Lee Buldge buster and factory crimp die or Redding G-RX Base Sizing Die Kit 40 S&W

[Jim..47]

I am trying to figure out what my Glock 22 Gen 4 needs to cycle the boolits reliable. So my question is stated above. Which one is better.

If you have first hand experience please tell me which one is better, and do not take price into the equation. I really want the best.

My experience with Lee dies is not a good one, but I don't look at that either. Nor do I look at the added benefit of having the Lee factory crimp die.

These are either either Lee 175 gn truncated or Lyman 175 Gn truncated. (I am still waiting on the mold handles for the 4 cavity Lyman mold. The Lee mold is a 6 banger.

Edit: I forgot to mention that if I shorten the OAL to 1.072 instead of the recommended 1.125 they seem to cycle Ok, but I'm not taking any chances, besides this system will help me resize brass instead of having to throw away many of them.

[Jim..47]

Also, between the Lee mold and my Lyman lubrisizer the bullets come out at right at .401. Is that a problem?

[Cane_man]

i own both... the Redding G-RX is the better made, easier to use, tool, imo... if you can afford it get the carbide version of the G-RX, and get the the soda bottle adapter that fits on the top which allows you attach a 2L or 16 oz plastic bottle on top to catch all the cases...

as far as the .401 boolit goes, you need to slug your barrel to see if the boolit is larger than the slugged bore...

[mdi]

FWIW, I have no use for the Lee FCD. In my semi-autos, when my dies are adjusted correctly, the FCD does nothing. As for the "40 cal. bulge" I have no experience. I would recommend using the "plunk test" for determining OAL for your specific gun.

[Bwana]

I am trying to figure out what my Glock 22 Gen 4 needs to cycle the boolits reliable. So my question is stated above. Which one is better.
If you have first hand experience please tell me which one is better, and do not take price into the equation. I really want the best.
My experience with Lee dies is not a good one, but I don't look at that either. Nor do I look at the added benefit of having the Lee factory crimp die.
These are either either Lee 175 gn truncated or Lyman 175 Gn truncated. (I am still waiting on the mold handles for the 4 cavity Lyman mold. The Lee mold is a 6 banger.
Edit: I forgot to mention that if I shorten the OAL to 1.072 instead of the recommended 1.125 they seem to cycle Ok, but I'm not taking any chances, besides this system will help me resize brass instead of having to throw away many of them.

You don't say what your problem is exactly. Be that as it may, I load that boolit to 1.10" loa and have run many thousands through my G23 without a problem. Perhaps you could describe the "malfunction" in greater detail.

[AggieEE]

Also FWIW, my experance with .40cal Glocks is the base buldge will result in a failure to go into battery, and knock on wood I've never had one but in theory it could be out of battery and still fire. If you have a failure to feed you're looking at a different problem than just the buldge. For the record, Lee buldge buster and 175gr truncated cone standard lube groove @ .401 dia. my glock 22 runs like a top with these. Like Bawana more info would be helpful. Good Luck.
AggieEE

[Jim..47]

You don't say what your problem is exactly. Be that as it may, I load that boolit to 1.10" loa and have run many thousands through my G23 without a problem. Perhaps you could describe the "malfunction" in greater detail.

I guess thats a fair question. [smilie=b: Before I shortened the length I couldn't get any of them to cycle. Besides that they all have a giant size bulge. And some of them ( range pick ups) have Glock bulge before I touch them.

[Jim..47]

You don't say what your problem is exactly. Be that as it may, I load that boolit to 1.10" loa and have run many thousands through my G23 without a problem. Perhaps you could describe the "malfunction" in greater detail.

Did my last post give you the info you needed?

[Ed_Shot]

I use only range pick-up brass for my Glock 22 with Lone Wolf barrel. I size/deprime and clean my .40 SW brass and then check each piece in a chamber gauge (my barrel). I perhaps have a 2% reject rate, certainly not enough to fret about with "free" brass. Thought about getting a bulge buster but decided I didn't want to try to reuse brass that had been glocked so bad it wouldn't fit my chamber. I've seen some scary looking bulged brass.

My G22 loves Lee 401-175-TC (standard lube). I'm away from my Lyman 4th Ed. right now but believe it lists a COAL for the Lyman 175 gr TC (401637) at 1.100. Since the Lee 401-175-TC is .02 longer than the Lyman 401637 I load my Lee 401-175-TC to a COAL of 1.110. I did have feeding problems at first till I figured out that I had to crimp to .422. I do use the Lee FDC. What is your crimp dimention?

