Color Coated Rifle Bullets (MCC2)

[WiederladerTV]

Some month ago I posted my recipe for color coated bullets on Youtube (http://youtu.be/uiFxAPtx4c0) and I was very happy with the result...but not happy enough to stopp using the little thing on top of my neck.

So I tested new materials for the coated boolitz and I create a new recipe which is cheaper, faster to apply, more durable and works fantastic in all my handguns. After 100-200 rounds of the new MCC2 bullets my Barrel was clean and shiny...so why not give it a try for rifle bullets???

Today I produce the first 50 rounds in .309. I wanna test them in my FR8 (Spanish Mauser) with 13gr of IMR Trail Boss. This should be enough to reach round about 1400fps. If it works I'll increase the load (not Trail Boss) and test velocities of 1800fps, 2000fps, 2200fps and so on. The Goal is an Level of 2900-3000fps if everything is working good.

85077

Are you interested in videos of these testings? If you, I'll make some of the testing. I would like to shoot 50 rounds with each load and after this I check the Barrel etc. If everything works fine I'am happy to share the recipe with you at the end if not I damage not more than an old FR8...and maybee you see a kaboom on Video :popcorn:
I'll start testing next week.

So if you interested please leave a comment.

[SDGarrick]

how does this method differ from some of the powder coating methods on the site?

[AlaskanGuy]

Welcome to the site..... I wanna see your experiment...

AG

[why.kyle]

I'm interested! Is this still an epoxy based coating like from your video? Or something totally new?

[Ausglock]

I see you are still using gas checks, So it sort of defeats the purpose of coating.

[jmort]

"If everything works fine I'am happy to share the recipe with you at the end if not I damage not more than an old FR8...and maybee you see a kaboom on Video
I'll start testing next week."

I have watched your "Color Coated Bullets" video three times. Would probably watch your next video at least three times. Very interested. Really nice having you here. In fact you were here in spirit even before you joined us. That is how I found out about Wiederlader TV.

[dbosman]

Yes, yes, da, you bet, youbetcha, absolutely, and YES!
Welcome to the site too.

[Balta]

O yes....already subscribed at your channel.

[cpileri]

I am also interested. I have seen your videos on youtube: basically a tumble coating. What did you do to make it easier?
Yes, still epoxy? which kind?
Does the epoxy (or whatever) allow even distribution of the hexagonal boron nitride for coating/lube?

I have some young female shooters who would LOVE to be able to color their bullets!

C-

[DanWalker]

Yes, Interested to see if you can get to 3000 fps and get decent usable accuracy.

[dverna]

If you can get over 2500 fps, with accuracy, you will have a great product. Hi-Tek has not proven itself accurate at high velocities. Powder coating seems to be better but is a pain to use (IMHO).

I for one would be ecstatic to have a gas checked cast bullet that runs like a jacketed bullet. If the GC can be eliminated, that is great, but a GC is not a deal killer if it is needed. Just my opinion.


Pretty colors are an attraction to many but meaningless to rifle shooters who demand performance. I do not care what color it is if it works.

Don Verna

PS If you can get a good coating with one iteration that is a plus. The shake and bake two or three times for HT is a negative for some of us. HT is nice because you do not need to stand every bullet up. PC is a pain due to the mess of over spray and the need to stand up every bullet just so (or in a jig of some sort) to coat evenly and then transfer to the oven without toppling any - but at least you only need to do it once.

[bangerjim]

Welcome! I really enjoyed your video on coating and that actually got me very interested in the processes and developing others.

I would welcome a video on your new process. I have a reluctance in using something like hex boron and cannot find it locally so I really do not want to use it. I try to source all my materials locally to keep the money in Arizona! I own a business here and support other businesses here as much as possible.

Please post any info you wish to share!

Best regards,

bangerjim

[WiederladerTV]

Ok guys so I'll will make an Video about These test shootings. Like I told you I'll start next week. If it works with 1400fps I'll make further test Shootings with higher velocites. It took a Little bit of time because I can shoot only one time a week. I think it doesn't make sence to post a single Video for every test so I make one with the 1400fps and then I'll make one with all the higher velocites later. After every test Shooting I wanna use a bore camera to check the Barrel so you can see Barrel fowling or not.


