Building what im hoping to be the ultimate Alaska single shot.

[Bullshop Junior]

This is going to be a longer project, and as I am doing it I am goin to be asking for tips and advise.

Im 20, and even though I grew up and around guns a lot as a kid, I havn't had guns for about 2 years as all of mine were stolen. Ive been collecting parts and bits to build a couple and am finally getting ro where I can really get into this hobby again.

So my first project is going to be a NEF SB1 frame I picked up for dirt cheap from a
Local guy who found it under the spare tire of a car he got on craigslist for free. It had the broken stock sawed into a pistol grip, was covered in rust, and had a tracker 2 rifled 12ga barrel on it. Unfortanatly I dont have a before poc, but it was UGLY.

So to start, i tried shooting it. It went bang, the pistol grip ripped my hand open, and i stuck it in the closet. More recently i pulled it out, sanded the rust off, and started to inspect it. Reciever has light pitting but not very much. Same with the barrel. The end of the barrel was actually smashed part way oval so thats where the project begins....

Today i started working on it. I got out my hacksaw and sawed off the barrel at 18.75 inch. I am horrible with a hacksaw so i gave myself pleanty of extra.

(More to come - my phone is acting up and i dont wanna lose what ai have wrote)

[Bullshop Junior]

Here is a pic of my hacksaw cut (its dreadful...although its better then all the pitting the last 8" had inside)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/30/ugujynu7.jpg

After wards i looked everywhere for my big flat file to smooth it up and couldnt find it. Infact the only file I could find was a chainsaw file so considering that, im pleased with how it turned out. When i get time im gonna the it to the shop amd give it a proper crown on a lathe.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/30/4avahyte.jpg

And that leads to my first question. Putting back on the front sight. I tried my hand at soldering and failed miserably several times. Unfortanatly, i like to do things myself, so whats the proper way to solder the sight back on? Or is there other ways to do it? Would JB weld work? A good epoxy?

Anyway. Thats as far as I got tonight. Im gonna try fitting the stock next, although i just set it up to it here for the pic.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/30/aredysag.jpg

In the end, i think i want to parkarize it, or are there better things out there now?

[T-Man]

Nice project. I would get me some DuraCoat and have at it. I would also jig that barrel up and drill and tap it for a rail and mount a reflex red dot on it.

[Bullshop Junior]

I dont think that there is enough metal to drill and tap it.

[Bullshop Junior]

My first attempt at trying to soulder on a gun sight. Let it cool down and see how it turned out. (Yes, i did it in the kitchen. I clamped the barrel to the table, no my wife will not find out)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/01/4a7azaqy.jpg
Unfortanatly, this gun is probably gonna move on down the road monday. Someone offered me $150 for it as is, and im badly hurting for money, so I'm probably gonna let it go.

[Bullshop Junior]

I guess i need to work on my souldering skills some. Got it cleaned up, and gave it a push with my thumb nd it snapped right off. Back to the drawing bourd...

[reed1911]

For 150.00 as is? I'd fall all over myself to give it up at that. You can find a great condition one for that kind of money, or find another beater and use the rests of the funds for improvements.

[Bullshop Junior]

Yea. I only paid $20 for this one. It is kinda hard to find the rifled ones around here, but i will keep looking. I dont make it a habit to sell guns, but this is turning a 650% profit...

[Bullshop Junior]

On a sidenote, I did fit the ATI stock today. Before, it had about 1/8" play around the bottom, and with the bolt all the way as tight as it would go, it sill would slid up and down about 3/16" at the reciever. Using the same technique i used on the last one of these I fitted (these is a theead abour it product reviews) i got this one pretty dang near perfect.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/01/sy7u6ere.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/01/ymu5ame9.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/01/2e2yte5e.jpg

[Bullshop Junior]

Here is a pic of it all assembled. That tape measurer is locked at 3'.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/01/5a4u8era.jpg

With the stock in the shortest position, it is over all 29&7/8" and locked in the longest position it is 33&3/4".

[Artful]

Nice job on the stock - Handy little tooth loosener. If the guy wants to shoot it first use low base bird shot don't let him try it with high brass slugs or you might lose the sale.

