my bullets worked

[gray wolf]

I thought I would start a new thread :Fire:

I will leave the wife out of this one. Well like I said I got 80 pounds of pure Pb.
Now all I had was 30 so pounds of W W And when I shot them air cooled all went well. Zero leading after 150 rounds. My lube worked very well. Nice star at the end of the barrel. They were accurate. These are from my almost new mold that I got from another person on a different forum. R c b s D/C 200 Gr.SW the one with 2 lube rings. It is a little shorter than the # 68 but it functions fine.
So this morning I mixed 50/50 WW with the pure lead, they cast fine and shot very well. :-D Again I got no leading. Next time I will try the pure Pb.
If swaged works the pure should work also :roll:
One thing I noticed was lube spatters on my target 10 yards away.
I don't no what that means. I have been using my home made black powder lube.
Bees Wax, mutton tallow, and a little bore butter it also had a little oil in it made from seeds. The lube is not tacky, it is firm and needs a little heat from a hair dryer to flow. dry when you handle it.
BUT my pistol gets very dirty after about 75 rounds. Gunky, mushy muddy like crud
in the action. This lube is for keeping the black powder soft in the barrel.

It sure works. But it is to smoky and dirty for the 45 A C P.
I think I will let the stuff run out of my sizer and go with the carn. Red.

Thanks again for all the help and assuring me that the 50/50 mix would be O K. :drinks:

[44man]

Well, black powder lube is formulated to soften fouling. You don't need to do that with smokeless. I would try reducing the lube. If you have 2 grooves, just lube one. Better to use a smokeless lube.

[gray wolf]

yup I agree. Will try a smokless lube--will on lube ring be enough??

[ANeat]

Thats good to hear Gray Wolf, I think as long as the bullets come out of the mold the right diameter they will work well.
What size are they coming out of the mold with your 50/50 mix?

Ive had lube on my 25 yard target before even with carnuba red. Especially on hot days. No big deal really. A friend of mine shoots with Felix lube and he gets a good bit of splatter on his targets, and great accuracy as well:-D

[gray wolf]

The bullits are dropping .504 with W W and a hair under with 50/50.

[ANeat]

The bullits are dropping .504 with W W and a hair under with 50/50.


Well thats not the answer I expected from a 45 caliber bullet:confused:

[gray wolf]

OOOOOOOOPSS
SHoot I must have zoned out there. >454 with W W and A hair under with the 50/50 mix.

Did I get it right that time??

[Rick N Bama]

GW, I'm shooting a Lee 452-200RF in my 1911 that only holds some .1gr of FWFL & I get very little to no leading at all. I think boolit fit is the most important factor.

Rick

[44man]

Have to remember though, if it is accurate, it is OK.

[gray wolf]

GW, I'm shooting a Lee 452-200RF in my 1911 that only holds some .1gr of FWFL & I get very little to no leading at all. I think boolit fit is the most important factor.

Rick

I think What you are saying is that your bullet only holds .1 Gr. of lube.
I don't no what FWFL is ?? I think it is the lube. Am I correct ?

I agree that bullet fit is very important. I size to .452 and that seems to work OK.
I could always open my die another .0005 but here is what I don't understand.
I use a Lee factory crimp die and that seems to bring the case back to What the inside of the die is. ( help me here ) If I go larger on the bullet wont it just be reduced back to the same diameter all the time because of the L F C D.
I would think that the inside diameter of the carbide ring would dictate, and just squeeze the lead to the same size all the time. Am I wrong??
I also think that the pressure of the load is important as far as the bullet bump up goes. That is to say: the softer the load the less pressure and the less bump up. If that is true than the softer lead bullets would obturate more with less pressure and seal the bore better than a hard bullet. Less powder, less Vel. but the same barrel fit because of the softer metal.
I wish I was a load and shoot type of guy but I got to know all this chit.

[leftiye]

Gray (like me) wolf- If I am understanding your post, the I.D. of the sizing die is not a determining nor guiding dimension. Chamber and barrel dimensions should guide you as to what size the boolit, and cartridge should end up. Sizing with a factory crimp die is not my first choice also. I'd suggest starting out with sizing the boolit .001" or larger than groove diameter. Seat boolit out to the longest that will chamber easily without help. If it happens that the case comes just to the back of the front edge of a lube groove, then crimp there (light roll crimp) this will be all that is necessary to prevent the boolit from being pushed back into the case by recoil. If it lines up this way that is all that is necessary.

If the case mouth doesn't line up with a lube groove (and one isn't handy), then you can simply swage the case into the boolit enough to hold the boolit at the correct length against recoil using your factory crimp die. I'd mash the boolit as little as possible to hold it sucessfully.

If the cartridge for some reason (tight chamber, large diameter boolit) ends up being too big around to chamber, then I'd size the boolit a little smaller- but not less than one thou. over groove diameter. If the cartridge is still overly thick I'd first try a bit of taper crimping, then if that doesn't work I'd try the factory crimp die. Ideally, no taper crimping nor factory crimp die deformation, and boolit at least .001"over groove diameter, and seated into the rifling or .032" or less shorter.

I like 50/50 WW/pure with 2% tin added for everything. It's about BHN 12 and can be heat treated to BHN 27 if needed. Not only that, it will expand nicely for hunting boolits, and hangs together pretty good too.

FWFL is "Felix's World Famous Lube" Recipes can be found in "Shooters" in the stickies.. It's a first rate lube that you can make yourself.

What you say about bump up is right on, though bump up isn't absolutely necessary. If the boolit is slightly overbore, and the barrel is uniform, then a good seal can be had without obturation. Softer lead (even pure) will work fine at midrange velocities, and lower pressures will help accuracy (less deformation).

[gray wolf]

Wow that's a lot of good info. Gives me a whole new outlook and different things to ponder. You guy's are great.

G.W.