyes.. I have compared these to my older dial type calipers and they are dead on the same... But the digital ones are fast and easy to see.... I very very rarely need to go beyond .000 and my dial type micrometer sits in it bag un-used gathering dust as the 20 dollar calipers do everything i need these days.... I have seen the exact same calipers marketed by many other venders that just slap their name on them and sell them as theirs....

Just my opinion.. Fess up guys, what do you have? And what do you USE ????

AlaskanGuy

[engineer401]

Generally I use a RCBS dial caliper. Batteries don't need replacing. I rarely use micrometers. The truth is I also use a beam scale for powder. The digital RCBS scale requires too much re-zeroing. It's a hassle.

[Fire_Medic]

Same here for me engineer401, Dillon Beam Scale, and dial calipers. Works for what I need it to. But I have had a hankering as of late to get digital versions of both….. just hasn't been enough of a want to take the plunge when what I have works. Too many other wants right now before going digital.

[Char-Gar]

I have a high end digital Starrett caliper, but even a low end micrometer is more precise that even the high end calipers.

[Sensai]

I use a 0-1" micrometer for everything that I can and a dial caliper for the longer measurements. I know that the claims of accuracy are about the same nowadays, but I was always taught that a micrometer was more accurate than a caliper. I'm too old and set in my ways to change now. The digital measurement tools are nice, I just don't have any experience with them.

[CastingFool]

I use a 6" Mitutoyo dial caliper. Same one I used in the shop, when I worked as a machinist. Ran a manual lathe. Boy, do I miss that machine! All the things I could make with it now. I did make a neck sizing die for a 50 BMG once. I obtained a couple of fired .50 cal bullets, and some empty brass. Figured out what size I needed for proper neck tension and bored out a piece of brass to that dimension. Lubed up the case and pushed into the die (right on the lathe, and seated the bullet the same way) Used 5/8" collets on the lathe chuck to crimp the case.

[Doc_Stihl]

Micrometers when possible.
CALIBRATED and Verified Micrometers if possible.
Calipers otherwise.

[bangerjim]

Depends on what you are measuring and how accurate you need/want to be.

Most of my lathe work is anywhere from 1-7 inches, so I use digital calipers for the range. 0.0005 is good enough for government work!

On smaller more accurate instruments and "stuff" that requires ultra accurate fits, clearances, and over-all good quality measurements, I use digital mic's 1" & 2" and dial indicators. I can get down to 0.00005 there.

Use digital height/lay-out gauges on the granite surface plates.

Starrett stuff pretty much 100%. Have a couple HF "throw-aways" in the traveling tool box. If a $30 junker gets damaged or lost.......no big whoop.

If you want quality, get away from the bullet and gun manufacturer's brands at buy Starrett or Mitutoyo so you KNOW the accuracy and quality is up to a machinist and tool & diemaker's needs!

And do not buy from EvilBay........you have no idea what worn-out crapola you will get! No matter what the "trusted" seller says. Been there....done that.

Buy ONLY quality new or known usage tools the 1st time........they will last a lifetime! (and the some!)

bangerjim

[kenyerian]

I agree with banger Jim. I also use both and Prefer Starrett just because mine are 40 years old and still going strong.

[dtknowles]

I used digital calipers at work because that is what we had, at home I use my cheap analog micrometer for bullet and slug measurements and my dial indicating calipers for case length. I think the micrometer gives more accurate readings even if it is a lower quality instrument. I keep thinking about a ball end micrometer so I can get accurate case wall thickness measurements but don't ever seem to pull the trigger.

Tim

[WallyM3]

I use all (and all Starrett), which depending upon the job, accuracy needed and what happens to be conveniently on the bench at the time.
91726

[GRUMPA]

I use the best stuff I have for almost everything. I use on a regular basis O.D. Mics, Carbide tipped O.D. Blade Mics, 2-6" dial Calipers and a 12" dial caliper. As well as .005 all the way down to .00005 indicators for various things I do.

Now before everyone chimes in on that here's the reason I use what most would consider OVERKILL with the equipment.

I have found out that casting rifle boolits the nose bends over time and have used my .00005 indicator to weed out the ones with runout of over .0001. When I wildcat brass to other calibers I make sure nothing goes wrong before it goes wrong. I want to know as much as I can before a single piece of brass goes out the door to someone that 1) paid for something that's supposed to work 2) Everyone that gets brass from me expects it to perform better than what the factory has to offer.

