Shooting "HOT" glue booits

[bangerjim]

No...........they are not really hot! But the load behind them is.

I have been casting and shooting cast hot melt glue (HMG) boolits in 9mm and 45LC for sometime now because they are cheeeeep.

You cannot just cut off hunks of hot melt glue sticks and shoot them as seen on some YouTube videos. No accuracy and they tumble like crazy. And try to find a 9mm stick! And......wax sucks......and you cannot use it again until you cast it.

Have been just shooting HMG boolits with primer only. Usually mags after drilling out the hole on the 45's. Important - or the primers will back out. Mark your cases somehow so you will NEVER use them for real loads! I paint the ends red.

"Tumble lube" with mica powder. See below.

These will NOT cycle a semi.


Depending on the rifling in your barrel, you mag get a bit of glue ( but not melted) left behind. It comes out very easily with a standard brush and patch cleaning, something you should do anyway. My 9mm has hex rifling and you can see the tiny grooves in the slug after it is retrieved. The 45LC carbines does not have any problems.

And no.............casting hot melt glue in your mold will not ruin it as some on here have complained about. I use Pam as a casting lube and an ice cube rubbed along the bottom to cool the mold after injection of the glue. Don't use one of the cheepee glue guns you have to press on the end of the stick! Buy and use a good trigger-feed one. If you put Pam applied with a Q-Tip in the sprues, excess will pop out when cool and the cast boolits almost fall out of the cavities. If not, spary a bit more on.

You can crank these out pretty fast.

I shoot into a cardboard box 14"x14"x12" with a 3" thick phonebook in the back (just to be safe) and several old towels folded up in the front. All held in place in the front with 5 layers of cardboard. The target hangs on the outside of that. You can recover AND reuse these glue boolits quite a few times. Just clean off any crud and black stuff with a bit of lacuqer thinner on a rag. That softens up the glue a bit but clean almost instantly. Then drop 'em in a Ziplok bag and dump a bit of powedered mica in for lube. After "tumble-lubing" them in the bag (just like originally) , dump them in a box for reloading at a future time. They should be silvery in color. Mica works very well as a lube for these! No Alox of 45/45/10 needed here. Not even Johnsons wax. In fact, any of that stuff will soften and dissolve the glue and the boolit will be stuck in the case.

Do not load glue boolits immediately after casting them. Wait a day to let them cool/dry/harden a bit......and they do!

I cast up several hundred at at time, as cleaning the Pam 100% off the mold and them resmokng takes a bit of time with lacquer thinner. But Pam and water (the melting ice cube) cannot harm aluminum~~~~! And since you can reuse them, your supply can lost a long time.



Just a note..............to ponder and play with! Something to do when you get tired of melting lead.

Good shootin! :lol:

[dk17hmr]

Yep.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?17577-Casting-hot-glue-boolits

Most people on here just use a primer.

[rsrocket1]

Are you pushing the bullets all the way down? Seating them to normal COL won't get you enough pressures to drive it to any proper velocity. If you push the bullet all the way down, the primer alone is usually enough to go through both sides of a cardboard box, but stop inside if you put a towel in it.

Be sure to have good ventilation because that primer is a big contributor to lead poisoning, probably more so than the lead boolits we cast.

71747

[MOcaster]

I have kind of done the same thing. I swaged some 9mm cases up to 40 cal, just the case, no lead, and filled it with melted wax. It gives my a 70 grain jacketed bullet that is .6130 inches long. They get pushed full power. Maybe even more so. I worked up a load of Titegroup for them that will cycle my Glock. I don't have a chronograph but they are screaming. They pretty much explode on contact. I have only found little pieces of wax in a 1/2" deep crater in mud. They are really fun.

[khmer6]

I love hearing about gloobits.

[Jim]

Looks like you've stumbled on something there, Banger. [smilie=1:

You really oughta' take time to read that thread that Dk linked in post #2. It only started six years ago.

[2AMMD]

There is a company that sells wax bullets and brass modified to shoot them. They sell brass drilled to use a 209 shotgun primer. I havn't tried it yet with the glue bullets. Just found some 209 primers yesterday and plan on drilling a few cases to try.

[Texantothecore]

I have wondered how these would work on squirrels or rabbits. Has anyone tried them for hunting?

[fcvan]

I took some 40 S&W Glueblits out on dad's farm in my 38-40/40 S&W Vaquero and thumped a few jackrabbits. I have shot a lot of wax and lately glue with just primers. I took some of the nastiest brass I had (very black) and drilled the flash holes. That way I can keep them separate from my good brass.

Glue needs lube and various lubes work. I finally stuck with LLA as I can reprime and shoot right there. I've also shot 38 and 9mm glue but wheelguns are the best. Using the glue or wax in semi autos is good for draw drills. My neighbor likes to hold 'competition' in his basement hallway. He has a couple dents in the drywall where the box ducked out of the way. I'm sure the box ducked, it couldn't have been me :)

[Cane_man]

you would not want to get hit with one of these... i use hot glue on top of my snake loads, they are probably 1/4" thick glue section, and they easily penetrate a milk jug at 10', can't imagine what a full size gloobit would do under a full load

[mrjohn]

bangerjim I going to try the bb thing. I think I am going to have fun with this

[Wolfsbane]

Why not glue a couple of the cast glue bullets together into an extra long one that approximates one seated to the OAL of a conventional cartridge while seated against the primer? Even doing that it would probably be lighter than a normal bullet.

You could do it by using a blob of hot glue from a gun or by heating the base of the upper bullet with a heat or flame source before pressing into the tip of the previous one.


If you push them all the way down, you have the same problem as using just glue sticks....they will NOT work in a 9mm semi because the case lip hangs up on the receiver mechanism. It is expecting a cart with a certain length AND a boolit on the end of it!

[Reverend Al]

Or what about using a longer length of .358 mould for a 200, 225 or 250 grain rifle boolit to make the pistol gloobits? Then you could seat it deeper in the case and much closer to the primer, but still have a longer than normal nosed gloobit that would allow you to hand feed them in a 9mm semi-auto pistol? Maybe you could do the same thing and use a rifle length .45 calibre boolit mould to make some gloobits for the .45 ACP and .45 Colt? The extra weight and length of a "magnum" gloobit might also eliminate the need to use an additional light powder charge too? Just a few thoughts to ponder ...