Cast Boolits through a supressor?

[Lizard333]

I recently purchased an AAC suppressor for my Remington 700 in 308. I am shooting my 311041 lubrisized with Carnuba Red lube. After firing 250 rounds through using my cast boolits, It is still functioning great and I havent had any problems. BTW, I am shooting these subsonic, at about 1050 FPS, to enjoy the full benefits of shooting with hearing protection. Thing is, I was just informed by AAC, that shooting any lead bullets through the suppressor is a big NO NO.

Looking on line, guys are having problems with not being able to get the "wax" out of their suppressors. Now, these are commercially made, mass produced boolits like you can buy from an online retailer that are lubed with crayon like lube, made to withstand shipping and abuse while en route. With my own experiance, I have found my boolits in the berm, and the lube, CR, is still intact on the boolit.

What do you guys think? Spending a 1000$ on a suppressor, and then destroying it with my own cast boolits isn't something I a m looking forward to. I also figured, worst cased, I could maybe soak the suppressor in hot soapy water like my Lubrisizer dies, and clean the lube, if any, out. Any thoughts?

Thanks for looking, any help would be greatly appreciated!

[mpmarty]

Does your can have replaceable wipes?

[Lizard333]

This is the suppressor:
http://www.advanced-armament.com/762-SDN-6_p_433.html

I don't think it does

[303Guy]

At that price I'd have thought it would be able to take anything. I'm working on a design for paper patch and lubed boolits as well as granular or any filler. I have been lubing the bases of bullets in a simple design and so far there is no sign of anything untoward happening. The lube is intended to provide a protective coating on the innards - made from 4140 which does rust. So far no rust but so there's no sign of rust (and no copper fouling). Of course there is a difference - mine are full power loads. I speculate one could encounter problems if there is gas blow-by which cuts the lead. That could deposit a build-up on the can innards, perhaps.

[JeffinNZ]

I have two suppressors. Both are Gunworks NZ manufacture and can be disassembled for cleaning. I use cast boolits all the time in both without any issue. I'm with 303Guy. For THAT sort of money I would expect to be able to fire anything shoulder launched down it.

[dudel]

This is the suppressor:
http://www.advanced-armament.com/762-SDN-6_p_433.html

I don't think it does

That sure looks like a sealed suppressor. I have a AAC Prodigy and a Liberty Constitution. Both are user serviceable cans (the core unscrews from the can).

I know that when I shoot lead through the Prodigy or Constitution, they are both much dirtier than when I run plated or FMJ through them. Getting (what I believe to be) vaporized lead off of them is a pain. Soaking the parts didn't help much. I resorted to soda blasting the can and the baffles. Personally, I wouldn't shoot lead through a sealed can. Heck, even AAC tells you not to.

[Smitty's Retired]

I found this -------> http://www.silencershop.com/wp-content/uploads/aac_762-sdn-6_manual.pdf

You probably received one with your can. If does not say anything about being able to disassemble the can, but ...... depends on how it was constructed. May be more info on the net.

I was just wondering if their was a way you could clean it with near boiling water, maybe soaking in the boiling water, then rigging your own pump to flush the water through the can to possibly flush out the lube? Considering beeswax lube becoming molten in boiling water, it may flush out.

[Larry Gibson]

Not generally a good idea to shoot cast through a suppressor that can not be readily disassembled for cleaning. Depending on lube, alloy, load, bullet design and powderthere will be carbon, lube and possibly lead buildup in the suppressor. Takes a while but it will adversely affect the sound signature and effectiveness of the suppressor. I shot a lot of cast through my Sionics and eventually had to remove it from the rifle and boiled it in hot soapy water and even in a carburator cleaner for a couple days and never did get all the carbone and lead deposits out. Evenually just rebuilt it entirely. I don't shoot cast through it anymore. I do shoot cast through suppressors that can be disassembled and cleaned though.

Larry Gibson

[willie_pete]

I haven't had a problem yet, but I have read of a few folks who have used sonic cleaners to good effect. I don't shoot a lot of cast through mine, but I do shoot some.

WP

[shooter93]

What Larry said....for cast I much prefer cans that can be taken apart if you're going to shoot it much.

[Fishman]

What about powder coated or Hi-tek coated boolits?

[Lizard333]

What about powder coated or Hi-tek coated boolits?

This might be a very good option.

[Artful]

You have several ways to clean a sealed can - but for Lead or that matter 22 Rimfire I prefer a can that can be disassembled for cleaning.

On your sealed can you can...

1) to remove H2O dissolvable or low temp.compounds you can boil it in water.

2) to remove carbon compounds you need a solvent to soak it away Gunzilla and the Slip 2000 works. there are others like seafoam.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kerBVysGb0M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfSEBFvC11Q
3) to remove metal deposits like Lead - "The DIP" which does work on lead but forms a toxic compound that must be carefully disposed of.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVVplUrE2Yc
Always dispose of Lead Acetate in safe manner.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead(II)_acetate


An aqueous solution of lead(II) acetate is the byproduct of the 50/50 mixture of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar used in the cleaning and maintenance of stainless steel firearm suppressors (silencers) and compensators. The solution is agitated by the bubbling action of the hydrogen peroxide, and the main reaction is the dissolution of lead deposits within the suppressor by the acetic acid, which forms lead acetate. Because of its high toxicity, this chemical solution must be appropriately disposed by a chemical processing facility or hazardous materials center. Alternatively, the solution may be reacted with sulfuric acid to precipitate nearly insoluble lead(II) sulfate. The solid may then be removed by mechanical filtration and is safer to dispose of than aqueous lead acetate.

NOTE: sonic cleaners can damage Aluminum/Anodizing, & Surface Finishing - Some solvents like Simple Green can damage metals if left on too long. Do your research!

[L1A1Rocker]

That silencer is full auto rated for 762 Nato - it's fully welded for maximum strength.

With each shot there will be vaporized lube sticking to the innards of the can. Over time it will build up and you'll have a problem. I'm glad Artful posted that info. I remember this being discussed (on silencertalk or 300blktalk) and that there were two solutions that you will need. One is to dissolve the lead deposits and the other to dissolve the lube deposits. I just couldn't remember what was what. Thanks to Artful you have the links. GREAT JOB

[wallenba]

What would worry me a bit, is a gas check coming off without realizing it, the follow up shot could do some damage. It does happen. Once in a while someone will lose part of their chronograph to one.

[Lizard333]

No gas check used. They are only going 1060 FPS.

[303Guy]

I'd hazard a guess that your velocity and the fact that your recovered boolits are still coated would indicate you won't have a problem. However, full tilt loads have a helluva blast at the muzzle which has a self cleaning effect. Light loads might deposit a lot more powder residue than hot loads. Might.

[MakeMineA10mm]

Tagged for future reference.

[Artful]

What kind of future are you envisioning MMA10mm?