Which camera do you suggest?

[wch]

I want to take pictures of my firearms and some equipment to save to disc in case of the worst happening; I have no knowledge of cameras or photography, so I expect to take some time "working up" the photos to the quality I want.
I think that I want a digital camera, but since this is probably the only thing that I'd be using it for, I don't want to break the bank. I want to take close ups for serial numbers and calibers and if that adds to the cost or complexity, so be it.
I would appreciate your advice, and thank you.

[StratsMan]

Find a box with small writing on it, similar to serial number size... shouldn't be hard to find one. Take that to a camera store or Sam's/Costco and have them show you models appropriate to your task... I expect there are many new digital cameras that will do the trick for less than $100... Probably gonna need a "macro" feature so you can focus and zoom close in... The most difficult thing I found with photographing guns is getting the background correct so the lens would open up and you could actually see the serial number... a black serial number on a black frame doesn't stand out very well... and if you have a really light background, the automatic features of the camera will adjust to the light background instead of the dark frame of the gun. Then you can't see ANY detail on the frame...

If you're not sold on what the retailers offer, you can hit garage sales armed with your new education. I don't like my current pocket-size digital camera for close-ups as much as I liked the 10 year old, 3-megapixel Fuji that I sold at a garage sale for $35... with close-up lenses, bag and other goodies!! Should have kept that camera for documenting stuff and just bought the new camera for vacation photos.... but if you look at used/garage sale cameras, make sure that they have the correct cords to attach the camera to your computer, or a removable memory card (ie: SD card) or you won't be able to transfer the pictures to storage...

[wch]

Thank you for the informative answer.

[RobS]

Digital so you can download them to the computer, send them to your email and save them to an outside media source of some sort i.e. cd, dvd, jump drive etc. You could also print off a hard copy if you needed to. Good suggestion on a Macro mode so you can focus in closely on the serial #s.

[sprinkintime]

I am using a old Olympus E-10, it was a high end camera in its day, has a great lens and its only 4 mega pixel but takes great close-ups and its is digital. I think you should be able to buy one for no more than 150 this is a full size SLR.

[GLL]

I still use a very old (13 years) Canon G2. It is only 4 mega pixels but has 3x optical zoom, white balance, and macro settings. It does just fine for me !

http://www.fototime.com/C52DEF2681DFD7C/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/0670D5F2BFE6452/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/22B82CCE38A6CD8/xlarge.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/48F5B23791A6340/medium800.jpg

Find a good used camera from someone you know.

Use a tripod ! :)

Jerry

[RobS]

:bigsmyl2:Darn GLL...............more of your gun and mold porn.:bigsmyl2:

[NSP64]

I just use my stupid phone.
I have a nikon d5000 , but its easier with my phone. I can email them straight to my computer.

[a.squibload]

A side light across the numbers can bring them out,
an LED flashlight works for this.
My old Fuji digital has a tube around the lens
for mounting 55mm filters, got some closeup
lenses for a few bucks at a camera store.

[mold maker]

Light levels and direction will go a long way toward the details you want. A macro lens setting allows really close ups of detail, and a tripod gets rid of the shimmy shakes.

[wch]

Thanks to all of you-I now have a starting place.

[Geppetto]

I shoot a fair amount of macrophotos for my work. For something like serial numbers, nearly any camera, including Cell cameras can work. A tripod or even a simple rest can be your friend if its an older camera or if you have shakey hands. Get a feel for the focus of the camera and try out the pre-focus features (on most digital cameras, its done by "half" pressing and holding the shutter button) after the camera pre-focuses, then it takes the photo much faster.

If your interested in other photography besides just your serial numbers, you can hardly go wrong with a cannon Rebel dslr, even a T2 or T2i. Not the cheapest camera ever, but can take spectacular pictures of wild life, landscape and pretty good macros if you have a good rest. Plus, the large image sizes allow you some usable zoom when digitally editing photos. You can take a lower magnification photo of your gun, and then crop to the serial number area and not have excessive pixelation.

[brassrat]

I took this with my new $85 camera.

http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l542/g5uis23ft5h/IMG_0016_zpsad35cf7f.jpg

[wch]

I took this with my new $85 camera.

http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l542/g5uis23ft5h/IMG_0016_zpsad35cf7f.jpg

OK, that looks like the thing I need; care to tell me which camera I'm looking for?
Thanks.

[gunoil]

optical zoom!

GLL, great pics.

[MWesner55]

Buy the best camera you can afford. Ask a sales associate. They will know what to offer.

[ACrowe25]

Have a price range and stick to it. It's not all about the camera, but there are a few breakpoints you need to hit. With that being said... Simply practice practice practice and you will have some amazing pictures as seen in this thread. It's not the camera that takes the pictures, it is you!

[brassrat]

My camera is an outdated, but new, Canon Powershot.