So in a nut-shell it can be considered overboard to a point but....I would rather dissect the you-know-what out of what I do to PREVENT a problem than find out there's something wrong later.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Both have their own place. You really need both.

You really can't expect Calipers to be the end all when it is so easy to get false readings with them. If you measure something you must actually do it several times to insure that the measurements repeat. If they don't repeat, you haven't got a valid reading, simple as that.

I have been doing this virtually everyday for 30 + years and I still can get bogus readings so don't tell me you're perfect everytime. Luckily most times I know when they are not right and take steps to find out why and fix it. Sometimes that involves going to another tool to verify what the first tool said.

Micrometers have their faults also. I just threw away a bunch of custom washers that the grinding shop botched because the guy read his mike wrong and the parts came out .078 thick instead of .103. IE: he was one turn off. This wouldn't have happened with dial calipers.

Sometimes it is best to do measurements with both tools. The Calipers get you into the ball park and then you go to Mikes for the actual final dimension. I do this when turning parts down on the lathe frequently. I do all my roughing passes with the calipers and then the finish pass with a mike. That way I have less chance going too small before I realize where I'm at.

Incidentally everyone I know has little "procedures" that they use to insure correct results, and since everyone has different mental issues to deal with those procedures vary from person to person.

I'd suggest whatever tool you choose that you learn how to use it correctly, and figure out how to generate valid readings and definitely learn the difference between good ones and bad ones.

Otherwise you will experience failure. This can be annoying.

Randy

[W.R.Buchanan]

Grumpa: what you are doing is known as in-process inspection. Which is what we do in a machine shop as we make parts.

When you make a load of scrap because somebody read their calipers wrong it costs the owner money. How much money depends on the product and the quantity. It also determines who gets their **** chewed, or in extreme cases who gets their **** fired!

Randy

[mikeym1a]

Generally I use a RCBS dial caliper. Batteries don't need replacing. I rarely use micrometers. The truth is I also use a beam scale for powder. The digital RCBS scale requires too much re-zeroing. It's a hassle.

Yeah, what he said. I have micrometers, digital calipers that measure to .0005, and a dial caliper. To use the micrometer, I have to get a tiny bench vise to hold the mic, whilst I hold the boolit with one hand, and try to dial in the number with the other. For most work, I end up using my dial caliper. I have two digital calipers. One good and one that likes to 'hunt'. Even the good one has to be zeroed about every 5th measurement, so, I generally use the dial caliper. I, too, use a beam scale. It doesn't turn itself off to 'save' the battery in the middle of a loading session. (GRRR!) I guess I am an adherent to the 'KISS' principle. Some of the guys on here swear at the use of calipers, but, I find them easier. If I could afford a good digital readout micrometer, I would get one, but haven't found one that fits into my budget. JMO. :-D

[btroj]

I own both but didn't have a micrometer until about 2 years ago. I have had a caliper for over 20 years.
A caliper is far more useful for a reloader but when you need a Micrometer you NEED a micrometer.

[AlaskanGuy]

+ 1 to what grumpa says... He is in the business of making fine products and his attention to the details really shows.... I would expect his craftsmanship is due to his meticulous nature makeing sure that ANYTHING he sells is as near to perfection as he can possibly get it. That is why he needs all of the things that he uses.... For me, i sell nothing that i craft, and is crafted for my own purpose, so my good ole calipers are great for most of what I do....

+1 to what btroj said... When i need a micrometer, i am glad that the dusty ole thing is there and i dust it off.... But that is rare in my case...

AG

[country gent]

I have mics from0-6" and calipers to 12" the mike set are browne and sharpe slant lines with vernieer ( read to .0001) ialso ahe mitoyo digital that are 0-2" and read to .00005 These were used for gage work and in areas that had to be dead right. The calipers are Browne and Sharpe, and mityoyo several sets of 6: and 1 12" ( mityoyos) these read to .0005 but I only trust them to .001 after many years with them and checking against gage blocks. There is also an old old set of starret 24" vernieer calipers i use when needed, My old eyes need alot of help with those small lines. Most accurate is gage blocks on a granite plate and indicator and hiegth gage to transfer from gage blocks to parts.
Keep in mind for measuring tools to be accurate good standards, gage blocks need to be used to check zeros and accuracy occasionally. On most mics I check with the standard before each use. Once a year they get a complete check thru range. Same with the calipers. I have seen calipers where the inside jaws were .003 of from the inside jaws, this is also possible with the depth rod on them. But if a 2" gage block measures 2" and your part measures 2" in the calipers, Its probably 2". At work everything we made in the tool room was checked by gage and layout for accuracy. It had to be right.

