What is the history of the Lee R*E*A*L bullet

[AmishWarlord]

Anyone know the history of development of the Lee REAL bullet?

[Mk42gunner]

I know they were available in the mid 1970's when I got my first Lee Loader in .410, because I remember reading about them in the literature that came with the loader.

According to Dick Lee, they are better than sliced bread. Myself, I haven't had quite that good of luck with them.

Robert

[jim147]

I haven't had the best of luck with them either. That is a mold on my list to play with again when I have time. I thinking about shooting more BP this year so I'll give it another go.

Off topic for Mk42gunner, have you been to the comedy show at the old Walmart? I'm thinking about stopping by tomorrow just for the laughs.

jim

[bubba.50]

I believe they were intended for use in roundball twist barrels to have a more substantial projectile for huntin'. whether it worked or not, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. they've worked well in my t/c's with the 1 in 48 twist.

[bubba.50]

I believe they were intended for use in roundball twist barrels to have a more substantial projectile for huntin'. whether it worked or not, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. they've worked well in my t/c's with the 1 in 48 twist.


don't know what's up with the double post. danged twitchy computer I guess.

[tomme boy]

They seem to really shine if you put a lubed felt wad between the powder and slug. 3F powder seems to help too. I don't know why, but in 4 different 50 cal. ML's I have, it seems to work. 80 grs. max. Anything faster and the groups start to open.

[Mk42gunner]

I haven't had the best of luck with them either. That is a mold on my list to play with again when I have time. I thinking about shooting more BP this year so I'll give it another go.

Off topic for Mk42gunner, have you been to the comedy show at the old Walmart? I'm thinking about stopping by tomorrow just for the laughs.

jim

Yeah, I went Saturday. I saw three bricks of various primers at $55 and $60.

There was a new looking RCBS Promelt for $325 on the west side of the building. The only mold I saw was in a glass case, looked like an old Winchester mold the tag said .38 S&W, and something like $110 so who knows?

The asking price for .22LR was $60.00 a brick, I didn't see any getting sold.

I walked in went up and down the aisles and walked out.

Robert

[Maven]

Anyone know the history of development of the Lee REAL bullet?

Probably Lee Precision's attempt to garner some of the conical market dominated by T/C's Maxi-Ball.

[izzyjoe]

i've used the 250gr real in my CVA hawken, i was getting some decent groups at 50yds. but i've only used them in one outing.

[OverMax]

As I recall from years ago. The Real was addvertized as the only b/p bullet capable of self cleaning and engraving itself going down the barrel. A new and BIG development according to who else >LEE. At that time Lyman had the mold business period. Lee was just breaking into the market place creating different tool designs with much less machining than the others and using aluminum whenever possible. And of course asking for much lower prices for there products. (Which and still does have the consumers attention.) Especially so for their molds. Lyman ended up getting slowly choked in the market place by Lee. After a few years Lyman began to discontinued or slim down their mold lineup because they couldn't compete. (iron verses aluminum.) Lee actually forced Lyman and RCBS away from iron into making some of their there products with aluminum. (In order for either to be competitive in the marketplace.) 40 years later nothing changed. Lee make there (whatever?) and Lyman and the others are still struggling for a bigger piece of the consumer pie they lost years ago. More than likely because of their all (other than Lee) being too over confidant and far too slack on their drawing boards. Who'd ever think a little up-start company like Lee could take on established business's like Lyman, RCBS, and others. "Lee took them all out to the wood shed and gave them all a good keister woo-pin. To this day I think those cheeks over at Lyman and RCBS are still stinging red as the color paint used on Lee's reloading equipment."
Good or bad? the way those events happen? You be the judge. That's the way I believed it happen.

O/M

[Fly]

Who ever said we in the USA could not build it cheaper & better or as good.Thanks Lee!

Fly

[Good Cheer]

Anyone know the history of development of the Lee REAL bullet?

Nope, don't know the development history except that it really is a great concept that shows good engineering. Self centering, big lube grooves, short and blunt enough for slow twists, smart nose design, doesn't need a fragile skirt. Not bad at all.

[PTS]

I’m curious about the REAL bullet now. Hadn’t heard of them till I joined CB. I shoot a Pedersoli Kentucky .50 flint accurately with Buffalo Bullet ball-ets and conicals. Hollow based bullets shoot very well in my gun. Buffalo Bullet goes out of business about every other year but I have success with Hornadys, too.

My question: What is the hardness of REAL bullets compared to round ball and the concials described above? I’m assuming they are soft enough to bump up into the rifling. This would be key in my gun.

[bubba.50]

ya buy a twenty dollar mould and make'em yerself so hardness will be determined by what you pour in it. the purer & softer the better.

[PTS]

Thanks bubba50; I did not know that these bullets cannot be purchased. I found the molds at TOW. Further research tells me that the softer the better, so will do.

[gunner69]

Shop around and you can find the Lee R.E.A.L. molds fairly cheap. I recently bought the "double" mold in .45, .50 and .54. It throws the "engraved" conical as well as a round ball. Use soft lead. I have a fellow hunter that swears by them and has convinced me to try them. Google FS Reloading, a factory outlet, for a really good deal on Lee products.