[Bullshop Junior]

Yea. I was thinking about reaming it out to 3.5 until I touched off one of the 3" federal magnum 1.25oz power shok slugs. Its staying at 3"

[Bullshop Junior]

If the guy doesnt buy it (wont hurt my feelings if he doesnt-ive been wanting to build it like this for awhile), the next step is gonna be finish. I originally wanted to parkarize it, but ive heard some good stuff about some of the coating methods as well. So havnt totoally made up my mind. I kinda built it since i spend a lot of time screwing around in the woods, and i figured i would rather have a few loose teeth then be a pile of bear dung. Once i can get my hands on some 3" brass cases, I wanna load it up with full bore slugs and aee what I can handle.

[Bullshop Junior]

Nice job on the stock - Handy little tooth loosener. If the guy wants to shoot it first use low base bird shot don't let him try it with high brass slugs or you might lose the sale.

Birdshot doesnt do well with this gun. Since its rifled it sprays out really bad and I can barley hit a car at 10 feet. With buckshot, i can hit maybe three pellets at 10 yards on the car. It does really good with slugs though.

[Bullshop Junior]

Nice project. I would get me some DuraCoat and have at it. I would also jig that barrel up and drill and tap it for a rail and mount a reflex red dot on it.

Have you ever done the duracoat? I had a 1894 Marlin in 357 that had a camo pattern duracoat on it, and it was horrible. The paint would litteraly just flake off in clunks the size of a quarter. I dont know if it was done wrong, but kinda turned me off on the duracoat

[koehlerrk]

Yea. I was thinking about reaming it out to 3.5 until I touched off one of the 3" federal magnum 1.25oz power shok slugs. Its staying at 3"

Don't do that. 2-3/4" and 3" shells max out at 11,500 psi where the 3-1/2" shells run up to 14,000 psi. Yes, it's only 2,500 more psi, which isn't much in a rifle, but it's a 22% overpressure in a shotgun.

[Bullshop Junior]

Don't do that. 2-3/4" and 3" shells max out at 11,500 psi where the 3-1/2" shells run up to 14,000 psi. Yes, it's only 2,500 more psi, which isn't much in a rifle, but it's a 22% overpressure in a shotgun.

Im not too worried about pressure, as NEF chambers both 3.5" 12ga and 10ga on this frame. And if it is a issue ill swap it to one of my SB2 frames.

[gnoahhh]

Ok, so the frame will take it, but will that particular barrel take it if opened up to 3½"? Best leave it alone.

To solder that sight on, first clean off what you have already done. On the bottom of the sight and the top of the barrel, polish the contact areas with sandpaper. (The two surfaces are a flush tight fit to each other, right?) Coat with flux. Heat separately with a torch. Apply solder- a little dab will do ya. Wipe solder off while still hot/molten. This process is called 'tinning'. Then when both pieces have cooled down, clamp them together just the way they are. Don't add any more solder than the wash coat that is left on after wiping. Use a #2 pencil to darken the area around the sight you don't want solder to flow to and stick. While clamped, heat the whole works with the torch until you see a little solder flow out of the joint. Stop. Let cool, un-clamp and clean/polish to your heart's content.

Better yet, take the $150 and run.

[rattletrap1970]

Zinc parkerizing would look cool with the black hardware. I do parking, but you can buy the solution from brownells, have someone weld together a stainless trough to cook it in and have the metal blasted.

[Bullshop Junior]

I was gonna sandblast it here sometime very soon. I already welded up a cooking tank.

[w5pv]

Take the $150.00 and run it looks like a liability to me.

[rattletrap1970]

Well then you're all set. Parkerizing (or rather Phosphateing) is sooooper simple. Watch what you're doing, you'll ger professional results odds are, on your first time out. I did.

[orangezuk]

Well first off, situation and all for ya. If the guy comes through take the 150$ and run.

Second on the finish.
*Duracoat works very well when applied properly; clean parts, air sprayer & baked.
*Parkerizing; easy well wearing finish, but some solutions may be costly if only finishing one gun as they "go bad" over time. (some types, do your research)
*Bang for the buck on a "truck gun". Head down the auto parts/home store and find a epoxy spray paint. Find a color/finish that suits and paint away. Tough finish that can be touched up any time it's ever needed. (I like the brake caliper paint)

[rattletrap1970]

I've had a solution in a tough for over a year. I do maybe a gun a month. All I do is top off the water, and add a half dollar size piece of 0000 degreased steel wool and let it dissolve (that re-activates the solution). It is the cheapest and by far easiest method of getting a finish on a gun that I have ever used.