BP Drop Tube design

[omgb]

Guys, I'm going to make a new drop tube set up and before I do, I'd like to get some ideas from others. Any photos or plans?

[Boz330]

I have an article that a friend gave me about a drop tube with a vibrator on it for more consistant powder drop. Uses a little 3V motor from Radio Shack. I haven't built one yet but it is a slick idea. The only problem is that it is a copy and the pictures aren't very good.

Bob

[omgb]

Now that sounds interesting. Do you know the original source? You know, issue etc?

[Boz330]

Now that sounds interesting. Do you know the original source? You know, issue etc?

I'm not sure but I'll try to remember to check this evening. Single Shot Exchange or maybe ASSRA Magazine comes to mind but it's not a steel trap anymore.

Bob

[crossfireoops]

Hey Boz, ....'yer in luck.....this'un's runnin' over at the "Campfire"

Link: http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1784357/page/1#Post1784357

Best regards,

GTC

[montana_charlie]

My drop tube is super simple.
I screwed two cup hooks into the front edges of the shelves above my loading bench.
I slid a 3-foot section of hobby shop brass tubing down through those two hooks, and there is a friction-fit rubber 'thing' on the tube that rests on the bottom cup hook. (I move the rubber thing up and down to set the tube at the right height from my bench surface.)

The tube being three feet long (tall), I have to stand up to pour powder in the top, but the case being charged is on my bench...not down on the floor, like some.

The funnel wasn't made with any 'restriction' in it, so I've been doing the slow pour thing, but...

I stuck a 7mm spire point rifle bullet in a short piece of plastic tubing.
I shoved a wire through the tubing a short distance from the base of the bullet.
By placing the wire across the top of my funnel, I can adjust the bullet in the plastic tube to allow the tip to hang down into the funnel neck...causing a restriction that has an adjustable gap on all sides of the bullet's tip.
It could be called a 'powder valve' in the funnel neck.

Haven't tried it, yet, because I haven't needed to reload anything.

I figure if the restriction causes powder to 'bridge', and adjusting the gap doesn't cure it, I can add 'vibration'.

That will be one of those electric 'engraving' tools...laying on one of my shelves...with the tip taped to the brass tube.
CM

[KCSO]

I slid a chunk of aluminum arrow into a spare spout for my old Lyman 55 and it was a good fit so I glued it in place and it's been there for 20 years. The measure fits on the top shelf of the bench and a locator block centers the ctgs under the tube.

[Red River Rick]

I've been using a Wen electric engraving tool. I hold the body of the engraver against the case, not the stylus, after dumping the powder into the case. The amount of vibration transmitted can be adjusted on the engraver by adjusting the knob. Works great for me.

The idea came about when I was loading shotshells with buffered loads, it settles the buffering material and allows it to migrate within the shot charge.


Rick

[montana_charlie]

I've been using a Wen electric engraving tool. I hold the body of the engraver against the case,
That means you settle your charges with vibration...and no drop tube...right Rick?

The most efficient method of doing that (that I've heard about) is to charge enough cases to fill a loading block, and then vibrate the whole block.
CM

[94Doug]

I have yet to assemble mine, I had one made out of PVC, which I think was a bad idea, and has been eliminated. My plan is to use brass and/or copper, and follow the design that is sold in Cabellas catalog, with the Oak stand. I have found some sources for tubing and funnels if you are interested.


Doug

[Steelshooter]

Like Kcso says aluminum arrows work pretty good, come in differant sizes and are cheap (5.00?). Copper is a little on the expensive side now but if you know a hvac person they will give you a piece of 3/8 piece of copper but it won't be straight as an arrow.
Could not resist.
Chuck

[Mk42gunner]

I made mine by flaring both ends of a 30" piece of 3/8" soft copper. One end is flared large enough to hold the funnel tightly; the other flare has a major diameter of about a half inch. I did it this way because it did not make any sense to me to use a drop tube, then put in a restriction to slow the settling effect. In use I set the lower end over the case and slowly pour the powder.

