Powder coating residue in barrel... what do you clean it with?

[destrux]

I've noticed theres some fouling left In the barrel after shooting powdercoated bullets in my .40 and Hoppes #9 doesn't seem to take it out very well. Neither does Hoppes copper remover and neither does Shooters Choice Lead remover. What are you all using to remove the powder coating fouling? I see people saying it brushes right out... but on my gun it doesnt. With those cleaners I'm having to scrub it fairly well to get it out (although not nearly as much scrubbing as when I was getting leading).

[bangerjim]

Lac thinner and acetone will dissolve PC.

bangerjim

[tyeo098]

What method are you using to apply the PC to the boolets?

It should not come off.

[fastglock]

Glock 35 .40sw using piglet (laquer thinner) , just a few passes with the bore brush then a wet patch.

Ar15 300BLK using powder gun, pushing Lee 230 @1400+fps , easy clean same method.

****not sure if it makes a difference but both barrels are stainless, just an FYI

[destrux]

I'm using the harbor freight PC gun and then baking at 400 for 20 minutes. I'm using their red powder.

It leaves black streaks in the bore. I'll try using acetone to clean and see if it makes it easier. Like I said though, it's not nearly has hard to clean out as lead fouling. This has been the first "lube" I've used so far that hasn't leaded the barrel in this gun. I tried I bunch of conventional stuff before with no luck. Cleaning out a little PC fouling is trivial, I'm just seeking the best way to do it. I have a feeling it's just something Hoppes #9 was never designed to deal with. So we'll see how the acetone does next time I get out to shoot it again.

[popper]

I think you'll need to use MEK, lac thinner or something stronger than acetone, maybe on a chore/brush. I haven't had a problem with the red in 30-30, still have white for the 40. I think Bstone had problems with red in 223 but his were really fast. Check your oven with a good thermometer. Is your alloy up to the task? I shot a bunch of H-T in 30-30 and it was a lot dirtier than PCd. Lost the HT and the alloy was weak, I think. Took a bunch of #9 patches to clean it, but no sparkles. Just dirty black gunk like using alox. I assume some minor GC/stripping in MG bbl. Accuracy wasn't good but didn't get worse for ~ 60 rnds.

[destrux]

Found out my oven was only getting to 250 or so when it was set on 400. I had to turn it up to 475 to get an actual 400 inside. I baked a new batch so we'll see if they shoot clean now.

Edit: They only leave some residue where the rifling starts but it's powdery and it brushes right out with one pass using a dry bronze brush. Guess the powder just wasn't cured enough before.

[fcvan]

I set my oven to 400 degrees the first time, and noticed the powder liquified after about 5 minutes. I backed for 20 minutes after with great results. BTW, Black and Decker toaster oven. After that, I would PC (Harbor freight gun, HF flat black). I was coating Lyman 225-415 boolits. Anyway, I had a piece of cardboard I was using for something or another and set it on top of the oven. Bad move, I melted some of the little boolits. It was amazing how that little bit of insulation made the inner temp of the oven soar. The cardboard was warm BTW, not anywhere near combustion temp after 20 minutes. I tried setting my oven on the 375 mark to see if the oven was actually running hotter than the knob said. The 400 degree setting seems to do a better job on everything from 55 gr 225-415 boolits to 300 RF boolits for 45 Colt. So far, even the boolits baked at 375 didn't leave any fouling in the bore. Every caliber I've shot left the bore where 1 clean dry patch leaves a shiny and clean bore. I've been powder coating everything lately! Flat black boolits are beautiful!

[NineInchNails]

Found out my oven was only getting to 250 or so when it was set on 400. I had to turn it up to 475 to get an actual 400 inside. I baked a new batch so we'll see if they shoot clean now.

Edit: They only leave some residue where the rifling starts but it's powdery and it brushes right out with one pass using a dry bronze brush. Guess the powder just wasn't cured enough before.

That makes sense. The oven wasn't keeping proper temp. When people wipe their PC boolits with acetone or lacquer thinner and color transfers onto their rag ... that indicates that the powder was not baked adequately. Explains why a little bit was left in the barrel. Sounds like you had no problem getting it out so that's good.

[bangerjim]

Harbor Freight sells a thermal measurement gun for $24.00 (on sale now). I have 2 of them and they are a very easy way to check temps of anything. Just point the laser dot at the target and measure the temp...fairly accurate.

Not bad for $24. I have a pro unit that cost me WELL over $100 a few years ago and these things are just as accurate!

I do NOT rely on the temp know on my oven. I just crack the door AFTER the black powder turns shiny (about 320 deg) and run oven up to 420 and turn temp down. A couple checks during the specified 10 minutes (you may be baking too long!) allowing the elements to turn on and off, and out they come. Perfect every time.

bangerjim

[destrux]

Funny you say that, an IR temp gun is exactly what I used to measure the bullets temp. I've done a few batches since my last post, still no problems now that I'm properly curing the PC.