Making a boat anchor

[waksupi]

I believe I will make a new anchor for my boat. I'm thinking on a fluke type. Any comments on size? Anyone made thier own?

[NVcurmudgeon]

Only real anchor I ever owned was a Danforth type steel anchor about 2 1/2 feet from top to bottom. Guess it weighed 20 lbs. or so. Plenty of holding power in San Francisco Bay and the Sacramento Delta for a 22' (about one ton) sailboat. Both areas were entirely mud. Please don't waste holy galena on this project.

[Topper]

Only for a john boat.
Old moon disc hubcap, drill a hole in center for an eye bolt, then filed it with cement.

[garandsrus]

Or a coffee can filled with concrete and an eye bolt....

John

[JeffinNZ]

Pretty much any English built internal combustion engine will do...........[smilie=1:

[floodgate]

Jeff:

NOOOO! The oil leaks really louse up the water and kill all the fish. We called 'em "King George's Revenge" here in the States.

floodgate

[waksupi]

Youse guys is doing absolutely nothing in upgrading my hillbilly redneck status. I figured someone like Buckshot would have used a mill and lathe to make a titanium anchor, and all I hear, is this stuff about drowning Brit motors. Sheesh!

[BD]

Bein' in Montana it seems like a "Maine freshwater fishin' anchor" would be the most appropriate. This consists of the proper sized rock tied to the end of your anchor line with some form of creative basket knot. Then when you can't retrieve it 'cause the current's got it chocked into the bottom, you just set it free. Some form of pulley off the stern of the drift boat is called for. When the "anchor" is hauled it just hangs off the stern with the line in a jam cleat by the rowing seat. To be a true "Maine" anchor, it should be constructed without spending a single penny. If you spend $10 on the pulley and jam cleat, then what you have is a Massachusetts anchor rig and someone will show up shortly to tax and regulate it.
BD

[MT Gianni]

Drift boat, small lake or Flathead sailboat? A concrete disc won't hold on the middle fork in medium water but would work fine on a lot of the small lakes up there. Gianni

[sundog]

BD, as a former but temporary Mainiac, I very enjoyed your explanation of Down East rigging AND politics.

[Maineboy]

BD, I didn't realize EVERYONE in Maine knows how to build and use a proper boat anchor. I thought only us County folks knew the secret. There is a high tech version a few knowledgeable folks know about. It's called a cinder block.


Bein' in Montana it seems like a "Maine freshwater fishin' anchor" would be the most appropriate. This consists of the proper sized rock tied to the end of your anchor line with some form of creative basket knot. Then when you can't retrieve it 'cause the current's got it chocked into the bottom, you just set it free. Some form of pulley off the stern of the drift boat is called for. When the "anchor" is hauled it just hangs off the stern with the line in a jam cleat by the rowing seat. To be a true "Maine" anchor, it should be constructed without spending a single penny. If you spend $10 on the pulley and jam cleat, then what you have is a Massachusetts anchor rig and someone will show up shortly to tax and regulate it.
BD

[EMC45]

Coffee can and concrete is what I was gonna say too. Perfect for a john boat!

[Single Shot]

I believe I will make a new anchor for my boat. I'm thinking on a fluke type. Any comments on size? Anyone made their own?

How about any anti gunner tied to a rope and wearing a cast concrete overcoat?

Actually I did not notice what size boat you have.

A friend of mine made a anchor for his JON boat by sand casting bulk buy aluminum nails. He just made a simple 2 X 4 frame to hold the damp sand on his driveway and then hand carved an anchor shape into it. The eye was a large long shaft eye bolt with a few nuts and washers spaced a few inches apart on it to help grip the aluminum since it would not stick to the steel.

If you carve an eye big enough IMHO you don't need the eye bolt.

He used a old cast large iron pot on a turkey fryer burner to melt the nails. Same burner he uses to melt WW.

Anchor shape similar to this but without the gaps:
4627

[Single Shot]

Youse guys is doing absolutely nothing in upgrading my hillbilly redneck status. I figured someone like Buckshot would have used a mill and lathe to make a titanium anchor, and all I hear, is this stuff about drowning Brit motors. Sheesh!

:redneck:

4635

[Swagerman]

If you fish where there is a mud bottom and moving current, you're going to need an anchor with some flukes...HOOKERS. :mrgreen:

Jim

[Pilgrim]

Ric - I have Danforth, as well as the Navy types, both with flukes. The Danforth holds by the flukes digging in. The "Navy" type has flukes but I believe it holds more by it's weight than the flukes digging in. The Danforth weighs significantly less than the Navy style. For holding the boat stationary, like when bobber fishing for steelhead, I use an bow anchor and then coffee cans filled with chain (for more weight) and concrete at the stern to keep the boat from swinging. These concrete anchors hold OK if there is little current and/or wind, but otherwise aren't of much use if your boat is of any size. The best anchor for a smaller boat would be the Danforth style as it weighs the least. You didn't say what boat style, and/or boat size you have, or what type of water you want to anchor in, so all of the above is just "background". You could go to Cabelas website, or their catalog, and look at the Danforth style anchors and simply use your talents to copy them. Make the anchor as small or large as you need for your boat. The advantage of the commercial units is they are galvanized and help keep the rust down.