Robert

[crossfireoops]

I made mine by flaring both ends of a 30" piece of 3/8" soft copper. One end is flared large enough to hold the funnel tightly; the other flare has a major diameter of about a half inch. I did it this way because it did not make any sense to me to use a drop tube, then put in a restriction to slow the settling effect. In use I set the lower end over the case and slowly pour the powder.

Robert

Jeez, that's a good point........one that I've just never thought of.....

Callin' it a "Drop Tube", ....and than slowing down the fall of the powder don't seem to awful bright.

GTC

[13Echo]

The fall of powder is slowed to allow each grain to settle in the most compact arrangement with each other. Now just how fast the powder can fall and still get good compaction is a question. I typically take about 3 to 5 seconds to pour powder into the funnel on the drop tube. The funnel has a narrow neck and total fall takes about another 3 seconds and it gives excellent compaction. I suspect the 30 seconds or more that some are using will give a bit more, but not enough for me to bother with. At any rate slowing the fall of powder is desirable, at least to a point.

Jerry Liles

[Nardoo]

I have a manual drop tube I made from a 30" length of brass tubing which works just fine. I do not use it now as I purchased a Lyman 55 Classic with drop tube that works just as well. I kind of slowly turn the handle on the measure to drop the powder over about 6 or 8 seconds and I get the same powder height as the manual way.

Best part is it is faster and easier to load and the accuracy of my loads is the same. I love my little Lyman Classic.

Nardoo

[Red River Rick]

Sorry MC, I forgot I posted on this thread.



That means you settle your charges with vibration...and no drop tube...right Rick?



Yes, you are correct. I do not use a drop tube at all when charging my cases.




The most efficient method of doing that (that I've heard about) is to charge enough cases to fill a loading block, and then vibrate the whole block.




Buckshot mentioned that same concept in the Snider thread, after drop tubing his powder. I tried that same idea on my vibrating cleaning, but ended up with nothing more than a big mess. Cases started to rattle around, powder went flying and I was cursing. I think that I invented some new words at that moment.

I'm assuming that, had the case rims fit snugly in the loaded block, things would have probably worked out better. I'll have to machine some new blocks just for the 45-70 case so that I can try that again, without the fancy words.


RRR

[jonk]

The vibration route works well but I've done it one at a time.

I'm planning on building a drop tube soon myself.

[ben1025]

I use 2 basting tubes. ( The tube with a bulb on it used in the kitchen for basting) It has a funnel end which fits in a 45/70 case. You can put as many together for which ever height
you want. I think they are inexpensive. Simple way to drop powder.

[freedom475]

Before I got the "drop tube" sold by Cabela's as a gift I used an "Aluminum arrow shaft" rigged to my bench. The shaft fits into the case, position it just below the case mouth. A reloading funnel fits right on top, it works great.

[jerrold]

Guys, I'm going to make a new drop tube set up and before I do, I'd like to get some ideas from others. Any photos or plans?

You should go with the home made one as described in previous posts.
When I went to get my arrow shaft i stopped at the small local archery and gun shop to buy an arrow. Picked one of the first ones i saw and took it to the counter. The clerk asked me if that was all i wanted. I said yes. He said I would rather not break the dozen. I said i only needed one, he looked at me and said why? I told him why i wanted just the shaft. He said just a second, he turned away and in just a second returned with another arrow. He said this is what you need, i said is it bent, he said no, it's free. True story, i still go in that shop and buy occasionally:castmine::Fire:

[crossfireoops]

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b115/robbinmyers/Droptube1.jpg

Whammo Flea market blow gun $1.00

Flea market C-Clamp .50

Flea Market Bungee .25

Old Mauser Mag Spring .0?

Flea market hose clamp .025
+_________
Very nice 24" drop tube

GTC

[13Echo]

Now that is a clever droptube. Just shows what can be done with imagination.

A droptube itself is simple. It's how the tube is mounted and the case is positioned that requires thought and ingenuity and that one is pure imagination.

I haven't tried the vibrator method and don't have any intention to try. The droptube allows more powder to fit the case than could be poured in directly and does it with utter simplicity. Why complicate things?