Just got the Lyman 401654 150 gr TC within the last month and it's a great shooter also.

What barrel are you using?

[nicholst55]

Supposedly Glock tightened up their chamber dimensions for the .40 S&W a few years ago, and all their barrels made since then give much better support to the case. This really minimizes the Glock bulge. I have a Gen 4 G22, and it doesn't bulge the brass. Of course if you're loading range brass, you have no control over what it was last fired in. If I'm really worried about it, I'll probably buy the Redding G-RX die. Then again, if my reject rate is no higher than what Ed Shot is experiencing, I probably won't worry about it.

[dakotashooter2]

I have the redding and it really made a difference. Of course a lot of my brass was coming from law enforcement because I work with them. Mine would feed OK (Beretta 96) but some took a bump on the slide to fully chamber. I don't have that issue now. Doesn't the Lee require the purchase of an FCD die too?

Lee has some good products but every rifle die I have bought from them has been oversized. It's not a tight chamber issue because generally the brass won't or is a very snug fit in any of the 2-3 guns I have in that caliber.

[W.R.Buchanan]

The Lee FCD is used with the taper crimper removed. The Bulge Buster Kit comes with a pusher, and a bottle adapter that screws into the FCD in place of the crimper to prevent cases from hanging up in the die.

The die itself is $10-12. The kit is another $25ish. The cheap Redding NON Carbide die is $35+ and the Carbide Redding die is $65. Both the Redding dies are way over priced IMHO!

All either one does is squish the bulge near the base of the case back into place. However this is a necessary operation of case preperation for the safe reloading of this caliber. Cases are pushed all the way thru the die to remove the bulge and make the case cylindrical again. Then reloaded in the normal fashion. The debulging operation does not replace the normal full length sizing operation. It is only a case preperation operation.

Do yourself a favor and do not hot rod this round!

Midrange loads are the name of the game with the .40 S&W and especially in a Glock. If you really feel you need hot loads for something, then buy factory hot loads.

This is not a cartridge to fiddle around with. It is one of the most critical ones out there. All you have to do to stay out of trouble is pay attention and stay conservative on your loads.

IF you decide to run cast in the stock barrel keep an eye on it for leading, like after every magazine to start. You'll know quickly if this is a problem.

Hope this helps

Randy

[Jim..47]

The Lee FCD is used with the taper crimper removed. The Bulge Buster Kit comes with a pusher, and a bottle adapter that screws into the FCD in place of the crimper to prevent cases from hanging up in the die.

The die itself is $10-12. The kit is another $25ish. The cheap Redding NON Carbide die is $35+ and the Carbide Redding die is $65. Both the Redding dies are way over priced IMHO!

All either one does is squish the bulge near the base of the case back into place. However this is a necessary operation of case preperation for the safe reloading of this caliber. Cases are pushed all the way thru the die to remove the bulge and make the case cylindrical again. Then reloaded in the normal fashion. The debulging operation does not replace the normal full length sizing operation. It is only a case preperation operation.

Do yourself a favor and do not hot rod this round!

Midrange loads are the name of the game with the .40 S&W and especially in a Glock. If you really feel you need hot loads for something, then buy factory hot loads.

This is not a cartridge to fiddle around with. It is one of the most critical ones out there. All you have to do to stay out of trouble is pay attention and stay conservative on your loads.

IF you decide to run cast in the stock barrel keep an eye on it for leading, like after every magazine to start. You'll know quickly if this is a problem.

Hope this helps

Randy


I forgot to mention I bought the Storm Lake barrel for this gun. I just don't take any chances, and thats why I want to add the extra step to make my brass perfectly functional every time I pull the trigger. I won't be buying much J-bullets for it.

Can I assume from your write up that I am better going the Lee route for this, as its carbide and lasts longer? If so thats why I asked these questions in the first place.

As far as my load, I'm using 5.3 grains of Bullseye and from the charts I've read this should be safe and functional. Am I right?

Also I forgot to thank everyone for their contribution here. I'm not a new comer to casting or loading but I try to get it right the first time.

[W.R.Buchanan]

That load should be fine however you'd be better off with W231 for that cartridge just because BE is kind of dirty. I run 5.4 gr of W231 with a 165 gr plated boolit.

