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Big_Blue
04-06-2013, 10:21 PM
I thought it might be fun to share my first smelting experience with everyone. Should be entertaining for the old timers, and educational for those just getting into casting.

I just finished smelting 420 pounds of wheel weights. It was an educational experience, and in a twisted way—an enjoyable one.

RESEARCH
First things first. I read all I could find on the subject including a few hundreds posts on this forum as well as a couple of papers downloaded from the internet. I bought Lyman's book on bullet casting and studied the chapter on metallurgy (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DWBKQY/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I didn't understand it all, but I did glean enough from it to understand the importance of temperature control.

SUPPLIES
I ordered all the gear I figured I needed. I got a 14” cast iron pot and a propane burner from my local Academy Sports store (http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_27870_-1?ICID=CRT:0269-40251-0003) and (http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_676213_-1__?N=578846088&Ntt=propane&Ntk=All). I got a temperature gauge and two sets of Lyman ingot molds from Midway USA online (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/357906/rcbs-lead-bullet-casting-thermometer?cm_cat=Cart&cm_pla=ProductDesc) and (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/496285/lyman-4-cavity-ingot-mold-with-handle). I got a full face shield and a pair of welders gloves from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO6RIE/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MRQAJG/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I picked up a metal dipper, a metal slotted spoon, and a metal spoon (without slots), three cookie trays, a pair of coveralls, and a baseball hat from the local Goodwill store. The ingot molds were on back order for weeks, so I also picked up three muffin pans from the local Goodwill—two were bare metal and one was stick free.

HUNTING WHEEL WEIGHTS
I loaded up a dolly, a scale, and a couple of empty Home Depot buckets into the back of my pickup truck. I did some arithmetic and figured I could drive 16 miles round trip for a pound of wheel weights and not spend more on gas than I was saving by casting my own lead bullets. I headed out to find wheel weights by stopping at every tire and auto repair shop I could find. On day one I headed south and drove about 40 miles round trip. I came back with about 90 pounds of wheel weights. The next time I went out I headed east and drove about 30 miles round trip. I came back with about 110 pounds of wheel weights. The last time I headed out I went south east. I traveled about 20 miles round trip and came back with about 220 pounds of wheel weights.

On each outing I played it like I was for doing it for entertainment. I told each stop that I was starting up a new hobby and was looking for cast off wheel weights. I made it a point to never look hungry and tired. If it looked like they were about to turn me down I quickly said that of course I would pay them for being allowed to salvage their weights. I probably hit 20-25 places in those three days and scored various amounts of weights at 5 or 6 of the places. Everyone was friendly, whether they had weights or not, and whether or not they were willing to give or trade them to me. In general I found the major chains a worthless effort. Not a single one was willing to give or sell me weights. All said they had a contract already setup for salvaging their waste. It was the Mom and Pop places that I did the best at. The smaller and dirtier the place the more successful I was.

SMELTING
This was the most fun part, and it was the hardest work. My first attempt took three days. On the first day I started after I got off work and only had about two hours before dark. I poured 165 pounds of wheel weights into the pot and started it cooking. I ended up shutting off the gas and letting the pot cool and its mixture solidify overnight. The second day was after work as well, but this time I removed about 45 pounds of weights from the top of the solidified mixture and started re-melting the remaining 120 pounds. Again I ran out of time and had to shut down for the evening. Day three was a day off, so I got started much earlier in the afternoon. This time I was able to complete melting the 120 pounds of wheel weights, I skimmed and fluxed, then poured 87 pounds of muffins. I was amazed at how heavy the dipper full of lead was. And each muffin tray seemed to weight a ton when I had to lift it and flip the muffins onto the cookie tray. I knew lead was heavy but it wasn't until I actually had to handle it that I fully realized just how heavy it was.

My second smelting effort was much better. I waited until I had a full day. I only put about 50 pounds of wheel weights in the pot at a time. I melted it down and skimmed off the floating stuff, then added another 50 pounds of weights. I repeated this a number of times and ended up with about 225 pounds of lead in the pot. Here's my honey shot (http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y390/Michael_R_Mardis/Reloading/Fullcauldron_zps48bf15af.jpg). By melting only 40-50 pounds at a time I found that the weight of the unheated weights on top did not hold the melted clips beneath the surface of the melted lead. This meant the unheated weights were able to touch the surface of the melted lead and were themselves then melted. This method also allowed me to skim the non-lead stuff off. On my first attempt I was never able to see the melted lead, much less skim anything off its surface. Here's the result of my second day's labor (http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y390/Michael_R_Mardis/Reloading/Muffinsareready_zpsa4f2df8c.jpg).

