Any .38 Special reloading tricks/worries?

[Grumpa72]

I have been reloading the three semi-auto pistol calibers (with my cast boolits) plus 30.06, 30 Carbine and .223 for several years now. Due to rising costs and availability I decided to jump into .38 special but I am concerned because of the difference in crimp, roll versus taper. Using Lee dies and a Lee Classic Cast Turret, do I have any worries or just follow the die set up instructions? This is not a question of powder, primer or projectiles (lead SWC 158 grain) just actual reloading issues for the .38.

thank you,
grumpa

[Poygan]

I don't think you will have any problems - I think the .38 special is an easy round to load. For roll crimped rounds, I try to flair the cases just enough to start the boolits into the case. I also try to minimize the roll crimp to not work the brass excessively.

[Ben]

I ( and most everyone else that I know ) will place a light conventional roll crimp into the crimp groove of a bullet like the 358477 or the 358429 in 38 Spec. loads.

Have shot many thousands with this technique.

Ben

[1Shirt]

IMO, one of the easiest hand gun ctgs to load. Good advice above.
1Shirt!

[Muddydogs]

I go the other route with the 38 and lead, I like to put a light taper crimp on the case mouth just enough to remove the belling. For heavy loads I increase the taper crimp a little more. The taper crimp works the brass less and the revolver really doesn't care if its shooting a taper or roll crimp round. The roll crimp I save for jacketed loads just because I have one die for each crimp so the taper is left set for lead and the roll crimp die is left set for the jacketed bullets I load.

[BD]

The only significant difference in loading the .38sp I can think of is that you do need to be aware of the seating depth/ crimp groove/ crimp relationship so that the crimp is not starting before the brass can roll into the groove if you're seating and crimping in one operation. The 38sp cases are thinner, and will buckle slightly if the crimp digs in while the boolit is still moving down into the case. Longer than average cases will occasionally cause this as well.

[rbuck351]

I bell just enough to start a lead bullet, then just barely remove the bell with very light to no crimp. With this method it makes little difference whether you use cast or jacketed also little difference whether you roll or taper crimp. 38spl usually doesn't have enough recoil to jump crimp and the less you mess with the case mouth the longer the brass will last. Nice easy round to load and shoot.

[Bisbee]

I also use a very light taper crimp, just enough to remove the bell. I have shot many rounds this way with no problems.

[Charlie Two Tracks]

Lee's factory crimp die has a carbide sizing ring in it that can swag down the size of your boolit when you crimp it. I knocked the carbide ring out of mine because of that reason. You may want to check by pulling a loaded round and see if it is getting sized down or not.

[mdi]

My opinion may differ, but, don't worry about how much flare you put into the case mouth for now. Put enough in to get the job done, and not shave any lead. How much will you shorten the case life? 5 reloads? The .38 Special is designed for roll crimps and you can experiment with how much works for you. I started reloading with .38 Specials in '69 and used a Lee Loader and liked medium to heavy roll crimps. As my experience grew, I refined my methods, but still like a firm roll crimp even though it isn't "necessary" (I still don't worry how many times my .38s get reloaded. I look at each case before I start reloading and catch any defects. I have some nickel plated brass that has been reloaded so many times the nickel is worn very thin). Reloading the .38 Special is quite simple and forgiving and there are a bunch of powders that will work (I started with Bullseye and still use it today, amoung several other powders). I like to separate seating/crimping into 2 steps as I think I can control things better that way. If you've done any reloading before the .38 Special should a piece o' cake...:-P

[gwpercle]

Don't get all concerned about measuring how long the loaded round is or obsessing with OAL and such. Most cast revolver bullets have a crimp groove, just crimp into the groove. Don't measure nothing, if it chambers OK you good to go. Something I do is seat the bullet in one step and crimp them in a seperate step. A roll crimp can sometimes scrape a tiny bit of lead as it is being seated, this two step seat / crimp eliminates that.
Be careful...reloading and shooting 38 special , especially in a good revolver can become very addictive. I been hooked for years. And once you start casting your own bullets...there is no hope for you.

Gary

[dbosman]

If any questions of accuracy come up, purchase some factory wad cutter target loads.
When I first started with a .38 I thought the gun was at fault. After shooting factory wad cutters, I found out I was the problem. When you find a load that does what you want -every time- stop experimenting and start duplicating.

