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Mel-4857
08-25-2005, 10:21 PM
Well went to try some the ideas put forward. Maven , sized the nose and first 2 bands of the 6.5 Kurtz and got the boolits to seat out farther. Loaded up some with 18gr 4227 and the others with 355 Surp18gr ,19gr,20grand21gr. The boolits were seated into the rifling.All shot at 50yds. The 4227 load looked good til last shot a flier. The 335 looked best at 19gr then opened up after that. The 19gr load clocked at 1400 fps. The velocity on the 20 and21 gr loads really jumped around. After the first ten rounds I ran a dry patch down the bore and found no lead but 335 burns dirty. Ran a patch at the end and found the bore tight and lead speckles. So I ran a couple patchs cut from a Pro shot lead clean cloth and got several lead slivers and lots of gunk.Should the bullets be harder or seated off the lands?

StarMetal
08-25-2005, 11:23 PM
Mel

Something going on there if you're getting alittle leading and slivers at 1400 fps and little above that. Did you water quench your alloy? If so did you let the bullets age a week or so before testing them? My problem with my 260 Rem is getting the accuracy at 100 yards that I want. I've had the velocity pretty high up there and using a 60/40 and 50/50 ww/lead alloy with bullets that are water quenched and others that are oven heated water quenched and not get any leading at all, not even specks. I get the same accuracy witht he bullets fat nose seated hard into the throat or sizing and getting it into the rifling. I want to try some different powder then I have tried so far.

Joe

Mel-4857
08-26-2005, 12:19 AM
Hi Starmetal. The leading could have caused some of the velocity jumps on the last groups. The bullets were as cast of wheelweights.Nose sized .264 and the rest as cast.269.Lube was equal parts beeswax,vaseline, paraffin and several teaspoons of 90wt oil. Boolits were panlubed. Guess I'll have to water drop or oven harden some and go from there. Mel

StarMetal
08-26-2005, 12:44 AM
Mel,

If you water quench either by drop from the mould or over, let them set a week and two is better. A better lube is beeswax, ATF oil, and either lithium or calsium soap base grease. Might have to add a tad of parafin depending on how soft your mix comes out from adding too much of the two greases I mentioned. I merely use the ATF oil to melt the grease in, most the lube is beeswax. Javelina is really good commercial lube. Buckshot and I both use that. It's good I think up to 2400, but don't quote me. Buckshot might chime in here as he had Javelina going pretty good in a rifle I can't remember.

Joe

KCSO
08-26-2005, 09:09 AM
Shooting the 6.5x55 my gun groups most loads pretty good at 50 it's 100 and beyond where the problems show up. It would be interesting to see the same loads at 100 and see just how much increase there is in dispertion.

Mel-4857
08-26-2005, 03:20 PM
Starmetal could you give me an idea of the proportions of your lube. Will it melt in a double boiler? KCSO the first groups I tried; at 50yds they held together but blew apart at 100yds. Lots of playing to do. Definitely going to try heat treating some and let them sit for a while. Got to get some 30 cal and 8mm cast for a postal shoot. Mel

StarMetal
08-26-2005, 04:00 PM
Mel

Yessir, lube receipe is in a private message to you. Let me know how you do with it.

Joe

Mel-4857
08-26-2005, 05:10 PM
Thanks for the data Starmetal.Will try to make a batch this weekend. I knew the 6.5 Swede would be a challenge but that's part of the FUN ?? Mel

Bret4207
08-27-2005, 07:14 AM
Mel- Search the archives for FELIX LUBE. The guys here developed it and everyone who's tried is in love with it. Starmetal has his own recipe too.