Bullseye is a little hotter powder, but I think you are still safe. Just make sure your PM is not fooling you and varying charges. Bullseye is not a powder you want to overcharge with. Just pay attention and check your powder drops every few rounds, and then less frequently. Always check your powder drop at the end of any loading session. If it comes up heavy it's time to start pulling boolits.

Do expect malfunctions with the SL barrel for a while until it gets worn in. The chambers are tighter on a SL barrel than stock barrels, as a result there will be times when things don't line up. Tap rack flip!

As far as the die goes it is because the product that Redding is offering is way over priced for what you get. Their base $35 die requires lubricant since it doesn't have a carbide ring, and their $65 carbide die is rediculously overpriced.

There is no difference in the way the two carbide dies work, the Lee die is just a cheaper way to go that gets you there. The carbide is no different as far as wear goes. I have shoved 10K + thru mine and there is no noticable wear. If it wears out it is $10-12 for another one.

Do clean your brass first.

Randy

[RobS]

Lee die on this end........works as advertised with no problems and I never considered the Redding die due to the price.

[gunoil]

put your sizer die in the laithe and take (bottom) some off, then it will linda lovelace rite down low on the brass. Then do what buchannan said. If you dont understand machine shop then forget this post. Ya gotta have precision machine shop to make some equipment work. (example) i take lee exp die and take bell out and put step in. RCBS & DILLON HAVE STEPS. Why?, because i have a mrbulletfeeder.biz boolit drop die. I run rcbs exp die in station 2 of LLM and [machine lee powder/expander die flat in sta.3, cut the nipple off.] All powder hopper does is drop powder only on my llm.

[Lloyd Smale]

ive got the redding but wish i would have sprung a few more bucks for the carbide version. This one works but its much easier with lube and that means tumbling afterward. It will work without lube but takes some efford on some cases

[garym1a2]

I put over 15 months of match shootin thru mine. G22, storm lake, the budge buster does work. But if you get a case very hard to push or over budged trash it. I only use 4.2 gr of Bullseye or 3.7 gr of WSt for my minor loads with the lee 175 TC. No need for the abuse, as these are real soft loads. If you want major loads switch to a slower powder like WSF, Universal or Unique. They get the velocity with out the pressure. With Bullseye you get high pressure with low velocity once you try to push it.
My Glock 22 also has a Storm lake 9mm conversion barrel and it works very well, no need for a budge buster in 9mm. Just a charge of WSF and great results, or 3.8gr of bullseye and a great plinker.

[dakotashooter2]

I don't lube every case I put through the die. I probably lube every tenth case. That seems to keep the die lubed enough to process with little trouble.

[Jim..47]

I can't tell you guys how much I appreciate your help. You are the best!!!!!!!!

I now feel good about proceeding with my boolits. I think I will book mark this thread, that way if anyone new comes around with my questions I can shoot this thread out to them. Thanks a bunch, and I'm sure I will have more questions, plus, when I get these bullets already to shoot and feel comfortable with my new Glock I will post some pics. :D

[ku4hx]

I use a Lee carbide sizing die and a Lee taper crimp die. As long as my neck diameter and cartridge OAL is such that a loaded round (or dummy) doesn't stick in the chamber, mine have fed flawlessly in my BHP, wife's two Ruger SR 9mm guns, and my Glocks. I have several Lone Wolf barrels and I use them as my "go/no go" gauges. The Lone Wolf chambers are a mite smaller and if the test round drops "ka-plunk" into the chamber and then falls freely out, it'll do so in the OEM barrels as well.

[Jim..47]

I use a Lee carbide sizing die and a Lee taper crimp die. As long as my neck diameter and cartridge OAL is such that a loaded round (or dummy) doesn't stick in the chamber, mine have fed flawlessly in my BHP, wife's two Ruger SR 9mm guns, and my Glocks. I have several Lone Wolf barrels and I use them as my "go/no go" gauges. The Lone Wolf chambers are a mite smaller and if the test round drops "ka-plunk" into the chamber and then falls freely out, it'll do so in the OEM barrels as well.


Thats a very good and simple test.

Now for my next question: How do you guys feel about the Lee bullet sizer and alox lube kit?

The reason I ask is I like bullet sizing and lubing out of Lyman 450 lubersizer as much as I like shooting myself in the foot. In fact putting it to the test of dislikes the latter would win.

