Casting Questions

[rodwha]

When your casting is done to you just leave the last little bit of lead in the pot to solidify? Does it matter?

I've read the directions Lee sends with their molds. What would be the ideal lube for the sprue plate? Did the pins also need to be lubed?

How long does the mold need to be dipped into the hot lead to become hot enough?

How quickly should one drop the RBs and refill before it has cooled too much?

How often does the mold need to be lubed and smoked?

Is one form of smoking better than another? I figured I'd just use one of my BBQ lighters.

Do you guys leave your casting equipment in the garage? No reason to fear the high humidity of the south or temperature swings from winter to summer?

[dondiego]

Most here recommend the 2-cycle oil for a sprue plate and pin lube. Don't let any get in the cavities! Don't smoke the cavities. Clean them really well and make sure there are no burs. Clean with stiff brush and Comet cleanser. I like to leave at least an inch in my pot to improve remelt time. When the melted lead slips off of the mold it is hot enough to cast. I leave my pot and alloy in an unheated room. My steel molds stay inside. Works for me.

Don

[D Crockett]

When your casting is done to you just leave the last little bit of lead in the pot to solidify? Does it matter? I leave my pots full for the next session of casting

I've read the directions Lee sends with their molds. What would be the ideal lube for the sprue plate? Did the pins also need to be lubed?

How long does the mold need to be dipped into the hot lead to become hot enough? about 1 minute should be good

How quickly should one drop the RBs and refill before it has cooled too much? when the spew get hare you can drop them on to a soft rag

How often does the mold need to be lubed and smoked? I did mine about 10 years ago was the last time I did mine

Is one form of smoking better than another? I figured I'd just use one of my BBQ lighters. and I used a wood match to do it with

Do you guys leave your casting equipment in the garage? No reason to fear the high humidity of the south or temperature swings from winter to summer? all my equipment is in the utility room I have 3 magma 40 lb pots and a rcbs pro melt in there D Crockett this did not come out like I thought it would read the reply with quote for the answers

[rodwha]

I have beeswax. I've read it's a good lube. Yea or nay?

I was concerned the humidity might get to the wooden handles or maybe even the electronics of the pot.

Can I work at a very slow leisurely pace with a 2 cavity Lee mold? Or do I need to be quick enough, but not fast?

Does the sprue plate and pins need relubing after time?

[dmclark523]

When your casting is done to you just leave the last little bit of lead in the pot to solidify? Does it matter?

Yes, keep doing what you are doing. Not only does leaving lead in your pot help it melt faster when you start a new session, but it helps prevent rust from forming on the inside of your pot.


I've read the directions Lee sends with their molds. What would be the ideal lube for the sprue plate? Did the pins also need to be lubed?

Sounds like you are using beeswax, correct? That should be fine. I use a 50/50 beeswax/alox from LsStuff. Check them out in a google search. Lots of good wax products from them to cast/lube with.


How long does the mold need to be dipped into the hot lead to become hot enough? about 1 minute should be good

I've heard lots of things, from 20-30 seconds, up to a minute. Or, you could simply leave your mold on top of the pot while it initially melts, and just start casting. People also leave it on a hot-plate for a few minutes to bring it up to temp. Either, way, its preference. Experiment.



How often does the mold need to be lubed and smoked? I did mine about 10 years ago was the last time I did mine

I clean and re-lube my mold pins/sprue plate after each session. Cleaning off any excess lube and grit, and then storing. As I heat up my mold, I lube the sprue, the handle-joint, and the mold pins.
As for smoking, I used to, and I don't anymore. I don't think it's necessary. Not only does it build up carbon on your mold and look bad, but it's a b**** to clean off.
Rather, invest in a mold that doesn't require smoking and works flawlessly, like from Tom over at Accurate Molds. Never needed to smoke one after I switched to him from Lee.


Can I work at a very slow leisurely pace with a 2 cavity Lee mold? Or do I need to be quick enough, but not fast?

