Non-Sabot ML Cast Bullet Hardness Question

[ArizonaFlinter]

I understand that when molding balls for ball and patch, pure lead works best. When casting bullets for a muzzleloader, with a twist in the 1 in 28, 32 inch range (non-sabot) how hard should the lead mixture be? I have some Lyman (not pure lead – pencil test) ingots, some wheel weights from days gone by, and some pure lead.

Seeking the wisdom of this group

[dtknowles]

You did not say what caliber or style bullet but I don't think it matters. I recommend you use pure lead. Minie balls need to be soft to expand to the bore upon ignition. MaxiBalls need to be soft because the leading band is engraved by the rifling during loading and rear band is expected to bump up to bore diameter upon ignition. Sort of the same story for REAL bullets. The MaxiBalls and REAL could maybe be made to work with a little harder lead but I would hate to get one stuck halfway down the barrel.

One other consideration is all the molds for these bullets are expecting to be cast with pure lead to come out the right diameter. You can mess with temperature and alloy to change the diameter a little if your mold does not drop slugs at the right diameter for your barrel.

Tim

[oldfart1956]

Pure if at all possible. Found out that alloyed Maxi's worked fine the day you cast them (still relativly soft) a coupl'a months later we were driving them downbore with a 3lb. hammer. Same with the Reals and other conicals. Audie....the Oldfart..

[nagantguy]

good question I just dropped some REAL 250 gr. .50 cals I did not use pure lead but a very soft alloy. don't know the exact mix but it went down the bore fin. they dropped from the mould at .509. driving one through they came out .508 and .500 where the rifling engraved. haven't shot any yet but plan to Sunday.

[nagantguy]

by the way what do you plan to use for lube?

[ArizonaFlinter]

by the way what do you plan to use for lube?

I'm thinking about either ALOC liquid, or a home brew of:

1 – Lb. Refined Bee's Wax
1 – Lb Vaseline (use no substitutes)
1 – Lb. Paraffin Wax - Gulf Wax Household Paraffin Wax, 16 oz - WalMart
1 – Tbs. S.T.P. Oil Treatment
2 – Crayons (color Red or Your Choice – maybe Blue) remove paper

as found at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBDFO0ftCQc

What are your thoughts?

[Smoke4320]

pure lead .. Lees real bullets "usually" do a fine job in most muzzleloaders..
the bees wax will not be as sticky as the alox .. a plus if carrying extras in the field
if using alox you might consider wrapping them in paper to carry .. peal off paper to load

[ArizonaFlinter]

Smoke 4320

I am new to ALOX. I expet my first bottle next Monday. I didn't understamd that the ALOX (liquid) would windup sticky.

Have you any experience with the “Tumble Lubing--Made Easy & Mess-Free” formula? (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?67654-Tumble-Lubing-Made-Easy-amp-Mess-Free)

[Tatume]

I put a small amount of tin in my alloy to help the bullets fill out, maybe one half of one percent. They still load easily in my Parker-Hale Volunteer.

Round balls can be any alloy, and wheel weight metal works very well. Wheel weight balls in my Rigby one-ounce gun kill like lightning.

Take care, Tom

[runfiverun]

there is absolutely no way I would use either vaseline, parrafin or alox in a muzzle loader.
b-wax Crisco and lanolin is more my style, I like to be able to push the fouling out or in as the case may be.

[Smoke4320]

I was speaking of alox only and should have stated depending on the temps where
you hunt. here in nc we can have 90 degree days during muzzleloader season.
makes some lubes nearly liquid/sticky again
sorry I powdercoat all my boolits so no lube is needed anymore
quick painless and so easy come cleaning time

[ArizonaFlinter]

Smoke 4320 Thanks for introducing me to Powder Coating. Looks interesting. I think I will have to try that. Will no doubt have more questions when I get into it (ie. where do you buy powder etc.). Hope you won't mind if I throw some of those questions your way.

[Jupiter7]

Smoke 4320 Thanks for introducing me to Powder Coating. Looks interesting. I think I will have to try that. Will no doubt have more questions when I get into it (ie. where do you buy powder etc.). Hope you won't mind if I throw some of those questions your way.

You can go cheap and get the $6 a lb bottle at harbor freight. Or you can google "powder by the pound", many colors and choices, a little more money.