[gmsharps]

My old Canon Power Shot S90 is hard to beat for a point and shoot. It has the largest sensor in it's class which by the way is the heart of the camera. The smaller the sensor means less quality images. The optical zoom is only a 3.8 but works for most of what I need. It has a reasonably fast lens 2.0 to 4.9 so taking pictures with existing light works very well.It has a easy to use menu and you can set a custom configuration to have the presets done as you turn it on. It also has manual setting when the auto does not give you what you want. It is proably more than you would ever have a use for but is there if you need it. You should be able to find a used one from the likes of KEH photo, B&H photo or Adorama. There are a couple of newer and improved models of this camera called the S100 and something else but the S90 would more than cover most of your needs. I didn't mention they are tough. I have been carying mine through Iraq and Afghanistan for several years now though sand storms extreme heat on helicopters and cargo planes that feels like it will vibrate your teeth out and it is still holding up fine. I'll be in extreme heat where it exceeds it's operating temps and it just shuts down until it cools off a bit and just starts going again.

gmsharps

[a.squibload]

Taken with an Iphone 3gs, shrunk with Photoshop.
Nothing special, one incandescent light and one fluorescent
running in the room.
I used the phone recently to update my collection of
serial number pics.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-syVSBzJSL40/UglO0cDzHHI/AAAAAAAAAj0/9g3PUpmPDXk/w614-h461-no/TC+cat.jpg

It helps to rest a finger or heel of hand on something.

[Ed K]

I agree. It is amazing how good today's cell phone cameras can be - especially in macro mode:

79101

[a.squibload]

Is macro mode a standard function in your phone?
I've only just started playing around with apps and it's about time to upgrade anyway.

[Ed K]

Is macro mode a standard function in your phone?

I have a Motorola Droid X - an early model released three years ago with only 3G capability yet it still has a macro mode within its' native feature set. There is no app involved. By today's standards in either smartphones or cameras it is no means state of the art yet I'm still quite satisfied for 95% of my uses which are snapshots of one sort or another. Of course it is not a serious camera but most of my needs are not serious: documenting property, snapshots of family, hobbies, or friends and photos of stuff to sell or depict in threads like this. What is has over a dedicated camera is that it is always on my person. If I get in a fender bender it is right there with me. When I used to have high-end Nikon film equipment I was frequently getting into situations where I wished I had a camera on me. I'm sure I'm not the only one.

[grumman581]

When I finally went digital, I went with a Pentax K10D, but the choice was pretty easy for me since I already had a lot of old Pentax lenses from my SLR days and the K10D would accept even the old manual Pentax lenses.

Just remember to wear clothes when you are taking photos of objects that have a lot of reflective surfaces. I remember an eBay ad a few years back where the seller ended up catching his own reflection in the chrome and apparently he had just decided to not bother putting clothes on prior to taking the photo.

[wch]

When I finally went digital, I went with a Pentax K10D, but the choice was pretty easy for me since I already had a lot of old Pentax lenses from my SLR days and the K10D would accept even the old manual Pentax lenses.

Just remember to wear clothes when you are taking photos of objects that have a lot of reflective surfaces. I remember an eBay ad a few years back where the seller ended up catching his own reflection in the chrome and apparently he had just decided to not bother putting clothes on prior to taking the photo.

An excellent reminder!

[Beagle333]

Sony Cybershot. Not much bigger than a pack of cigarettes, cover slides closed to guard lens, up to 16 mp (over 4 isn't really needed), transfers by card or usb cable, and they have a micro and a macro setting. You can bring anything right up to ya, and almost all models are $85 or less. And you can easily find refurbed Cybershots for less than that.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/Picture105_zps31c8c9c7.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/Picture066_zps2d89564c.jpg

[guncheese]

for what its worth
get the camera that has the biggest glass you can afford
mega miggle schmoozy pixels mean nothing if the lens isnt big enough to make all that resolution useful
a 4 mega pixel with a good lens will out run any 10 mega woozy pixel job with substandard glass

[af2fb751]

for what its worth get the camera that has the biggest glass you can afford mega miggle schmoozy pixels mean nothing if the lens isnt big enough ......
Good advice on glass. I have both types: nikon biggies and tiny ones. I'm amazed at the usefulness of my iPad camera...the lens is half the size of a BB. The pic below is resized to 25%. Ultimately the big camera can do more, but it can't compete on macro shots and simplicity.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/Aeisir/Cartridges/1c488f1f1d96881d9619227efe893238_zpsfbdf0266.jpg

[ratitude]

We are a Nikon family so I recommend a D5200 if you want to step up into the DSLR category. B&H Photo is a great company, great service although they have already taken far more of my money than I care to admit... ;)

Image sensor size makes far more difference than the number of megapixels in regards to picture quality. Good lenses are just awesome.

[Airborne Falcon]

Modern phone cameras with a photobucket account will do everything the OP is asking to do.

The wife and I also have a little Sony Cyber Shot with a Carl Zeiss lens that we paid maybe $100 bucks for ... it takes incredible pictures. It's the size of a pack of cigarettes basically.

[Airborne Falcon]

Sony Cybershot. Not much bigger than a pack of cigarettes, cover slides closed to guard lens, up to 16 mp (over 4 isn't really needed), transfers by card or usb cable, and they have a micro and a macro setting. You can bring anything right up to ya, and almost all models are $85 or less. And you can easily find refurbed Cybershots for less than that.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/Picture105_zps31c8c9c7.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/Picture066_zps2d89564c.jpg

You beat me to it ... you cannot beat a Sony Cyber Shot.

Very nice pictures btw.

[RogerDat]

Since no one mentioned it the Macro setting is generally designated with a symbol that looks like a 3 petal tulip flower on the settings dial or settings screens. One can then get closer to the object and the camera auto focus will work.