[Pepe Ray]

I'm with AlaskanGuy.
As soon as I read his post I could see it coming.
Here is a question from a loader/handloader/reloader/ammo maker for shooting for FUN and the responses come from machinests.
Whether pro or amateur their projects require a degree PRECISION not necessary in ammo making. Accuracy OTOH has a window of tollerances
inherent in the needs of the gun hobby and are easily met by a dial caliper when the operator periodically verifies its accuracy with a standard.

After about 30 years of loading with a dial caliper I surrendered to the pressure from you machinests and purchased a Starrett dig mike.
$160 down the tube. For a year I dubbed w/it, mostly coroberating my calipers. Mostly I used it to measure case head expansion for a cartridge that data was scairce and then found out that the technique was flawed. I did use the mike to make a couple of ball bearing standards
for checking my calipers, JIC.

The $160 White Elephant has been setting in its case for so long the battery has died. Fortunately I can use the vernier hash marks.
That's my story AISTI.
Pepe Ray

[w5pv]

All of my precision tools are Starrett and I have had them for over 50 years I use mikes and dial indicators for the close work calipers for things like case length and measurements that don't have to be exact.I have used everything from a jerked string to piano wire for alignment purposes with the optical and electronic gadgets threw in.A thousandth is a thousandth any way you measure it

[CastingFool]

I used to be able to measure down to .002" with my 6" scale, when my eyes were good. I would ask the guys what kind of tolerance they would give me, to cut off a 1" long piece of steel. One guy said he would give me .005" I told him I could do much better than that. He didn't believe me, until I cut off one piece of steel and gave it to him to measure. He measured it, and just shook his head. I measured it and the mike showed 1.001" I simply learned to use the lines of the scale as a gauge. I didn't rely on the scale for accurate measurements, but it was fun to show off. It's all about knowing your equipment. Wish I had kept that piece of steel.

[John Boy]

Whether pro or amateur their projects require a degree PRECISION not necessary in ammo making.Bingo! And is the reason why I buy manual & digital calipers from Harbor Freight. Then I measure the digital with a certified plug gauge - difference is usually 0.001 and mark it on the caliper. Manuals for - Get Close
Micrometers: got a real deal on an inside used for bore measurements, especially uneven no of grooves and outside for curious fine tuned measurements

[GRUMPA]

Grumpa: what you are doing is known as in-process inspection. Which is what we do in a machine shop as we make parts.

When you make a load of scrap because somebody read their calipers wrong it costs the owner money. How much money depends on the product and the quantity. It also determines who gets their **** chewed, or in extreme cases who gets their **** fired!

Randy

Boy your not kidding, after working as a Precision Grinder for 27yrs it grows on a person. That's how I became Certified in I.S.O and S.P.C. which really makes a person think about things.


+ 1 to what GRUMPA says... He is in the business of making fine products and his attention to the details really shows.... I would expect his craftsmanship is due to his meticulous nature making sure that ANYTHING he sells is as near to perfection as he can possibly get it. That is why he needs all of the things that he uses.... For me, i sell nothing that i craft, and is crafted for my own purpose, so my good ole calipers are great for most of what I do....

AG

You know it helps when folks say that. But on the other hand I've been known to get lucky on a few things..[smilie=1:

[375supermag]

Hi...

I use a dial caliper for reloading chores.
I have used Starrett micrometers when I built printing presses a little over a decade ago.
The micrometer set resides in a tool box...I haven't used it since I left that company.

They aren't going anywhere...never can tell when I might need them. They aren't costing me anything.

[HNSB]

Remember that just because a digital caliper measures in .0005 resolution doesn't mean it has .0005 accuracy or repeatability.
I needed one for working inside a machine, and didn't want to gunk up my good ones with coolant. I bought a cheaper, and found that it was no better than a .005 measuring tool.
I don't even trust my good calipers for anything tighter than +/- .002.

[bear67]

In the reloading side of the machine shop, I use a dial caliper most of the time only using micrometers when building custom bullet sizing dies or similar tasks. I own a fine digital caliper,but don't use it often.

