Need help IDing Savage 99

[Jim]

The LGS has a Savage model 99 in .300 Savage. The S/N is 621601. I'd like to know the year of manufacture and the letter that goes with the model number.

I'd appreciate any help offered. Thanks, fellas.

[richhodg66]

Most f them were 99EGs as I understand it. Fairly long and slim and points very nicely. I like the onne I have and it's a good shooter with cast, I'm learningthe short neck of that round doesn't seem to be as problematic as people say.

They made the 99R which is considerably heavier and has a rounded fore end. I'm told they're the best shooters and I'll have one someday.

Does this one have the safety on the tang or by the trigger? Seems I read where after about 1960, they changed to a tang safety on all but the 99E, which was a cheapened version with hardwood stocks and no visible magazine counter (I have one of those too in .308 and it's a good shooter too).

Worst case, got to the Savage Collector's Forum on 24 hour campfire, they have some serious collectors of 99s on there.

Mind if I ask what the LGS had it priced at?

[021]

With that serial number it will be a brass rotor, lever safety model. Schnable forearm-EG model. Round forearm R or RS model. I believe that serial number might be too early for an "F". Check the lever boss code (where the lever connects to the receiver) it should have a letter stamped on it. "A" started in 1949 as I remember, "B" 1950 and so on, this will give you a manufacture date. The "F" has a peculiar raised area on the barrel where the rear sight sits. That would be a dead giveaway its an "F".

[pietro]

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While most gunshops won't allow any disassembly, if the forend's removed, the model letter(s) should be stamped into the front face of the receiver wall, on either one side (Model 99R, 99F), or on both sides (Model 99EG).

If I were looking at purchasing it, I'd be more concerned that someone didn't D/T the front receiver ring for a scope mount base (it should be D/T'd only on the rear, for a peep sight - which scope bases were made to fit).

If the rifle's D/T'd, when it didn't leave the factory like that, then there's no way I'd pay what most sellers seem to think their rifles are worth.



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[richhodg66]

I don't know at what point they started drilling and tapping for scope mounts, though the 99Rs were drilled and tapped at the factory before the others.

My 99EG is in the 582,XXX serial number range and is not drilled and tapped. Since I put a nice Lyman receiver sight on it, it shoots well with cast Ideal 31141 and 27 grains of IMR4895 with a little Dacron filler. My plan is for this to be my primary deer rifle.

Jim, if you've never had a '99, they are marvelous things. Very ahead of their time.

[starmac]

Drilled and tapped will mean something to a collector, but mine has been drilled for over 35 years that I know of, and I wouldn't take what some guys think they are worth for it either. lol In fact I am glad some were drilled and tapped, so the collectors don't want them and they can still be used for what they were intended.

[gnoahhh]

The lever boss code (a number and a letter inside a tiny oval located on the leading edge of the lever pivot boss) is the only accurate means of dating a 99 of that vintage. Serial numbered receivers weren't built up into rifles in the order they were made. (The letters equal the year, starting in 1949 with "A", and skipping "O" and "Q" for obvious reasons.) Further identification is simple. Slender forearm ending in a delicate schnabel= 99EG. Heavy rounded forearm= 99R or RS. Raised boss on the barrel to support the rear sight + generally lighter/shorter, with full forearm= 99F.

Factory D/T'ed 99's had the "Savage Model 99" imprint on the top of the receiver ring moved down to the side of the receiver ring to avoid the scope mount holes. If the D/T'ed holes pierce the writing, it was done aftermarket.