LESSONS LEARNED

1. Don't shirk the safety equipment. Wear a hat, a full face shield, long sleeve shirt, welder gloves, long pants, and shoes/boots. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Keep water, kids, and pets away.
2. Keep a scale, an empty bucket and a pair of work gloves in the back of your truck or trunk. Stop at anyplace you think might have a stash of wheel weights.
3. Consider getting a lift. I got this one from Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-ton-capacity-pickup-truck-crane-1647.html).
4. Recognize that some people will see your request in the same light as a pan handler on the street trying to get something for nothing. I combated this negative impression by stressing the hobby aspect, not the money saving angle.
5. Realize that some people will see you as a business opportunity. Recognize this quickly and be ready with a starting price per pound or per bucket. A five gallon bucket can hold about 150 pounds of wheel weights. Also be ready to negotiate a higher price. Know how high you are willing to go.
6. I'm getting about 73% yield on the wheel weighs. For every 100 pounds of wheel weights I'm smelting down about 73 pounds of lead.
7. I've had people give me weights for free, and I've had them charge me 10, 25, and 35 cents per pound. The current going rate for pure lead is 92 cents per pound (http://www.kitcometals.com/charts/lead.html). This means I could pay up to 1.26 per pound and break even (assuming my effort, time, and gas were free). Each of you will have to decide what maximum price you'd be comfortable with.
8. Only melt as many wheel weights as you are able to skim. Too many wheel weights will mean the stuff at the top doesn't melt and it keeps you from being able to skim the surface of the melted lead. In my 14” cast iron pot this limited me to 40-50 pounds per skimming round.
9. Lead is heavy. We all know this, but be ready to be surprised with how HEAVY LEAD IS. Make sure that whatever work tables you may be planning on using are able to handle the weight.
10. Melted lead is hot. Again, we all know this, but be ready to be surprised (again). Make sure that you plan on everything having a thick layer of wood or tile underneath it. This means the pot in which you're smelting the lead, the pan into which you're putting the skimmed clips and other non-lead things from your pot, the ingot molds (muffin pans), and the cookie trays you're planning to flip the ingots/muffins onto.
11. Make sure you have enough time for a smelting session. Anything less than 3 hours was a waste of effort for me. On my second attempt I spent 7 hours smelting 307 pounds of wheel weights.

williamwaco
04-06-2013, 10:26 PM
Nice Pix.

Always good to "see" it.

luky-dude
04-06-2013, 11:03 PM
How much and with what did you flex?

obssd1958
04-06-2013, 11:08 PM
Great write-up, and a lot better than my first effort:

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m9/obssd1958/shooting/100_3396.jpg

http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m9/obssd1958/shooting/100_3398.jpg

Big_Blue
04-07-2013, 12:01 AM
I fluxed with candles. I bought a pack of one-hundred 1" tall candles. I dropped six of them into the skimmed molten lead. While the wax was burning I stirred the wax into the lead. After the flames went out. I skimmed off the junk floating on the lead. I did this twice.

eljefeoz
07-11-2013, 10:07 AM
Great job and lucky guy, scoring so much WW
I did 20kg -my first too-a week ago-and can echo your advice -especially on the safety angle
I have been lurking and asking questions of the greybeards and was told-
wood-pine is ideal- is the best flux-helps push back the 'needed stuff' into the smelt, and removes the muck we dont need-like calcium ,etc.
Wax/oil/ tallow -is the sacrificial reductant.
Both are required.
My smelt looked so good, I dipped a ladle into the pot and cast some for fun ;) 28 later, the fun was still unfinished, bright shiny projjies, falling out of the mold easily, and I was well and truly hooked.
Good Luck, and keep on casting

blackthorn
07-11-2013, 12:44 PM
I commend you on a well written post! I see no mention of sorting the weights to separate the stick-on weights from the clip-on weights. Similarily, I see no mention of removing the dreded Zinc weights from the haul prior to melting them down. Zink in the alloy will ruin your day!!!

tyeo098
07-11-2013, 02:22 PM
Stoned tire guys love beer.