"Digital Zoom" feature of a camera is really just pre-cropping, using the center x percentage of the sensor for the whole picture. Optical zoom is actually changing the lens so that it gets a narrower field of view with magnification. Digital zoom will in effect reduce the amount of captured data in the final picture.

You don't need to take the picture zoomed in so that the serial number looks like a news paper headline. You just need to have software that allows you to zoom in on the picture and almost every photo viewer does that. If on zooming in you can read the serial number then you have your record. That depends on taking a well focused sharp picture more than anything else.

One trick for elimination of the "the shakes" is make sure the camera has the threaded hole for a tripod, buy a cheap (even desktop sized flexible leg one) tripod then select time delay for the shutter. You know the setting that you use to run over and get in the picture. Mount camera on a tripod, you push the shutter and remove your hand, 5 seconds later camera takes the picture. This removes even the shake from you pressing the shutter.

One characteristic of all those really good photos posted in the thread is plenty of light that surrounds the object, rather than being harsh or narrow from a single direction. Bouncing a bright light off of the ceiling and walls or even a white card or piece of paper can help you get that sort of lighting. The flash on the camera is almost useless for close up pictures, too much light, it washes out all the detail and reflects back at you.

Post production zoom using software. There is a saying "Crop it to pop it". If you have software that allows you to draw a crop box around a portion of the picture AND determine the final image size it can really bring up the details. I use Photoshop for that but it is pretty expensive for casual use. I'm pretty sure this is a fairly common feature in most photo editing software. Might check on Picasa which is free from Google I think it has it. Also some handy picture fixing buttons in Picasa including "I'm Feeling Lucky" which tries to adjust it all for the best picture.

For the portable stuff I would just set up a small tripod a neutral background such as gray blanket to set the object on and a few lights and just work through the items. Guns, jewelry, tools, electronics etc. Then as mentioned burn it to a CD and give a copy to a family member or trusted friend. No point in having the only record in the house in case of fire or just having the computer with the pictures stolen.

Plus one on the Nikon D5100 and D5200 being nice cameras but going to set you back $500 - $650 today or there about even with just a kit lens. When new models they both ran closer to $800. Same for the Canon Rebels. And if you think reloading equipment is an expensive addiction wait until you see what a high speed zoom lens goes for! And there is always one more bit of kit that would be great to have.

Back in reality. Canon Powershots are pretty good (my 10 year old A75 still fits in my shirt pocket and takes good pictures) as are Sony Cybershots. A Google search for Best sub $200 cameras of 2014 or 2013 should yield a selection of year or two old models that will be pretty good, probably still available at least on Amazon, with a warranty and while not having the latest and greatest features will have enough to make it useful as a general use camera at an attractive price. A lot of times the difference between a year ago and newest is just some more mega pixels and maybe a feature or two in the software. And of course the price. Not the difference between taking good pictures and bad pictures. Actually too many mega pixels in a small sensor tend to create "noise" in the picture, literally the signal from the one pixel firing generates a weak signal in the pixels adjacent to it. Cameras use software to clean it up, especially small sensor cameras <cough*phone*cough>

Don't forget an overall picture of the firearm too. Nice to have serial numbers for police and all the local gun and pawn shops but for insurance a picture of the whole item is better.

[NavyVet1959]

Having a solid background is good for when you are taking a photo for documentation purposes. Multiple diffused lighting sources and an indistinct solid background works pretty good, kind of like a "white box".


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYmIYuueZz4#t=626

If you are taking a photo of stainless steel firearms, maybe a white background would not be the best. Sometimes, you want a color that is completely different than the object that you are taking a photo of. For example, with a blued firearm, most of the colors are going to be either shiny (white-like) or basically shades of black. You might not want to use a white, gray, or black background with this, but a contrasting color background might work.

Here's a quick cell phone photo I took of a new handgun that I purchased yesterday. It was taken with just kitchen fluorescent lighting and a crappy cell phone camera and holding the phone by hand. The background is just a crumpled up red sweatshirt.

http://i62.tinypic.com/205l6s.jpg

As you can see, the stainless steel and plastic bag are reflecting the light and if you zoom in on the lettering, it is not very clear. It does illustrate using a different color that will not blend in with the colors in the firearm though. Personally, I would not consider this acceptable for documentation purposes.

If you are taking a photo of a rifle, it's nice to be able to get the entire rifle in the shot. If you use a wide angle lens, you will get some distortion, so the best bet is to just increase the distance from the camera to the rifle. Since it is nice to have a neutral background, putting the rifle on a carpeted floor works pretty good for this. Just remember to crop the photo so that your feet are not in the photo also. :)

[farmerjim]

If that’s all you will use it for, borrow one.

[alamogunr]

A little more involved than Navy Vet's post but still doable and flexible:

http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/light_box_light_tent

[waksupi]

131568I just use a light background, in the shade. Works reasonably well.

