Slugging a barrel: Brass or Steel Rod?

[alamogunr]

I almost posted in one of many threads concerning slugging a barrel but decided that my question would be somewhat of a hijack.

In practically every post about slugging or making an impact casting of the throat area, brass is recommended. Some years ago in an article about impact throat casting, a list of recommended sizes of drill rod were given. Each size recommended was very close to the bore size. Since drill rod is ground and polished to close tolerances, I use it all the time when I have the correct size on hand. Brass rod on the other hand is not available in nearly as many sizes.

I grant you brass is much softer than barrel steel but using a very close fitting steel rod should not damage the lands of the bore. When steel is mentioned, it is recommended to wrap tape around the rod to keep it centered. My steel rods are so close to bore diameter that a couple of wraps with some overlap would throw the rod off center or not allow the rod to enter the bore.

I expect some impassioned pleas to not use steel because they believe it will wear the barrel. I don't have a single firearm that I have used a steel rod to slug the barrel more than twice. It would seem to me that a thousand rounds of jacketed bullets would wear the bore more. Not that anyone here would shoot a 1000 jacketed.

Let's hear some well reasoned arguments against steel drill rod.

[Trey45]

I use brass because it's softer than the steel the barrel is made from. I will not risk even the slightest chance of scratching the bore or crown with a steel rod. If you're comfortable enough using steel then you should use it. I'm not and I won't. That's my well reasoned argument for why I will not use steel. You can use it and anyone else can too. I draw the line at wooden dowel rods being used. You and everyone else is strictly forbidden forever in perpetuity from using wooden dowel rods to slug a barrel.

[robroy]

I use cold rolled hardware variety rod as close to bore as is available. It's not as close fitting as drill rod but a good deal softer than 4140 chrome molly. I radius the ends a bit to remove burs and haven't had a complaint from any barrels.

[fecmech]

I use the hardware store variety rod myself and wrap masking tape about every 6" for a slip fit in the barrel and radius the end edges.No way for the steel to touch the barrel.

[alamogunr]

Absolutely! I use the same wheel on my grinder that I use for chisels and plane blades to radius the ends of the drill rods.

Too, I have to admit that to acquire all the sizes of drill rod listed in the article I mentioned, you have to be somewhat OCD.[smilie=s:

[MtGun44]

I use a 1/4" steel rod driven into a .25 ACP case which sticks permanently on the end as a brass shoe
to protect the bore. A couple wraps or electrical tape and we are good to go. No sharp edges to hurt
the barrel and a brass shoe (free) means no problems.

Bill

[No_1]

I use an aluminum rod of 5/16" diameter for slugging and keep it in my range bag "just in case" I stick one in the bore while out there.

[surfanarchist]

I draw the line at wooden dowel rods being used. You and everyone else is strictly forbidden forever in perpetuity from using wooden dowel rods to slug a barrel.

What's wrong with wood dowel? Worked fine on my .45 and 45-70 levers.

[Garyshome]

Don't you know that it doesn't work. If the slug is tight it might splinter up in the barrel and jam around the slug causing all sorts of removal problems. But hey if it works I have no problem with that method.

[ukrifleman]

I use candle wax to slug the bore and get a chamber cast at the same time.
ukrifleman.

[Baja_Traveler]

I used a steel rod for my 45-70 - it was a bit under sized for the bore and I built it up with bands of masking tape every 6 inches, so the steel never touched the barrel. The impact cast had a "hollow point" on it from the undersized rod, but it worked flawlessly...

[cbrick]

I expect some impassioned pleas to not use steel because they believe it will wear the barrel. I don't have a single firearm that I have used a steel rod to slug the barrel more than twice. It would seem to me that a thousand rounds of jacketed bullets would wear the bore more. Not that anyone here would shoot a 1000 jacketed.

I have no arguments with a proper fitting very smooth steel rod, makes perfect sense. I am curious though, what is this "jacketed" you speak of?

Rick

[MtGun44]

There have been a number of folks that have had a dowel fracture on a long angle and wedge so hard that
it was impossible to remove without drilling, a severe risk to the barrel. One managed with a home-made
brass drill.

Bill

[ironhead7544]

I use the slugs made for that purpose by Lead Bullet Technologies. No more hammering for me.

[williamwaco]

I use candle wax to slug the bore and get a chamber cast at the same time.
ukrifleman.



How do you measure it?

Isn't it too soft?

I would expect it to squish.

[w5pv]

Any type of rod I use that goes in the bore,I use shrink tubing on it but again I don't shoot any thing smaller than 6.5

[a.squibload]

Steel rod 1/4" painted, .22 case (or was it a .25? I'll check)
JBWelded to the end, electrical tape wrapped at several locations.
No marks on the rod after slugging several barrels, should be OK.