The best advice I ever read on here about casting and getting my mold up to temp was this:
Right off the bat, cast, cut the sprue, and dump as fast as possible for the first minute or two, until you get about 3-5 seconds between pouring and the solidifying of the lead on the sprue. Or, you could cast/cut/dump as quickly as possible until you start getting nice looking boolits. From there, just use a nice steady pace.

[rodwha]

I've been considering a bullet mold for my ROA. Kaido has a custom mold made by Lee that drops a 255 grn WFN bullet that is now a 2 cavity mold for something like $65. But there's a waiting list, and delivery time has been reset many times.

Because of this I've been eyeing an Accurate mold, and also considering having a very light bullet in a dual mold. I'm not enamored with the FN designs he has and know that I can have them redesigned. The cost would become fairly high for me though.

If there wasn't such a drastic difference in cost from Lee to another mold I'd consider it, but I'm saving up my pennies to do what I can. The others just so much more. Lee allowed me to get started...

[OverMax]

When your casting is done to you just leave the last little bit of lead in the pot to solidify? Does it matter?

It's a matter of preference. I empty my pot for its storage. Before heating lead for a new casting session I'll use a wire cup brush to clean its interior with. Since my furnace is a bottom pour unit I also prep (clean) its metering valve and drain hole. Have not encounter a rusted out pot bottom yet. My Lyman Furnace was one of their first casting pots sold in the market here locally. Maybe it's 30-plus years old. Still works as good the day I purchased it and has endured a couple of my (not) so perfect paint jobs also.


I've read the directions Lee sends with their molds. What would be the ideal lube for the sprue plate? Did the pins also need to be lubed?

A Vendor Sponsors here on C/Bs (Randyrat) sells a very good mold lube. I use his lube quite often on my molds. Pins too.


How long does the mold need to be dipped into the hot lead to become hot enough?

I don't dip my molds. There is a warming shelf built into my pot. It helps to bring the molds temp up as its lead melts. But not quite to their desired temp. Have to cast junkers for awhile to get my molds up to those desired temps for near perfect booit's. Tip: Some casters prefer to use an electric warming plate to heat up their molds with at the same time their lead is also heating.


How quickly should one drop the RBs and refill before it has cooled too much?

Watch your molds sprue lead. When it appears to flash over or harden. That's the proper time to open your molds.


How often does the mold need to be lubed and smoked?

Depends on your molds metal. Aluminum often. Iron every now and then. Brass I haven't a clue. Maybe some other member see's it differently?


Is one form of smoking better than another? I figured I'd just use one of my BBQ lighters.

Not quite sure what you meant by a barbeque lighter. But most smoke their molds with the use of a lit candle. (using the smoke & soot arising up out of its flame.)


Do you guys leave your casting equipment in the garage? No reason to fear the high humidity of the south or temperature swings from winter to summer?

Again its preference. I store my casting furnace and its lead in the garage. Molds and other casting tools are stored in my basement. (just a matter of convenience for me.) My molds are lubed with Kroil and wraped in cotton cloth saturated with Kroil and then stored in labeled wide mouth jelly canning jars. Some prefer to use plastic baggies and even plastic Tupperware. What ever works is good. So long as air is seal away from them is what your wanting.

[Hellgate]

I don't leave leftover lead in the pot because I cast different hardnesses of lead for different guns. Pure soft lead for minie balls, pretty soft lead for round balls. Harder lead for centerfire pistols and harder lead for the rifles.

[LIMPINGJ]

+1 on what Hellgate said just be sure you stamp the alloy type on the lead you remove.

[rodwha]

All I intend to cast for are muzzleloaders/cap n ball pistols. So far I have a ROA and Lyman's .50 cal Deerstalker. But I've been eyeing other guns.

That does bring up the question on the speed at which an alloy will become necessary to keep leading from happening. It seems I recall it being as low as 1200 fps. If so I'd have some weak conical loads so I'm in doubt of that speed being accurate.

