Lee six cavity problems

[nagantino]

I started making bullets about 3 weeks ago. I cast from the Lee Production Pot IV and pour into a Lee 6 cavity mold for .40 cal 175 grain {401-175-TC]. Its the best fun and I have made hundreds of good bullets, mind you I have recast several hundred. The problem is that the mold has shown some annoying characteristics

1. The steel bushing nearest the handles came out. I tapped it back in.

2. The cam operated sprue plate will not stay down tight.

I have tried tightening the sprue plate but it stays "tight" only for one casting. Tonight I had to retighten every cast and anyway it was not truly tight. Its as if the tightening bolt was too short, and was not grabbing the threads. Its a source of aggravation to me and has me worrying should I return the mold or do all 6 cavity molds behave the same. I am aware the heat will expand the metals at different rates but it seems like a basic fault that I have not seen mentioned on the boards. All the gear is new. Shoot.

[Buckshot]

................No they don't all do that, but enough do so that a remedy has been perfected :-) Remove the SP pivit bolt. D&T in from the side for a 8-32 setscrew top bear against the pivit bolt threads. Set the pivit bolt how you want it and cinch down on the setscrew to retain it.

Get some Bullplate lube. See at the bottom of the page the Bullshop banner.

Where the sprueplate cam works is aluminum. The cam is steel. The steel will win eventually. A fix is to D&T a hole at the front 3rd part of where the cam bears and insert a setscrew just above flush for the cam to bear on. Or drill a suitable sized hole and screw in a flathead wood or sheetmetal screw. Anthting to keep the steel off that alum.

Get some Bullplate lube. See at the bottom of the page the Bullshop banner.

When the alignment bushing wants to come out again, pull it out. Use your Dremel to cut a small slot, or more accurately a notch in one edge. Put it back in with the notch up. Lay the block down on something flat with the notch facing up. Use a punch of appropriate size (small) to upset just a smidge of aluminum into the notch. That shold cure that.

Get some Bullplate lube. See at the bottom of the page the Bullshop banner.

Other then that, get some Bullplate lube to make the mould live and you'll be good to go.

...................Buckshop

[dromia]

I would do as Buckshot says but also get some Bullplate lube. See at the bottom of the page the Bullshop banner. :-D

Seriously, it makes the steel and aluminium "go gentle" on each other.

[nagantino]

I think I will take your advise and tap a thread in to catch the Sprue plate bolt.
I resent this.

Be patient...what is Bull Plate lube? Can any lube suffice? UK boolit shuker.

While I have the experts on..... do you guys cut the sprue just after pouring while the alloy is almost liquid or is the alloy meant to cool then cut?

[45nut]

http://bullshop.gunloads.com/

Bullplate is an excellent lube for your sprue plate's to preclude smearing and galling.

[Razor]

I cut my sprue right after it changes from shiney to dull..

Razor

PS. You might wanna try some Bull Plate Lube...

[Buckshot]

...................You guys are killing me :-)

................Buckshot

[nagantino]

Now listen here Buckshot, if that is your real name, some of use are just starting out ........why I outta.

Seriously thanks for all the help.

[flinchnjerk]

Further to Buckshot's advice - drop a small chunk of copper wire between the pivot bolt and set screw. If you cinch the set screw down on the pivot bolt without some kind of buffer, the set screw will bung up the pivot bolt's threads, and when it comes time to adjust the pivot bolt or remove the sprue plate (and that's WHEN, not IF), the bunged-up threads will chew up the threads in the mold block. If you're lucky, chasing the block's threads will clean them up well enough to hold the pivot bolt. If you're not lucky, it's D & T the block for a 5/16-24 pivot bolt.

[nagantino]

Many thank to Buckshot and Flinchnjerk. I went into the workshop and T&D the hole left by the old pivot-bolt for a new 8mm bolt. I also T&D in from the side with a smaller bolt to catch and control the new pivot bolt. I took Buckshots further advice and staked a steel wood screw down near the cam to prevent wear in the future. Now I feel like Isumbard Kingdom Brunel but what a lot of work on a brand new item. I like all Lee products but this is not good. The threads in hole for the pivot were almost gone. Flinch I can see what you are talking about and will try that copper thing tomorrow.

[Springfield]

The sprue pivot bolts ALL strip out, eventually. Some of my moulds went as long as 4000 bullets, some gave out at 500. I put in set screws at first but have l found that they will too eventually strip out as there is very little meat for the threads to use. I now am putting in pivot bolts that go all the way through the mould and use locking nuts. The mould doesn't sit flat on its back anymore but doesn't seem to matter. Of course some of my moulds have over 80,000 bullets through them so yours may work fine without all the work. I also stake all my alignment pins in place the day I get the new mould. Just saves aggravation later on.

[Tristan]

I don't know if anyone mentioned this before, but you better be gettin' yourself some of that Bullplate lube...

[dromia]

With Bullplate lube you can cut the sprue whilst still molten without lead smearing on the sprueplate or the mould top.

I still let mine solidify first though.

[dromia]

BTW if you are in the the UK PM your address and I'll send you some Bull Plate lube to try.

[PatMarlin]

What's the name of that lube?... :confused: :Fire::mrgreen:

[Ricochet]

Is that Bullplate sprue plate lube stuff any good?

[9.3X62AL]

You guys are awful.

[Phil]

I'm really surprised that none of you guys have mentioned Bullplate Sprue Plate Lube. It's not a secret you know, and the guy really does need it. (:>) Also, for the worn out thread thingies, try helicoils.

Cheers,

Phil

[Bret4207]

Isn't there some special lube one of the guys here developed that is supposed to work good in this application?

[nagantino]

OK you guys get your cheap laughs. I've gone and found my own Lube brand anyway........:drinks:its called KY and it works fine so there. It must be made in Kentucky or some where.

[Winger Ed.]

:its called KY and it works fine so there.

Hmmm,
If K-Y works well as a substitute for Bullplate......
,,,,, I wonder if Bullplate could be substituted for K-Y's, more ahhh,,,,
'common applications'- shall we say?:-D

.