[skeettx]

I use a Sony Mavica FD-73, you can get them on EBAY for CHEAP

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-MVC-FD73-Mavica-0-4MP-10x-Optical-Zoom-2-5-LCD-Digital-Still-Camera-Bundle-/381164430770?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58bf2ba5b2

http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/MVC-003S1.JPG

Mike

p.s. the BATHROOM is the best lit room in the house, take your pictures there if possible

[ascast]

wch - I got a cheapo ($150) FUJI mostly to do just what you are doing and some on-line auctions. I got it about 6 years ago maybe. It will shoot as well or better than any of the pics posted . BUT- the memory card is an odd size and will NOT fit in my printer or a card reader. So, I have to use a cable to download. NO biggy, just beware of cheapos. Also, the battery is an issue. You will want an AC power adapter as you are going to be doing bench work. My cheapo uses AA batteries for field work and its OK for me. But it would be a real PITA on a vacation type outings. Coins are a good thing to practice on or take with you to the store. Take one with dings and tell them you want to see the dings in the pic very clearly. Also, get a FLASH option. I find in on-line sales stuff, I have a hard time getting enough light. The flash gets it done. On tripods- the kind with removable shoe- the shoe will wear out and defeat the whole purpose- just stick with thread mount for now. Look at a lot of pic. Start with the S&W posted in this thread. It looks like 3 different guns to me. The metal color has changed in each pic. A funky blueish nickel plate, then a high gloss nickle plate, then a soft weak blueing job. Digital cameras WILL DO THAT. For insurance-anti theft- recovery I would get the colors right.
Get some bed sheets or cheapo WASHABLE blankets to use as backgrounds. Greys and off whites genrally are best. For case hardened (color) try reds and blues. Sometimes it can makes the color case hardening really pop off the page.
Read the manual, but ONLY the stuff you need- modern digi cams will do so much stuff you will NEVER use your brain will hurt. and practice practice practice
take copious notes just like you were working up a new max pressure red line load for the gun.
Look at lots of pics on fleabay. You will see a lot that are just plain bad, too dark, out of focus or cluttered with flags waving or other stuff. And you will see a lot of good pics as well. just a quick study. good luck

[gondwana]

Simple and excellent digital photography. I am also impressed by your casting skill. The boolits speak for themselves in these pics.

[gondwana]

Cell phone cameras are convenient, generally close to hand, take relatively high quality images (this with an iPhone 6 Plus) and you never know just when you might want to snap something.

143678

[cuzinbruce]

The Huber light tent in alamogunr's post is a pretty nifty design. I have been meaning to make one for a couple years now!

[Norske]

I have more camera than I would recommend to a beginner. Therefore, I'll recommend one of those "SLR-like" (as Consumer Reports calls them) or superzoom (as photo magazines call them) cameras. They look like a camera with interchangeable lenses, but they have a fixed zoom lens that goes from wide angle to serious telephoto. Every manufacturer makes some, but for quality/$$ I like the Lumix cameras by Panasonic due to their Leica lenses. Look up Lumix cameras, choose the point-and-shoot, and scroll around until you see the ones that look like SLRs.
No matter what style camera you chose, I'd really recommend a model with an eye level viewfinder because LCD screens are so hard to see in bright sunlight.

[edctexas]

You really need to know what you will taking pix of. If your shooting your guns and boolits, you'll need to be able to close focus. If your shooting game pix a zoom might be needed. Norske's idea is quite good, Canon, Nikon, Sony, Olympus etc all have high end point and shoot. They have excellent optical zoom from wide angle to big zoom. Many have stabilization (anti-shake). I am fortunate to have both an SLR (with interchangable lens) and a high end point and shoot. Central Texas has a great camera store which has great sales people. They try to fit you into what will work for your budget and use. They don't try to up sell. Try a camera store and ask for help.

Ed C

[jlchucker]

About a year or so ago I bought an el cheapo Fuji at Best Buy for around 75 bucks. I bought it for a spare, thinking I'd keep it in my car or truck. The camera guy at the store said they were as good or better than the other brands. He was right, and I bought it. Used it for a while before giving it to my niece's 6 year old, who took about a thousand "selfie"s with it an still has it, it working order. If I already didn't have a Canon pocket size model (out-dated now--tech items get outdated every time someone sneezes) I wouldn't hesitate getting a Fuji mor my only small camera. Check Amazon, Best Buy, or similar stores for your best price.

[gburnstein]

The Olympus TG-3 or TG-4 takes truly amazing handheld macro pictures... Can be dropped, kicked, frozen, used underwater. I have a TG-2 and Tg-3... The TG-4 on Amazon is the least expensive way to go. Has an LED ring that snaps on the front... here is a quick handheld shot I just took on the desk next to me 146726 this is sized down to 35% of original... the big one is here: http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z195/gburnstein/macro_5_zpso9pp8vva.jpg

[stillhere]

Not sure if you were looking for a specific brand and model or just general advice. I wanted about the best I could find that was not a DSLR because I'm not a photographer. I settled on a Sony RX-100 which has a lot of manual control if you want that or you can set it to 'idiot' mode like I do and sit back and enjoy the great pictures. Video is exquisite.
Good luck in your search.

[greenwart]

Try Craigslist of Pawn shops for cameras and find one that has a good macro mode. I have a Nikon coolpix 10Mp 5x optical zoom that set me back $20. Has a great macro mode which is better than a later 16Mp Nikon. Anything less than 16Mp is a give away. I have been picking up 2nd generation cameras for 15-20$ when I travel overseas and if I am somewhere they might get appropriated or destroyed(ie Naples) I really don't care. My 16Mp 10X optical zoom nikon was bought for $40 is the same camera my daughter in law bought 2 years earlier for over 2 benjamins. You are buying the optics not the electronics.