When I went to my local tire shop they were really helpful, asked them if they drank beer.
About 3 guys from the back popped into the lobby upon hearing the word. "Uh... heh... yeah"

Stop by every two weeks now with a 6-pack and trade it off for the lead :)

shadygrady
07-11-2013, 03:12 PM
weres all that zinc at

Mk42gunner
07-11-2013, 09:42 PM
Be very careful adding cold wheelweights, and any unmelted wheelweight qualifies as cold, to molten alloy. This is almost an invitation for the tinsel fairy to come visit, and she is even less welcome than most inlaws.

When I add WW to a hot pot, I use a long handled shovel. The theory being that I will be four or five feet from the pot if something bad happens.

To get the initial melt going, I put the lid that came with my Taiwan Dutch oven on top to help trap a little more heat; it works when cooking supper, it works when melting lead.

Robert

Big_Blue
07-11-2013, 11:56 PM
I commend you on a well written post! I see no mention of sorting the weights to separate the stick-on weights from the clip-on weights. Similarily, I see no mention of removing the dreded Zinc weights from the haul prior to melting them down. Zink in the alloy will ruin your day!!!

I smelted everything together and monitored my heat with a thermometer. That kept me from any zinc problems. By not separating my stick ons from my clip ons I probably reduced the hardness a bit. Since I shoot 45 ACP the velocity and pressure is pretty low so I don't expect a problem. I've been thinking about getting a hardness tester to see if I need to stiffen the mix any. I dumped the dirty buckets of oil and grease covered WWs. Cigarette wrappers, valve stems, and lug nuts into the pot and burned off and skimmed off anything that wasn't shinny.

10mmShooter
07-12-2013, 06:33 PM
Nice Job Big Blue,

I like the USAF marksmanship ribbon too :)

jmort
07-12-2013, 06:50 PM
Very nice report and photos. Wish I could get free/cheap COWW here in California. Have one scrap yard that will sell lead ranging from WWs to sinkers to chunks of lead to 25 lb bags of magnum shot (hopefully that will happen again), whatever for $.50 per lb and I am happy to pay that. Get some pine shavings for future smelts - flux with pine shavings and don't just reduce.

Big_Blue
07-13-2013, 10:28 AM
Very nice report and photos. Wish I could get free/cheap COWW here in California. Have one scrap yard that will sell lead ranging from WWs to sinkers to chunks of lead to 25 lb bags of magnum shot (hopefully that will happen again), whatever for $.50 per lb and I am happy to pay that. Get some pine shavings for future smelts - flux don't reduce.
Thanks. What do you mean "flux don't reduce"?

dsbock
07-13-2013, 10:49 AM
You should read the online book From Ingot to Target (http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm) by Glen Fryxell. Specifically the chapter on fluxing (http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_4_Fluxing.htm).

Glen explains everything better that anyone else I've read. At this point I only use sawdust to flux my melts.

Good luck.

David

jmort
07-13-2013, 11:07 AM
"What do you mean "flux don't reduce"?

"I fluxed with candles" - I believe you merely "reduced" as "wax/oil" etc will not "flux" - use pine shavings. What dsbock said. My fragment of a sentence is vague.

Big_Blue
07-15-2013, 12:27 AM
Thanks for the pointer. I had read that book earlier in the year, but only took away the thought that candles were sufficient.

Now upon rereading that chapter I see on page 38 that it explains our goal is to find a mechanism that will do three things: 1) remove undesired materials (contaminants), 2) reduce the amount of existing oxidation in the tin, and 3) prevent oxidation during the molten phase. It also defines "flux" as a mechanism which forces undesired contaminants into a slag which itself can then be scooped off.

It explains "reduction" as reducing the oxidation by replacing lost electrons in the metal. This is desired to keep tin in the mix. If we don't reduce the amount of lost tin, the molten lead will not fill out the molds very well. On the same page it goes on to say that wax (eg. candles) is a good reducer and a good preventer of oxidation. What wax is missing is the ability to remove undesired materials.

On page 39 it goes on to say that pine rosin as a flux works pretty much the same as a wax.