[PTS]

I’m going to buy from TOW for $20. Double cavity mold. The “combo” mold is the one that molds a conical and a ball. Found pure lead at Fort Chambers yesterday for $1/lb. Just need a ladle and a fire. Question: What household items might one have that would substitute for a ladle in the meantime?

[bubba.50]

a large gravy spoon would likely get ya by for a while. bend the handle to suit ya then take an old screwdriver or blunt chisel or some such and bend ya a little pourin' spout on the side of it. or spend another 15 or 20 bucks & order a ladle when ya order yer mold. luck to ya & have a good'en, bubba.

[Bored1]

Check the thrift stores around you for a ladle, found a cool cast iron one a few months ago.

As far as the REAL bullets go, don't know the history, did get one in the Swappin sectino awhile ago, just waiting to remember I have it when I have some spare time.

[IROCZ]

I just molded a hundred of these in .54 cal for my T/C. I went with the 300 grain molded in plumbers soft lead. I haven't fired any yet though.

[Newtire]

They seem to really shine if you put a lubed felt wad between the powder and slug. 3F powder seems to help too. I don't know why, but in 4 different 50 cal. ML's I have, it seems to work. 80 grs. max. Anything faster and the groups start to open.
Hey Tomme boy, born and raised in Savanna here. Clinton was the big city to us! The "rich" smell of Clinton Corn... Henry's hamburgers and Paul's discount house were #1 destinations. But, I digress... I will have to try that wad approach. I could get good shooting in my old TC .50 but only with 60 grains. I have a "new" (to me) .58 CVA mountain rifle and a few of these to try. Thanks for the tip!

[PTS]

Order is in to TOW. .50 cal, 320 grain double cavity. Ladle on back order, so I’ll be scrounging for one per all of your advices. TOW sells REAL bullets in small quantities. Seemed expensive. Anxious now.

[Flashman929]

I’m going to buy from TOW for $20. Double cavity mold. The “combo” mold is the one that molds a conical and a ball. Found pure lead at Fort Chambers yesterday for $1/lb. Just need a ladle and a fire. Question: What household items might one have that would substitute for a ladle in the meantime?

Necro post I know, but I was searching and it came up.

A soup ladle. Drill a 1/16" hole in the bottom. Scoop a bit out of your pot, and slide the mold under it. Works a treat, actually I'm torn between it an the Lyman casting ladle I have. It gives a very nice smooth stream for good fill out.

[higgins]

One reason for their development was probably to appeal to people who didn't want to fool with a greased patch since Rifling was Engraved At Loading.

[Good Cheer]

History of the REAL? How'd the idea come about?
Well, when you're driving down the road in dairy country and see those corrugated metal walled silos with the shallow angle conical roofs... yeah it makes me wonder.
:rolleyes:

[Fly]

I have two real molds. But I have not ever really tested them like should be. The post above said he thought they were for round
ball twist. I remember trying one in my pore boy flint lock years back. If I remember it shot very good groups. I need to brake that
ole guy out & do some playing with it. It would be a great idea for all of us to start taking notes. The older I get the more guns I accumulate
& the worst my memory gets. (wink)

I love all of you folks Fly

[rodwha]

I've seen something about the lighter REALs were designed for slower twists. I sent some to a guy with a slow twist and they didn't do well for him.

The heavier REALs seem to do fine for my 1:48" twist .50 cal but I haven't tried them further than 50 yds yet.

[mooman76]

It isn't really that they are lighter but shorter and yes they were designed with slower twist guns in mind. Some do good with them and some do not. Over the years with people trying different things to get them to stabilize better, they have found loads that help improve their performance. Sometimes pushing them a little harder and an over powder wad can help allot. They shot very good in my 50 with 1/48 twist yet my 45 with the slower twist 1/66 it would seem I got 1/3 would be a flyer. This though was many years ago before I knew about the things I could do to improve performance but still it was good enough for minute of deer which was my objective.

[John Taylor]

If I remember right, R E A L stood for "rifling engrave apon (upon) loading". They seem to work good with the 1 in 48 twist that T/C had. Most true round ball barrels had a much slower twist and deeper rifling which may not work to well for the real bullets.

[Chill Wills]

That is interesting. Wasn't the TC maxi-ball designed to be used in the slow round ball twist? I have used it in them with good accuracy but I am not sure it was designed for them.

[John Taylor]

That is interesting. Wasn't the TC maxi-ball designed to be used in the slow round ball twist? I have used it in them with good accuracy but I am not sure it was designed for them.

T/C maxi was designed for the T/C with 1 in 48 twist. This twist was a compromise to shoot bullets or round ball. Round ball shot best with light loads and the maxis need a heavy load to get the velocity up so they would stabilize.

[John Boy]

201274

[Good Cheer]

And if the bore is a little bit too big for the REAL then you're bouncing a lead can down the barrel. Got a .58 like that, just a little bit over sized. I tried supplementing REAL's in that barrel with a patch but gave up on it. That one is just a round ball machine sure enough.