[Pinsnscrews]

Nikon and Olympus have the Highest Quality glass in their cameras, Canon is a very close third as they uave to buy their glass from a third party. Nikon and Olympus both own their own optics companies with Nikon actually having a proprietary blend used in the "Nikkor" brand lenses.

[hardcase54]

Anyone still use a film camera or lens??

[NavyVet1959]

Anyone still use a film camera or lens??

Switched to digital a few years back once the resolution got to the point where they were a good replacement for film. Since your biggest investment in a SLR was the lenses that you bought for it, if your DSLR can still use those SLR lenses, that is a great advantage. Not all DSLRs can do that though.

I still use the camera on my cell phone though if I need to take a quick photo of something that I will be posting on the web (bullet powdercoating, etc). Usually end up taking the photo inside and it's at night, so it's not as good as it probably *could* be, even given a crappy cell phone camera.

https://www.googledrive.com/host/0B8A9o0AImjXHfmlSQWdFVFRfSmd6d19mTG1jVXUzRWhrZk1KQ WFvdjJidlFtUERRcXh3M1k/lee-c225-55-powder-coated-vs-hot-dip-wax-lube-2-320w.jpg
(full resolution version link) (https://www.googledrive.com/host/0B8A9o0AImjXHfmlSQWdFVFRfSmd6d19mTG1jVXUzRWhrZk1KQ WFvdjJidlFtUERRcXh3M1k/lee-c225-55-powder-coated-vs-hot-dip-wax-lube-2.jpg)

[jmorris]

I took this photo with a cell phone with a 8mp camera.

http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/Castboolits%20Castpic%20of%20the%20month/Oct%20Nov%202015%20reloading%20room%20Art_zpss4usp oux.jpg

It happened to win one of the contests but I just snapped the photo when I found it.

For "keeper" photos that I may enlarge or I may want to play with exposure, depth of field, etc, I use a Nikon D200.

Was pretty expensive new but DSLR's loose value pretty quick as the new ones come out.

[Sam Casey]

Still using one of the cheaper ($135+/-) Nikons I have had for several years .

[KennethF]

Well? Where is your photo for the above post? Lets see one!

[Sam Casey]

Thanks for asking Kenneth. Camera is a Nikon Coolpix L810.

Since you have asked, if you like, I can take pictures of other such items to give CB viewers chance to see full capability of my low cost Nikon.


http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb463/bigcreekmi/DSCN0114.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/bigcreekmi/media/DSCN0114.jpg.html)

[KennethF]

Thanks Sam, your camera takes a very sharp picture indeed! Nice gun, I suspect that you will get some serious interest in it, hope need not be listed for very long. Good luck, thanks for the picture. Yes, please, add more photos!

[Ballistics in Scotland]

In my view use principally for firearms and reloading components disposes of the need to consider either a film camera (without digital delay) or a DSLR (as you can get as near or far as you like, rather than change lenses.

One of the biggest traps you can fall into is going for the maximum number of megapixels. Having a really large print made, or finding detail in a picture which must be distant (such as an aerial one) are the only reasons why you need more than about 4Mp. Your friends won't thank you for being e-mailed very large files, and websites like this size them down to a relatively small file size as you upload.

I've got a Nikon 1V1, a sort of marginally pocketable compromise between pocket camera and DSLR, because my wife got it at a very large discount for being an online dealer support consultant for Nikon. I think that may have been because it was a liability in their line, though. It takes marvelous pictures, but nowadays they all do. It refused to recognize the non-automatic 400mm. lens from my 1970s Pentax, and it has one feature most irritating to someone with a very short-sighted left eye, like me. It has the usual viewing screen, and a simple through-the-lens viewfinder for use when the sun makes the screen hard to see. I should be able to put my eye very close to the screen, and get marvelous composition and view of how it was autofocussing. Others could do the same, very usefully for closeups and document copying, with a simple magnifier and cardboard pyramid. But the camera switches off the screen when the light is blocked off by my face, to save the rather ample battery life. I believe more recent models have made this shutdown optional.

I am also about to call Nikon about either a fault or a mysterious incorrect setting which is making telephoto virtually unusable. The screen is fine at wide angle, but darkens as the focal length is extended. This is just what an old-fashioned film camera at would do, so whatever causes it to compensate isn't working. Maybe it is pilot error, but there are times when you need a camera that won't throw up such problems.

So I fall back as much as marital relations will stand on my grossly obsolete Sony DSC S85, from the days when digital cameras were expensive luxuries. It has a very good Carl Zeiss lens (and I prefer to avoid the plastic lens used on some of the cheapest ones.) The macro facility gets closer than the Nikon's. The only thing I really miss is a self-opening cover on the lens for more lenses get damaged by cleaning than by accident. But it has threads on both the front of the lens and the fixed surround, which I found invaluable. I have a portable copying stand made for my ancient Pentax, which holds the camera perpendicular to the document, and I was abto turn down the aluminium mounting ring and epoxy to a filter system adapter fitting the Sony threads. The Glasgow city reference library has the full set of early British patents, with drawings, in large and fragile volumes which they won't let you upend on the photocopier. But I can get away with photographing them.