To give you the answer about the bullets. I only use GC because the bullet is made for it. After testing different velocites I'll test them without a GC to see if there is a difference in accuracy and Barrel fowling or not.

The coating still based on an epoxy but without a dry lubricant. I apply the epoxy by tumble lube method two times. After the first coat I let them air dry and only cure them in the oven after the last coating. Then I apply the "lube" a very cheap solution normaly used in the household. Size them when dry and repeat the "lube" process. That's it.

Powder coating bullets works great but you have to place every single bullet on a tray...enough space to each bullet so the powder covers every part of the bullet. A Little shake and a bullet drop of the tray and you have to repeat the hole process. Further you waste more powder. This increase the cost for the coating. Just my 50 Cents.

[KYShooter73]

I'm using the electrostatic powder coat now and prefer it because you only bake once. Tumble coating is much easier but I don't like the multiple coating and baking cycles. If you are only baking once I'm very interested.

[Bullshop Junior]

I'm not really understanding how this is better/ faster then just a good boolit lube. A lubrisizer machine is pretty fast. I have shot thousands of cast boolits with a good lube at higher velocity with good accuracy and no fouling. I never ever cleaned my Remington 788 223 and all I shot from it was cast, with speed green lube and I shot some pretty hot loads.

[xacex]

I'm not really understanding how this is better/ faster then just a good boolit lube. A lubrisizer machine is pretty fast. I have shot thousands of cast boolits with a good lube at higher velocity with good accuracy and no fouling. I never ever cleaned my Remington 788 223 and all I shot from it was cast, with speed green lube and I shot some pretty hot loads.

Well, lets see if I can change that perspective for you. You cast, heat treat, and lube 1000 boolits for your last session. It took about the same time as PC, or one of these other methods, and you put up your boolits for the year.8 months from now you notice accuracy dropping off with your hot (for cast) rifle load. It could be your lube getting brittle, but most likely it is your boolit hardness. So you shoot your remaining boolits knowing that you have lost accuracy, and can do nothing about it. But, if you went ahead and PC'd those boolits, heat treated afterwards, and put them up you notice the same thing that your accuracy dropped off after 8 month. But here is the difference, you can re-heat treat the P/C boolits and bring them back to where they shot great. Not only that, but you can color coat for different loads, don't have deal with the smoke with traditional lubes, don't have to clean up your seating die from lube and lead, reduce your lead contact when loading and shooting, and well besides being cheaper than a lube sizer it is easy.

I know it is not for everyone, but it does have some advantages.

[DanWalker]

I cast and water drop, and tumble lube with 45/45/10. I don't get ANY buildup in my seating die because I don't GOB it on like Tammy Fae Baker putting on mascara. I get the same velocities(2200 fps) as people who are doing this PC process. I can lube 1000 boolits in about 10 minutes this way. I'm sure PC is fun and yet another facet of our hobbby. I just don't see it offering any advantages over how I'm lubing boolits now.

[Echd]

Your videos are great. As an avid powder coat convert I'd be glad to see any alternative methods you can come up with.

[Echd]

I cast and water drop, and tumble lube with 45/45/10. I don't get ANY buildup in my seating die because I don't GOB it on like Tammy Fae Baker putting on mascara. I get the same velocities(2200 fps) as people who are doing this PC process. I can lube 1000 boolits in about 10 minutes this way. I'm sure PC is fun and yet another facet of our hobbby. I just don't see it offering any advantages over how I'm lubing boolits now.

I always had great luck with tumble lubing and never had any leading problems. PC isn't a lot of extra work (for me) and gets rid of the messiness. I just lay a cookie sheet out on the ground, spray it, bake it, and done. I can size and load them as soon as they cool off, and I don't get that gunk on my fingers or have to smell it.

That said I still TL some plinker bullets I make in mass quantities, but I love my PC stuff.

[popper]

Plus I haven't noticed the first shot flyer with a cold barrel. With colder weather coming on I'll test more to verify, in rifle. So far with the heat here I haven't noticed it, even with a clean or really uncleaned bore - but then the bore doesn't get very dirty.