I have the Lee bullet sizer's for 3/4s of my guns, BUT, I gave up using them because I did not like the alox. Now after sizing and lubing thousands of bullets the alox it is looking pretty delightful.
What say Ye?

[Cane_man]

^^^ the answer is 45/45/10

[clum553946]

I have the Redding carbide base sizer kit. It's very easy to work with & you can run through the cases quickly. The die & push through punch are very well made & to me worth the extra money it costs. I figure when you amortize how many cases you will re size & the amount of years you will own it, the difference isn't that bad. You just have to use it!

[flashhole]

I have the entire Lee set-up for 40 S&W and highly recommend it.

Lee Bulge Buster for the brass, every piece goes through this die.

I cast 175 grain truncated cone bullets with the Lee 6-cavity mold and run them through the Lee Bullet Sizing Die.

Bullets are cast using the Lee Pro 4-20 bottom pour casting pot.

I tumble lube the bullets with Lee Liquid Alox.

I trim brass one time using the Lee Case Length Gage and Ball Handle Lee Cutter with the Lee 3-Jaw Chuck in my cordless drill.

I use the Lee Classic Cast Turret press with Lee Deluxe Pistol Dies including the Lee Taper Crimp Die, love the Lee Powder Through Expander Die that I outfit with the Lee Funnel and I use Lee Dipper Cups to charge the case.

Lee shell holder.

Lee Reloading Manual for load data.

Just ordered a Lee Powder Drum to use with the system. The Powder Drum requires the Lee Charging Die (also ordered).

The only things I use that are not Lee are the case deburring tool and primer pocket uniformer, EJS for those.

My experience: I initially had feed problems in my Taurus Millenium Special Edition using the recommended COL until I seated the shoulder of the bullet flush with or just below the case rim. I think the protruding shoulder was creating a false rim and causing a jam in my pistol.

All-around great system and easy to use.

[gloob]

My G27 barrel is tight at the case mouth. So tight that some cases are too thick and cause fouling. Just an FYI to keep a look out.

Now that I know this and I sort my brass, I can shoot cast and jacketed bullets much more accurately. Before, this gun was my least accurate shooter. I bought a 9mm conversion barrel, and it was even less accurate. I figured it was because of the short sight radius. Now I finally get it when I read about how other people use their G26/27 for shooting competitions and whatnot.

Glock barrels rock when you feed them good ammo.

[Fulmaduro]

Older thread but just my findings late 2016. Just bought from Amazon: Lee Bulge Buster Kit $17.99 + Lee Factory Crimp Die $19.99

According to Lee the Bulge Buster Kit works with these rimless cases: 380 ACP, 10mm, 40 S&W, 41 AE, 45 ACP, 45 GAP, and 45 Win Mag. (9mm cases are not able to be used in the Bulge Buster because it has a slightly tapered case and the rim is not completely flush with the case.

The Redding GR-X carbide die runs from $73.95 (Gunstop Reloading Supplies) - $93.95 (Amazon), not including the bottle adapter ($7.95) for catching the cases as they exit the die.

My belief was that the dies were designed to remove the bulges left behind from unsupported chambers such as my Colt Delta Elite 10mm (Glock also), which does indeed produce bulges in my brass with hot loads when I fire them.

Not sure if Lee is just trying to avoid liability in case something might occur firing previously bulged cases after "bulge busting" them and reloading, but their disclaimer that came with the die set:

"Glock Cases: We do not recommend "fixing" cases fired in pistols with unsupported chambers, because there is no way to make them safe once they have bulged. The case wall is thinned where it bulges, and resizing the outside of the case back down to the correct diameter does not restore the case back to its original thickness. If this case is fired in a pistol with an unsupported chamber again, and this thinned section of brass happens to line up with the unsupported part of the chamber, there is a high probability that the case will rupture."

Either way I could not see paying over twice as much as the Lee cost for the same result. I intend to use them to remove bulges from my brass from the unsupported chamber. Mine are not severe, pretty slight actually. But well see how they work. Just my 2 cents.

[cmk]

Reviving an older thread. Does anybody who owns either the Lee or Redding bulge fixer kit tell me the dimensions of the case (at its widest) after being run through the tool.

I'm investigating if it could be used for sizing plinking bullets for the 404 Jeffery. My bore is slugged at .424 and one idea I have is if it is possible to use .40s&w or 10mm auto cases as jackets. Thus the need for a tool to ensure proper dimensions.

Thanks in advance.