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boarder14
03-15-2013, 03:23 PM
so i finally got my handles in and sat down and did a bunch of bullets. ive got a few questions if anyone can help me out.

1.small wrinkles in the bullets how do i fix this?
2.got a lee 10 lbs pot what setting do you normally use?
3.my bullets weigh up to 7 grains different and way to solve that?

thanks any help would be awesome

ultramag
03-15-2013, 03:57 PM
1) Sounds like you're running too cold. Are they shiny too?

2) The settings won't be consistent from pot to pot.

3) I'm guessing when you get problem #1 corrected this too will go away.

boarder14
03-15-2013, 04:01 PM
if i have it turned above 3 then i get the rainbow effect on the top of the pot. i was told thats by running to hot

David2011
03-15-2013, 05:11 PM
Boarder,

The exact setting on your pot will not necessarily match the temperature of someone else's identical pot at the same setting. The temperature of the mold is determined by how fast you cast. Steel and iron molds hold heat better than aluminum molds so you have to go fast with steel or iron molds and very fast with aluminum molds. Have you cleaned the mold well? An old toothbrush and some Dawn will help get the oils off of the mold. When the mold is clean and hot enough you won't have wrinkles. As Ultramag said, the weight will be consistent when you cure the wrinkles.

David

Charlie Two Tracks
03-15-2013, 05:12 PM
It will really help to get a thermometer. Then, you know where you are at and can adjust accordingly. As the pot gets lower, the temperature will rise. What type of boolit are you casting? The mold needs to be hot to stop the wrinkles. A hot plate or an old electric skillet can preheat the mold and that will help. Try just casting for awhile. Don't worry about how they are looking. As you cast more, you will develop a method that works for you. Trying to keep the mold at the correct temperature, the lead at the correct temp. , pouring the lead into the mold the same way and holding the handles of the mold with the same pressure on them, can take a little bit of practice. Have some fun, it is well worth the learning curve. Welcome to the forum.

detox
03-15-2013, 06:04 PM
Sounds like you have a lot to learn. Yea, get a casting thermometer and cast between 700-750 degrees. Setting #7 will get you close if pot is full. As pot level lowers temps go up.

Flux using pine sawdust. Candle wax will get you by, but not nearly as good.

Pre heat end of mould and sprue plate by dipping in melt. when mould temp is correct it should take about 5 seconds for sprue puddle to frost over completely. Mould that is too hot or too cold will give you problems.

41 mag fan
03-15-2013, 06:20 PM
so i finally got my handles in and sat down and did a bunch of bullets. ive got a few questions if anyone can help me out.

1.small wrinkles in the bullets how do i fix this?
2.got a lee 10 lbs pot what setting do you normally use?
3.my bullets weigh up to 7 grains different and way to solve that?

thanks any help would be awesome

#1 Get a thermometer.....very useful. Run your pot temp 675*-725*
#2 Thoroughly wash your mold with hot boiling water and dawn. Scrub it several times using a tooth brush, rinse clean.
#3 Depending on your melt, your weights will vary
#4 Buy a hotplate, preheat your mold while your melt is coming up to temp
#5 Buy a bottle of Bull Plate from Bull Shop on here to use on your mold
#6 cast fast, 3-4 casts per min, the wrinkles are from a cold mold, casting fast will get your mold up to temp. Leave a big sprue puddle on top till it takes about 5- 6 sec to solidify, then you can back off on the amount.
#7 If your boolits start to frost up, slow down, but keep a steady pace.
#8 go thru the archives on here and read....more info in them than you'll fathom in a weeks time.
#9 Good Luck, enjoy and any other questions please ask away

runfiverun
03-15-2013, 06:44 PM
boarder you any where near me?

boarder14
03-17-2013, 09:17 PM
im actually out in the boise area. so not to close

runfiverun
03-17-2013, 10:10 PM
yeah that's a bit far.
I take my thermometer and fiddle the little contact strips in my lee pots until they only go to 725 when about full of alloy.
I then just leave the knob at full right.
it takes a bit to get them set like that but it makes it easy for me to just plug them in and leave them alone.

Solus
03-17-2013, 11:37 PM
No need to buy a seperate heater to heat of the mold. In my lee pot I put the mold at the top of the pot without touching the lead or the wood. I have good success with this. As for the rest these guys pretty much have it covered good luck. Oh I leave the mold on the pot until its warm enough then I start casting. If it needs to heat up more then the casting will just heat the rest of the temperature pretty fast

fcvan
03-18-2013, 12:22 AM
+1 on what Solus said. I preheat my molds on top of my Lee pro IV. Long ago, I cut a tin can lid to set on the top, and then I place two molds on top to pre heat. I think the tin can lid helps the pot and the molds heat up faster.

captaint
03-18-2013, 09:51 AM
I don't know how to say this without sounding contrary - I always recommend new guys buy a
hotplate. When I got mine, it seemed like my "mold too cold" issues went away, immediately.
I never cast without my hotplate. Best 12 dollar investment I ever made. For real. Mike

boarder14
03-18-2013, 04:31 PM
i guess i will have to buy a therometer and try it then. i guess the good thing is they can always be remelted and tried again ha