I don't see much use for a built-in flash for firearms pictures, although it can be useful for cutting shadow in sunlight outside pictures. A very useful item I found at far less than photographic accessory prices, was a little clip-on table lamp with a ring of LEDs, through which the lens can neatly poke. It gives shadowless lighting which is invaluable for photographing existing pictures or documents. Mine is for mains electricity, but they are available for car voltage, which means a pocketable battery.

More important than even the camera, possibly, is good photo editing software. I use another museum piece, Micrografx Picture Publisher 10, from a company Corel bought and discontinued both supply and support, just after I had sprung for the pro version. But like the Sony it does as much as very expensive modern ones will, and I know every bit of it that I have found useful. It runs on Windows 7 64 bit if you use the compatibility control, and I'm told the same applies with Windows 8 at least. These programs allow you to adjust brightness, contrast or colour balance. That allows you to compensate for the colour cast of fluorescent or tungsten lighting. You can add text or mask off part of the picture, feather its edges and cut and paste it somewhere else. Or you can smear something, like pencil artists do with a stump of rolled paper. Here are a fake case label I made from a share certificate for my Pieper shotgun, and a friend (to have printed on a coffee mug) before and after I reduced the number of his gin bottles.

159178159179

There is nothing like helping others, for helping ourselves. The above prompted me to look on eBay to see if they had any copies, and I bought or £10, as a spare, possibly the last shrink-wrapped new old stock copy in existence.

[Elkins45]

Digital zoom is meaningless. Optical zoom is real, so base any comparisons of zoom range on that number.

Virtually any camera over $100 is a very good camera these days.

A translucent white trash can with the bottom cut out makes a great light box for photographing small objects like knives and guns. I often put things on my deck rail inside my "photo trash can" and I get nice, soft light with good detail but no harsh shadows.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/ZTL.jpg (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/elkins_pix/media/ZTL.jpg.html)

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/ZTR.jpg (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/elkins_pix/media/ZTR.jpg.html)

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/dadknife2.jpg (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/elkins_pix/media/dadknife2.jpg.html)

[NavyVet1959]

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/dadknife2.jpg

Now, that knife brings back memories... Many 'a young bull became a young steer by a knife just like that back on our ranch. Don't remember if it was my father's or grandfather's knife, but they had it sharpened literally "razor" sharp.

[Elkins45]

Now, that knife brings back memories... Many 'a calf was castrated by a knife just like that back on our ranch. Don't remember if it was my father's or grandfathers's knife, but they had it sharpened literally "razor" sharp.

That knife belonged to both my grandfather and my father. Dad began carrying it after my grandfather died, and I started after Dad died. I got scared I would lose it so it's in the safe now.

[kingstrider]

I have a $1500 camera setup with macro zoom lens but use my iPhone 99% of the time. The photos are usually good enough to show what I need.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t138/kingstrider/gun%20stuff/IMG_6471.jpg

[Nick Quick]

I use for everything my Sony A77 II. Unfortunately I do not have a macro lens but I can take decent photos with what I have.
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[Team Termath]

No mater what camera you have... use a tripod or steadying support.
Remember, your best accuracy is achieved... bench rested!


2012 Apple iPhone 5 8mp digital zoom


http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj358/Team_Termath/Snapshots/Boolits/Cheesyx.jpg


2008 Canon PowerShot A720 IS 8mp 6x optical zoom


http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj358/Team_Termath/Snapshots/Boolits/Bullet-Board.jpg


2008 Canon PowerShot G10 14.7mp 5x optical zoom


http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj358/Team_Termath/Snapshots/Boolits/Partiot.jpg

[NavyVet1959]

Not every web forum resizes your photos, especially if you are linking from an external site. As such, use image editing photos to generate a web-acceptable image of lower resolution and higher compression. In *some* cases, you *might* also want to include a link that people can click to get to a higher resolution photo. There are people who use smartphones for accessing the web and if your photo is too big, the page is going to be slow to load and it will cover well past their screen size making it difficult for them to see the entire image all at once. Yeah, I know -- just use a *real* computer... Sometimes though, you just have your smartphone with you and are traveling.

[Earlwb]

Most cameras work fine. I have been using a Panasonic Lumix camera to good effect. The camera has a built in macro mode (they tend to call it a flower mode with some brands) that lets you take pictures up fairly close within inches of the object. But one thing to get is a picture image editor program that lets you resize, crop pics and save the cropped part and export the picures into different image formats etc. Thus you can select a part of the picture and make that into a new image and resize it as needed. There are other options that could be handy but the saving of a cropped picture portion is quite handy. That selecting a portion of the image has the effect of zooming in on that part or magnifying it.

[NavyVet1959]

But one thing to get is a picture image editor program that lets you resize, crop pics and save the cropped part and export the picures into different image formats etc.

I've found the free Irfanview to meet all my needs for files that are going to end up on the web (and even for many that will be printed). I've been using it for

www.irfanview.com

According to the wiki article (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IrfanView) on it, it's been around for 20 years. I don't know when I first encountered it, but I suspect I've been using it nearly that long.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Anybody use a Nikon CoolPix camera ?
I recently bought one (12MP, model S570) from a local "Goodwill" store, $2.50 after a 50% discount. It has 5x optical zoom, plus digital zoom that all the cheapo Digital cameras have.

