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missionary5155
03-24-2013, 06:08 PM
Good afternoon
Looking for a plan that shows the parts and assembly of a matchlock that uses the bar type lever. I have two plans for the trigger type but am more interested in the bar below the stock type.
So if you have one or know where I can find one on this "Puter" let me know.
Thanks ! Mike in Peru

drhall762
03-24-2013, 06:31 PM
See if this helps.

65262

missionary5155
03-24-2013, 06:56 PM
Thanks Dave.. That is the model type. Any idea what dimensions or measurements are involved ?

drhall762
03-24-2013, 07:45 PM
None, but you can scale it from the drawing and make it fit your application. It's basically squeeze the lever body pulls down on the link and the match follows. Actually I believe they called the match a serpentine. This was one step up from the tannenbaum.

I'll Make Mine
03-24-2013, 10:22 PM
Actually I believe they called the match a serpentine.

The match is a match. The serpentine is the "serpent" shaped piece that carries the match in the simplest of matchlocks -- it's just a curved bar; one end is the trigger, the other has the clamp for the match cord. The locks above are a little more complex, with either a linkage or a sear to make the serpentine (now applied to just the match holder) move faster. The last generation included a second linkage to automatically raise the pan cover just before the serpentine fell; they were like a miquelet flintlock without the flint.

missionary5155
03-25-2013, 08:39 AM
Good morning
Thank you Dave and I'll Make Mine for the help.
Searching about found a very interesting site of many well photographed origonal matchlock locks.
www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7524 click on the second entry. This is the thread of a personal collection in Europe. Front and rear views with very good details.
Mike in Peru

missionary5155
03-25-2013, 09:18 AM
Greetings
The lock on the bottom showing inside view. This is the one I plane to build. Looks to me like an average working mans tool.
65311
This is from the Vikingsword list about page 12. The origonal photo shows this bottom viewed lock ( the one of interest to me ) about 10 inches long.
Mike in Peru

Nobade
03-25-2013, 09:32 AM
No steenkin' primer shortage is going to bother you! That would be a neat project BTW. Especially if you can successfully use it for hunting.

-Nobade

missionary5155
03-25-2013, 10:33 AM
Greetings Nobade
Primeraly I hunt with a flinter up north there but have always wanted a matchlock. Looked at kits and that is an impossibility down here. So I will get to scratch build a wall hanger of sorts which I really do not mind. Once I have the lock perfected I can bring it north with me to place on a real barrel of hunting quality.
Where I hunt... well it is river bottoms and the last two recurve shots I took this past fall were at 8 and 11 yards. Had numerous does stand at my tree base chomping and browsing. Dropped an arrow onto a young one to get it moving along so I could climb down.
Mike in Peru

I'll Make Mine
03-25-2013, 03:59 PM
I saw a formula for making leaded match (burns more consistent and stays lit better) a while back on a web site about cannon lock "handgonnes".

http://www.ivanhenry.com/extras/making_slowmatch_matchcord.html
http://www.musketeer.ch/blackpowder/lunte.html

Good information on "bucking" your match, too (bucking is needed even if you won't be leading your match).

missionary5155
03-25-2013, 05:55 PM
Thanks again Ill Make Mine. Was wondering some about making a slow match down here. Things need be somewhat discreet. Just cannot go about buying chemicals without alot of questions and permits. But 3F is easy as is cotton rope with will sufice for a few simple tests.
Mike in Peru

I'll Make Mine
03-27-2013, 05:54 PM
Yep, cotton clothesline, a pot to buck in, and some black powder (plus the usual lock, stock, and barrel, of course), and you're ready to go. You can make lead acetate pretty easily, too -- all you need is acetic acid (photographic stop bath concentrate should work, it's extremely strong acetic acid with an indicator dye that will do nothing to the lead reaction -- handle with care, that stuff will clear your sinuses PDQ! -- but vinegar from the grocery can be pressed into service at need) and some lead (if you don't have lead, you've got nothing to shoot from your matchlock anyway).