[dverna]

I'm not really understanding how this is better/ faster then just a good boolit lube. A lubrisizer machine is pretty fast. I have shot thousands of cast boolits with a good lube at higher velocity with good accuracy and no fouling. I never ever cleaned my Remington 788 223 and all I shot from it was cast, with speed green lube and I shot some pretty hot loads.

You are not alone. But many people can not achieve good results with high velocity and traditional lubes. I have been chastised for seeing little value in any coating for pistol bullets - but others do see value in it - so one size does not fit all. We each have issues, needs or desires that make one solution better than another. That does means one way is right for everyone.

Perspective also enters into this. If all you have every done is pan lube, coating is heaven. If you have a Star, you get spoiled by high production rates and anything else looks slow. Again, no one "best" answer.

Lastly, some people just like being different. Look at all the comments about "pretty bullets". You would think we were an old ladies bridge club-----LOL. Then there are people like me who do not give a damn about looks if the little ******** shoot accurately.

I do not coat --- yet. But I find these very interesting threads. Coatings seem to hold the best promise for getting cast bullets to a new level of performance.

Don Verna

[DanWalker]

I do not coat --- yet. But I find these very interesting threads. Coatings seem to hold the best promise for getting cast bullets to a new level of performance.

Don Verna
I agree. I don't see where they have trodden new ground velocity wise, but I think the potential is there. I always read this stuff, hoping someone has had a breakthrough. The idea of full jacketed velocity and terminal performance, with cast boolits is the HOLY GRAIL as far as I am concerned. I will be among the first to congratulate the intrepid soul who acheives this.

[jaysouth]

works for me

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l222/jwsoutherland/P7080010_zpsb8ffa1e4.jpg (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/jwsoutherland/media/P7080010_zpsb8ffa1e4.jpg.html)

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l222/jwsoutherland/P7080009_zps7785ebae.jpg (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/jwsoutherland/media/P7080009_zps7785ebae.jpg.html)

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l222/jwsoutherland/P7080005_zps13b072aa.jpg (http://s97.photobucket.com/user/jwsoutherland/media/P7080005_zps13b072aa.jpg.html)

[DanWalker]

works for me.

At what velocity? You pushing those 30's and 35's to over 2400 fps? What kind of accuracy you getting at 100 yards with them? Is the alloy suitable for hunting? I'm not trying to be disparaging. I just haven't seen ANYONE post results with these methods, good enough to make me go buy the gear and start spraying rifle boolits with it.

[xacex]

At what velocity? You pushing those 30's and 35's to over 2400 fps? What kind of accuracy you getting at 100 yards with them? Is the alloy suitable for hunting? I'm not trying to be disparaging. I just haven't seen ANYONE post results with these methods, good enough to make me go buy the gear and start spraying rifle boolits with it.

Poppers posted his groups from the 308 that were 2400+fps that were pretty good if you ask me. I think it is also about finding the right boolit for the gun before you go paintin goo on it. I know it can be done I just haven't had the time to load a bunch and find what works best. I did get my 45 acp load down however, and it shoots as good as a premium jacketed boolit. Not bad for some junk lead,paint, and a good Mihec mold.

[popper]

DanWalker - MOA @ 100, 2400+ from an AR 308 carbine, not a BR gun. Alloy is ~3% Sb with some Cu added, 31-165B from accurate. I didn't do a chamber cast or anything, just lucked out. Doesn't break after hitting with a 6# hammer so yes it should be a good hunting CB. PC just works, consistently.
edit: This is a hodgdon jacketed max load of 4895 or 335, 16" bbl. A 24" hunting bbl should get ~2700 with this load. Pretty close to max from a 308. Hope to get to switch to the 24" upper toward the end of the year. We'll see if the accuracy holds.

[jaysouth]

With a .308 and a Leupold set on 9X, I get 2 inches at 100 yards at 2,200 fps with wheel weight alloy.

With a .30-30 and iron sights or red dot, I get minute of stop sign (aren't all deer rifles sighted in on stop signs according to anti-gun and anti-hunting liberals?) at 1,800-1,900 fps.

Next week I will be hunting deer and let you know how they performed, however, I might not get test case on powder coated bullets, my max shot on the current hunting are is 50 yards.