Page 40 summarizes everything pretty nicely. "Sawdust doesn’t really qualify under the formal definition of 'flux' as it doesn’t produce a fusible slag, but it does very cheaply and very effectively accomplish the three primary goals that we set out for cleaning up bullet metal. Reduce, remove and protect, sawdust does it all!"

I take this to mean that with sawdust mixed into the molten alloy reduction occurs like it does with wax, and that with sawdust floating on top of the molten alloy, prevention occurs like it does with wax. The chapter doesn't explain how sawdust removes contaminants, since it states that sawdust isn't a flux.

3 Questions:

1) Since sawdust isn't a flux, it apparently isn't creating a slag of undesired materials, so how do we get the "remove" benefit of sawdust?

2) He explains that a tablespoon of sawdust mixed vigorously into a pot is sufficient to remove impurities and to put tin back into the alloy. He doesn't say how big of a pot he's using. Does anyone know the ratio of sawdust to molten lead? I use a large pot for smelting. Maybe he's referring to the smaller pots used in the casting phase, not the larger pots used in the smelting phase.

3) If we scoop floating sawdust/charcoal off the top of the molten lead hoping to collect slag, we're literally opening a hole in the protective layer and allowing oxidation to occur. How do you scoop the molten lead out from under a layer of "protective" sawdust? Do you use something in your weak hand to open a window in the sawdust while using a dipper in your strong hand to dip out the molten alloy? Do I need a bottom pour smelting pot?

jmort
07-15-2013, 12:32 AM
Here is video of two guys using a much less advance smelting set=up with what they had around the house.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh4mdoR4Tdk

Big_Blue
07-15-2013, 12:37 AM
Be very careful adding cold wheelweights, and any unmelted wheelweight qualifies as cold, to molten alloy. This is almost an invitation for the tinsel fairy to come visit, and she is even less welcome than most inlaws.

My understanding was that the tinsel fairy visit resulted from the sudden expansion of water introduced into the molten lead, not the introduction of cold wheel weights (unless the WWs are wet). The sudden vaporization of the water expands the relatively dense liquid into a gas, splashing molten lead all over everything.


When I add WW to a hot pot, I use a long handled shovel. The theory being that I will be four or five feet from the pot if something bad happens.

Good idea, if only to avoid splashing molten lead outside the pot.


To get the initial melt going, I put the lid that came with my Taiwan Dutch oven on top to help trap a little more heat; it works when cooking supper, it works when melting lead.

I tried that, but my thermometer sticks out of the top of the pot a bit and keeps the lid from sitting flush. Maybe I could use the lid to get the melt started, then add my thermometer and remove the lid after the melt gets going.

Thanks,

jmort
07-15-2013, 01:01 AM
The video link should help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh4mdoR4Tdk

Same as post #18

Big_Blue
07-16-2013, 12:03 AM
The video link should helpLink missing.

jmort
07-16-2013, 12:34 AM
Link is now here and posts #18 and #20

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gh4mdoR4Tdk

45-70 Chevroner
07-16-2013, 01:09 AM
My understanding was that the tinsel fairy visit resulted from the sudden expansion of water introduced into the molten lead, not the introduction of cold wheel weights (unless the WWs are wet). The sudden vaporization of the water expands the relatively dense liquid into a gas, splashing molten lead all over everything.



Good idea, if only to avoid splashing molten lead outside the pot.



I tried that, but my thermometer sticks out of the top of the pot a bit and keeps the lid from sitting flush. Maybe I could use the lid to get the melt started, then add my thermometer and remove the lid after the melt gets going.

Thanks,

I don't use a lid and never have. You are right about the cold lead. I've never had a problem with adding WW to a hot pot of molten lead. Of course I use gloves and all the needed safety equipment. I dump all my ingots on my cement drive way to cool them. I also have a five gallon bucket of water near by too cool the ingot molds. A couple of seconds in the water set it down and by the time a have another laddle of lead ready, the ingot mold is dry. This speeds up the time it takes for the molten lead to solidify in the ingot mold. I have been melting lead and making boolits and ingots since 1971. I have never had a visit from the tinsel fairy.

varmint243
07-16-2013, 11:45 AM
...and at some point it morphs itself into something more like this.
sadly, I don't really enjoy it much.

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