If you get a wooden dowel stuck in your barrel, I have some trained
Circus Termites who need a gig...

[Mk42gunner]

You know, there is a big difference between slugging a bore and doing an impact slug. For slugging, I use a brass punch or rawhide mallet to get the slug (usually a pure lead round ball) started in the bore, then push it through with a cleaning rod. I don't think it matters much what type of metal rod is used, there isn't really a lot of force required.

For an impact slug, which I don't do very often, I think a close fitting brass rod makes sense.

After a bad experience with a gov't issue wooden cleaning rod in a 12 gauge shotgun, I do not use them.

Robert

[uscra112]

Steel is always my choice. Either polished 1/4" music wire with tape wraps, or for bores .25 and under an old stainless cleaning rod. Main thing is to never let it get bowed even a little.

[alamogunr]

I have no arguments with a proper fitting very smooth steel rod, makes perfect sense. I am curious though, what is this "jacketed" you speak of?

Rick

I didn't know the correct spelling.[smilie=p:

[a.squibload]

I think it's some kinda newfangled copper dealie
to protect against spontaneous exclamation.

[oscarflytyer]

Trick I was given for wood dowels, to alleviate the long lengthwise splintering, was to cut the rod in short lengths, say about 6". So far, worked for me...

[Joe504]

I was using the 6inch dowl trick when one split on me. DO NOT EVER USE WOOD FOR SLUGGING!! Or anything else requiring force on the rod. I am the guy who had to have a brass bit made to clear the barrel.

Please, keep the wood out of the barrel

[oscarflytyer]

ok... so much for THAT idea! Thanx

[MtGun44]

Joe!

Your fame lives on.

Bill

[rintinglen]

Sawing wood out of a bore with a brass tubular saw is a major PITA. Back around 1985 in my shade-tree gun shop days, I took in a .410 shot gun that had an antique wooden cleaning rod break and then get pounded into a wedge. I gave a ridiculously low price on the repair--not realizing it would take me over 6 hours by the time I was through.
(Hint: do not soak wood in the barrel with WD-40--it swells.)

[JohnFreeman]

Wooden dowels cut to 5" lengths

[rollmyown]

Wood is a very bad idea. I have experienced the bad idea first hand. I use brass now, but steel with no sharp edges and wrapped properly sounds ok.

[cbrick]

Wooden dowels cut to 5" lengths

This is one of the things that people would be well advised to learn from the first hand experience of numerous others. Seems some people just need to learn for themselves & that's ok, experience is a great teacher. Good luck!

Rick

[geargnasher]

Any metal rod unprotected with tape or similar cushion can have a tendency to peen the lands at the muzzle when making an impact cast of the chamber. I use brass or steel, depending on which size I happen to have, and wrap with two layers of electrical tape, candy-cane style, with no overlaps.

For a "shoe" like Bill mentioned, I start a greased gas check in the muzzle with a short rod and push it down to the slug with the rod. That prevents the end of the rod from embedding into the soft lead and sticking, and also helps keep the tip of the rod centered in the bore.

Gear

[a.squibload]

Yep, one of my slugs almost wrapped around the cartridge case
at the end of the rod, got done before it got stuck.

[surfanarchist]

Usually I prefer to learn the hard way (not on purpose, it just always seems to work out that way). I've only ever used wooden dowels cut in 6" lengths but I don't need to be picking a 6” wood dowel out of a barrel one millimeter at a time so I'll buy a brass rod and be done with it.

[rattletrap1970]

I stuff half of a foam ear plug 1" deep into the bore and let it expand. Then I spray teflon mold release in the barrel and let it dry. Then pour 136°F Cerrocast into the barrel and let it cool. From the opposite end I put a brass rod down the barrel and give it a sharp rap with a rawhide mallet. Then I measure the casting.

[a.squibload]

Have to try Cerrocast some day, get an idea of what everything looks like.

Turns out I put .22 cases on my 2 rods, had to pound it on the 1/4" rod.
This one's a little smaller & shorter, for pistols.
I pushed the slug in from the chamber, the lip that the case rests on
shaved a little lead, didn't think about that! Slug still got squished by the grooves.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z9i0-v-apzs/UmcGcz3hoxI/AAAAAAAAAoM/Npyf7VsVjv0/w640-h480-no/40+003+%2528%2529.jpg

[MtGun44]

Great variation on the .25 ACP case that I have used for years. Guarantees no scratching
on the end.

Bill