It had a few banged up corners, in fact the battery compartment would not open, due to that. I decided to buy it, after I pryed open the battery compartment, and I seen it uses the same battery as my cheapo Fujifilm digital camera...and I like that 3.7 volt, small, block shaped, Lith Ion battery, They are cheap and quick to recharge and the charge lasts a long time...and I've never had one fail.
ANYWAY, this Nikon has a ton of features that my fujifilm camera doesn't have, easy to navigate menu, real good Macro feature, real good stabilize feature, easy to use timer, but don't like the video feature compared to my fujifilm's one button video activation. Another issue, is you can't "block" delete photos, like the fujifilm camera can, deleting is real slow with the nikon. There is also some nighttime light correction thingy on the flash, that takes a photo in a very dark room, and the picture looks like daytime, no shadows from flash...I haven't tried that nighttime thingy outside yet...probably won't work as good.

I haven't done much with it yet, but here is an example of a quick "point and shoot" photo of my canning day yesterday. I usually crop these type of photo's, but I left this one "as is" (except I reduced it 50% to fit the castboolits format), to show the light lights and the dark darks and pretty good detail without using a tripod. For a cheapo digital, I think it's a real good one.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/JonB_in_Glencoe/tomatoes%20reduced_zpshkesnjbg.jpg (http://s640.photobucket.com/user/JonB_in_Glencoe/media/tomatoes%20reduced_zpshkesnjbg.jpg.html)

[gondwana]

Your pics are testament to two things, your gifted photography and excellent Canon of Japan quality.

[gondwana]

No mater what camera you have... use a tripod or steadying support.
Remember, your best accuracy is achieved... bench rested!


2012 Apple iPhone 5 8mp digital zoom


http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj358/Team_Termath/Snapshots/Boolits/Cheesyx.jpg


2008 Canon PowerShot A720 IS 8mp 6x optical zoom


http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj358/Team_Termath/Snapshots/Boolits/Bullet-Board.jpg


2008 Canon PowerShot G10 14.7mp 5x optical zoom


http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj358/Team_Termath/Snapshots/Boolits/Partiot.jpg




Those boolits under the Ritz box look good enough to eat!

[54bore]

183882

Samsung Galaxy S3 8mp camera, this phone is OLD news now, but stil takes a decent picture.

[Pressman]

Canon 80D with Sigma 10-20 EX lens. No flash, using available lighting. Wide angle ads some distortion but I really like the sharpness and color rendition.

www.uglyhedgehog.com (http://www.uglyhedgehog.com) for more information, good camera talk and a new site to kill time while sitting in front of the computer.
Happy New Year,
Ken

[Big Mak]

I use a Nikon D7000 with a SB800 flash, filter and bounced, along with a home made light box for this photo.

[whtsmoke]

Canon 5d mklll 70-200 f/4L at 70mm using available light in the room.189656

[Stilly]

If anyone wants to shoot MACRO, then consider looking for a RAYNOX macro attachment that clips to your lens. the 1.5 gives EXCELLENT detail despite being a clip-on:

192367 192368 192369 192370

Here is the one I use: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raynox-DCR-150-Macro-Close-up-lens-4-Canon-40D-30D-20D-5D-EOS-XS-XSi-450D-500D-/370494989761?hash=item564338e5c1:g:AC4AAOSwLF1X7Vs N They also have a 2.0 one but the 1.5 works so nice and has a bit more depth to it I feel.

Pay no attention to the camera, it clips on to the front of the lens, but also I think is a 55mm screw on if you do not use the clip. You get to zoom in really big and be about 6-15 inches away from the focal point.

[Pepe Ray]

Questions from an "ignoramus".
I have a Canon Powershot A550. the software to operaye the camera is NOT compatable with my Windows 7 P.C. system.
Do I have options or must I buy another camera?
Pepe Ray

[Mr_Sheesh]

Pepe Ray, what OS does the software require?

I have been getting used cameras from goodwill for a while; Friend goes there and finds one (he's fairly camera savvy) and I look it up from here. Have a variety, now the iPhone 4 & Samsung Galaxy S3. For a lot of things a cell phone camera is fine; Something like a picture of a damaged circuit to show another Electronics person I usually get out the larger older Sony. Added a neutral Gray filter which helps for the odd things I do.

[David2011]

Questions from an "ignoramus".
I have a Canon Powershot A550. the software to operaye the camera is NOT compatable with my Windows 7 P.C. system.
Do I have options or must I buy another camera?
Pepe Ray

Just pop the memory card out and plug it into your computer. The A550 uses a standard MMC/SD card. You shouldn't need the camera's software to retrieve pictures. Most computers have an SD/MMC card reader built in but you might need an accessory card reader. Just copy the photos to your "Pictures" folder organized with a meaningful directory structure.

My favorite way of organizing photos is by year-2 digit month-2 digit day - subject matter. Today's pictures would go under "2017-12-25 - Christmas". By using the year first and 2 digit month/day (2017-02-07 for Feb 7th for example) the folders will automatically arrange in chronological order. They won't arrange in chronological order if 1 through 9 aren't preceded by a zero. Easy to search!

[Mr_Sheesh]

Yep that works too. I get USB SD card readers, you may have horrid luck with the cheapest but some middle range ones work beautifully.