Jerry Liles

[Ammohouse]

I made mine out of an old arrow shaft also. I've got a bucket full of "rabbit arrows"...let me know if you want one.
I thought about going all fancy and using a brass or copper tube...but I'm kinda lazy so the arrow shaft was quick and easy.

[montana_charlie]

I've got a bucket full of "rabbit arrows"...
The damaged arrows that I save are called 'Aqua Velva arrows'...
CM

[Ammohouse]

Ok, I was hoping somebody else would ask first....whats "Aqua Velva" arrows?

[montana_charlie]

Say you are stalking a buck that just won't let you get any closer. You are already downwind of him...or he wouldn't be hanging around.
You pull an old dinged-up arrow from your quiver, pour a few drops of Aqua Velva on it from a bottle in your pocket, and launch it way out beyond him.

It will make some noise (when it lands) that attracts his attention and makes him think about moving your way...then he gets wind of that after shave.

If he doesn't come to you, your karma is bad.
CM

[Ammohouse]

Thats crazy enough to work...can I use Old Spice and get the same results? :)

[Bullshop]

I used a milsurp ski pole. They are made of steel and have a taper from top to bottom. They are cheap and easy to find here. Same for ammo cans, 223 size at 3 for a buck and the 50 cal size 2 for a buck. God bless American army bases.
BIC/BS

[montana_charlie]

...can I use Old Spice?
You can use anything that Mr. Buck will find to be foreign to his environment...including armpit sweat. But, that's hard to bottle...
CM

[crossfireoops]

Ya'll know,.....?

One of the definative advantages of drop tubing hasn't been adressed here.

Reverse Duplexing......putting the fast powder right behind the payload, and having the coarse, lower pressure, more uniform powder over the primer.......the closest we'll get to "Progressive burn"....with B>P.

The whole nature of the drop tube process lets the coarse uniform grains land first, and the dusty "Fines" will float down and settle at the top of the charge.

Vibrating will NEVER equal that, or replicate that effect.

GTC

[RBak]

FWIW; I use a 30" homemade brass drop tube, and I also vibrate the whole block by means of an old electric razor that I picked up at a flea market for $0.50........

Nothing fancy at all!
I even made the loading block so the cartridges would fit a little tighter and set directly on top of the Razor with no gap in between.
I vibrate 20 at a time for 15 seconds, and have a small "stop clock" on the bench to help insure they are all done pretty much the same.

It seems to work pretty good, and will get an honest 4 more grains of powder per case w/o compression.

Can't say about the "Reverse Duplexing"....such things are over my head.
But when I do use duplex loads, it is done with a lee dipper on another bench before I move over to the drop tube, and I don't vibrate the cases when I am doing duplex.

Russ...

[crossfireoops]

Guess you've never tried dumping a stout load of 3FG over a moderate charge of 1FG.

Nothing new about that stunt.

1000 yard stuff.

GTC

[crossfireoops]

*** is a "Razor"....?

GTC

[RBak]

*** is a "Razor"....?

GTC

It's an instrument for shaving, for those who do shave.

And, You're right on the money when you say, "Guess you've never tried dumping a stout load of 3FG over a moderate charge of 1FG."...I haven't tried that.

Russ...

[crossfireoops]

"Reverse Duplexing" is as close as what you can get to "Progressive Burn"....with BP

When BP was all you could get, reverse duplex was the HOT ticket,....for long range accuracy.

They had GREAT powder, too.

In the selected Calibers that we choose,....we're shooting one hell of a lot straighter than the sideways "spray / pray" bunch, anyways.

If you haven't tried reverse duplex, in BPCR........NO SMOKELESS,....just bP.

Might be worth a squint.

GTC

[RBak]

Crossfireoops, Would you have any recommended reading on "Reverse Duplexing" for BPCR?
I certainly don't want to hi-jack this thread on BP Drop Tube design, as it has been a very interesting read.
Perhaps another thread is in order to preserve this one.

Russ...

[45 2.1]

In some of the old literature, tri-plexing was done. Lyman even had a powder measure that held all three black powders to do that. One of the major cranks of the day was getting very good results from it also.