[Hellgate]

I use an aluminum mini muffin tin to cast little 1/2 lb ingots. It is easy to lable ingots with a sharpie pen. Easier than stamping.

[rodwha]

Despite advice to buy a muffin pan to use as an ingot mold I decided to buy the Lee model as it has the nice handle on it and such.

I see that it has 1/2 and 1 pound ingot cavities. Would it be better to use the 1/2 lb cavities so as it doesn't drop the temp down too much or is that just too small of a quantity to make it worthwhile?

I intend on using pure lead, but one never knows whether or not they'll find themselves with a bunch of WW's, which I'd certainly use. If need be I'd just water it down with some pure...

[fouronesix]

If you are primarily using one alloy just leave it in the pot. It heats up and melts more rapidly the next time. I have 3 pots. One has pure lead for muzzleloader. One has BHN 10-12 alloy for smokeless BP-similar loads in cartridges. One has BHN 14-15 for all other center fire. When needing more alloy during casting I go to the stack and pick the correct ingot(s) and place in the melt. Flux and stir with a hardwood dowel, skim off the junk and by that time the temp is usually back up.

I have a cast iron ingot mold with 1 pound cavities and a 1 pound ladle. I have a large cast iron melting/mixing pot on a propane burner for converting large/odd lead into ingots. After melting/fluxing/cleaning, I cast the ingots and stamp each ingot with the alloy/BHN.

After using a mold and while it's still very warm, I use a Qtip to smear a very small dab of Bullplate on the top of the sprue plate, around the screw and a little on the bottom surface of the plate. Then put the mold in a baggy and store in an ammo can.

[Southron]

The Best moulds are made out of Brass, that is followed by Meehanite Iron (like Lyman Moulds) and the poorest material is Aluminum. At casting temperatures aluminum moulds have already lost over half of their strength. Matter of fact, slightly above 1500 Degrees F, aluminum will catch on fire!

Aluminum is very CHEAP, and because of that Lee makes good moulds and sells them for very reasonable prices. I just wish they would come out with a "Premium Line of Moulds" with the blocks made out of 360 Brass. That would be the best of both worlds.

Sometimes with a mould you will have to cast between 10 & 30 bullets before it heats up to give you good bullets, Also, IF you have any oil in the cavity of your mould, your bullets will come out wrinkled.

You have to develop a "Casting Rythm" and learn to tap your Sprue Plate just as soon (but NOT BEFORE) the sprue hardens. Then drop your bullet on to a soft towel because the lead INSIDE the bullet is still almost liquid.

Weigh your bullets and separate them into 5 or 6 different "Lots" by weight. As for your "Light" bullets, even IF they look good on the outside, throw them back into the pot because they have air bubbles in them.

Also highly recommend you "size" your bullets by running them thru a sizing die, because bullets cast at the same session can come out different diameters. The sizing rule does not apply to Round Balls though.

I generally leave the lead in my pot at the end of a casting session and then let it harden. About every 6 months or so, I will take all of the lead out of my pot, clean the junk and rust out of the pot and completely clean the plunger and drain hole thru the bottom of the mould (I have a Bottom Pour" lead pot.

A superior bullet lube is one made out of 60% Beeswax and 40% Thompson-Center "Bore Butter." Just "hot dip" your bullets in it and then set them aside on a sheet of aluminum foil for the lube to harden.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER leave melted lube on a burner and go out of the room. It can easily overheat and catch on fire. Lube AFTER sizing the bullets!

GOOD LUCK

[Wilkie]

I use a lot of different lee molds in addition to a few NOE molds. All are aluminum. I am always amazed how unique each one is. Some of my small caliber molds need the lead to run HOT. (.224). My big molds want to have cooler lead (.451 300 grain). It's like having a bunch of different kids. Each is different.

I guess I should think about draining my pot. I haven't cleaned it in a while.