noob question - sprue plates

[johnh57]

My old lyman 2 cav .357 and .457 molds are real easy to cut the sprue - a decent whack with a mallet is all it takes.

The 4 cavity molds - on a lyman 452460 and the NOE 4 cavity 135 gr 9mm mold seem to take a much harder whack - and usually more than one.

Is it ok/not ok/other to rest the mold handle just above the bolt to support the mold handles when whacking the plate? With the mold handles supported it easier to get a good solid hit and seems to take a lot less force than free handing the mold/handles. Wondering if this is the path to destroying a set of mold handles.

I'm using an old wooden headed mallet, must have about a 3" diameter barrel shaped head on it. The mallet face plates are an inset hard red rubber/plastic that is due to be replaced if I can find a suitable face material.

[sthwestvictoria]

Of course a 4 sprue cut is going to take more force than a 2 sprue cut however there may be some things to look at, particularly time before cutting and sprue plate screw tension.
I cound one thousand, two thousand etc to six then cut with my Lee aluminium.
My lovely new brass CBE mold gets ten thousand then cut.

Sprue plates need to be quite loose, swinging free under their own weight when hot. Starting out I thought i couldn't get that sprue plate tight enough. HOwever if the sprue plate screw is two tight it will skew the plate and I was getting fins around the base of my boolits. A read here and a loosen and lubrication (two stroke oil) to sprue screw and things are much easier.

[41 mag fan]

Never used a mallet on mine, always opened them by hand.

[BBQJOE]

Never used a mallet on mine, always opened them by hand.
I learn something new here every day.:grin:

:shock:

[Cherokee]

What you have been doing seems fine to me. For the Lyman 4 cavity, I usually lay the mold on its side on a small block of wood and wack the sprue plate. Been doing that for about 50 years and still have the moulds and handles.

[runfiverun]

open them sooner.
I push my 4 cav's open with my thumb.

[mdi]

Oh yeah, well I can open my 6 cavity with my little finger....[smilie=1:

[oldfart1956]

Lawd have mercy! Take the head off that big whacker and just use the handle to poosh the sprue cutter open. :) Even the 4 banger shouldn't need mauled open. I use a tomahawk handle (throughback to my mt. man days) with a 3 inch finishing nail drove into the end. I use the nail to clear lead boogers from the sprueplate and to pick thru boolits as the puddle sets up on the next cast. Once I'm casting that hawk handle never leaves my hand till I'm done. I use it to rotate the sprue cutter back into place after dropping the boolits as well. Audie...the Oldfart..

[hickfu]

I use my thumb to open mine, all 5 cavity aluminum.

Doc

[supv26]

I discovered that if I have to use a mallet to cut the sprue then I've let it cool too much and I'm running too cold. I can cut any of mine with my thumb and the six bangers just slip open.

[David2011]

A little Sprue Plate Lube from Bullshop doesn't hurt. I'm a big fan of the product. When I DO use a mallet it's a hammer handle sans hammer head. +1 for opening by gloved hand.

David

[SciFiJim]

I'm another fan of pushing the sprue plate open with a gloved thumb.

I DO have an old hammer handle to tap the mold handle nut with when needed to drop boolits from the mold.

For right handed casters. (all of this happens pretty quick)
After the sprue has dimpled and silvered over, place the mold in your gloved right hand with fingers pointing upward behind mold and thumb against sprue plate end.
Bracing your fingers against the back of the mold, push with you right thumb, cutting and dropping the sprue onto your raised fingers.
Continue to push the sprue plate until it is out of the way to drop the boolits.
Quickly slip the still hot sprue back into your melt and reach your right hand for your knocker.
Rotate left hand holding the mold until it is upside down and open with the fingers of your left hand.
If boolits do not immediately drop, tap the mold handle screw with the knocker to encourage the boolits to do so. Experience will teach you how hard you have to do this.
After boolits drop, rotate mold upright, swing sprue plate back into place with right hand and you are ready for the next pour.

This whole process should only take a few (less than five) seconds.

It is up to you whether you place the sprue back in the melt right away or not. I like to do so to keep the sprue lead hot and not have to reheat it when adding a bunch back in.

[runfiverun]

i'm super close to jim.
on 2 cavity molds I just turn the mold over right at the edge of the pot and open the plate, the sprue goes right in the pot.

[johnh57]

Thanks - I think I must be waiting a bit too long. the bottom of the bullets is rough - from the descriptions I've let the mold rest too long. I've been pouring, watching the sprue frost, moving the last drop bullets out of the way, then cutting the sprue.

[SciFiJim]

I drop my casts onto a folded towel, about a foot and a half on each side area.
This means I usually don't have to move boolits around to find a place to drop the next mold's casting.

Wearing gloves on both hands not only protects you from burns, it discourages you from trying to pick up a boolit to examine it.

You shouldn't be more than glancing at the boolits until after you are done casting or taking a break to refill and reheat the pot.

[johnh57]

A professor of mine once said the only good thing about beating your head against the wall is that it feels so good when you stop!

Thanks - watch for the center to pull in - and open it with thumb pressure and a gloved hand. Works like a charm.

I do have Bull Plate lube - it does help.

[GaryN]

I also use a gloved thumb to open the sprue plate. I also reversed my mold in the handles so that the sprue plate is over the handles. Then I don't have to reach up to push it.