PDA

View Full Version : Lyman Mold Master XX Need fix



Sasquatch-1
08-26-2013, 08:32 AM
I picked up an old Lyman Mold Master XX from a friend the other day. This thing is quite old. (Couldn't even find any pictures on the internet)

Problem is it has a cord that plugs into the rheostat controller that is starting to loosen up. The place where the cord plugs into the control had a fiberish insulation that is somewhat ridgid, that the male connectors went through and were kept apart, and secured them to the box on the outside of the pot. This piece of insulation has started falling apart and needs to be replaced. I am trying to find out if there is a specific name of this stuff I should be looking for. Or if there is a high heat resistant circuit board material I can use in it's place. The entire job of this piece is to hold the pins in place and to insulate them from any other metal.

I have an email in to Lyman but don't have high hopes because of the age of the pot.

80272
80273
80274
80275

Dale in Louisiana
08-26-2013, 02:24 PM
Going off the picture, it looks shiny and brittle and layered. I'm gonna say 'mica'.

Dale in Louisiana

MtGun44
08-27-2013, 12:44 AM
Mica is ROCK and is SUPPOSED to be brittle and hard. Don't break it and it will
be fine.

Bill

Sasquatch-1
08-27-2013, 06:31 AM
Used a piece of fiberglass I got from an electric motor repair shop near by. Got it drilled and put the pins in and remounted it. Works well now. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the piece.

wv109323
08-27-2013, 10:30 PM
That will last for a while. I did the same thing on the same pot. Mine has burn up three times. There is just too much heat in that area of the pot. The heat causes the spade terminals to loose their temper and they become soft and loosen their"grip". This causes more heat due to loose terminals and the wire(s) finally burns in two. The heat also affects the bi-metal rheostat and causes great inconsistencies. I finally had to keep my rheostat turned wide open to get enough heat to cast.
I recently done away with the complete rheostat control and wiring and hooked up a PID controller. The temp is tightly controlled and I get a much better bullet. I can start to cast acceptable bullets almost immediately.(with molds preheated on a hot plate) I don't get any frosting and the lead is much easier to pour. I have almost no bullets that are rejected. You will not regret a PID. I have about $105 in the set-up.
I am as tight as they come with money but I am impressed with the difference a PID makes over the old control.

Dale in Louisiana
08-28-2013, 10:10 AM
The mica will handle a lot more heat than the fiberglass. You might want to hit that shop again and talk to them about the temperatures you're dealing with.

dale in Louisiana

Sasquatch-1
08-28-2013, 05:57 PM
I spoke with a guy who use to foundry work with brass and aluminum on a small scale and he believed the fiberglass would be fine.

The PID is something I might consider later.

MtGun44
08-29-2013, 11:37 PM
I agree, mica is VERY high temp, probably higher than any fiberglass
composite.

Bill

gnoahhh
08-31-2013, 08:12 AM
To further this discussion, on my pot the female plug-in doohickey gave up the ghost. The male prongs and the "guts" behind it look fine, it's just the plug end that fits over the two male prongs. Anybody have a spare, or know where I can get one? Thanks a bunch.

lancem
08-31-2013, 11:44 AM
To further this discussion, on my pot the female plug-in doohickey gave up the ghost. The male prongs and the "guts" behind it look fine, it's just the plug end that fits over the two male prongs. Anybody have a spare, or know where I can get one? Thanks a bunch.

It is a standard size plug. You should be able to find a replacement cord at a hardware store in the housewares dept. There are I think 2 sizes available, these cords are the type that are used on electric frying pans and the like.

Sasquatch-1
08-31-2013, 03:09 PM
If you have a small appliance repair shop start with them. If you are talking the same pot I have picturted here the plug was a fairly common small appliance plug in the 60's. If you do not have a convenient repair shop take a picture of the plug and contact Digikey at: http://www.digikey.com/ they may be able to help you.

PbHurler
09-01-2013, 10:39 AM
I have the same pot. I've picked up the replacement power cords at local Westlake (ACE) Hardware stores. They're miniature appliance cords, about $7.00, they're 6ft long, 18ga. 10 Amp. The ACE number on the packaging sleeve is: 30124. I believe they have 2ft cords as well.

Hope this helps.

PbHurler
09-01-2013, 10:58 AM
Anyone know if a piece of thin Micarta would work for the insulating piece Sasquatch was looking for? I know you can get it in pretty thin pieces for making knife scales. ??

jsizemore
09-01-2013, 06:44 PM
Have you thought about using ceramic tile?

Dale in Louisiana
09-01-2013, 09:43 PM
Anyone know if a piece of thin Micarta would work for the insulating piece Sasquatch was looking for? I know you can get it in pretty thin pieces for making knife scales. ??

Micarta won't take nearly the temperatures that mica will stand. I'm trying to imagine hot hot it might get at the location of that piece.

Im not sure which will smell worse when it gets hot, Micarta or G10 fiberglass.

dale in Louisiana

Sasquatch-1
09-02-2013, 07:56 AM
The couple of times I have used it since making the repair have gone well. There was no odor coming from the fiberglass board. Until this board fails it will be my repair. With the light casting I do (I am not shooting a thousand rounds a week) it will probably out last me. I would like to know if anyone has replaced the heating coil with an aftermarket replacement.

500MAG
09-02-2013, 08:00 AM
I had one of these that I got from someone who bought a storage auction. The whole thermostat was crushed. I wired it up directly,to use as a smelter, but without that piece the wires kept melting. Amazing how that little piece can block so much heat.

500MAG
09-02-2013, 08:07 AM
The couple of times I have used it since making the repair have gone well. There was no odor coming from the fiberglass board. Until this board fails it will be my repair. With the light casting I do (I am not shooting a thousand rounds a week) it will probably out last me. I would like to know if anyone has replaced the heating coil with an aftermarket replacement.
Are you having problems with the heating coil?

Sasquatch-1
09-02-2013, 08:38 AM
No. But that is the only thing of any consequence that could really go wrong and I was just wondering if anyone has replaced on with an after market.

500MAG
09-02-2013, 08:43 AM
80788
This is what's left of mine. The element still works and maybe you can use the mold guide. PM me your address and I will send it out to you if you want it.

montana_charlie
09-03-2013, 11:51 AM
The mica will handle a lot more heat than the fiberglass.
Perhaps a small slab of teflon would work ...