However, the best anchor I have, or have seen for holding larger boats in fast water was home made. It consists of a "T" welded together out of 1.5" or 2" steel tube. Mine is made out of 1.5" square tubing. On the ends of the "T" are welded "V's made out of 1/4" x 1.5" flat plate with the ends of the V cut with a slant cut into a point on one edge of the plate. The leg of the "T" and the center of the T have loops welded onto the tubing. Use 1/4" or 3/8" chain fastened to the loop welded to the center of the T loop. Use 6' or more of chain as it causes the anchor rope to pull the anchor in a more horizontal direction which causes the the flukes to dig in more better. The chain is also attached to the loop on the end of the long leg with "tie wraps". This way the pull is on the correct end of the anchor, and if it gets hung up, you can use your boat motor to break the tie wraps and transfer the pull to the middle of the T and thus cause the anchor to release from the bottom. I use this anchor to hold my boat in fast water (22' cuddy cabin) below the dams on the Snake and Columbia rivers where I worry not only about holding power, but anchor hang ups as well. You can get into a world of hurt below these dams if you aren't very careful. Your boat can go to the bottom of the river so fast (a few seconds, almost immediate) if you get the anchor rope around your lower unit and the boat gets turned in the current. You can size this design for whatever size boat/ current you need. If you need a picture of this last unit I'll get the digital camera up to speed and try to post a picture of mine.

FWIW...Pilgrim

[357maximum]

My mud/sand/gravel anchors are pretty high tech but here you go.


-15 inch 1/2 tone standard truck rim (mine were chevy)
-2 foot chunk of heavy chain
-weld one end of chain to bead area/ weld the other end to the other bead area directly across from one another.
-attach a large diameter rope to the middle of the chain, too skinny a rope make hard work of it.

these anchors will allow me to anchor the whole boat cross current in my 18.5 modified vee flatbottom in any of the local rivers and a few of these rivers crank right along.

I have seen some folks not hold with the bow into the current with high dollar crab/fluted/footed anchors, and i will pull up within eyeshot and anchor 90 degrees to the current, you can see the contempt in their eyes for my ugly yet very effective anchors.

**Pulling these anchors up are not for the weak of heart/body/soul though, but they are cheap cheap cheap, and effective**

[waksupi]

I would very much like to see a picture. I'm not clear on the description

"The chain is also attached to the loop on the end of the long leg with "tie wraps". This way the pull is on the correct end of the anchor, and if it gets hung up, you can use your boat motor to break the tie wraps and transfer the pull to the middle of the T and thus cause the anchor to release from the bottom."

A picture is worth a thousand words. Boat is a 16', mostly for Flathad Lake use, so strong winds are a consideration, along with some goodly curents at the river mouth.

Thanks!


Ric - I have Danforth, as well as the Navy types, both with flukes. The Danforth holds by the flukes digging in. The "Navy" type has flukes but I believe it holds more by it's weight than the flukes digging in. The Danforth weighs significantly less than the Navy style. For holding the boat stationary, like when bobber fishing for steelhead, I use an bow anchor and then coffee cans filled with chain (for more weight) and concrete at the stern to keep the boat from swinging. These concrete anchors hold OK if there is little current and/or wind, but otherwise aren't of much use if your boat is of any size. The best anchor for a smaller boat would be the Danforth style as it weighs the least. You didn't say what boat style, and/or boat size you have, or what type of water you want to anchor in, so all of the above is just "background". You could go to Cabelas website, or their catalog, and look at the Danforth style anchors and simply use your talents to copy them. Make the anchor as small or large as you need for your boat. The advantage of the commercial units is they are galvanized and help keep the rust down.

However, the best anchor I have, or have seen for holding larger boats in fast water was home made. It consists of a "T" welded together out of 1.5" or 2" steel tube. Mine is made out of 1.5" square tubing. On the ends of the "T" are welded "V's made out of 1/4" x 1.5" flat plate with the ends of the V cut with a slant cut into a point on one edge of the plate. The leg of the "T" and the center of the T have loops welded onto the tubing. Use 1/4" or 3/8" chain fastened to the loop welded to the center of the T loop. Use 6' or more of chain as it causes the anchor rope to pull the anchor in a more horizontal direction which causes the the flukes to dig in more better. The chain is also attached to the loop on the end of the long leg with "tie wraps". This way the pull is on the correct end of the anchor, and if it gets hung up, you can use your boat motor to break the tie wraps and transfer the pull to the middle of the T and thus cause the anchor to release from the bottom. I use this anchor to hold my boat in fast water (22' cuddy cabin) below the dams on the Snake and Columbia rivers where I worry not only about holding power, but anchor hang ups as well. You can get into a world of hurt below these dams if you aren't very careful. Your boat can go to the bottom of the river so fast (a few seconds, almost immediate) if you get the anchor rope around your lower unit and the boat gets turned in the current. You can size this design for whatever size boat/ current you need. If you need a picture of this last unit I'll get the digital camera up to speed and try to post a picture of mine.

FWIW...Pilgrim

[Pilgrim]

I used a piece of bailing twine to represent the tie wraps, but you'll get the idea.

Pilgrim

[Pilgrim]

Guess I'm not too good at these pictures re:Cast Boolits. I attached them to an e-mail to you. If THAT doesn't work, let me know and I'll start over and get the pictures in a different file that perhaps Cast Boolits will recognize 'em. Pilgrim

[LarryM]

Handful( at least 4) of cast iron window weights bailing wired together

[krag35]

These are real common and useful up here

http://www.ifish.net/gallery/data/500/medium/DSC03957.JPG

I think this is the type pilgrim is referring to. I bulid my own, but they are similar.

[Russell James]

44 gallon drum half full of concrete , the rest supplemented with youre favourite politician.

[nelsonted1]

how about filling an engine head cover with.........wheel wieghts!

[waksupi]

Got one built, per Pilgrim. Thanks Duane.

Next problem, I got another boat this last weekend, of larger size, so may need to make another! Think I'll keep the small boat, too, for the smaller lakes around here.

[Pilgrim]

My pleasure, Ric. Anytime I can help, I'll do 'er. Pilgrim