Bull plate lube

[Bullshop]

Want to announce a new product we will be offering. From the research I did on synthetic lube fibers a couple years ago we first came up with our BS#2 a black powder lube. #2 was intended to provide better performance than the current leader(spg) under servere conditions of heat and low humidity.
It has worked well and proved its worth with several top notch shooters claiming a second at the Quiggley, a first at Lodi and a first in womans A class at the Ratone nationals and the MT long range championship at Forsyth.
With what we learned from BS#2 we went on to make BS speed green that I am sure most here have heard about.
Now a new application. Here is a pic of a test I did today with the new sprue plate lube (Bull Plate).
These were the two 8mm group buys I started with new today. They were treated with bull plate on the bottom of the sprue plate, tops of blocks and all alignment surfaces.
I worked for one hour with each mold and went as fast as possible, cutting sprues while still soft(quivering). There were no lead smears at all, none. I even cut some while still liquid, still no smears. There was no galling or binding of any kind.
The blocks slipped together with ease aligning themselves easily.(I also treated the hinge pins).
These molds were used as is right from the box accept for the bull plate treatment. I counted one of the piles and got 274 and remember these are single cavities. Thats 274 in one hour from a single cavity.
I am well pleased with this sprue plate lube as I have never had the little Lee molds be so trouble free run so hot and fast. This has allowed a more constant mold temp for good consistency even with interruptions in casting rhythm.
It also allows to quench from the mold at a higher temp resulting in a harder boolit. I have been able to get straight WW close to 30 bhn this way but before waiting for sprues to harden barely over 20.
Todays casting was with straight ww. They are clean and well filled out with sharp edges.
As soon as we find containers we will add this to our web sight. Plan to have two oz. containers with instructions @ $2.50 + shipping. One 2 oz. bottle will last a looooong time. Casting just got easier.
BIC/BS
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/bullshop/31dbcfcb.jpg

[Bullshop]

BullShop,

Would you mind posting a detailed description of how and where youi apply this magical substance. I want to be sure I use it correctly when it arrives.

Thanks
SharpsShooter
There will be instructions included with every order

Instructions for use of Bull Plate Lube
Bring mould up to casting temperature and fill cavities with alloy.
Be sure to have complete base fill out to avoid getting Bull Plate Lube in the cavities.
Cut the sprue and keep blocks together with boolits in cavities.
Lightly dampen a Q-tip with Bull Plate Lube and spread a light film of lube on the mould block top surface and bottom of sprue plate.
With a clean Q-tip wipe away any excess lube from both surfaces. Only a very small amount is needed.
Also apply to alignment pins and hinge points.
New or very clean mould may require more than one treatment. Reapply at the first sign of any drag on opening or closing sprue plate.
Repeat procedure at the beginning of each casting session.

I have been able to work extreamly fast with this lube, even cutting sprues while still soft enough to wiggle. The only time limiting factor has not been the sprue but the boolit itself. On very large cavities like 500 to 600gn I have cut the sprue without any hint of a smear but on opening the blocks found the alloy in the cavity not yet completely hard, and a small amount running out at the nose.
I ran a large order of 700gn 50 cal very fast and quenched them. I use an enclosed troth with baffel to carry boolits to the quench. On inspection I found many of the fairly long boolits were bent and had to trash the order and start over. I found there was a few second waighting time for the boolit to harden enough to survive the ride to the quench but even on this three cavity 700gn 50 cal mold there was only a 2 second wait to cut the sprue. I have found that waiting for the sprue to just quit quivering is more than enough time. I am not talking about the color change to the sprue being hard I mean as soon as it doesnt wiggle which on lets say a double cavity 30 cal 200gn is 1 to 2 seconds. Waighting for the sprue to harden or helping it harden some way is what I dont want. I want to cut the sprue while it is soft so it cuts easily. I use my gloved hands to cut the sprue by gently turning the plate while holding gentil downward pressure at the same time.
This allows a more constant temp for best consistancy with no chance of warpage to the plate or blocks. If you check my origonal post on this thread you will see I was able to run 274 boolits in a timed one hour period from a new Lee single cavity for the 220gn and 250gn 8mm boolits. Weight check on these showed them to be extreamly constistant and visualy they are clean and well filled out with sharp edges on the bands and base. This was with straight WW alloy run at 600F. I dont think there is any way to go faster. I doubt the sprue cooling system is even as fast, but I know it is harder on molds.
I am shure I will get some static on my views of running at a lower alloy temp and cutting soft sprues, and not hitting the plate but as I have seen said here this is what works for me. There is always more than one way to do something and I dont think anyone can argue that the points I have made are not true. Sorry about the long answer but I have a lot to say on the subject.
BIC/BS

[Bullshop]

Pat
Yes this has eliminated the need for any other lube. In the test done with the two NEW Lee molds they were new from the box and nothing was used on them accept Bull Plate. At first I was still using the pensil out of habbit but since that test I use nothing else.
SharpsShooter
I want to correct the 600F casting temp posted yesterday. I have not checked with a thermometer but for most molds just run with the dial on the RCBS set well below the lowest setting of 650F. I have had this pot rebuilt by RCBS twice and have a back up that has also been rebuilt be them. Each time they have upgraded and recalibrated the thermostatic control to be true with the reading on the dial. What I should have said was below 650F as I am not shure of the exact temp but it is most likely over 600F.
There is no need to run a pot at its highest setting, this just adds time to the boolit hardening process and increases the possibility of damage to the mold and plate especialy aluminum. A temp that will keep the sprue molten for at least one to two seconds after the pour is what works best for me. If the sprue stays molten longer the alloy temp is probably higher than need be.
The trick is to work fast to keep mold temp fluctuation between pour and drop at a minimum. A minimum temp fluctuation here leads to very consistant boolit weight.
Well there I go again!
BIC/BS