[jaysouth]

At what velocity? You pushing those 30's and 35's to over 2400 fps? What kind of accuracy you getting at 100 yards with them? Is the alloy suitable for hunting? I'm not trying to be disparaging. I just haven't seen ANYONE post results with these methods, good enough to make me go buy the gear and start spraying rifle boolits with it.

My "gear" is a half gallon plastic container, lacquer thinner, powder coat and a toaster oven I rescued from the garage.

[DanWalker]

NOW we're talking! Keep it coming fellas. Can't wait to see more results from this...

[Echd]

NOW we're talking! Keep it coming fellas. Can't wait to see more results from this...

Got you covered, buddy- here's my first PC boolits I ever shot! It's nothing too fancy but I have been shooting them faster and faster since then with no problems at all.

Finally chrono'd and I have been pushing boolits at up to 2450 from this setup- I have no need or desire to hotrod it, and sure, you CAN do it with traditional lubes, but at that sort of velocity you really do start to see some leading no matter what, in my experience.

http://i.imgur.com/VXMNtn2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7QyBdi1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gakAcCf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/YE3B2AL.jpg

These were the first 6 shots (first was to gauge how "on" the sights were, other 5 were for group- they just happened to be very close together!). Load was just a bottom of the book jacketed bullet load for 150gr data. Bullet was the Lee SKS bullet. I do not use gas checks on these. Distance was measured to be exactly 62 yards afterwards. It's not amazing shooting or amazing distance, but it's good shooting for irons with a commie gun for a bad shot!

I have shot plain lead accurately in this gun before, but generally it was a nasty smoky affair and while this gun was fine with it, my SKSes were a lot more tempermental. I get perfect function by virtue of being able to use jacketed data, and that's a huge plus to PC for me in autoloaders. Not that you can't get that without PC- you certainly can- but it's a lot easier in my experience.

Is this conclusive or saying that lubes don't work? Not hardly, but I've been having great luck with them in this and other guns and I've shot great groups with traditional lube too. Maybe I'll get some pics of the groups my Contender in .30-30 and .44 have been getting sometime this week!

[el34]

Lastly, some people just like being different. Look at all the comments about "pretty bullets". You would think we were an old ladies bridge club-----LOL. Then there are people like me who do not give a damn about looks if the little ******** shoot accurately.
Don Verna

I'm one of the old ladies, except I'm not an old lady. No doubt 'pretty boolits' looks way beyond silly to many. After the primary objective of excellent functionality is secured it can then be a secondary part of the fun of shooting. I like hotsauce on about everything but not for nutritional value.

I'm mostly a handgun shooter and have a goal to use PC to get 357mag full jacketed velocity from my homemade boolits. I'm making them black, but shiny black because I like it better than flat.

On second thought maybe I am an old lady! :-P

[Bullshop Junior]

I'm one of the old ladies, except I'm not an old lady. No doubt 'pretty boolits' looks way beyond silly to many. After the primary objective of excellent functionality is secured it can then be a secondary part of the fun of shooting. I like hotsauce on about everything but not for nutritional value.

I'm mostly a handgun shooter and have a goal to use PC to get 357mag full jacketed velocity from my homemade boolits. I'm making them black, but shiny black because I like it better than flat.

On second thought maybe I am an old lady! :-P

With the 357 there should be no issue getting full power jacketed loads to shoot with just a regular lube. I have shot a lot of 357 and other handguns full bore with lead and no issues even with a plain base bullet.

I don't know, but for me, if you have something that works I tend to stick with it. If I remember correctly my pet load for my 223 was shooting a 55gn cast at 2900fps with no issues as far as leading/fouling

[el34]

With the 357 there should be no issue getting full power jacketed loads to shoot with just a regular lube. I have shot a lot of 357 and other handguns full bore with lead and no issues even with a plain base bullet.


Thanks. I've never tried to top out my cast loads simply because forever the load data for lead is gentler than for jacketed. And I don't have a chrono.

Too many tests to do, too little time. At least for now

[prickett]

The coating still based on an epoxy but without a dry lubricant. I apply the epoxy by tumble lube method two times. After the first coat I let them air dry and only cure them in the oven after the last coating. Then I apply the "lube" a very cheap solution normaly used in the household. Size them when dry and repeat the "lube" process. That's it.

