PDA

View Full Version : Lead Quality.



What The Chuck
03-19-2013, 12:55 AM
HI everyone, I was wondering how you all type test your lead; I have a very good source from a friend in the haz waste field of some lead that is used to line medical containers in a nuclear pharmacy. Comes in 40lb blocks and seems to be a little softer than WW lead. Is there any practical way to make sure it is suitable for casting?

boltons75
03-19-2013, 02:52 AM
Isotope lead is what it sounds like you have. Many on here use that stuff, you will see it in the swapping and selling section now and then. Someone will chime in with what the alloy is.

383
03-19-2013, 07:13 PM
I just acquired some isotope core lead also, but haven't done anything with it yet. The cores that shield Molybdenum generators weigh about 31.5lbs. While some lead shielding for smaller isotopes is pure lead, most of the stuff is a lead alloy. It's my understanding it's apx. 93% lead, 3% Antimony and 1% tin.

BubbaJon
03-19-2013, 08:49 PM
It's my understanding it's apx. 93% lead, 3% Antimony and 1% tin.
That should make good boolits right out the chute!

runfiverun
03-19-2013, 11:09 PM
the 1/3 alloy is the larger isotope cores.
the smaller are 2.5/2.5
the bricks could be super close to pure or contain a little zinc or a little antimony.

Bullwolf
03-20-2013, 02:07 AM
A Cast Boolits member previously posted a great link about isotope lead.

It contains a fair amount of useful information regarding isotope lead containers. I don't recall who originally posted it, so unfortunately I can not give them the credit they deserve. I did save the link though.

Here's a re-post of it.

http://fellingfamily.net/isolead/



- Bullwolf

NVScouter
03-20-2013, 12:56 PM
I've cast about 10K of that stuff into ingots, advise is that its not all the same. The bricks are about WW +2% tin and the moulded shieldings are almost Linotype. The Liner stuff is pure lead or that about.

I get about thousand pounds a year usualy via my ocupation and I love it. I only add tin on 22s and some specific rounds and water quench.

383
03-20-2013, 01:02 PM
I've cast about 10K of that stuff into ingots, advise is that its not all the same. The bricks are about WW +2% tin and the moulded shieldings are almost Linotype. The Liner stuff is pure lead or that about.

I get about thousand pounds a year usualy via my ocupation and I love it. I only add tin on 22s and some specific rounds and water quench.

From the pics in the link above, can you identify what, if any of them, are close to linotype?

Thanks.

383
03-20-2013, 07:36 PM
the 1/3 alloy is the larger isotope cores.
the smaller are 2.5/2.5
the bricks could be super close to pure or contain a little zinc or a little antimony.

By 1/3, do you mean 1% Sn, 3% Sb?

runfiverun
03-20-2013, 08:38 PM
yes..

imashooter2
03-20-2013, 08:44 PM
Is there any practical way to make sure it is suitable for casting?

Absolutely! Melt some, cast it and shoot it. This method is completely foolproof. :)

What The Chuck
04-12-2013, 03:27 AM
This is just blocks about the size of a brick. But I do thank all of you for the info. I loaded some and shot it and it shot fine, I did notice some lead fouling in the grooves like pencil marks. I think I will mix in some WW's and see if I can get it a little less malleable and see if that goes better.

HangFireW8
04-13-2013, 12:00 AM
First, a comment on your title, "Lead Quality". Be assured that all Lead is of the absolute highest quality from the moment of creation.


HI everyone, I was wondering how you all type test your lead; I have a very good source from a friend in the haz waste field of some lead that is used to line medical containers in a nuclear pharmacy. Comes in 40lb blocks and seems to be a little softer than WW lead. Is there any practical way to make sure it is suitable for casting?

There's several ways to test. First, drop it on concrete and see if it rings or thuds. More pure lead will thud. Higher tin content will really ring.

Hammer it. High antimony lead alloy will crack or split. Pure lead or tin alloy lead will peen and smoosh out.

Melt it, noting the temperature at which it melts, and see if it is Eutectic or has a temperature range of phase change (slush). Then, come back and ask or read up, because I have to look up all this stuff, and can't remember it all.

Hope that helps.

HF