David2011 that's an ISO standard now, ISO8601. It is great since I don't have to write date sorting routines any more - ABOUT TIME! :)

[Earlwb]

Interestingly enough I have found that my iPhone's camera works great for taking pictures too. It has a built in gyro stabilization system that helps to steady the camera for sharper pictures. I can export the images and use a image program to edit and crop a image and zoom in to show more details as needed on the pictures too. I assume that the Android cameras have similar capabilities and high resolution too. In this example, I took a picture and selected a part and created a new image and pasted the selected part into it. I then resized the images to reduce their file size as well.

210292

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[Murphy]

I have always admired great photography. I tried it long ago with 35mm film, but never got good with it. Then the digital age came about and things got much MUCH better. What constitutes a great picture, may not be so great to others in terms of composition, exposure...etc.

The last camera I purchased was about 2 years ago, a Nikon Coolpix S7000. It suits my needs well. There are a lot of aspects of photography. Another great thing about digital photography, is for those who still use a computer to get online. Find a nice photo editing program and purchase it. One can do some amazing things in clearing up a photo, sharpness, contrast....etc.

And I saw a few mention using a tripod....YES! When I want the absolute best, I use a tripod and get the best lighting I can. Set the time on the camera and be hands free of it when the camera takes the photo. It removes any shakiness what-so-ever. Without learning a bit about photography, a $200 camera will suit 90% of the peoples needs just as well as a $3,000 one.

On a final note, I see this thread was started over 4 years ago? I hope the original poster is doing well with his photos.

Murphy

[Aunegl]

Olympus TG4. I like the microscope feature.
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[JeremiahCarlson]

great . Thanks.....

[Hueyville]

In a former life took pictures for over a dozen magazines, two newspapers and AP Wire. Remember shooting film, rushing to lab, cropping and correcting any issues in lab then handing off to an editor who decided which went to print. Can still remember first Grand Tour bicycle race took a digital camera as a "backup" to my film rigs as didn't really trust the thing to get me through the event and today 22 years later. Purchased the Nikon D70 as the lower priced Nikon professional DSLR and immediately purchased a D1 then upgraded soon as D2, D3 and subsequent professional DSLR's came out. Watched megapixels go from 2 mp point and shoots to 50 and 100 mp medium formats.

There are some good point and shoots out there just make sure they have macro mode. Also don't get caught up in the megapixel count race. Currently my "portrait & landscape" camera is a Kodak DCS Pro SLR/n which is a Nikon D80 which Kodak gutted and put their full frame sensor in along with firmware. Kodak makes some of the finest sensors available. It was made in 2004 and none of the cameras have purchased since have the color saturation and smooth images to the eye but 80% of the pictures I take are with my phone because it's in my pocket. Because phones bend the light from a plastic lens 90° through a prism to a tiny sensor they can only do so much.

Most of the time I keep my trusty 22 year old 6.1 mp Nikon D70 close at hand with a Nikon 24-85 lens with macro option close for taking pictures when it matters. Based on condition and luck can find a serviceable D70 for $100 to $175 and their 24-85 f 2.8 lens for $200 to $400 and it will likey last a lifetime. Send mine in every four or five years for professional cleaning and service. For backpack and around work I keep a 12 mp Lumix point and shoot with macro mode purchased new on sale for $199.

Most important is get a camera where you have macro mode, ability to control flash output, color balance and shoots a raw or tiff image rather than jpg or both at same time. Remember a computer monitor reproduces images at 72 dpi so posting a 300 dpi image to web is not needed. Decent post processing software is a big help but a $1,000 plus copy of Adobe Photoshop will leave most baffled due to complexity. Find an older copy of Corel Photopaint X2 or X3 on ebay for $50 bucks then crop, resample and massage photos easily for prints or web and about a $250 to $500 investment in a Lumix or used Nikon DSLR with $50 software package and you will have all you need.

[Outpost75]

These were taken with a Panasonic TS4, which has since been replaced by a newer model. The camera is waterproof to 10 meters depth, rubber armored, and can imbed geocoding into the frame. I originally got this for taking pictures of storm damage assessment, but it takes great gun and ammo photos.

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[Beerd]

I think it's kind of like firearms.
The best equipment won't make up for a lack of operator skill.
You have to get in a lot of practice. That is a lot easier today with digital than it was with film yesterday.
..

[Rubino1988]

Optical zoom is you’re best friend and something with a good flash

[arlon]

Since this was started in 2013, I bet he has a camera and pictures filed by now.

[gondwana]

For much of my work I still use my old Nikon DSLR but I have to say, my iPhone 12 ProMax is very good.

[David2011]

I used to make my living with film cameras but have to agree regarding the iPhone 12. I got a 12 Pro recently which I think has the same camera as the 12 ProMax. It’s an excellent snapshot camera. I’m in the market for a good used digital slr for making videos and better stills. I’ve shot with Nikons for so many years that I’m leaning in that direction for a digital slr. Some of the functions are still in familiar places. I got a Sony mirrorless camera as a service award a few years ago and it’s the least used of all of my digital cameras. It’s a cheap imitation of an slr with almost no manual influence available. It can’t even be focused manually. The Nikon D700 still seems to be a very desirable option for what I want from a camera.