Freezer paper.

[softpoint]

I usually use tracing paper, if the boolit doesn't need to be increased in diameter much. Two of my favorite paper patch boolits for my .45/70's are the 340 gr. and 405gr. Lee bullets. They cast a bit small as it is, and with 2 wraps of tracing paper and a trip through a .460 sizer, they both work great. But patching up a .45 pistol boolit takes a thicker paper. I noticed a roll of freezer wrap paper in the house the other day. It is slicker on one side than the other, but is incredibly tough. One problem I can foresee is getting the second wrap to bond to the first, with one side being smooth and kind of water resistant. But, maybe the old trick of putting a bit of egg white in water, or a few drops of water soluble white glue in water might fix that. The printer papers and others are certainly good enough, but as I say, this stuff is really tough. Has anyone experimented with this stuff? [smilie=6:

[dnepr]

Interesting idea especially since people who hunt and butcher their own animals probably have a roll of this stuff around already definitely worth investigating

[Cmasailor]

Not I, generally speaking, shiny paper has more clay in it and if I remember right, the PaperPatch book suggests against hi clay content, but I forget why. good luck, if it works, post how and why, we'd all enjoy the read :) hell, we'd enjoy hearing and learning if it doesn't too

[Any Cal.]

I believe the shiny side is plastic, which is what worries me a bit. It may be fine though.

[softpoint]

According to the box, yes the shiny side is plastic. But you could wrap with that side in or out. I wrapped a boolit early this morning, let it dry several hours. It looks like the only problem will be getting the shiny side to stick to itself It is really slick. The upside is this stuff is TOUGH. And, even with the slick side out, it may be fine. Sabots are plastic. and whatever the slick is, it is really thin. I am going to mike the stuff later today to see how thick it is.

[Cmasailor]

I hope it's not too tough, it's supposed to be confetti ;-)

[yeahbub]

I got a sample once and never tried it. The plastic will either be inside or out and presents problems either way. That plastic is fairly glue-proof as well.

On a happier note, I recently tried plain white butcher paper, .004 thick, which added .015-.016 to the diameter. Once dry, it has a slightly fuzzy/porous texture and hangs on to LLA very well. That added thickness brings the nose portion of bore-rider designs up to a sizable diameter, extending the full diameter length and improving alignment in the generous military throats when loaded one caliber deep in the case neck, or a bit more, depending on the throat. There have been a few throats which, with thinner papers, required extending them out to the point where the seating depth seemed marginal. (I've long since dispensed with gas checks.) Another good point to the extra thickness is that, on a spitzer design, it extends bearing length and shortens the unsupported ogive when sized, thus improving the ogive's resistance to sagging off-center on firing. It's wet strength isn't as tough as 100% cotton vellum, but better than some wood pulp papers I've used. It's pretty easy to work with.

It's my understanding that, being a paper intended for contact with food, there are no clay or titanium oxide additives or other compounds necessary to make it printer-friendly. Just plain paper. Another I'd like to try sometime is coffee filter paper - excellent wet strength and long fiber, no additives. Haven't found any on a roll, though. Seems cumbersome to cut up actual filters. Has anyone tried it?

[softpoint]

The slick side is very slick, and that could very well be a problem. one paper I have used that is between tracing paper and printer or notebook paper in thickness is parchment paper. It is much like tracing paper but a bit thicker. I've thought of cigarette paper too for those applications that can use a thin paper. As a side note, the parchment paper is made for food contact too, so that may determine some of it's contents. What would be close in composition to the paper our money is printed on? I know you cannot get the actual paper, but there ought to be something close.

[Goatwhiskers]

Shoot, softpoint, not to make this political but since we're all so prosperous under the current administration, why not just wrap a dollar bill around your boolit and shoot it! GW

[softpoint]

Shoot, softpoint, not to make this political but since we're all so prosperous under the current administration, why not just wrap a dollar bill around your boolit and shoot it! GW

Paper patching bullets may be the only thing our dollars will be good for before long.

[yeahbub]

The closest thing to bank note paper (dollar bills) that's readily available is 100% cotton drafting vellum. Art stores have it in sheets of various sizes, but the big one is an "E" size and is a dollar or two. It can be found online by the roll, which makes a bozillion patches. One characteristic about drafting vellum is that the patches are the most stretchable when cut from the end of the E-size sheet or the end of the roll, not the log side, due to the way the paper is stretched when made. They can be stretched on with considerable force compared to wood pulp papers, and shrink on very nicely as they dry.

As for using dollar bills, they may take a dim view of using your Federal Reserve Stock Certificates in a manner which reflects their actual value. I hear you can go to a Federal Reserve bank and get bags of "fed shred" (shredded dollar bills) and use it to blender up your own paper, but that seems like a lot of trouble.

[303Guy]

You folks mention tracing paper as being so thin - the tracing paper I have is as thick as printer paper and is a solid. It's made by dissolving the cellulose fibres in acid and that's what makes the paper translucent and solid. It's pretty tough stuff too. I do know of the thin and light tracing paper from school days but haven't seen it for a long time.

[303Guy]

I've just discovered some of this freezer paper in the kitchen! At least it fits the description. It's completely waterproof but very thin and pretty tough. I'm thinking that forget it bonding to itself in any way. Instead, dry wrap it and immediately seat it. Getting it to grip the boolit during launch could be a challenge though. Twist turn it two fingers of both hands to get it to take the shape of the grooves. Dipping it in hot water may get the wax or whatever to dislodge may work.

[softpoint]

My Mitutoyo digital says that my freezer paper is .00360, my old favorite, tracing paper is.00165, parchment paper,which is virtually identical to tracing paper is .00200, and brown coffee filter paper is .00520. Now, I patched 2 ,.454 boolits with 2 wraps of brown coffee filter paper, wet, twisted tight, and let dry, they now measure .46550, so they will size nicely to .462. The coffee filter paper is the strongest of the lot, wet. And it soaks through immediately. it is more porous than the others, and would hold some liquid lube nicely. The freezer paper is the next strongest,with the opposite characteristic of the coffee filter paper, in that it doesn't soak through. The parchment and tracing paper are almost alike, with the slight difference in thickness. Since the parchment paper is food grade, maybe it has no clay, either? I'll stay with tracing paper when patching up .457 boolits, but those .454 boolits in a 45/70 Marlin will get tried with the coffee filter paper.

[303Guy]

What I've got measures 0.00169 on my Mitutoyo so it's not the same as your freezer paper. It is pretty slick.

[softpoint]

What I've got measures 0.00169 on my Mitutoyo so it's not the same as your freezer paper. It is pretty slick.

Wow, thats no thicker than my tracing paper.!?

[Nrut]

You said in your OP that you have the freezer paper..
Give it a try..

[softpoint]

Ok, the boolits I had wrapped with the freezer paper dried, and I clipped the tails. Tried to size them ,and the paper just won't stay on them Iwrapped both with the slick side next to the boolit, and with it out. Potentially good paper, if it just could be made to bond. Imay try some mild adhesive before I give up.