Building a Matchlock

[missionary5155]

Greetings from Peru
Decided to start a new thread for the rest of the matchlock build. This will take awhile.
Decided after looking at many photos of existing old matchlocks there are few that are the same. So I really will not try to copy any one exactly. Mine will be representative of a standard Cavalier but with no "bells or whistles". Bare bone type any traveler or workingman would have about the home. The photo behind the stock is about the basic stock form I am going with.
Wood .. had high hopes of comming up with some ash or similar wood. Not here. Next was a redish tint straight grain wood used for door and window frames but to get a piece large enough I had to buy a log.. enough to build many. So in the end I located a plank reasonable straight at the mill of a wood much like pine.
Last Saturday evening I wacked out the basic stock shape. Monday started hogging out the round barrel channel which I finished today.
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The third photo is the barrel sitting in the stock. Barrel is 50 inches long. Stock channel is 47.5 inches. May cut the barrel back to 49 inches as it just looks better. May cut back to stock length.
Barrel is just a half inch gas pipe. Had hopes of using schedule 80 high prressure pipe. Not right now as this is hard to get and lots of questions to answer. I am not interested in getting a manufactures liscence either.
So I will have a "corner sitter" matchlock. I would never be able to take it out shooting or hunting anyway. This would involve registartion, proof of the origon of the parts ( I am making them all) and other fun loops to jump through. So the gas pipe will be fine.
Next step .. I will mount the matchlock. That will be in a couple days.
Mike in Peru

[TheGrimReaper]

Now this I gotta see. This'll be one neat project.

[missionary5155]

Good evening
Had a few spare hours over the last 3 days and got some work dome on the Matchlock.
Inletting a Matchlock lock has a few interesting differences from inletting a flintlock. The lever trigger extends below the lower lock plate edge so you have to hallow out a cavity behind the wood that is below the lower lock plate. Fortunately my lock plate is thick and gave me plenty of thick wood still showing below lock plate.

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Included is a previous photo of the completed lock inside view so you can see the trigger lever. That pivots up and down on the pivot screw. Also space must be opened up for the return spring which is a simple process. Next consideration is the bar that attaches to the trigger lever. That bar goes up through the bottom of the stock and threads onto the lever trigger. That bar is what the shooter "raises up" thus initiating the movement of the curved "serpentine" that holds the burning match. Again trial and recut a little more for that bar is in the works next free time that I have.
67616 Laid a small piece of red plastic in that space that must be augered out for the trigger lever to drop down into to attain complete travel resetting the "Serpentine" in full rest position. Also placed the sideplate into the photo so you can see how far down below the plate bottom edge the trigger bar moves. The flash really messes with the actual view. Also in the photo is the completed trigger bar. The military models I have viewed had cuts in the trigger bar to facilitate gripping and probably "feeling" the trigger bar with gloved hands.
Placed the barrel into the stock and drew in the future stock form to be able to visualize what this matchlock will look like and keep straight where wood will remain in the end.
The close up shows about where the flash pan will sit.. small rectangular figure drawn on the wood. The flash pan will have a rotating cover to seal the flash pan so trash and flaming embers cannot accidently enter pan during non firing conditions.
The screw sticking out of the lock plate is the "safety screw" which yet does not have the "finger turnbuckle" attached. By screwing that into the lock it blocks the trigger lever from being actuated. Not all matchlocks had these. They seen to be on military types from about 1520's to 1550's but possibly others. This was an addition safety feature so weapon could not be accidently discharged.
Mike in Peru

[I'll Make Mine]

This is starting to tempt me to build one of these. No, don't have any need for one (other than it would let me go out in the woods in muzzle loader season, if I ever get where I can hit anything), but it'd be cool...

[missionary5155]

Good morning I'll Make Mine
Should you decide to start a build PM me and I will pass along a few tips .
Mike in Peru

[cat223]

Oh, No! The suspense is killing me. I will be subscribing to this post. I have to hear the end of this story. I think I want ont too.

[Hanshi]

This is a cool project; I like matchlocks. No way I'd try building one. With my skill level it would probably look like an inner-city zip gun.

[missionary5155]

Good evening
Had a few more hours here and there to progress. Decided to do some more stock work getting it into the basic form of some of the military type stocks I have viewed. This is not a copy of anyone. Made to fit my body and likes.

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The "breech" is included. Needs the tang welded to the plug but that is what will be hammered into the rear of the "barrel" and pinned in place. This is not going to be a firing model. Will be my test bed to smoke some powder in the pan and ignite 20 grains through the flash hole a couple times.
In the right photo is the rough outline where the flash pan will sit with pivoting cover.

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Have not decided what to progress to next.... Maybe the breech welding and insertion.
Mike in Peru

[missionary5155]

Good afternoon
Advancing slowly with making parts and getting them installed on the stock and barrel.
Breech plug was welded together. Filed to form and hammered into barrel end. Barrel and tang were placed in stock marking where tang and breech plug needed to be inlayed which was acomplished.
Lock plate was threaded for the two through stock screws. The lock plate escusions (left side of stock) were cut, drilled, located and inlayed. Screws were cut to length.
The mechanical "safety screw" head was heated red hot and hammered into the flat turbuckle and inserted. ( located on the lower lockplate) "Safety screw" end was punched along circumfrence so it cannot fall out of the lockplate. The "serpentine screw" was soldered together to it's turbuckle head and inserted. The lock plate was completely assembled, greased and inserted with through stock screws.

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I have learned an unique respect for the old smithy's who made all their parts. So far my only regret is not having access to a real barrel.
Mike in Peru

[nekshot]

Great job Mike! I wonder what category you would list that under if you chose to bring it back to the states. To shoot these real good would demand a whole new understanding of follow thru or follow into as you anticipate ignition!

[missionary5155]

Greetings
Not going to bring it back. It would have all sorts of interesting paper work at this end to start with. I am considering bringing the lock back as that has alot of hours involved. Possibly some of the small parts also like the trigger bar and the flash pan (not made yet).
The stock is just some soft pine type wood. The "barrel" (gas pipe) is not shootable.
But it sure is enjoyable time. I do enjoy making items and watching it all come together.
Mike in Peru