[FredBuddy]

All great advice, especially seat and crimp in separate operations.

I also learned a long time ago that max loads are a waste of energy.

Enjoy.

[Grumpa72]

Ok, GREAT advice. Thank you. Now, here is where my lack of knowledge comes in. For 9mm, .40 S&W, and .45 acp the die, when properly adjusted, sets the proper amount of taper crimp. I assume that, since this is a .38 die, that it can only do a roll crimp - right or wrong? Some have stated "taper crimp" when rolling .38s. How does the die do a taper crimp if it is a properly set up .38 die set? Btw, I ordered a carbide 3 die set without the factory crimp die. I didn't see a need for it.

Thank you for the comments.

added:
I will be using this bullet http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=52&category=5&secondary=9&keywords=. Not having done the .38 before, I assume that I will be crimping right below the shoulder that is shown?

[Shiloh]

An easy, forgiving, and economical round to load. Toughest part is getting primers.

Shiloh

[gefiltephish]

Use a separate taper crimp die. Lee has one for about 9 bucks and it works just fine. Leave your seating die back out a turn or two so it won't crimp.

[kir_kenix]

I also seat and crimp in different opperations. I use very little crimp, unless I'm shooting +p loads out of a J-frame. In this case it is probably a good idea to use a firm crimp for fear of a round working its way out and tying up a gun. As has been said, its a good idea to just bell the case enough to start a boolit. .

38 special cases will last a long, long time if you use target to mid range loads. I'm still loading some US 38 special cases that were my great grandfathers. I can't read the headstamps anymore (I couldn't when they were given to me) and occasionaly I find a case with a vertical split after firing. Since I load these really light over BE, it doesn't bother me. I wouldn't even hazard a guess at how many times they have been reloaded since the early 50's.

[MtGun44]

If you are using a boolit that has a crimp groove, you can do a fine job
of seating and crimping with one die. If you are seating in another location
than the crimp groove or the design does not have a crimp groove, you
should crimp as a separate step.

.38 Spl is pretty easy, just avoid double charges - lg case can easily hold
two charges of many powders.

Bill

[Grumpa72]

Thank you again. The dies arrive tomorrow, the brass is tumbling right now and my components are set out. I appreciate the advice and comments.

[mdi]

"Normally" a crimp die for .38 Special will be a roll crimp. I say normally 'cause I've read of some supplied with a taper crimp die. As you can tell by the varied answers, it may be just personal preference, whatever works best for you. My .38 Specials are usually just "fun" rounds and get a light roll crimp. Occasionally I'll load some light wadcutters for informal "target shooting" and taper crimp lightly. But my house gun is loaded with DEWC over a stiff load of W231 with a med to firm crimp, which suits me/my guns well...

[Grumpa72]

68323

Here is a photo of my completed work. I have 10 each with charges of Win 231 at 3.1, 3.4, and 3.7 grains over the Missouri 158 grain LSWC bullet and I have a couple of questions.

1. In this photo, the bullet on the left has an OAL of 1.475 and the right one is 1.465. I know some of you have said don't worry about OAL but crimp to the groove. As you can see this groove is pretty wide but the bullet on the right looks better with the crimp right at the edge of the shoulder. Is this one on the right better?
2. I adjusted the Lee dies according to instructions but that roll crimp looks extreme. I have no experience with roll crimps so is this good, bad or ????

[Grumpa72]

I took my Colt Commando out and found that it really liked the loads with 3.4 grains. I had a 5 round group at ten yards that can be covered by a quarter. The 3.7 grain group was good but high and to the left of POA. I am going to load some more tonight to see how my Colt Cobra, 2 inch snub, likes them.

[BBQJOE]

I use a loadmaster. I load .44. 9mm, & .38.
The only round I have ever had any squibs with is the .38. It's an awfully long cartridge, and when loading mild loads for the wife, the powder is hard to verify. I might just get lockout/ powder cop or something for that round.

[MT Gianni]

I think you can get by with less crimp Grumpa. There will not be much recoil at all and you just want to stabilize the bullet preventing movement with that load. Either length is fine but use the same length for all.