Powder coating bullets works great but you have to place every single bullet on a tray...enough space to each bullet so the powder covers every part of the bullet. A Little shake and a bullet drop of the tray and you have to repeat the hole process. Further you waste more powder. This increase the cost for the coating. Just my 50 Cents.

Welcome WiederladerTV. Quite a few of us watched your original video and were inspired to use Klass Kote epoxy paint to achieve the same results as you were getting. We all seemed to come to the same conclusion that adding the dry lube was an unnecessary step, though, with most of us skipping it. Also, the oven cure is purely optional, as letting it air dry also works, though it takes longer.

With regards to powder coating, you are addressing powder coating using a spray gun. But, there is a tumble application as well. Mixing powder paint with lacquer thinner gives a paint similar to epoxy paint - though it DOES require oven curing. That method, I find, is a bit easier than the Klass Kote method. And, using Harbor Freight paint (around $5/lb) is VERY inexpensive to do. You can find threads talking about this method (look for Piglet Coating).

Once again, welcome. I am looking forward to hearing the results of your experiments!

[popper]

Echd - good shooting. Wish these old eyes could do that, I have to use a scope. If that's 7.62x39 it's already hot rodded (2450 x 150 gr, no GC). I think we are building a good amount of evidence that coated boolits work extremely well for HV rifle and have advantages. We need to focus on technique, fps & accuracy reporting, let the naysayers do whatever they want.

[DanWalker]

As with all things scientific, your results must be repeatable by anyone using your methods. I'm sure we've ALL run into our share of "500 yard 1/2 MOA" rifle BS artists. That's why documentation is so important. I really want to see this stuff work. I want to watch those boxes of 30 caliber nosler partitions gather dust on my shelf, as I abandon them for a superior cast boolit.

[WiederladerTV]

With regards to powder coating, you are addressing powder coating using a spray gun. But, there is a tumble application as well. Mixing powder paint with lacquer thinner gives a paint similar to epoxy paint - though it DOES require oven curing. That method, I find, is a bit easier than the Klass Kote method. And, using Harbor Freight paint (around $5/lb) is VERY inexpensive to do. You can find threads talking about this method (look for Piglet Coating).

Once again, welcome. I am looking forward to hearing the results of your experiments!

Sounds great. Have to try it. Thanks brother.

Today I wanna reload my first 50 rounds for the test.
I shake my Hornady One Shot lube and spray it on the brass. I've wait for roud about five minutes and then I would start sizing my .308 brass. Here you can see the result of the first case...

85455

***!!!

Now I Need a new sizing die. So I Need a Little bit more time for the first test and Video...sorry guys.

[Echd]

Been there, done that!

I try to stay away from the aerosol lubes for rifle cases or anything that needs some real leverage. I sometimes spritz a bit on large batches of handgun or straightwall rifle brass just to smooth up the operation, though!

[WiederladerTV]

@Echd

You're ammo Looks like a libstick from my wife...fantastic. The results on target are great.
Thanks for sharing your pics with us.

[WiederladerTV]

Been there, done that!

I try to stay away from the aerosol lubes for rifle cases or anything that needs some real leverage. I sometimes spritz a bit on large batches of handgun or straightwall rifle brass just to smooth up the operation, though!

I'll stay away from this stuff in future too.

[prickett]

Now I Need a new sizing die.

Or one of these: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/605425/rcbs-stuck-case-remover-2

[dromia]

I recommend Hornady Unique case sizing lube. Cheap, £4 for a 4oz tub and every bit as good if not better than Imperial sizing wax.

I stay away from spray lubes.

[MBTcustom]

OK I have resized quite a bit of 7.62 LC match brass that was apparently fired in a 50 BMG machinegun LOL!
I am no stranger to your plight.
Take that die and unscrew the keeper off the decapping pin.
Take it out of the press and screw it back in upside down (ie, screw it up through the press)
Put a piece of steel, or a quarter, on the ram to act as a pusher, and ram the case out of the die with the decapping pin.
First time I did this, I figured "WTH, I've got a lathe right here, I'll just make a new one!" but RCBS surprised me with their quality because to date, I have removed three stuck cases this way. Give it a try! YMMV.

