Help with PC'd nose ride profile

[fastglock]

I'm using a NOE 247 for my 300BLK. The naked boolit has no problems feeding in both my AR's. But after powder coating the feeding stops. Any suggestions or tricks to size just the nose? I remember seeing a few that PC the same profile .

I'm powder coating by gun.Unless I need to get a mold with the nose about .003 under.

[xacex]

You will probably have to seat just a little deeper due to the coating thickness, or not coat the nose and do just from the front drive band down. The PC and a little thickness at the ogive, and you are contacting the throat before the round is completely chambered. Make a couple dummy rounds with PC to find what your new OAL will be.

[popper]

What xacex says. maybe change the alloy a bit to get the nose to drop a bit smaller, then build up the body with PC.
I'm seating a tad deeper, tolerance for PC thickness but I don't have a bore-rider CB. I've had a couple stoppages out of > 500 rnds. in my AR-10. Had the same problem with the 336, attempts to leave the RD311 (fat CB) nose bare left a ridge that still hung up, worse than coating the nose.

[runfiverun]

i'd bet buckshot could make a nose sizer for a rcbs/lyman type sizer for a decent price.

[fastglock]

i'd bet buckshot could make a nose sizer for a rcbs/lyman type sizer for a decent price.

Got a link? I'm down for that...Then at least I could coat the entire boolit..

[popper]

I only seat ~ 20 thou. Deeper to get it to work.

[fastglock]

I only seat ~ 20 thou. Deeper to get it to work.

I tried shorter OAL , it helped just a little on two different brand barrels .I get flawless feeding without PC. But naked boolits are a thing of the past for me. I really want some way to make this work.

Do you think opening up the rifling a little just up to where the nose chambers would work? Bad idea?

[xacex]

I would get a different boolit before I went cutting into the barrel. I didn't have very good luck with the NOE 247, but the Lee 230 Blackout boolit worked fine. The CMMG barrel was the worse for feeding the NOE.

[popper]

80379
Upper (red) one is what I use in 308, just looks shorter than yours. 168 GC. Throat section is short and nose is smaller dia. Alloy is low Sb so they drop small. 30-30 (white) has sort throat section smaller dia nose but is still fat. 180 gr. The pin is a 23ga. pin nail I insert & mount on a cardboard sheet to coat & cook. Did 150 this morning, ~20 didn't pass so I'll just recoat next time. Yes, I clip the pin off before using.
So what does that bore section mike at? With & W/O PC? Accurate could probably make whatever you want, his moulds are great. The 308 is an accurate.

[fastglock]

80379
Upper (red) one is what I use in 308, just looks shorter than yours. 168 GC. Throat section is short and nose is smaller dia. Alloy is low Sb so they drop small. 30-30 (white) has sort throat section smaller dia nose but is still fat. 180 gr. The pin is a 23ga. pin nail I insert & mount on a cardboard sheet to coat & cook. Did 150 this morning, ~20 didn't pass so I'll just recoat next time. Yes, I clip the pin off before using.
So what does that bore section mike at? With & W/O PC? Accurate could probably make whatever you want, his moulds are great. The 308 is an accurate.

On my Noe 247 it mics .300-.301 at the area it bore rides. PC'd it mics .304-.305.


BTW is that solder wire ?

[fastglock]

I would get a different boolit before I went cutting into the barrel. I didn't have very good luck with the NOE 247, but the Lee 230 Blackout boolit worked fine. The CMMG barrel was the worse for feeding the NOE.

Yeah I was thinking about getting a mold that would give me room for PC

[popper]

No, a pin nail I put there with an air nail gun. Goes in about 020" stand in some cardboard on a metal plate to coat. Clip it off when done. If I don't get a good coating I just redo. I did have a couple GC pop off on a redo this morning. Just order your moulds and tell Tom in the notes what you want different.

[Wayne S]

Get some Hi-Temp BBQ type paint, mask off just the nose section of one cavity of the mold, COVER EVERY PART OF THE MOLD BUT THE NOSE CAVITY, apply a light coat, let dry, apply a 2nd coat and let dry. Now you can either remove the tape and either make a trial cast, or make a cerosafe casting
A member did this and posted pictures, I think it was on an NOE 311365 if you want to do some searching and contact the OP

[fastglock]

Get some Hi-Temp BBQ type paint, mask off just the nose section of one cavity of the mold, COVER EVERY PART OF THE MOLD BUT THE NOSE CAVITY, apply a light coat, let dry, apply a 2nd coat and let dry. Now you can either remove the tape and either make a trial cast, or make a cerosafe casting
A member did this and posted pictures, I think it was on an NOE 311365 if you want to do some searching and contact the OP


Two days ago I've decided to to just powder coat the bottom half of the boolits.

About three hours ago , I was thinking "what if I powder coat the nose area in the mold?"

Then I read your post !!!

I'm gonna try it

[Wayne S]

Let us know how it turns out

[popper]

Regular PC won't take the temp of liquid lead. You'll end up with a gunked up mould that will be difficult to clean.

[fastglock]

You may be right. Ill test some PC'd heads under the casting pot first.