Dextron ATF as a mould lubricant.

[Shuz]

The late Ken "Molly" Mollohan had an interesting article recently published in the CBA's publication "Fouling Shot". He used a tiny bit of Dextron ATF on a sticky mould; even putting some in the cavities just to "wet the metal". He claims it worked real well and was somewhat amazed at the results. Have any of you tried this?
I have recently noticed some stickeyness(sp) when casting with my Mihec MP-433-300HP. I think I'll give his method a trial on my next casting session when cooler weather arrives and report back.

[swheeler]

I have'nt tried ATF or Kroil either one, putting it in the cavities just sounds wrong to me after taking the time to wash all the oils out of them?

[Gtek]

I swab mine with Ed's Red post casting to sit until next go. That is Dexron III, I would maybe try a little touch of later style synthetic on pins and plate for experiment. Never had much experience with putting anything in mold after all the work sometimes to get it all out and clean. Waiting for report. Gtek

[warf73]

I've used ATF in boolit lube (as a thinning agent) but never on the molds. I lube my molds with synthetic 2 stroke oil with great results. I've never oiled or lubed my mold cavities, only thing I try to keep in my mold cavity’s is lead.

[bhn22]

Ed Harris makes the same recommendation. I usually clean my molds with Eds Red, then wipe any excess from them. To use, I give them a quick shot of brake cleaner, which should be unnecessary, then cast away. These procedures have eliminated any past issues with molds rusting.

[HATCH]

I put all my molds up coated in 2 cycle syn oil. Inside the cavities too.
I keep a can of brake cleaner and spray the molds prior to casting to get the oil off of it.
Then I cast. After about 5 mins (i run a automated master caster) it spits out perfect boolits. I just dump the first 5 mins back in the pot to melt back down again.

[geargnasher]

The late Ken "Molly" Mollohan had an interesting article recently published in the CBA's publication "Fouling Shot". He used a tiny bit of Dextron ATF on a sticky mould; even putting some in the cavities just to "wet the metal". He claims it worked real well and was somewhat amazed at the results. Have any of you tried this?
I have recently noticed some stickeyness(sp) when casting with my Mihec MP-433-300HP. I think I'll give his method a trial on my next casting session when cooler weather arrives and report back.

Inspect the mould cavities for lead accumulation right along the parting line, all of my miha moulds have a tendency to build up right at the edges due to microscopic burrs catching metal. Work it over with an instrument and a loupe.

As for Mr. Mollohan's article, I tried that several years ago when he mentioned it on this forum and all I got was a sticky, burned mess and eternally wrinkly boolits. One of the things I miss most about him is how his hands were always dirty from trying and doing all sorts of unconventional things, ever the experimenter. When something popped into his head, he went right out and tried it to see what would happen, and if it worked for him then he promptly shared the tip.

Gear

[milprileb]

Inspect the mould cavities for lead accumulation right along the parting line, all of my miha moulds have a tendency to build up right at the edges due to microscopic burrs catching metal. Work it over with an instrument and a loupe.

As for Mr. Mollohan's article, I tried that several years ago when he mentioned it on this forum and all I got was a sticky, burned mess and eternally wrinkly boolits. Gear

My experience with this idea and with the other half great Kroil idea is you get the results Gear notes above. Now, don't let me discourage you from doing it but if a guy like Gear is telling you it stinks, the over wheming obvious is hard to escape !

[9.3X62AL]

I will weigh in with The Little Bit Goes A LONG Way cadre on this question. The synthetic 2-cycle oil on alignment surfaces and sprue plate pivots works wonderfully for me. A very small amount on top of the blocks where the sprue plate travels is also a benefit--until it gets into the cavities, then Raisin City incorporates and brake cleaner must be used to get the mould civilized again. I have no experience with ATF in this venue.

[Walter Laich]

FWIW: I've sprayed a number of Lee 6-cav molds with Kroil. Done this with mold cold as well as in middle of casting session. Once mold gets back to temp it drops bullets in fine fashion and with no wrinkles.

I did it first as a test and it surprised me that it worked. Do it now if the mold seems to get sticky and that's not very often.

[Cadillo]

I will weigh in with The Little Bit Goes A LONG Way cadre on this question. The synthetic 2-cycle oil on alignment surfaces and sprue plate pivots works wonderfully for me. A very small amount on top of the blocks where the sprue plate travels is also a benefit--until it gets into the cavities, then Raisin City incorporates and brake cleaner must be used to get the mould civilized again. I have no experience with ATF in this venue.

I use anti-seize compound on the sprue plate hinge and tops of blocks. It doesn't migrate the way the 2 stroke oil is doing for you, and lasts a LONG time as it's rated at 1600 degrees F.

[9.3X62AL]

I use anti-seize compound on the sprue plate hinge and tops of blocks. It doesn't migrate the way the 2 stroke oil is doing for you, and lasts a LONG time as it's rated at 1600 degrees F.

Anti-seize compound.....is there a commercial or trade name for this substance? I'm not familiar with it, though have heard of its uses. Thanks for passing this along, I would like to try it.

[JCherry]

9.3X62Al,

Take a look at this old thread reference anti-seize compound.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?13590-Colloidal-copper-anti-seize-for-sprue-cutter-lube&p=153641#post153641

Have Fun,

JCherry

[9.3X62AL]

Many thanks, sir!