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Whiterabbit
03-21-2013, 04:51 PM
hi guys,

I found my killer deal for steel for swinger targets. I have a bunch of 8x8 3/8" plates that I got for a steal, the only compromise is they are mild steel.

I'm not gonna be shooting these with 338 lapua. But I'm wondering about alternatives for strengthening. So I can shoot them with more than just 357 and 45 colt.

I could take a couple and solder them together. Try to get an even wetting of solder on each plate, then fuse together. Then weld the outside. That gives me a .75" thick plate.

OR, (or in addition to) I could take a plate and case harden the front side with the brownells casenite. Just set on turkey fryer and let sit for a good long time for reasonable penetration. No worries about water quenching (maybe even brine quench).

My question is, any of you guys tried it? Notice a difference? I may just be shooting lead at these guys but it would be nice to shoot jacketed at longer distances without worrying about dents. I'd love to have an 8x8 300 yard practice plate for rifle practice. Ideally I just want to leave pock marks, .22 style. Used to have an aluminum plate that would only pock with 22's.

or is it a waste of time and gas/weldrod

jmorris
03-21-2013, 11:05 PM
3/8" mild steel is fine for non magnum pistol rounds. The face is too soft for much else. Once you don't have a flat surface it will start sending frags anywhere.

Whiterabbit
03-21-2013, 11:48 PM
so, you think doubling the thickness or case hardening will do nothing?

btroj
03-22-2013, 08:04 AM
Doubling it will resist penetration but will not reduce surface cratering. I doubt case hardening will have much effect in cratering reduction.

Bren R.
03-22-2013, 11:49 AM
I doubt case hardening will have much effect in cratering reduction.
I would think case hardening is just too thin... like having a skin on your pudding - if you poke your finger into it, it'll still deform.

For 3/8" mild steel, I'd stick to target loads, lead bullets only, and take a page from the Cowboy Action Shooters and put a good 15 degree downward angle on them.

Try a couple of shots and look for cratering. Stop if there is any. Seriously. I got back a whole 148 grain .38 bullet in the thigh when Range Officering. That ranked right up there with saying "I do" on the pain scale. :p

Bren R.

Whiterabbit
03-22-2013, 12:02 PM
how far away were you? these arent gonna be closer than 100 yards. And then, only for reduced rifle loads or BFR loads, both slower than 1400 fps using lead-tin or ww. I might try them at 300 yards with copper solids from a 7x57. I know for a fact if I shoot them at 700 yards with the lapua the bullet will zip right through, so its not for shooting with that at any range.

with that plan, you still see a possible ricochet danger? 100 yards and bhn12 lead?

Love Life
03-22-2013, 12:19 PM
3/8" mild steel is fine for non magnum pistol rounds. The face is too soft for much else. Once you don't have a flat surface it will start sending frags anywhere.

Meet Ivan the Russian invader (Same target just repainted from red to white on two different trips). He is/was 3/8 mild steel. As you can see he is a very holy target now. This was done with a 308 Winchester at 400 yds using a 175 gr SMK over a max dose of BLC-2.

I have another one that was bowed in the center from a 9mm at 15-20 yds shooting 115 gr RN boolits over a max dose of HP-38

The yellow/white target is Mr. Mujahedeen. He is AR-500 steel from Arntzen targets. He laughs at the 308 and 300 Winmag at 300 yds and beyond. He was not cheap, but he will last for life.

Just some comparisons for you with real world results.

SOFMatchstaff
03-22-2013, 12:21 PM
Pretty much a waste of time and not practical, ie; soldering and casenit. Edge welding will not hold up, impact will crack the welds in short order, tried it once, waste of rod. The mild steel will do fine for most pistol rounds, but will suffer serious cratering with any high velocity impacts, craters WILL pitch angry Bees back at you from considerable distances.

I assume the 8x8 is inches, that size will make great spinners if the axle and balance is set up right. I have fabricated many types of reactive targets for competition, mostly one shot styles not really suitable for extended practice/plinking, but the wear and breakage is similar. Its amazing what 9mm and buckshot does to mild steel at 15yards. Do yourself a favor and concentrate on the target support/base and consider the impact plates as expendable.... If I could do pictures, I would show you a plate that you could use for a punch bowl that came off of a popper used in shotgun matches, literally bent around the support rod.

I also have armour plate rifle targets that have survived almost 30 years of matches, practice and dinking around with almost NO damage(one A...Hole with a 7mm mag did manage to hole one) to the surface. Edges are another matter, the cutting softens the heat treat and leaves the edge annealed. I'd say the armour is more cost effective over the life span than any other steel, other than your free stuff, free is always good....

john hayslip
03-22-2013, 12:30 PM
Saw an article once where the writer had made a target stand and between it and the plate had put a spring similar to a motorcycle spring. He said it absorbed the recoil and rifle bullets fell as dust at the bottom. Intended to try it but I don't weld (took a course and to see the puddle I had to use a #7 lens and had headaches after an hour - you can learn negative things when you take a course). Can't see where it would do any better than a swinging target though.

Whiterabbit
03-22-2013, 12:32 PM
im gonna use string. After reading what folks do for chain, bars, rebar, eye loops, etc etc etc, rope is cheap and effective.

Will weld some hooks or loops or bolts or nuts or whatever I find laying around on the back, then hang via rope. That will angle the plate a smidge downward, and rope can be easily repaired.

jmorris
03-22-2013, 03:38 PM
If you are at distance the risk to getting fragged is greatly reduced. I have thick mild steel targets on my own range at 300 yds and have never had anything make it back to the shooting bench.

Bren R.
03-22-2013, 05:27 PM
how far away were you? these arent gonna be closer than 100 yards.

I was about 10 yards away. I would still put a goodly angle on them.

Bren R.

wv109323
03-23-2013, 04:29 PM
The silhouette targets for hunters pistol are made of 3/8" mild steel. The minimum distance they are shot at is 40 yards to avoid back splatter. Originally the closest targets were 25 yards but problems occurred with splatter.
The heavy magnum pistol calibers in Thompson Contenders will cause target damage. .357 Mag., .44 Mag and .41 Mag. These will not penetrate but will bend the steel. These targets are stood up with bases and are knocked over by impact.