BTW, I'm looking for a toaster oven. Just spent a few hours today with GRrifles, and he taught me how to do it. This is about as easy as breathin, and the boolits look pretty awesome too!
I'm going to see how they run in my M1A, and If I can get god accuracy out of this, then I'm going to be one powder coating fool!

[geargnasher]

I see no real disadvantage to needing gas checks, the advantage of the PC vs. traditional lube lies elsewhere as Popper mentioned (consistent POI through wide temp range, no problematic cold-barrel flyers, no lube melting out of cases in the heat, etc.) Gas checks would be a small price to pay for a more consistent method of HV boolit lubrication.

Gear

[jmort]

"I recommend Hornady Unique case sizing lube"

Natural non-toxic and works. Takes very little to work and easy to remove from brass.

[Expat74]

still got the case stuck in the die?

[dverna]

I see no real disadvantage to needing gas checks, the advantage of the PC vs. traditional lube lies elsewhere as Popper mentioned (consistent POI through wide temp range, no problematic cold-barrel flyers, no lube melting out of cases in the heat, etc.) Gas checks would be a small price to pay for a more consistent method of HV boolit lubrication.

Gear

EXACTLY!!!!

You can make GC's pretty inexpensively and for me,, if they make the bullet work, - NO problem. People can lose sight of things when they only focus on saving a bit of money. Performance is the key.

Don Verna

[waco]

I'm not really understanding how this is better/ faster then just a good boolit lube. A lubrisizer machine is pretty fast. I have shot thousands of cast boolits with a good lube at higher velocity with good accuracy and no fouling. I never ever cleaned my Remington 788 223 and all I shot from it was cast, with speed green lube and I shot some pretty hot loads.

ummm......yep......

[bassbogan]

WeiderLaderTV G'day from Australia!

I'd very much like to see the results of your MCC v2.0 formula on 'full power' rifle rounds. For those of us that live in firearm unfriendly countries (Australia) the price of anything firearm related is 2-3 times more expensive then the USA (even more than 3 times expensive in some cases) due to the 'low density market'. Being able to make cheap accurate ammunition is the only way some of us can afford to participate in a sport we love. Not looking for bench rest accuracy but if this concept can produce 1 MOA or slightly under 1 MOA accuracy for 75%+ standard velocity rifle rounds, I'd consider that mission accomplished. Obviously this has a lot to do with the firearm from which it is fired I guess but if you did a comparison with a common jacked round and the MCC 2.0 rounds of the same bullet design/weight that would be a good starting point as that is what you are trying to emulate (at a substantially cheaper cost). Subscribed to your youtube channel and keep up the good work!

[ebner glocken]

Sounds great. Have to try it. Thanks brother.

Today I wanna reload my first 50 rounds for the test.
I shake my Hornady One Shot lube and spray it on the brass. I've wait for roud about five minutes and then I would start sizing my .308 brass. Here you can see the result of the first case...

85455

***!!!

Now I Need a new sizing die. So I Need a Little bit more time for the first test and Video...sorry guys.

I wouldn't chuck that die in the trash just yet. Pull the decapping pin, drill out the primer pocket, tap it. Use two washers on the end of a socket and make a puller out of it. I personally use 1/4-20 bolts as my pullers. Cheap china bolts generally don't work. Grade 8 will. Most of us probably already have the tools necessary to do this. A shot of penetrating oil helps much.

Ebner

[WiederladerTV]

Sorry guys...it took a Long time...I know.
Had to work a lot...sorry sorry sorry.

Yesterday I've tested the new bullets and make a Video I've uploaded some minutes ago:

http://youtu.be/XqVgeR_CMBI

Hope you like it.

And sorry again!!!

[AlaskanGuy]

Nice job on the video.....

Can you tell me your cleaning procedure after you shot? How did it come out?

AG

Also, try bagbalm for your cases as a case lube before you size.... Just a dab will do ya...

[WiederladerTV]

After Shooting I use to clean my guns with Hoppe's #9...removes all the dirt. The patch come out full of carbon like it would come out when Shooting "regular" bullets. I never notice real paint particles.

