I need to pick the communal brain trust. How to re-insulate a deep freeze lid

[possom813]

My lid came apart, the inside plastic broke and exposed the fiberglass insulation.

So, can I just put up new pink panther insulation and re-engineer the top and the plastic piece?

Or can I use the canned spray foam insulation?

Or is there something even better than I don't know about?

[MtGun44]

If you can fit it, I would use a block of 2" blue Dow Styrofoam (NOT the beadboard kind )
and bond it in place an you really won't need much of a cover except for aesthetic reasons.
This is often sold to insulate foundation walls and would be a better insulator than the original
except for any poor fit issues that you may come up against fitting rigid foam.

Bill

[possom813]

I can fit a rigid chunk up to about 2", give or take a little bit.

I have a 2 part epoxy that would hold it in place quite well.


I would have to sacrifice the lamp fixture, but that really isn't an issue.

Could I use the spray foam to fill in the small gaps that will be left over? And just trim it to look pretty?

[Jeffrey]

My suggestion would be this: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/KFLEX-USA-Insulation-Sheet-3F416?Pid=search It is a flexible closed cell foam that is more durable than any urethane type product. Contact cement is your friend when bonding this product.
J

[jeepyj]

The ridged foam is likely far better insulation than the original fiberglass. I've used liquid nails type construction adhesive several times to bond foam to other surfaces. There will no harm using spray foam for the cracks however be carful not to get it where you don't want it as it is a bear to try to clean.
Jeepyj

[Sweetpea]

The ridged foam is likely far better insulation than the original fiberglass. I've used liquid nails type construction adhesive several times to bond foam to other surfaces. There will no harm using spray foam for the cracks however be carful not to get it where you don't want it as it is a bear to try to clean.
Jeepyj
You have to make sure that you get the proper liquid nails for the application...

The regular stuff will just eat through the foam board. I believe the correct stuff has a blue stripe on the label???

Brandon

[jeepyj]

You have to make sure that you get the proper liquid nails for the application...

The regular stuff will just eat through the foam board. I believe the correct stuff has a blue stripe on the label???

Brandon
You are correct it here are definitely different types. As always one should read the label. I used it while back to adhere foam to a cement wall at my cottage. It worked very good and is reasonable in cost.
Jeepyj

[MtGun44]

Yes, spray foam at the gaps will help a lot. I don't think that the spray foam
is anywhere near as durable as the foundation insulation foam, but it will be
better than gaps. Epoxy will stick to the foam well. I think that bathtub
caulk or silicone sealer type RTV may be a better choice, flex a bit and will
fill any gaps better. It will cure slowly, so needs to be held in place overnight.

Bill

[popper]

Foam board, preferably the foil or plastic coated kind, acrylic calk is OK and less expensive. paint the canned foam, any enamel will do. You will want the foam sealed against moisture and abrasion. Real silicon calk will not stick to itself when cured so patch jobs don't hold.

[Harter66]

RMAX is what they call the foam board out west here. For me I'd cut to fit the insulating board to fit the lid prefeably resting on the lid lip, duct tape the gaps then use the spray urethane foam on top . Great stuff is the foam brand out here. It is sticky and quite adhesive. I've used it to fix duck decoys w/bad keels. 1/2'' RMAX is rated at R 11 w/a 1/4 air gap which is the same as 3 1/2'' of Mansville or Owens Corning's finest fiberglass.

[MtGun44]

2" of the blue foundation foam (polystyrene) is R20, I think, so compare to 3.5" of fiberglass which
is R11.

Bill