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View Full Version : First time with a 4 cav and a RG4.


Beagle333
03-17-2013, 10:50 AM
This was my first effort with a 4-cav and also the NOE HP system. I was using a NOE 360160WFN RG4 mold and we gave each other a pretty good workout. And I learned a few things. First..... a 4 cav brass mold is heavy.;-)
Next, the silly boolits stick to the pins. A lot.
The pins felt smooth to me, but I did get some relief by taking the pins out, chucking them up on the drill and spinning them in some 800 grit sandpaper for a few seconds and reinstalling them, and didn't even burn myself too bad while doing that. I think it could use some more smoothing, but it was much better at dropping them after that. They didn't really stick to the side of the cavity much at all, just the pins. I'm sure there is a good reason they are aluminum, but it didn't seem easy to keep them hot enough to work for me. Again, probably just a newbie thing that I'll figure out one day.
Fillout was pretty good. I was using 95-2.5-2.5 isotope and I had the temp set to about 8-1/4 on the Lee dial. (whatever temp that is). I got the mold pretty hot on the hotplate before I started. Then..... the wooden part of the handles on the Lee 6-cav handles came loose from the metal. That didn't deter me much, just annoyed me. I cast with gloves on anyway and I just pushed the handles back up on the metal every time I closed the sprue after dumping. I did end up with about 12# of pretty nice ones after all was said and done. I probably cast somewhere around 20# though. It was quite a learning experience. Part of the trick (as I discovered) was to get it casting really well and then cast like my life depended on it. As long as it was going really fast, they came off the pins much better and looked good. I never got it hot enough for any frosting (which was kinda my goal.... I seem to do best right before it gets frosty), so I might have to up the temp and my casting speed next time. It will be better when I get the handles glued together. (another trick I didn't know about)
And... it would probably help more to keep things hot if I hadn't been ladle casting. But I don't have a bottom pour.
Overall..... I thought it was a good first time. It was not bad and I did get a nice pile of boolits. I think with a bit more experience and perhaps some glue on the mold handles, the next time out will be more productive and fun as well. When it does get rolling and dropping, the boolits pile up fast. :-D
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/3-16-13_zpsd15f3702.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/DSC03545_zps0200aa70.jpg
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/cast%20boolits/DSC03543_zps8f6b8428.jpg
runfiverun
03-17-2013, 01:25 PM
I would try cutting the sprue just a tick sooner...
that one second makes a big difference in the long run.
40Super
03-17-2013, 02:22 PM
You found the reason why I am no longer buying any brass mold bigger than 2cav. Too heavy for a bad wrist and then having to usually struggle with dropping boolits off of pins. Aluminum is where I'm going for mass casting, though I do really like brass molds, a shame. If you have any ultra fine metal polish( I use unitized polishing wheels from work), you can get the pins real smooth to get rid of any sanding scratches ect.. to help release. I haven't had too much issues with NOE's pins though, they are nice and polished pretty good from new. I also give the pivot bolt on the handles a sharp knock with a wood stick after opening the sprue but before opening the blocks on the sticky ones. Pin temp vs mold temp seem to make the most difference whether they stick or not.
Beagle333
03-17-2013, 03:27 PM
It's a nice mold and makes great boolits. I'll just have to learn to use it. I got 486 keepers out of the first time with it, so I'm pretty happy about it!:D
I think I'll either make a mold tray or just sit something beside the pot (like a coffee can) to set the mold on, so I don't hold it up the entire time. I really do need to learn when to cut the sprue though. I'm just not used to having such a big sprue puddle and am learning how long to wait to cut. I'm kinda gunshy about galling the top of the mold. And I had a couple of folks tell me that I shoulda dampened a Qtip with sprue plate lube and just touch the pins with it to help drop-off.


I also give the pivot bolt on the handles a sharp knock with a wood stick after opening the sprue but before opening the blocks on the sticky ones.
Oh, believe me, I beat a small piece of soft pine furring into a pile of splinters while "tapping" on that nut.;-)
runfiverun
03-17-2013, 03:48 PM
the brass is harder than aluminum.
the stuff that stops aluminum from galling will easily stop the brass from doing it too.
captaint
03-17-2013, 03:58 PM
If you guys carefully watch your sprue puddle, look at the last cavity you poured. When the lead changes
color and "sucks down" - that's when you want to cut the sprue. Quickly. And with HP molds, get it full of lead ASAP. The pins being not hot enough is what makes the boolits stick. With the HP molds, it's all about the pins. Mike
Don Purcell
03-17-2013, 04:01 PM
I am going to order that mold but was wanting the flat nose. The flat nose is 160 grain, what weight are your hollow points?
Beagle333
03-17-2013, 04:15 PM
143 grains
Don Purcell
03-17-2013, 07:06 PM
Yep, I was guessing around 145 or so. Going to use them in a S&W 38/44 Outdoorsman.
GLL
03-17-2013, 07:36 PM
Don:

Show us your Outdoorsman ! :)

Jerry
Wayne Smith
03-17-2013, 08:58 PM
My trick with the Lee handles when they come loose is to let them come off, turn half a turn, and drive them back on. This will hold at least through the casting session and can be done quickly.
Cane_man
03-17-2013, 09:03 PM
If you guys carefully watch your sprue puddle, look at the last cavity you poured. When the lead changes
color and "sucks down" - that's when you want to cut the sprue. Quickly. And with HP molds, get it full of lead ASAP. The pins being not hot enough is what makes the boolits stick. With the HP molds, it's all about the pins. Mike

+1

what he said
Beagle333
03-17-2013, 09:58 PM
My trick with the Lee handles when they come loose is to let them come off, turn half a turn, and drive them back on. Good idea. Now that I'm not casting tonight, I took em off and squirted the handles full of Elmer's wood glue (it's what I had on hand here) and shoved em down on there tight. I'll see if that works.

And thanks to everybody for the good advice. It's great to have so many folks who can help a fella out who has no mentor nearby.
Blammer
03-17-2013, 11:17 PM
the pins are steel.

Lightly smoke the pins and they will fall off nicely.

I would also recommend turning the mould right side up, THEN closing it so the pins are at the lowest point. If they are at the highest point and you close it you will have a "flat" side of the pin in the HP, and it will STICK and not release.
Don Purcell
03-18-2013, 12:08 AM
GLL, I would post a picture but I am computer illiterate but I'll describe it. Basically it is a standard post-war transition model with @ 95% finish. Typical oily glass smooth action and extremely accurate. Original Magna grips numbered to the gun. My standard load is the Keith hollowpoint with 13 grains 2400. I love your avatar!