Thanks for the hint with the bagbalm...I found it at Amazon.de...not very expensive. I'll give it a try brother.

[338RemUltraMag]

If someone is willing to send me some 312-155-2R boolits pc'd I would pay for em and do an honest high velocity test. I have a cz 527 that will print an honest 3/4 inch at 100 yards. They dont need sized or checked I can do that, but I would need about a hundred of em.

Just trying to help, this interests me to no end but I am "on the fence"

Josh

[bassbogan]

Saw the new vid WeiderLader, looks pretty damn good and great shooting. It will be very interesting to see how the boolits progress with the higher velocities. Also would be interesting to see if this concept works with .223 ammo as I've noticed that not many people seem to cast .223 so unsure if anyone has tried powder coating or epoxy paints like this.

[DCM]

I agree. I don't see where they have trodden new ground velocity wise, but I think the potential is there. I always read this stuff, hoping someone has had a breakthrough. The idea of full jacketed velocity and terminal performance, with cast boolits is the HOLY GRAIL as far as I am concerned. I will be among the first to congratulate the intrepid soul who acheives this.

http://www.lbtmoulds.com/books.shtml

It has been done many times with different lubes and coatings.

[rsoper]

***!!!

Now I Need a new sizing die. So I Need a Little bit more time for the first test and Video...sorry guys.[/QUOTE]

no prob.sharpen a framing nail,tap it under the edge of the brass. the brass will fall out. no damage, the nail is stronger than brass and softer than the die.

[DRNurse1]

I cast and water drop, and tumble lube with 45/45/10. I don't get ANY buildup in my seating die because I don't GOB it on like Tammy Fae Baker putting on mascara. I get the same velocities(2200 fps) as people who are doing this PC process. I can lube 1000 boolits in about 10 minutes this way. I'm sure PC is fun and yet another facet of our hobbby. I just don't see it offering any advantages over how I'm lubing boolits now.

I tested about 100 pistol boolits I cast then another member coated for me against the same casting session and my standard loads. I bench rested the 10 ring x 10 rounds with my standard load at 50 yards Conventional pistol B-6 target. Then I shot 5 round groups with increasing powder loads (+0.2 grains) until the accuracy fell off. this took a bit because the point of aim/ point of impact had to be scoped. The outcome: best 10 shot group with the coated boolits: +22% (just inside the 9 ring) at 50 yards

I forgot to change out my ammo and rushed off to the range last week with 10 rounds of my usual loads and 50 of the coated boolits. I shot the coated stuff and after changing my point of aim (10 clicks up!!!) I did okay. I noticed an 'odor' shooting indoor, but the smoke burden was MUCH less than my regular loads.

So, I will continue with my current process for the competition booolits and test drive this powder coating/ epoxy coating process for other things (maybe my daughter's boolits). I hope other Bullseye and bench rest folks try this and post results.

[HDS]

So any news on the 223 front? I'm real interested in trying powder coating or any kind of coating that shows potential with .223. I would like to be free from gas checks so I can shoot suppressed without being afraid of the GC coming off and hitting the baffles. I will have the mihec 75gr mold soon and it should allow pretty low velocities while being effective (2200-2300fps should do it)

[nitrohuck]

Add me to the list of people interested in seeing how this project turns out!

This seems like a fun project all around and if it can truly get boolits going 2,500+ no problem then I would very much like to hear about it!

Plus, just think of all the babes I'll pick up when they ask to shoot my rifle and I hand them pink boolits ;)

[dbosman]

Plus, just think of all the babes I'll pick up when they ask to shoot my rifle and I hand them pink boolits ;)

Experiment with the quantity of citric acid needed to turn the brass pink and you might even increase the odds of picking up strange looks from babes.

[HDS]

I read in the comments to the video, that a guy got good results with this method using Eastwood 2K primer and also using a heat gun on the bullets while shaking and drying them, that way you avoid sticking in the oven. 4 coats was good enough for 2700fps.

All I got is a youtube commnt to go on here but I wanna try this method with this primer. The heat gun trick sounds like it fixes a big problem too.

[prickett]

Is that primer available in less than gallon quantities? (i.e. less than $70)