Machining I use a caliper to rough measurements and a mic to finish. I have drawers full of mics to 6", bore gauges, depth gages and other specialized tools to work on old engines and tractor engines. I do not own a digital mic and probably never will unless it is a gift. I started out in late 50's with manual stuff and it is comfortable. Still use a vernier caliper.

Use what you are comfortable with and what you know how to use well. It has got me this far, and I dance with the girl who brung me.

[JSnover]

. To use the micrometer, I have to get a tiny bench vise to hold the mic, whilst I hold the boolit with one hand, and try to dial in the number with the other. JMO. :-D
Why is that? I've operated mics up to 8" (depending on the shape and weight of the piece) easily with one hand. Loop a finger or three through the frame to hold it. Use your thumb and forefinger to turn the spindle. Hold the boolit with your other hand.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Grumpa:: What you have developed is called "Attention to Detail" That coupled with "Personal Responsibility" are the two things that define a Craftsman.

These two things are easy to see if they are present, and it is not difficult to see, when they are not present.

I must say that the "Grinders" I have known are among the most detail oriented individuals I have ever met. It is the nature of the beast and they just have to look closer at things than the average chip maker does. They typically run closer to the elusive "perfection" that we all go for, but never seem to achieve.

Randy

[DougGuy]

I like and use both. Quick measurements like choosing a go-no go drill bit, sheet metal thickness, simple measurements, I like the caliper. I have a Mitutoyo dial and a cheap digital. They both have their place on the bench. For accurate readings, stuff that needs to be more precise, less than .001" I use the micrometer.

[taiden]

For things like case length, calipers are fine.
For things like boolit diameter, I'd want to use a mic.

[waco]

I have a high end digital Starrett caliper, but even a low end micrometer is more precise that even the high end calipers.

I'm with Char-Gar on this one. Everyone should own a good mic.

[JSnover]

I have a no-name dial caliper from Midway, a digital caliper from SPI, and a micrometer from Starrett. All have been within .001" every time I compare them but if it absolutely has to be right on the money, the nod goes to Starrett.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I use both...both of mine are mitutoyo.
But I will admit, my thumb is not consistant enough to read any better than ±.0005 with a caliper, whereas a quality Mic will allow most novices, like me, to read to .0003

My hats off to you folks that can use a caliper with enough precision to measure boolit dia and slug dia. I'm sure if you use that tool everyday, it is possible.

[MtGun44]

Calipers measure to +/- 0.001. If you think they are more accurate, you are living
in a fantasy world, not reality. To measure boolit diameters you need a micrometer
that reads to .0001" rather than a caliper, no matter if it has a digital readout
more than .001. The fourth digit on a caliper is malarkey.

Bill

[EDG]

Calipers are very versatile and useful. Yes they often have a resolution of .001 but you are kidding yourself if they are consistently better +/- .002. I have used one of those China China Midway calipers for more than a decade because I can no longer easily read my 50 year old Polish made calipers.
When I want a good number I normally use a 60 year old Brown and Sharpe mike that lives near my keyboard.

The measuring tools that I value the most at work are the 50" optical comparators.
These wonderous tools can measure the shoulder angle of a fired case. You can also directly measure the head to datum diameter dimension.

[country gent]

And with the right chart you can check ogives boattails and metplats consistency with a comparator also. The eye can discerne to about .005-.010 at 100X thats seeing to .0005-.001. I ve used one to check J bullets consistency on the form boat tail and ogive both.

[smokeywolf]

30+ years a machinist. I'll say that a good dial or vernier caliper is the handiest tool in the shop. However, as usual MtGun44 knows what he's talking about with regard to accuracy with calipers; + or - .001 is what they are good for.
W.R.Buchanan is absolutely correct with regard to dependability and repeatability with calipers.
I also follow GRUMPA's policy of overkill when it comes to using measuring tools that are more accurate and resolve a finer resolution than the atmospheric conditions or the machining operation or tolerances might allow or call for.

What do I have?
Calipers - 6" Mitutoyo dial, 6" Brown & Sharpe dial, 9" Starrett digital, 12" B&S vernier, 14" Starrett vernier and 22" old, old German brand vernier (can't remember)
Micrometers - 0-1" Starrett vernier, Starrett digital, Mitutoyo flange mikes, B&S vernier (slant line), B&S mechanical digital, 0-1.2" Mitutoyo Quickmikes, 1-2" B&S vernier, 1-2" B&S mechanical digital, 1-2", 2-3" and 3-4" Tesa mechanical digitals.

smokeywolf